View Full Version : TD5 servicing
rick130
2nd December 2013, 12:57 PM
Other than the basics, oil and air filters and sump plug washers, (and I reckon coolant) what other things should be checked/swapped during a TD5 service ?
We don't know how long since the last service either.
The car seems seriously lacking in the mid range to me, no torque, compared to my heavily tweaked 300Tdi and the TD5 130 is totally empty vs an extra 600kg or so in my Tdi, and yet I can crest hills here at least 20km/h faster with the Tdi running 255/85's vs 235/85's on the TD5. 
The TD5 sounds great, but it's a slug. (and no, a remap isn't on the agenda ;) )
Yorkie
2nd December 2013, 01:12 PM
give the maf a clean with contact cleaner.
Disco Muppet
2nd December 2013, 01:41 PM
Clean MAF, if it doesn't have an EGR bypass either get rid of it or pull it off and clean it, recently cleaned up mine and it's much smoother and pulls a bit better (butt dyno :p )
FWIW mine lacks a bit between 70-100, although not a huge amount, get a remap :p
mools
2nd December 2013, 02:31 PM
Also clean the MAP (Manifold absolute pressure) sensor in the in let manifold - they can get gunked up. User contact cleaner as per MAF.
Ian.
harro
2nd December 2013, 04:03 PM
Sounds like it might be down on boost Rick.
A standard Td5 still goes pretty well if running properly.
Check waste gate actuator for correct operation and if it has original rubber hoses check for internal delamination and change to silicone.
Mine was delaminating after only about 50k
Try and get in on a Nanocom or similar and see some live data or at least check for faults.
Unplug the Maf and let it run on default if it goes significantly better get a new one (OEM) or as said try cleaning it. 
Even though it isn't missing I would still check the ECU for oil as well as the harness plug at the front of the head.
That's where I would start,
Cheers.
Paul.
rick130
2nd December 2013, 04:12 PM
Thanks fella's.
Paul, thought of wastegate actuator too, was going to check operation.
Muppet, not mine so no re-map in its future. It's just a daily driver/farm hack.
nedflanders
2nd December 2013, 05:19 PM
Be very careful when changing the rotor filter, the cap is held in by 2 small bolts and the thread strips easy in the housing, a gentle nip is all they need.
Disco Muppet
2nd December 2013, 05:24 PM
Muppet, not mine so no re-map in its future. It's just a daily driver/farm hack.
So is mine :p
Is it running larger tyres or anything? 
Check the accelerator pedal for anything blocking it, take it for a good caning :cool:
When I first got mine I had to free up the pedal a bit, the trim panel was catching it :D
Sent from my GT-S7500T using AULRO mobile app
130man
2nd December 2013, 07:29 PM
Hi Rick. All the above, of course , but I recommend a coolant change if only to set a good baseline for future servicing. How many kilometres and age? When mine hit 300 000km the water pump failed, due to corrosion, and cooked the head. This was despite having the coolant changed every two years. Also check the plastic tanks on the radiator as they will eventually begin to crack and spill coolant. Mine did at the drivers side lower corner but I caught it in time due to having to change a flat tyre. This was the only time I have ever been pleased to get a flat.  Cheers, Ross.
rick130
3rd December 2013, 06:44 AM
Thanks Ross, good advice.
The poor old OAT coolant in this thing looks sad and it might never have been changed in its 185,000km.......
djam1
3rd December 2013, 08:01 AM
Rick if its all an unknown quantity check for oil at the red plug on the ECU and maybe change the injector harness.
strangy
3rd December 2013, 08:32 AM
I'd be checking the belt and idler pullies. Good check of the Harmonic Balancer and ( with a doubtful service history) would pull the sump for a look see  on that pesky oil pump bolt. It's an extra 1/2 hr to do the service but since the oil is out anyway it could be the best 1/2 hr ever spent.
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