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Thread: TD5 servicing

  1. #1
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    TD5 servicing

    Other than the basics, oil and air filters and sump plug washers, (and I reckon coolant) what other things should be checked/swapped during a TD5 service ?

    We don't know how long since the last service either.

    The car seems seriously lacking in the mid range to me, no torque, compared to my heavily tweaked 300Tdi and the TD5 130 is totally empty vs an extra 600kg or so in my Tdi, and yet I can crest hills here at least 20km/h faster with the Tdi running 255/85's vs 235/85's on the TD5.

    The TD5 sounds great, but it's a slug. (and no, a remap isn't on the agenda )

  2. #2
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    give the maf a clean with contact cleaner.

  3. #3
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    Clean MAF, if it doesn't have an EGR bypass either get rid of it or pull it off and clean it, recently cleaned up mine and it's much smoother and pulls a bit better (butt dyno )
    FWIW mine lacks a bit between 70-100, although not a huge amount, get a remap
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  4. #4
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    Also clean the MAP (Manifold absolute pressure) sensor in the in let manifold - they can get gunked up. User contact cleaner as per MAF.

    Ian.

  5. #5
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    Sounds like it might be down on boost Rick.
    A standard Td5 still goes pretty well if running properly.
    Check waste gate actuator for correct operation and if it has original rubber hoses check for internal delamination and change to silicone.
    Mine was delaminating after only about 50k

    Try and get in on a Nanocom or similar and see some live data or at least check for faults.
    Unplug the Maf and let it run on default if it goes significantly better get a new one (OEM) or as said try cleaning it.

    Even though it isn't missing I would still check the ECU for oil as well as the harness plug at the front of the head.

    That's where I would start,
    Cheers.
    Paul.
    Paul.

    77 series3 (sold)
    95 300Tdi Ute (sold)
    2003 XTREME Td5

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.

  6. #6
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    Thanks fella's.

    Paul, thought of wastegate actuator too, was going to check operation.

    Muppet, not mine so no re-map in its future. It's just a daily driver/farm hack.

  7. #7
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    Be very careful when changing the rotor filter, the cap is held in by 2 small bolts and the thread strips easy in the housing, a gentle nip is all they need.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Muppet, not mine so no re-map in its future. It's just a daily driver/farm hack.
    So is mine

    Is it running larger tyres or anything?
    Check the accelerator pedal for anything blocking it, take it for a good caning
    When I first got mine I had to free up the pedal a bit, the trim panel was catching it
    Sent from my GT-S7500T using AULRO mobile app
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  9. #9
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    Hi Rick. All the above, of course , but I recommend a coolant change if only to set a good baseline for future servicing. How many kilometres and age? When mine hit 300 000km the water pump failed, due to corrosion, and cooked the head. This was despite having the coolant changed every two years. Also check the plastic tanks on the radiator as they will eventually begin to crack and spill coolant. Mine did at the drivers side lower corner but I caught it in time due to having to change a flat tyre. This was the only time I have ever been pleased to get a flat. Cheers, Ross.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Ross, good advice.

    The poor old OAT coolant in this thing looks sad and it might never have been changed in its 185,000km.......

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