fire wall sound proofing

[ted44]

Hi, just wondering what people had done with the rubber matting that hangs between the brake accelerator & clutch pedals, can you get new stuff to replace the old stuff or is there a better fix?
Cheers ted

[87County]

the boat places have a foil backed foam,

I have used 2 layers; marine carpet laid on the harder 10mm foam that you buy in fit-together squares at outdoor doors (obviously cut & trimmed to fit)

cheap, easily pulled out to dry and wash the floor out, etc

[Gillie]

I used a product called e-therm which is the foil blanket type material used under iron roofing. I snavelled it from a building site and bought a roll of 50mmx 50m alfoil tape from bunnings for $15 and have so far done the whole front interior of the 130. I had carpet in there which I used as a template and have found it works really well. I cut a slit for the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I used to find with the window down I would get a current of hot air from under the pedals drawn through the fire wall making it very uncomfortable.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1182.jpg (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/zx12rzx12r/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0207_zps0una6f83.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1183.jpg (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/zx12rzx12r/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0206_zps66mcp2mm.jpg.html)

I then put the crumbly mat back over everything and the carpet. It took about 12 hours to complete but I also did a few other jobs including adjusting the bias plate on the gearbox and the switches for the door that turn on the interior light.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1184.jpg (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/zx12rzx12r/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0203_zpsz9o39xgy.jpg.html)

Adjusting the two 10mm bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock to get the H Pattern back in the gearstick instead of having to stir it around to find a gear. worked a treat.

[Rickoz]

I used a product called e-therm which is the foil blanket type material used under iron roofing. I snavelled it from a building site and bought a roll of 50mmx 50m alfoil tape from bunnings for $15 and have so far done the whole front interior of the 130. I had carpet in there which I used as a template and have found it works really well. I cut a slit for the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I used to find with the window down I would get a current of hot air from under the pedals drawn through the fire wall making it very uncomfortable. I then put the crumbly mat back over everything and the carpet. It took about 12 hours to complete but I also did a few other jobs including adjusting the bias plate on the gearbox and the switches for the door that turn on the interior light. Adjusting the two 10mm bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock to get the H Pattern back in the gearstick instead of having to stir it around to find a gear. worked a treat.
How does it handle being wet?

[Gillie]

Being wet won't worry this product. You could and I may apply it to underside and firewall in engine bay yet. It will not absorb water.

[VladTepes]

That was going to be my question I am paranoid about material that absorbs water as it WILL lead to rust. Did you just glue it to the metal ?

If one doesn't access to (what I'm sure was surplus) from a building site, where can the material be purchased and for how much ?


I'm also interested to know exactly how the screws need to be adjusted to bring the H pattern back. Are you able to supply any more detail?

[BilboBoggles]

I guess the only problem with a product that does not absorb water is it will still trap water between it and the bulkhead. The factory mats on my Defender were almost always "wet", up until I put some rubber strip matting - the type they use around pools with bars in a cross pattern, under it. This allows the floor to dry out and stops the rust but you can't call it sound proofing at all.

[DoubleChevron]

Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more (http://www.lobucrod.com/)

I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

seeya,
shane L.

[Gillie]

Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more (http://www.lobucrod.com/)

I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

seeya,
shane L.

Looks very similar to the stuff I used.

[Gillie]

That was going to be my question I am paranoid about material that absorbs water as it WILL lead to rust. Did you just glue it to the metal ?

If one doesn't access to (what I'm sure was surplus) from a building site, where can the material be purchased and for how much ?


I'm also interested to know exactly how the screws need to be adjusted to bring the H pattern back. Are you able to supply any more detail?

I just used Alfoil Tape. Whilst it won't soak up water it certainly has potential to trap it. I suspect bunnings has it or any place that sells colourbond. The product above looks very similar and seems very cheap. I looked at Dynomat Website but to insulate the vehicle and apply sound deadner was going to be over $2000 if I went by what they recommend.

Bias Plate adjustment
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1007.jpg (http://s476.photobucket.com/user/zx12rzx12r/media/CCF07032014_00001_zps864e371e.jpg.html)

[SimonM]

I have started using a product called Proshield which is an aluminium foil backed closed cell foam.

I got it from here Foamland Marine, Boating, Camping, Sporting foam suppliers - Online Store (http://www.foamland.com.au/online-store.html#!/~/category/id=5088069&inview=product15846075&offset=0&sort=normal)

[CountryHonk]

Hey Shane - I may have addressed this with you some time ago ... I read the EZ Cool story by that "nutter" a while ago and was impressed.

Since then EZ Cool has been on the top of my list though I have been balking at the freight quoted to Perth for sufficient to do my RRC 4 door.

Do you know if you can get the stuff or similar anywhere in Oz? I'd hate to order it up and receive only to find its no different to the leftover roll of shed insulation I've had for 5 years ...




Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more (http://www.lobucrod.com/)

I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

seeya,
shane L.

[DiscoMick]

Sound Deadener - Car Builders - Sound Deadener Heat Insulation Car heat Shields (http://www.carbuilders.com.au/)

I used the waterproof version from Car Builders intended for 4WDs. Just measure, cut, peel and stick. Then I put the original mats back

[Clip]

That was going to be my question I am paranoid about material that absorbs water as it WILL lead to rust.
I'm looking for something to sound deaden the firewall too. Mine has leaked in the past (haven't had enough rain over the past 4 months to see if it still does!). But I was thinking that the butyl based ones (like Dynomat etc) that have no foam type material and adhere directly to the metal surface and if installed properly, shouldn't allow any water to get trapped. Running the sheeting from the floor up onto the firewall in one continuous piece could actually help keep moisture away from those vulnerable areas?

[timax]

I'm looking for something to sound deaden the firewall too. Mine has leaked in the past (haven't had enough rain over the past 4 months to see if it still does!). But I was thinking that the butyl based ones (like Dynomat etc) that have no foam type material and adhere directly to the metal surface and if installed properly, shouldn't allow any water to get trapped. Running the sheeting from the floor up onto the firewall in one continuous piece could actually help keep moisture away from those vulnerable areas?
I totally agree with you and Mick in using something that is actually designed for the job. Why would anyone bother with the time and trouble to install a product that wasnt?? Do it once and do it right! It will be cheaper in the long run. You can also get heavy sound deadening matting made just for Defenders like this one R380 Mat (http://www.wrightoffroad.com/r380_mat.htm)

[Robmacca]

I totally agree with you and Mick in using something that is actually designed for the job. Why would anyone bother with the time and trouble to install a product that wasnt?? Do it once and do it right! It will be cheaper in the long run. You can also get heavy sound deadening matting made just for Defenders like this one R380 Mat (http://www.wrightoffroad.com/r380_mat.htm)

Just had a look at their website and there doesn't appear to be anyway to contact them and no prices mentioned. I'm also looking for options for the firewall plus to cover the tunnel as well. Removed the old A/C as it wasn't working and now have heaps more leg room but have the firewall more exposed leading to louder noise inside....

[travelrover]

This thread is quite old now (9 years) but I was wondering if anyone here has tried the 'wrightoffroad' mat solution? A quick google suggests it is also sold by Exmoor trim but getting a price is still a challenge. Would also be interested in how you get around the Oz spec a/c intruding into the passenger footwell.

Cheers Simon

[DiscoMick]

This thread is quite old now (9 years) but I was wondering if anyone here has tried the 'wrightoffroad' mat solution? A quick google suggests it is also sold by Exmoor trim but getting a price is still a challenge. Would also be interested in how you get around the Oz spec a/c intruding into the passenger footwell.

Cheers Simon

I didn't find any problem with the air-con vent. I have also fitted a snow cowl over the mudguard vent to stop rain water coming in through the heater.
The closed cell stuff from Car Builders I used is waterproof anyway.
I have some left over so I'm planning to fit even more of it, when I get a chance. It's a dead easy job - measure, cut, peel and stick.

[travelrover]

I didn't find any problem with the air-con vent. I have also fitted a snow cowl over the mudguard vent to stop rain water coming in through the heater.
The closed cell stuff from Car Builders I used is waterproof anyway.
I have some left over so I'm planning to fit even more of it, when I get a chance. It's a dead easy job - measure, cut, peel and stick.

Thanks Discmick. Sounds good and the Car Builders stuff is locally sourced and pretty cheap from what I recall. Did you seal the panels with Waxoil or similar to prevent rust if any moisture got in?

[DiscoMick]

Thanks Discmick. Sounds good and the Car Builders stuff is locally sourced and pretty cheap from what I recall. Did you seal the panels with Waxoil or similar to prevent rust if any moisture got in?
I cleaned the floor. A couple of bolts were rusty so I soaked them in rust converter overnight. Then I oiled them. That's all I did.

[travelrover]

I cleaned the floor. A couple of bolts were rusty so I soaked them in rust converter overnight. Then I oiled them. That's all I did.

Excellent thanks for that :-)

[Clip]

I didn't find any problem with the air-con vent. I have also fitted a snow cowl over the mudguard vent to stop rain water coming in through the heater.
Can I ask did you unbolt the air con unit? I took the lower cover off that exposed the unit and the fans, but still can't get anywhere near the firewall. I don't really want to have to de-gas and pull the unit out as I know it would never work again!

[DiscoMick]

No I didn't.