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Thread: LT95 handbrake oil leak

  1. #1
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    LT95 handbrake oil leak

    I fitted a 2nd hand box a while ago and noticed what looks like an oil leak from inside the handbrake drum.

    Is this an easy fix for an occasionally successful home mechanic?
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
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    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
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  2. #2
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    yes
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  3. #3
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    Likely the rear output seal. Quite easy to change and only involves a few bolts to get to it. I suggest you get rid of the felt seal while there too.

  4. #4
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    You can heat up the brake linings & wipe off the oil & finish with brake cleaner. Every Land Rover I've had has done a rear output seal...& don't re use the nyloc drive shaft nuts, buy new ones..

  5. #5
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    Well doing this job has become a priority as the handbrake doesn't hold anymore. I couldn't compress the prop shaft enough to get it off at gearbox end only so I had to remove the entire thing. The brake drum is held in by two Allen key head bolts and came off easily (handbrake off). You can see from this photo the felt washer looks pretty clean. image-1411503717.jpg However, around the hand brake mechanism and the other end where the shoes are held was very oily. image-3234982471.jpg image-430923265.jpg image-2879051690.jpg The oil catcher seems to be doing its job and diverting oil going by the steady streak. However oil leaking out must blow back. image-2599674830.jpg So replacing the seal will be tomorrow's job.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  6. #6
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    I'd also suspect the oil catcher isn't sealed around the bottom, and allowing oil into the drum from the inside as well as what runs out the hole.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  7. #7
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    I also noticed the handbrake mechanism feels loose after removing the brake shoes. Is that normal? It's not bolted on. Finally when I removed the shoes two bits fell out of the bottom of the mechanism. Is that a problem?
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    I also noticed the handbrake mechanism feels loose after removing the brake shoes. Is that normal? It's not bolted on. Finally when I removed the shoes two bits fell out of the bottom of the mechanism. Is that a problem?
    The spring/s on the shoes hold everything tight. Bits that fell out shouldn't be an issue as long as you put them back in

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    I'd also suspect the oil catcher isn't sealed around the bottom, and allowing oil into the drum from the inside as well as what runs out the hole. Steve
    Thanks Steve.

    Should I take off the oil catcher and apply some flange sealant/gasket goo?
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  10. #10
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    I also noticed the handbrake mechanism feels loose after removing the brake shoes. Is that normal? It's not bolted on.

    It is supposed to move so as to equalise the effort between the two shoes. But there should be a flat spring so it can be moved but stays where it is unless a bit of force is applied.

    Finally when I removed the shoes two bits fell out of the bottom of the mechanism. Is that a problem?
    Two bits of this spring, that now needs to be replaced perhaps? You at least need to identify the bits so you can be sure whether they are needed or not.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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