300 TDI 130 clutch replacement

[Don 130]

I'm going to have a crack at replacing my slipping clutch. The parts I've listed for the job are as follows: Valeo 130 clutch kit LR009366G
heavy duty clutch fork
clutch fork slipper pad kit
spigot bush
Is there anything else I should be adding? Also I'd be grateful for any tips and tricks anyone can suggest. I haven't done one before, but will be assisted by a suitably mechanical friend.
Don.

[landrover dave]

Gday,
It helps if you weld a flat piece of steel about 5mm thick on the rear of the fork behind the pivot socket. About 40mm square is good.

Cheers Dave

[Blknight.aus]

take out one of the bell housing bolts head to a nut and boltery buy 4 bolts in the same thread that are 150mm long. cut the heads off, bevel the end an cut a screw driver slot in it. wind these in 2 at the bottom and just up past 9 and 3 oclock use these to guide the gearbox into the engine or vice versa depending on if you do the engine pull or the gearbox pull.

[Don 130]

take out one of the bell housing bolts head to a nut and boltery buy 4 bolts in the same thread that are 150mm long. cut the heads off, bevel the end an cut a screw driver slot in it. wind these in 2 at the bottom and just up past 9 and 3 oclock use these to guide the gearbox into the engine or vice versa depending on if you do the engine pull or the gearbox pull.
Thanks Dave, as I have air-con, I'll be shifting the gearbox back.
Don.

[Blknight.aus]

whats your point, remove the Fan, unbolt the AC pump and roll it over up near the wing and secure with zip ties/tie wire.

good time to pull the radiator out and clean out between the radiator and the condensor.

service the electric fans,

stand by for moving the gearbox back to be a lot less fun than you think.

take the exhaust out, drop the cross member and put some safety ropes over the chassis rails and under the gearbox unless you have it on the right kind of floor jack

Take the prop shafts off completely and wrap the park brake drum in good gaffa tape so that when you goto grab it the tape will provide some purchase and you wont loose your grip as it turns in your hand.

[dromader driver]

- hit the floor screws and other sheet metal fasteners with penetrene or wd40 for a week before you start.
- make up a clutch aligning tool or scrounge one from an old box
- packing the spigot hole with grease and a sharp blow with the clutch aligning tool will pop the bush. can be a piece of hardwood if necessary.
- use chain or load restraints not daggy bits of rope to hold things as they are all heavy.
- if pulling the box you will need assistance.
- buy or rent an engine crane for the box slide back. the hydraulic adjustment is needed

[Jock The Rock]

Be sure to check your flywheel for hotspots with a dial gauge. If it's been slipping for a while you may have a few

Replace your slave and master cylinders while you have it apart

Also order the little plastic clip that holds the clutch fork to the release bearing, I can almost guarantee it will break when you pull it apart

[Don 130]

Be sure to check your flywheel for hotspots with a dial gauge. If it's been slipping for a while you may have a few

Replace your slave and master cylinders while you have it apart

Also order the little plastic clip that holds the clutch fork to the release bearing, I can almost guarantee it will break when you pull it apart
Thanks Jock,
Is it the clip shown in this pic?
Don.

[Devans]

I'd definitely recommend reinforcing your clutch fork and I'd also recommend looking for a reinforced release bearing. When my release bearing imploded it made my life hell for 3 weeks.

[Don 130]

Can anyone tell me what the thread is on the bell housing bolts that Dave Blknight has suggested I get to make up the 150mm dowels.
Don.

[Jock The Rock]

Thanks Jock,
Is it the clip shown in this pic?
Don.

Yeh that's the one mate

Pretty sure those bolts are an M10x1.5, pull one out and take it into the bolt shop with you. I don't reckon your gearbox will jump out of the car on your way to the shop :p

[Don 130]

Is it a good long term solution to sleeve my original slave and master cylinders with S/S rather than replace?
Don.

[Jock The Rock]

If money isn't too much of an issue then I would definitely do it.

Slave cylinders aren't too bad but master cylinders are a ***** for leaking. I replaced mine 4 times over 60,000km in my old Defender

[Devans]

Is it a good long term solution to sleeve my original slave and master cylinders with S/S rather than replace?
Don.

Definitely resleeve the master and I suppose you may as well do the slave. It'll save you a lot of time and effort down the line.

[schuy1]

Strange, I have replaced 3 slaves in the TDi's life and yet am still on the original Master! :o ( I shall find a pool of fluid on the floor in the morning now! ) S/S sleeving in reality does not last much longer than a good quality replacement, The S/S still pits from the B/Fluid.
Its main benefit is resurrecting obsolete cylinders or 1's made out of unobtainium metals on vintage cars.
Cheers Scott

[Devans]

Strange, I have replaced 3 slaves in the TDi's life and yet am still on the original Master! :o ( I shall find a pool of fluid on the floor in the morning now! ) S/S sleeving in reality does not last much longer than a good quality replacement, The S/S still pits from the B/Fluid.
Its main benefit is resurrecting obsolete cylinders or 1's made out of unobtainium metals on vintage cars.
Cheers Scott

As for the pitting from the brake fluid, some use DOT3 fluid as it is less abrasive (there are threads on it throughout this page), hence increasing the life of the master cylinder. I noticed when I was replacing my master cylinder recently that on the cap it says to use DOT3 fluid, whilst in the manual it says use DOT4.

After a bit of research I found the only real advantage of DOT4 fluid is that it has a better heat rating. As far as I'm aware, heat isn't a real issue for the hydraulic clutch system.

I have DOT3 fluid in my '96 110 and it's going strong with a SS master cylinder and standard slave.

[isuzu110]

I have gone back to DOT3 fuild as well and have better life from the cylinders. It's a little harder to find, but no big deal

[schuy1]

As for the pitting from the brake fluid, some use DOT3 fluid as it is less abrasive (there are threads on it throughout this page), hence increasing the life of the master cylinder. I noticed when I was replacing my master cylinder recently that on the cap it says to use DOT3 fluid, whilst in the manual it says use DOT4.

After a bit of research I found the only real advantage of DOT4 fluid is that it has a better heat rating. As far as I'm aware, heat isn't a real issue for the hydraulic clutch system.

I have DOT3 fluid in my '96 110 and it's going strong with a SS master cylinder and standard slave.


Interesting. I have never thought of that before in that context. My main experiance is in brake cyl , both master and slave, I always just run the same fluid in both for convenience sakes. And you are correct, heat is not a problem in clutch hyd systems. DOT4 is a higher rated, higher temp fluid designed for the rigors of disc brakes. Using DOT3 in discs is not recommended.
Cheers Scott

[Don 130]

I thought of re-sleeving because of the bewildering number of aftermarket brands out there, no doubt of varying, unpredictable quality. I also thought re-sleeving would be a long lasting solution. It seems like it might be an option if used in conjunction with the Dot.3 fluid.
Don.

[86mud]

You might as well replace the main seal at the back of the motor.... While everything is out.

[Don 130]

Can anyone provide me with the dimensions of the clutch aligning tool? I've got 22mm for the spigot bush ID and 23mm for the bore of the clutch plate. Are these correct and what are the lineal dimensions?
I've had a delay due to the wrong kit being sent.
Don.

[Blknight.aus]

use anything that fits into the spigot hole, wrap it in tape till its a snug fit for the depth of the spigot hole.

wrap the point where the friction plate sits in tape till its a snug fit in the splines.

Im lucky, I have a 3/8th drive socket that fits the spigot, a 3/8Male-1/2
Male drive adaptorand a 1/2 inch socket that fits the spline. Failing that ask around someone near you might have an alignging tool or a dead front end on an r380

[Don 130]

Thanks Dave, I want to be able to drive the old spigot bush out by filling it with grease and whacking the aligner into it. Unless you have another solution. My neighbour is happy to turn one up for me. And by the way, after a previous comment by you we'll take the engine out instead.

Don.

[Blknight.aus]

fill it with oiled up 1/2 inch chunks of news paper, put a 1/2 inch drive extension bar in female side first with a couple of turns of elecy tape to get the seal near enough and have at it.

or chip it out with a chisel.

[Don 130]

Well, we borrowed an engine crane, pulled the lump out (Thanks Dave Blknight)and discovered the clutch with 100,000km on it was less than a millimetre thinner than the new one. Plenty of meat left on it, but it was full of oil. further investigation showed the rear main seal gasket had failed. replaced the seal with rtv sealant (elring) and no gasket. (Thanks JC). also replaced clutch fork (heavy duty),the slippers, thrust bearing with plastic lug. Also fixed up weeping oil cooler lines by removing swages and brazing barbs on the ends of the metal lines. 1/2" oil resistant hose and jubilee clips completed the job.
Thanks to all who gave advice, It's so nice to have good mechanics in the family.
Don.

PS. The thread size for the aligning studs to put engine and gearbox back together is indeed M10x1.5 (thanks Jock the Rock) Gal 6" coach bolts from the hardware are perfect. Cut the heads off, saw a slot in the end for easy removal with screwdriver afterwards. We were in a rush and didn't actually use them.:p