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Thread: fire wall sound proofing

  1. #1
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    fire wall sound proofing

    Hi, just wondering what people had done with the rubber matting that hangs between the brake accelerator & clutch pedals, can you get new stuff to replace the old stuff or is there a better fix?
    Cheers ted

  2. #2
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    the boat places have a foil backed foam,

    I have used 2 layers; marine carpet laid on the harder 10mm foam that you buy in fit-together squares at outdoor doors (obviously cut & trimmed to fit)

    cheap, easily pulled out to dry and wash the floor out, etc

  3. #3
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    I used a product called e-therm which is the foil blanket type material used under iron roofing. I snavelled it from a building site and bought a roll of 50mmx 50m alfoil tape from bunnings for $15 and have so far done the whole front interior of the 130. I had carpet in there which I used as a template and have found it works really well. I cut a slit for the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I used to find with the window down I would get a current of hot air from under the pedals drawn through the fire wall making it very uncomfortable.




    I then put the crumbly mat back over everything and the carpet. It took about 12 hours to complete but I also did a few other jobs including adjusting the bias plate on the gearbox and the switches for the door that turn on the interior light.



    Adjusting the two 10mm bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock to get the H Pattern back in the gearstick instead of having to stir it around to find a gear. worked a treat.
    Last edited by Gillie; 28th February 2014 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Reference to time for location of bolts to adj.

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    Question How does it handle being wet

    Quote Originally Posted by Gillie View Post
    I used a product called e-therm which is the foil blanket type material used under iron roofing. I snavelled it from a building site and bought a roll of 50mmx 50m alfoil tape from bunnings for $15 and have so far done the whole front interior of the 130. I had carpet in there which I used as a template and have found it works really well. I cut a slit for the clutch pedal and brake pedal. I used to find with the window down I would get a current of hot air from under the pedals drawn through the fire wall making it very uncomfortable. I then put the crumbly mat back over everything and the carpet. It took about 12 hours to complete but I also did a few other jobs including adjusting the bias plate on the gearbox and the switches for the door that turn on the interior light. Adjusting the two 10mm bolts at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock to get the H Pattern back in the gearstick instead of having to stir it around to find a gear. worked a treat.
    How does it handle being wet?

  5. #5
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    Being wet won't worry this product. You could and I may apply it to underside and firewall in engine bay yet. It will not absorb water.

  6. #6
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    That was going to be my question I am paranoid about material that absorbs water as it WILL lead to rust. Did you just glue it to the metal ?

    If one doesn't access to (what I'm sure was surplus) from a building site, where can the material be purchased and for how much ?


    I'm also interested to know exactly how the screws need to be adjusted to bring the H pattern back. Are you able to supply any more detail?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  7. #7
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    I guess the only problem with a product that does not absorb water is it will still trap water between it and the bulkhead. The factory mats on my Defender were almost always "wet", up until I put some rubber strip matting - the type they use around pools with bars in a cross pattern, under it. This allows the floor to dry out and stops the rust but you can't call it sound proofing at all.

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    Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

    EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more

    I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

    seeya,
    shane L.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Is heat transfer a problem ?? If so try this stuff.

    EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more

    I know some nutter that tried it out and found it ok. It weighs nothing at all.

    seeya,
    shane L.
    Looks very similar to the stuff I used.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    That was going to be my question I am paranoid about material that absorbs water as it WILL lead to rust. Did you just glue it to the metal ?

    If one doesn't access to (what I'm sure was surplus) from a building site, where can the material be purchased and for how much ?


    I'm also interested to know exactly how the screws need to be adjusted to bring the H pattern back. Are you able to supply any more detail?
    I just used Alfoil Tape. Whilst it won't soak up water it certainly has potential to trap it. I suspect bunnings has it or any place that sells colourbond. The product above looks very similar and seems very cheap. I looked at Dynomat Website but to insulate the vehicle and apply sound deadner was going to be over $2000 if I went by what they recommend.

    Bias Plate adjustment

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