Opinion needed

[Dinty]

I have this engine which I have had for a while, I decided yesterday to check the compression, No 1 105psi, No2 50psi, No3 30psi, No4 95psi.
I took the head off suspecting a blown head gasket and I was right
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2510_zpscb6ea2fb.jpg
no wonder the compression was down
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2508_zps17703f07.jpg
now all the bores have a ridge I guess at around 5<>10thou,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2509_zpsb18f944a.jpg
the pistons have no movement at TDC, so do I just remove the ridge and re-ring the pistons or do I get a quote and have it bored .040 O/size and source pistons from the UK??.
Now this engine is only going to be used periodically (historic rego) and wont be doing highway speeds for long distances, what should I do, cheers Dennis
ps I know the head gasket has been fitted wrong way about as well,,. the pistons are std size as there are no other marks other than the numeral 1 B X, no other marks are on the crown of the pistons.

[buckscreek]

Give it a light hone, new rings and drive it!

[ian4002000]

Its all up to your wallet and how honest you are being about how far you want to go....
If you are likely to do less that 10000 miles in the next 5 years I would re ring it,
It will be the condition of the crank and bearings that will cause you the most problems.

[Dinty]

Well this afternoon I loaded the engine into one of my No5 trailers




http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2511_zps158e51b4.jpg headed off to a mates place (mechanic old school L/R), with the help of some pneumatic tools, it was down to it's bare bones in no time










http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2512_zpsaba9bf65.jpg and all is good, I do not need to have the engine re-bored as I first thought, the pistons are fine, all the bottom end bearings are perfect. So on the phone and place an order for what I need from the UK (Blanchards), hopefully all parts will be here end of next week.
We had to take the leader of the pack with us


http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2513_zpsae091a9d.jpg as she is terrified of storms, and the BOM predicted something this afternoon, anyway that's been part of my day, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

Continuing with this engine, whilst waiting for the parts to arrive from the UK, I have grit blasted and repainted a few of the engine ancillary parts just to brighten them up a little
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2517_zps24fda26e.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2516_zps92c84358.jpg
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2515_zpsa0058ea7.jpg
I found my new copper head gasket and a few others that I will need, maybe sometime through the week, I will get time to dis-assemble the head, anyway cheers Dennis
ps when this goes together, I will have a 83 Mod Land Rover 5 main bearing diesel engine spare

[muddy]

Like your smalls on the line!!!:o LOL

[Dinty]

No Muddy, most of what you can see belongs to the Poodle Patrol, they had been washed and so had the face washers, towels & bed covers from their respective beds, cheers mate Dennis

[buckscreek]

5 past 1??

[Dinty]

While waiting for my engine well the big bulky thing LOL, I have been grit blasting some smaller parts, etch prime inside n out and paint
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2525_zps43065cba.jpg
it's colour is 'Ford Grey' by VHT, it suits me and it is high temp paint, now just to get the rest of it back LOL, cheers Dennis

[UncleHo]

I just recently got rid of my 2.3 Ltr 5 bearing stuff as I had stripped a motor with a punctured block,No 3 left via the side :( I had a friend with a good block but no crank or pistons, so I gave them to him.

P.S. want a 24V Lightweight ?

[Dinty]

What a difference 24hrs can make weather wise, yesterday miserable as, this morning nice sunny day, although a little cool with the breeze. This job has been on the agenda for sometime, replace the 5 main bearing diesel with a rebuilt 4 cyl petrol engine.
I was up early and had put 'Op Rubic's Cube' into effect and within 1 hour everything was where it had to be, our 110 used as a shunter to move the Series 1 into place, then move 175-319 into position
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2932_zpsb23ff3b3.jpg
with my portable gantry and 1Ton chain block, I set about undoing all n sundry off the engine etc,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2933_zpsc33f353b.jpg
remove the floor panels, undo the nuts, engine/gearbox, attach chain sling with as little slack as possible, take the weight, climb into engine bay wriggle n push engine and then all of a sudden it let go, jamming my left arm, I now have a nice bruise for my troubles LOL.
While I was pulling on the continuous chain I was having second thoughts about whether the engine would clear the rad/sup panel, and damn it, it would not clear it, ????:o:mad::(, I was beside myself for a minute or two, thinking the only way to do this now will be to remove the road wheels just as my wife said it as well, here is the result
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2934_zpsa3e6e34f.jpg
to lower the engine I had to use our 110 again to pull 175-319 backwards, jack it back up and put the road wheels back on.
Next item was to remove the clutch pressure/driven plates, I also remembered to clean out the threads on the flywheel after having it machined, I cheated and did it quickly using my cordless drill
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2936_zps7706f483.jpg
with that fitted along with the Alternator, I decided that was enough excitement for one day, I moved the diesel 5 main bearing engine over under the carport,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2937_zpsc46ad1b7.jpg
anyway that's been my day, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

This morning I wasted about 30 minutes making an extension for my engine lifting crane, my head certainly wasn't focused, as I had extended the point of balance by 450mm, as soon as the weight was on the penny dropped :(:(.
Anyway it didn't take long to remove and things got underway, I removed 4 of the bell housing studs and screwed in the extended guides, this makes the job of lining up the gearbox very easy
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2941_zps3a8adc7c.jpg
as the extended studs get into the respective holes long before the input shaft is engaged in the clutch driven plate, then it is only a matter of small movement on the crankshaft to line up the input shaft with the clutch driven plate, then push the engine home
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2942_zps7939c256.jpg
attach all the 3/8"UNF nuts to the studs and torque them up, line up engine mounts and do the same, job almost finished LOL, here is an image of the 4 studs, they were 3/8" Whitworth bolts from Bunnings,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2946_zps43dc7bd0.jpg
I turned/machined the heads off in my lathe, but you could do the same thing on a bench grinder, or just simply cut the heads off and round off the end of the shaft.
I had to change from the engine crane to my overhead gantry half way through the job,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2944_zps85a43086.jpg
just to make the job a little easier, my good wife had to help me as I couldn't see what was happening at the back end of the engine, they seem to get caught on everything :(:mad: here it is insitu
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2943_zps8a1ccee9.jpg
After fitting it all up I had to remove the LHS guard as I will need to modify the electrics
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2947_zps4c9f17d9.jpg
the weather has been a mixture today, but this afternoon it got cold and my back was killing me so I have called it a day, anyway a bit of reading to find out what is what regarding the wiring loom that was installed to suit the diesel, to be modified to suit the petrol engine and keyless start, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:
ps I know I will have to modify the engine pipe, if I can get it out at all, I do have a NOS engine pipe to suit petrol engine, hopefully I can just mod this engine pipe..

[Dinty]

Spent the morning retrieving some small parts from a wreck, just to bring this one step closer to moving under it's own power
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2953_zps7acd8a82.jpg
the diesel throttle cross shaft is different, so I had to swap out for S2A petrol shaft, where did the day go??, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:
ps still need to clean n paint some items, but at least I have everything in place now,,.

[Dinty]

I have spent way too many hours this week to that 4 lettered word aka 'work', anyway this morning I got stuck into modifying the wiring to suit a petrol engine, and I still have to make a couple of additions and do a final tidy up, but this afternoon I was able with my good wife's help to fire the engine up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIShiAzbyxk&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw
I still have to install a fuel pump and delivery line, put the new carburetor on, re-instate the cooling system, shorten the engine pipe to suit a petrol engine, as the petrol engine pipe is shorter in overall length than the diesel pipe (damn), but once I have installed an ignition circuit etc I will be able to start and move the Land Rover under it's own power as it is very heavy with all that other gear on it, swap meet here in Cessnock in the morning I will be over looking at that for a few hours, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

[Rusty Bulkhead]

Thanks for these 'tutorials' Dennis :), much appreciated.

[Dinty]

Well hot on the heels of the ongoing saga, as I said yesterday the 'swap meet' was on this morning and I duly attended, was home by 0930 (was on the ground @0630 in the thick fog), I didn't buy anything.
My neighbor is away O/seas ATM and will be home in the next few days and I have a Land Rover under his carport to allow me some room to work on this job, and I did say to him that I would mow his lawn etc, so with that in mind and the weather forecast for the next few days, I decided that I would be foolish not to utilize the time today, so I edged/whipper snipped @ mowed our's and his, job over by 1210hrs a quick lunch and uncover 175-319.
I had all intentions of completing the fuel system today but as usual 'Murphy's Law' kicks in and the fuel pump I was intending to use would not lift fuel from a jerry can:(:(
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2958_zpsd2ba9514.jpg
so strip it was the order of the afternoon, after making sure I had the items needed to complete the job, clamp the pump lightly in a bench vice, and undo the screws (evenly) around the periphery of the pump (6 screws) lift the top of the pump off by gently easing the diaphragm away from the top half of the pump leaving it in place as such
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2959_zps97901c51.jpg
there are 2 things that can fail in the pump Valves/Diaphragm, my diaphragm was A1 so it had to be the valves, and I was correct they wouldn't seal
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2960_zpsc672810f.jpg
anyway the pump needed to be degreased etc washed and blown out with air, re-assembled
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2961_zps9ada1fac.jpg
when re-assembling the pump, keep the body held by the flange in the vice, attach the top half to the base, fit the 6 screws but only screw them half way in, then pull up on the priming handle and hold it UP, while tightening the screws in opposite sequence, when all are tight you can let the priming handle go, if you don't do this you will tear the diaphragm on the first down stroke and your pump will not work.
Before you fit the pump it is always advisable to check the integrity of the pump, screw in a temporary fuel line and make the pump work, if it doesn't half fill the bowl in 3-4 pumps it is faulty, anyway mine worked
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2962_zps9f43ab32.jpg
and as usual I didn't have a gasket, so I improvised and made one
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2963_zpsec09f4d8.jpg
using some of my wad punches to make cutting around corners a tad easier LOL, the fuel line from the tank to pump is complete, but I need to buy some 'Black plastic' fuel line from the local diesel service and I will complete the fuel line to the new carburetor
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2964_zpsfbb614aa.jpg
in the background of that image, you can see a yellow cable going into a fuse holder, a very well known brand, but I HATE CRIMPED CONNECTIONS, and that fuse holder has just that and moving it yesterday and one end of the fuse holder let go, very poor performance in my opinion, both ends are now soldered as they should have been in the first place, anyone who crimps any 12V connection is asking for trouble IMHO:mad::mad:, anyway that's been my day sort of LOL cheers Dennis:angel:

[Dinty]

I didn't achieve a great deal today, other than a fuel line installed with a S/hand carburetor (it's a good one) mainly because I cannot wait until I source some new fuel lines.
A little bit of electrical work done also, still need to shorten some of the wires/cables, re-fitted the hoses filled block/radiator with water only to find that I have numerous small water leaks coming from the top of the bottom radiator hose, but if needed I can fill it and start it and hopefully move it when my neighbor comes home, that is if he comes home before I had calculated his return, anyway it's back to work, cheers Dennis :angel:

[Dinty]

Continuing along the way as you do, because if I don't do, nobody is going to do it for me :(;).
My next door neighbor has come home from his UK trip, and I had moved 'Chloe' from his carport and moved a No 5 trailer down in front of his spare side of his garage, he says it's not in his way ATM and it can stay there, so that still allows me a little room to move about, and with the weather predictions of heavy rain on the way, I have made good use of the day today.
The exhaust system was the first order of the day, the diesel engine that I had fitted has a very different engine pipe, it is longer and taller, so it needed to be modified to suit the petrol engine, I do have a NOS petrol engine pipe
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2968_zps40acdc84.jpg
but to fit this pipe I would have to remove the PTO and the PTO line shaft, which I thought was way too much work, so I decided to go down the shorten the diesel pipe, so after taking some measurements I marked the pipe by using 2 zip ties
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2967_zps0cf4628b.jpg
join the edges and weld them together using my MIG. The pipe was also cut n shut under the flywheel X member, this will need to be fully welded if I can get it onto a hoist, if not the local exhaust shop will get the job to complete the weld job.
I had bought a brass Olive to join a fuel line to the carburetor, that was a success, no fuel leaks, next was to sort out the choke cable, I bought a generic brand, it will do for the time being, I will need to get a genuine type as the choke will not stay on, but before fitting the choke I had to cut a hole in the bulkhead for the choke cable to pass through, out with the Air/cond fitters tool, cuts a neat hole too
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2969_zpsd2f1d9a6.jpg
the result a neat hole
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2970_zpscf0225a5.jpg
which then allowed me to refit the dash, and the finished job (for the time being)
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2971_zpsee867c73.jpg
tomorrow replace the floor sections and maybe the LHS guard, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

[Dinty]

I'm running out of ideas on how to make this engine run smooth or even keep running rough :o:(:mad::wasntme:
This morning I had the idea that the condenser could be faulty, so I sourced another, item on left is the original, a quick solder job and swapped them
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2976_zpsc75956dc.jpg
held my breath while I started the engine, only to be greeted by the same sounds, engine running rough+++:mad:
It has new plugs, I bought a new set of leads (later found 2 more sets in the shed :( ) anyway that made little or no difference, so I swapped the originals back on.
This afternoon I swapped carburetors, in fact I have had 3 different carburetors on and it has made no difference
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2979_zps34ad335f.jpg
the shiney one has some plastic bits on it, not sure what they are for so I left them as it is
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2977_zpse6e08981.jpg
and in utter disgust with myself I have closed the bonnet and walked away from it
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2978_zps2f37db50.jpg
it is now tarped up against the weather, with no hope of getting this done over the next 3 days it is making me annoyed:mad: anyway cheers grumpy ole Dennis:wheelchair:

[JDNSW]

Check the wire connecting the breaker plate to the distributor body - these sometimes break, leaving the distributor operation dependent on random contact between the breaker plate and the body.

Other than that, check the rest of the low voltage wiring in the ignition circuit, and consider a possible faulty coil. Also, you have tried several sets of HT leads - are any of them known good?

Also, your new carburettor - are the "plastic bits" an idling fuel shutoff solenoid? (Some Zeniths have them to stop running on) If this is the case and it is not connected to the ignition, then the effect will be the same as a blocked idling jet.

John

[Dinty]

I'm still in wonderland, ??? wondering where to look next:(:(, I have replaced the plugs x 4, 4 leads 1 distributor cap. I know the coil and the carburetor that I'm using ATM are in reasonable working condition as I took them off a known working engine:):).
This is what I see when using my timing light. I set the timing 'static' at 3deg BTDC set the points etc, start the engine and the timing light will show the white paint dot in more or less the correct place, increase the engine revolutions and to me it appears to be ?? retarded to blazes??? see image
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_2981_zps7cb79abd.jpg
I have loosened the clamp around the base of the distributor and turned it both ways, but have left it where the engine smoothed out 'kinda sorta', listen to the clip it is running rough, you can just see the white timing mark at times just below the hex nut on the alternator @ around the 2 second mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iim8kUrsfHA&feature=youtu.be
I need to have this running ASAP but I feel it ain't gonna happen :(:(:(:mad: with self, grumpy grumpy:( Dennis:rocket:

[JDNSW]

I can't see the timing from your video, but what I do see is that there seem to be erratic flashes, suggesting an ignition problem such as a loose connection or a faulty HT lead.

Your diagram shows the spark is advancing with increased rpm, not retarding, as it should do. As speed increases the spark is happening a greater distance before the mark gets to TDC.

I don't have a feel for whether the amount of advance is appropriate.

You replaced 4 x HT leads - how about the coil lead?

John

[Dinty]

I have re-checked the compression this morning
No 1 145psi
No 2 140psi
No 3 145psi
No 4 150psi
Dwell angle approx. 58deg
bought No1 piston up, inlet & exhaust valves closed, rockers moving with approx. .010 clearance, timing mark on C/shaft pulley @ 3deg BTDC, rotor button almost opposite or maybe just past the No1 plug lead, ? points still open at that point
The engine has new rings, timing chain, deglaze, seals, gaskets, etc, the cylinder head has been lightly skimmed, valves lapped, valve stem oil seals, new plugs, all leads and distributor cap are all OK, coil & carburetor came off a known good running engine, I'm still at a loss as to why the engine still runs rough.
I have fiddled also this morning with the air volume screw (Zenith carburetor 36IV) it made no real difference until it was screwed almost right in, so that was put back where it was originally.
I have also moved the distributor around with the engine running, too far one direction and it slows down runs very rough, ditto when you take it too far the other way,so at present it is running where the engine runs smoother but still rough.
The points have been filed n gapped, they are not the best, but appear to be OK to me ( nearest place I can get points is a 75k's round trip, that might be happening later)
The strobe (timing light is a cheaper type) but I suppose it has to meet a certain standard before it can be sold here in Oz, the plug leads are in the correct firing order 1-3-4-2, the distributor is a Lucas 45D4 anyway I'm still doing this :(:(:mad: cheers Dennis:angel:

[JDNSW]

Check for inlet manifold leaks - with the engine running, squirt oil on the junction between the manifold and head, and between the carbie and manifold. If there is a leak it will be temporarily blocked and you will hear the difference.

John

[Dinty]

This morning I managed to get a set of points (sheer luck) at a local auto shop in Kurri, after re-setting the timing @ 6deg BTDC, fit the points gapped @ 15thou. From another forum (Series 2 club) I was told to check that the vacuum advance was working, so I set about that very quickly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XURLzXZpmI0&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw
with that having checked out as OK, I had an early lunch.
Around 1230hrs I had a phone call from Gary C and re-enforced what JDNSW had stated here to check for air leaks, I did just that.
I removed the nipple (brake vacuum tube) that I had blocked with a 1/4" bolt, checked for anything else that I thought could cause the engine to run rough, fingers XXX'd the good wife started the engine, and it ran fairly smooth, it will now idle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxUXU8bK4X4&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw
although I didn't let it show in the clip, now to have somebody who knows more than me have a look at it, and if it's OK I can then let the engine warm up, then I can retension the head and set the tappets, fit the rocker cover take it for a drive, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

[Dinty]

Well it's almost a completed task now, yesterday morning I had the engine running for approx. 25minutes to warm it up, re-tensioned the head, re-set the tappets, fitted the rocker cover, air cleaner n tube etc, then I noticed a small pool of oil on the concrete under the engine, AAHHHGGG!! first thought was rear main bearing oil seal not working, but after getting on the creeper armed with a torch I realized that it was oil that had pooled yesterday morning and spilled out over the back of the engine, running with no tappet cover on, phew,,.
This morning I changed carburetor's put the new one on, adjusted the idle, ready to go for a run, the only task left was re-connect the lights on the LHS guard, wrong, I should have had my glasses on, as I earthed out a lead charged with 12 volts, no big deal I thought, but the lights would not work:(:(, fuses checked under the bonnet all OK, I removed the screws that hold the dash in place, checked the light switch for power etc all good there, so stupidly I put the dash back together.
Still scratching my head, no power at the junction near the battery, so I added a wire and presto the lights came on[bigwhistle], then the penny dropped in my head. The vehicle is fitted with a Series 3 wiring harness, the lights have a separate fuse behind the dash
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/IMG_1473-1_zps77560319.jpg
so back out with it, and sure enough the fuse was blown:(:(:mad:, that replaced everything now works, move a few vehicles, and carefully reverse it out of the yard, the vehicle just clears the gates with approx. 25mm each side, I'm suitably impressed with it's performance, even though I didn't get it over 60kph, now only need to have the exhaust engine pipe fully welded.
Next task this afternoon was to take my Series 2 for a run, as it has not moved etc for 4 months, I had to help it along with a drink down the throat of the carburetor and it burst into life, a short run of approx. 6 k's and back into the shed n covered up, anyway that's been my day;) cheers Dennis:angel:

[Dinty]

It runs reasonably smooth now, only task to complete is welding the exhaust fully (engine pipe) I cannot do it lying on my side, it needs to be on a hoist, the engine starts with just a whisk of choke (using a zip tie loop ATM) here is a short clip of it starting from cold
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snBm1vmKSLM&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw
I did manage to take it for a short run on Sunday afternoon, it is a tad quicker than the diesel, anyway Thanks for all the help/suggestions/advice from forum members, cheers Dennis

[Dinty]

I think I had a question posed by ? Mick88 re the engine pipe being very close to the PTO drive shaft, well yes it is very close but it does have enough clearance, so far I have not heard it hit/tap the drive shaft, hope that's of some help cheers Dennis:angel:

[mike_k]

Thanks for that Dennis, that was me!

Lots of us Mikes, Micks, etc around.:D

I thought you meant that you needed to modify the down pipe a bit to clear the drive shaft, glad to hear that this is unnecessary.

My much abused farm ute 2A GS has a down pipe that does hit the shaft, due I think to tired engine mounts and a dodgy previous owner exhaust system.

Still, that's a minor issue compared to some of the other bodges from its past owners.

Cheers,

Mike.