sump depth

[Vern]

Can anyone who has their sump off measure the depth from the gasket surface to the flat part of the sump closest to the crank?
Mine measures around 32mm, and seems to hit the crank! The truck sump must be a 4be1 type I'm guessing:mad:.
I can either mod this one or try and find the correct one, second option is much better me thinks:)

[Vern]

Here is a pic. On the winged sump there are indentations where the crank passes the sump, the truck sump I have does not have this:(

[Judo]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-landy-enthusiasts-section/173791-4bd1-sump-getting-thin-2.html

[Judo]

If it helps, here are some pics of my wingless sump before I fitted it. Engine runs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/180.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/181.jpg

[Vern]

Thanks Justin, I thought there was a thread on it somewhere.

[Vern]

I see you sump drops down a second time on the flat part, that looks like the depth I need.
Where did you get yours from?

[Judo]

Nippon Truck Services > Home (http://www.nippontruck.com.au/)

:)

[Vern]

Cheers I will give them a call. Do you remember how much they stung you for it and was it new or s/hand?

[Judo]

I just asked for a second hand one and it was $165.

[Vern]

Correct sump on its way:).

[Vern]

Justin, did your sump bolt straight up or did you have to remove the existing captive bolts from the block?
I'm undecided which way to go, either remove the captive bolts, get new 20mm long bolts and goo it and bolt it up.
Or
Drill out the sump bolt holes and use the Isuzu landy rubber gasket and all associated gaskets and the existing captive bolts.

[Judo]

I assume the captive bolts are what I called the studs. I.E. Half the sump was held on with normal bolts, the other half have thread coming out of the block and you put nuts on.

I found the base of the captive bolts was larger than the holes in the sump, so the only choice was to remove the captive bolts and use normal bolts, or widen about half the holes in the sump.

Sounds like exactly what you have found also.

I removed all the captive bolts/studs and used normal stainless bolts and RTV silicone.

[Vern]

Cheers judo, now to get the bloody studs out:mad::)

[Judo]

hehe yep, like with most jobs, it's not as easy as it seems and requires a new tool. :D I bought a stud remover tool to get a few of them out. Some came out by hand or with multi-grips or double nuts, but there was of course a couple that were bastards. :mad:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/tool-time/177710-stud-removal-tool.html

[Vern]

Will try matts option, the good old mig:) at least then I can get the sump back on today and get it running again before I go away.:D

[steveG]

Will try matts option, the good old mig:) at least then I can get the sump back on today and get it running again before I go away.:D

What - you're going to weld the sump on :eek::eek::eek: :angel:

[Ancient Mariner]

What - you're going to weld the sump on :eek::eek::eek: :angel:
Quite practical on a Isuzu:D

[Vern]

Never thought to do that steve:D. All studs removed, cut down 24 bolts:eek:, and the sump is back on and its running again.
Setting up the Dawes valve now, but have to remove the Turbo to tap a fitting in for the boost, bugger:(

[steveG]

Never thought to do that steve:D. All studs removed, cut down 24 bolts:eek:, and the sump is back on and its running again.
Setting up the Dawes valve now, but have to remove the Turbo to tap a fitting in for the boost, bugger:(

Good work with the sump.
Can you just drop the compressor housing off to tap it rather than removing the whole turbo?

Found this in my shed this morning: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/196745-theturdis110.html

No work on the 120 for a while yet :(

Steve

[Vern]

That's the plan with the compressor housing, but that will have to wait until after the CSR.:)