Oil seal, between gearbox & transfer case

[normbourne]

Hi guys,

I need to change the oil seal between the gear box and transfer case, to prevent oil flow between same.

Any ideas guys....? It's possible to do without taking the gearbox assy out..?

Thank you,

Norm.

[Benmoore15]

On my 300tdi disco I removed the transfer case while in the car quite easy though I did have a hoist

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AULRO mobile app

[will d8r]

Yes an easy job.There are some nuts inside the transfer box accessed through the cover plate.I have done it must be easy.
Cheers Will

[chazza]

Taking the seat-box out gives full access and you can stand inside the car while you work on it. The only hassle with that, is undoing all of the fasteners, which may have rusted together,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

Yes, transfer case can be removed without removing the gearbox. It can be removed without removing the seatbox, but is easier if you do - provided the fasteners come undone easily!

John

[normbourne]

This is probably a silly question, and is probably a very basic question.

On the oil filler pipe and on the rocker breather there is a tube connection, in the past I have always connected these to a vacuum connection, but it then occurred to me that thi cannot be correct, in that wouldn't the fuel mixture be weakened.....? Any clues Fellahs ...?

Thanks,

Norm

[normbourne]

This is probably a silly question, and is probably a very basic question.

On the oil filler pipe and on the rocker breather there is a tube connection, in the past I have always connected these to a vacuum connection, but it then occurred to me that thi cannot be correct, in that wouldn't the fuel mixture be weakened.....? Any clues Fellahs ...?

Thanks,

Norm

By the way it's a series 3 petrol.

[JDNSW]

The connection on the rocker cover goes to a connector on the air intake elbow above the carburetter, the one on the oil filler goes to Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve on a bracket from the intake manifold next to the carburetter, and thence to a vacuum fitting on the adapter below the carburetter.

John

[normbourne]

Back to my gear box.

My efforts to replace the oil seal in situ were in vain........!


Despite my reluctance about pulling the gear box out, it turned out to be the best move I ever made...!

When I came to pull out the clutch linkage from the bell housing, it was to discover that one of the pins through the connecting tube, had broken into three parts. I would have been really p......d off, had I put the box back in to then discover that it would have to come out again..!

Anyway it turned out all oil seals need replacement and the seal on the main shaft, was approaching 5 on the moh scale it was that hard, not surprising really considering that I've never changed it and I've had the vehicle 40 years. But no wonder the oil was flooding past.

[Dinty]

Another cause for losing oil from g/box to T/case especially in S3 G/box is the main bearing housing can and does turn in the G/box casing, this effectively pumps oil.
You can stop it by using Loctite or drilling and tapping a hole, screw in a grub screw to hold it n stop it from turning, cheers Dennis:angel:

[normbourne]

I've heard that in Europe, that there is an argument that goes that the oil is actually coming from the chamber at the rear of the gearbox selector shafts and from there down the machined groove on the transfer box face into the gearbox. Thus bypassing the output drive seal completely.*

I've heard of a bloke, who installed a brand new virgin box and sure enough, oil migration took place, which seems to point to an inherent fault in the design.

The fact remains, there is a clear unimpeded access between the gearbox and the transfer case, via the chamber at the rear of the selector shafts.

After further deliberation I believe that what is happening with reference to oil migration is that the gear selector rods, act as pumps, transferring oil every time a gear is selected, to the chamber at the rear end of the selector rods, which of course is then drained into the transfer case...!

I think I am on the right track in drilling a drain into the gear box and blocking off the channel drain into the transfer case.

Further I cannot see any ramifications in doing so, it isnt as though the flow from this drain is meant to lubricate anything within the transfer case. (or is it....??)

I've been racking my brains, trying to work out why rover would provide this channel, could it be that it was meant to be simply a means to relieve any pressure which may build up, due to the action of the selector rods....???

Anyway, for me my mind is made up, I intend to go ahead with the mod. I will advise in due course, unless lads, any of you, can see any reason why I shouldn't proceed.

Norm.

[normbourne]

Back to my gear box.

My efforts to replace the oil seal in situ were in vain........!


Despite my reluctance about pulling the gear box out, it turned out to be the best move I ever made...!

When I came to pull out the clutch linkage from the bell housing, it was to discover that one of the pins through the connecting tube, had broken into three parts. I would have been really p......d off, had I put the box back in to then discover that it would have to come out again..!

Anyway it turned out all oil seals need replacement and the seal on the main shaft, was approaching 5 on the moh scale it was that hard, not surprising really considering that I've never changed it and I've had the vehicle 40 years. But no wonder the oil was flooding past.

And so the plot thickens..! Removing the oil seal on the output shaft, revealed
that the bearing behind, had seized and was spinning within the insert...!

It's to be hoped that loctite will rescue the situation.

The clutch operating shaft is bu ..........red not to mention the bronze spherical bearing. I reckon I might be able to remanufacture the shaft and I was wondering if a high tensile bolt would suffice as a locating dowel through the connection sleeve...?

Any ideas guys..?

Thanks,

norm.

[JDNSW]

.....
The clutch operating shaft is bu ..........red not to mention the bronze spherical bearing. I reckon I might be able to remanufacture the shaft and I was wondering if a high tensile bolt would suffice as a locating dowel through the connection sleeve...?

Any ideas guys..?

Thanks,

norm.

A high tensile bolt would work, but the proper pins are available and are probably harder than the HT bolt. A mild steel bolt will not work (for long).

John

[normbourne]

A high tensile bolt would work, but the proper pins are available and are probably harder than the HT bolt. A mild steel bolt will not work (for long).

John

Buying the bits and pieces to repair the clutch linkage is proving to be a costly venture, the hardened pins are $23-00 each and the minimum quantity is 10 Off.{}#%\|]{} ...??

I,m also having trouble coming to terms with the cost of the remaining items.

So I've decided to remanufacture the operating arm, using a HT 5/8" bolt as the shaft, and buying the bearing from an alternate supplier.

Does anyone know where I can get the pins, on a two off basis, nd also the spherical bronze bearing...?

Thanks,

Norm.

[chazza]

Does anyone know where I can get the pins, on a two off basis, nd also the spherical bronze bearing...?

Thanks,

Norm.
It is a long time since I bought mine but try L. R. Series Ltd - specialists in land rover, land rover series and range rover - gearbox, axle, transmission parts, spares and major units (http://www.lrseries.com/)

Alternatively any fitter can turn down a piece of high carbon steel such as EN24, or EN26 for you and harden and temper it - I suggest temper it to a blue colour.

I can't remember the diameter of the pin but if it is 1/4", you could buy a parallel punch and use that; it would need to be softened first so that the holes could be drilled and then hardened and tempered.

If you know someone with a lathe and an oxy-set so much the better,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

Can I suggest that if that is the best price you can find, use a suitable allen head HT bolt. Get one with an unthreaded part long enough. Cut off with a grinder to the appropriate length, this should soften the end enough to drill it. If you want to be fancy, you could gring off the hex socket, just watch you don't heat the shank too much.

John