LT95 handbrake oil leak

[rar110]

I fitted a 2nd hand box a while ago and noticed what looks like an oil leak from inside the handbrake drum.

Is this an easy fix for an occasionally successful home mechanic?

[Blknight.aus]

yes

[inside]

Likely the rear output seal. Quite easy to change and only involves a few bolts to get to it. I suggest you get rid of the felt seal while there too.

[DeeJay]

You can heat up the brake linings & wipe off the oil & finish with brake cleaner. Every Land Rover I've had has done a rear output seal...& don't re use the nyloc drive shaft nuts, buy new ones..

[rar110]

Well doing this job has become a priority as the handbrake doesn't hold anymore. I couldn't compress the prop shaft enough to get it off at gearbox end only so I had to remove the entire thing. The brake drum is held in by two Allen key head bolts and came off easily (handbrake off). You can see from this photo the felt washer looks pretty clean. 74383 However, around the hand brake mechanism and the other end where the shoes are held was very oily. 74384 74385 74387 The oil catcher seems to be doing its job and diverting oil going by the steady streak. However oil leaking out must blow back. 74388 So replacing the seal will be tomorrow's job.

[steveG]

I'd also suspect the oil catcher isn't sealed around the bottom, and allowing oil into the drum from the inside as well as what runs out the hole.

Steve

[rar110]

I also noticed the handbrake mechanism feels loose after removing the brake shoes. Is that normal? It's not bolted on. Finally when I removed the shoes two bits fell out of the bottom of the mechanism. Is that a problem?

[steveG]

I also noticed the handbrake mechanism feels loose after removing the brake shoes. Is that normal? It's not bolted on. Finally when I removed the shoes two bits fell out of the bottom of the mechanism. Is that a problem?

The spring/s on the shoes hold everything tight. Bits that fell out shouldn't be an issue as long as you put them back in ;)

Steve

[rar110]

I'd also suspect the oil catcher isn't sealed around the bottom, and allowing oil into the drum from the inside as well as what runs out the hole. Steve

Thanks Steve.

Should I take off the oil catcher and apply some flange sealant/gasket goo?

[JDNSW]

I also noticed the handbrake mechanism feels loose after removing the brake shoes. Is that normal? It's not bolted on.

It is supposed to move so as to equalise the effort between the two shoes. But there should be a flat spring so it can be moved but stays where it is unless a bit of force is applied.

Finally when I removed the shoes two bits fell out of the bottom of the mechanism. Is that a problem?

Two bits of this spring, that now needs to be replaced perhaps? You at least need to identify the bits so you can be sure whether they are needed or not.

John

[Jode]

You can probably find an LR parts manual for your model somewhere on the net; these can be a big help when trying to sort out where the various bits and pieces go. O course, an LR workshop manual will also show most assemblies, however not all - try to pull a diff apart for the 300 TDI and you'll find little to assist in the wsm; thankfully the wsm for the earlier model years does show a diff rebuild).

[steveG]

Thanks Steve.

Should I take off the oil catcher and apply some flange sealant/gasket goo?

I would, otherwise there is nothing stopping any oil that does leak from getting into the drum.
Pretty sure in the overhaul manual it states to put the oil catcher on with sealant.

Steve

[85 county]

assuming you have the old hand brake setup it may be a good time to ditch all the brackets and rods and just get a defender cable one. All you need is everything, backing plate to the end of the cable.

The oil catcher is the last of your problems. i assume you have swapped out the seal. You can get a double lipped one if you shop around. But the real problem is the spine leaking.

I ditched the felt thing and replaced it with some nylon conveyor belt cut to shape and a good coating of RTV.

That is after checking that there is no play in the output shaft.

The out put flanges for a RR are same front and back. different on the counties.

Drive shaft to long to get off, just jack up the back of the car. High lift on the rear cross member

[85 county]

Oh oil in the drum, just run for 1/2 klm with the hand brake on, smells a bit but just burn it out

[rar110]

I would, otherwise there is nothing stopping any oil that does leak from getting into the drum. Pretty sure in the overhaul manual it states to put the oil catcher on with sealant. Steve

Thanks Steve, I used locktite flange sealant under the oil catcher.

[rar110]

I finished this job over the weekend. It took me about 8 hrs over about 4 days. But I took it fairly carefully, taking a lot of time to clean up oil contamination and to ensure the shaft and hub spline were clean.

The photo below is the gearbox filter. The fragment it caught is pretty normal I understand.

74675


The next thee photos are after cleaning up the hub & shaft and applying some forma gasket.

74676


74677


74678


My propane touch hasn't worked in a while. So I used a butane stove to burn the oil off the shoes. I was surprised how much of the black stuff oozed out

74679


Finally a pic of it all back together. I used the standard seal part as I have a heap of them. I also used a felt washer as I had some of them too. I applied some forma gasket to the underside of the felt. Will see how it goes.

74680

I adjusted the handbrake according to the manual and took it for a drive. It was a bit too tight and the drum was above boiling point. I backed it off and adjusted it at the cable end.

[steveG]

I soaked my shoes in petrol overnight then used the blowtorch to burn the crap out.

Steve