View Full Version : Fitting stub axle collar
debruiser
9th February 2014, 10:39 AM
Working on my S3 88" "Red"
Ordered some new stub axle collars from Paddocks - 599698. They sent MR-780. Has anyone tried to put these on?
I've frozen my stub axles for about an hour - they are REALLY cold... I also put the collars in a little tin of oil and heated them up pretty hot... can't get them to go on! Please help!!!!
I did the front axle of my 109, it was still on the car so was a bit hard but nowhere near this hard.
Bearman
9th February 2014, 12:03 PM
G'day Nick, Have you compared the new collar with the old one to make sure it is the same item?. Otherwise press it one with a hydraulic workshop press. That should do the trick.
debruiser
9th February 2014, 12:35 PM
I've eye-balled them, they look the same.
I don't have a hydraulic press.... researching one atm. What do you think of the 12t kin chrome unit?
Bearman
9th February 2014, 12:43 PM
Check the internal diameter with a vernier if you have one. The 12T kingchrome one should be fine for what you need. Otherwise bring them out here and we can press them in with my press.
debruiser
9th February 2014, 01:01 PM
Just measured them. Exactly the same.
dandlandyman
19th February 2014, 02:31 PM
When mine were done years ago he heated them to the colour of straw with his oxy and dropped them straight on. I had to have a pair done several years later and the new bloke pressed them on cold and destroyed one of the stub-axles!:mad:
Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting quietly), plus 16 other parts/project cars (1xS2, 7xS2As, 8xS3s), soon increasing!!!:(:D
Lotz-A-Landies
19th February 2014, 03:04 PM
Personally I prefer the SIII type stubs because they are stronger, although you have to replace the whole stub instead of just the ring.
debruiser
19th February 2014, 05:23 PM
I thought that mine were the series 3..... I've found them on both my 109 1980 and 88 1975
Lotz-A-Landies
19th February 2014, 05:29 PM
If they are SIII they don't have collars, or didn't last time I looked. Also the 1980 should have parrallel bearings the same as the Renge Rover and One Ten
Correction the rears in SIII do have the collars the fronts don't. New knowledge is always good.
JDNSW
20th February 2014, 05:38 AM
Personally I prefer the SIII type stubs because they are stronger, although you have to replace the whole stub instead of just the ring.
They are stronger - but how often have you encountered a stub axle that has failed at this point?
John
debruiser
20th February 2014, 06:22 AM
Agreed John, and doesn't it seem a waste to throw away a whole stub axle compared to just changing the seal collar.
Lotza Landies, I really don't know what is standard and what is not, I can only tell you what I have on my vehicles. My 1980 6cyl 109 has collars on the front, sals rear axle, also has collars i'm pretty sure. The 1975 88" has collars on the rear, I haven't pulled the front axle apart yet to find out, but I'm assuming it has them.
JDNSW
20th February 2014, 06:59 AM
According to my S3 parts book the change was September 1980.
John
123rover50
20th February 2014, 07:10 AM
Agreed John, and doesn't it seem a waste to throw away a whole stub axle compared to just changing the seal collar.
Lotza Landies, I really don't know what is standard and what is not, I can only tell you what I have on my vehicles. My 1980 6cyl 109 has collars on the front, sals rear axle, also has collars i'm pretty sure. The 1975 88" has collars on the rear, I haven't pulled the front axle apart yet to find out, but I'm assuming it has them.
I would not throw the stub away anyway. I would try a" speedisleeve" first.
debruiser
20th February 2014, 07:34 AM
Forgive my unknowledgeness but to use a speedy sleeve wouldn't you need to turn the oil seal section down first?
Phil B
20th February 2014, 08:23 AM
I have done both on my S3 swb rear axle.
I drilled and split the old ones to get them off, cleaned the stub axles, heated the collars (one at a time) with propane and they pushed on easily by hand (with welding gloves on). Let them cool, reassemble, job done.
i have done 2500km on them since and no more leaks.
Regards,
Phil
Killer
20th February 2014, 11:17 AM
Forgive my unknowledgeness but to use a speedy sleeve wouldn't you need to turn the oil seal section down first?
Speedi sleeves are thin enough and oil seals are forgiving enough, that machining is not needed. That is why they are called speedi sleeves.
Cheers, Mick.
Lotz-A-Landies
20th February 2014, 02:22 PM
I would not throw the stub away anyway. I would try a" speedisleeve" first.Speedi sleeves are not always available in the size you require, still cost money and with Bearmach replacement stub axles worth about $50 it may be a case of being penny wise.
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