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Thread: 300 TDI 130 clutch replacement

  1. #1
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    300 TDI 130 clutch replacement

    I'm going to have a crack at replacing my slipping clutch. The parts I've listed for the job are as follows: Valeo 130 clutch kit LR009366G
    heavy duty clutch fork
    clutch fork slipper pad kit
    spigot bush
    Is there anything else I should be adding? Also I'd be grateful for any tips and tricks anyone can suggest. I haven't done one before, but will be assisted by a suitably mechanical friend.
    Don.

  2. #2
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    clutch fork

    Gday,
    It helps if you weld a flat piece of steel about 5mm thick on the rear of the fork behind the pivot socket. About 40mm square is good.

    Cheers Dave

  3. #3
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    take out one of the bell housing bolts head to a nut and boltery buy 4 bolts in the same thread that are 150mm long. cut the heads off, bevel the end an cut a screw driver slot in it. wind these in 2 at the bottom and just up past 9 and 3 oclock use these to guide the gearbox into the engine or vice versa depending on if you do the engine pull or the gearbox pull.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    take out one of the bell housing bolts head to a nut and boltery buy 4 bolts in the same thread that are 150mm long. cut the heads off, bevel the end an cut a screw driver slot in it. wind these in 2 at the bottom and just up past 9 and 3 oclock use these to guide the gearbox into the engine or vice versa depending on if you do the engine pull or the gearbox pull.
    Thanks Dave, as I have air-con, I'll be shifting the gearbox back.
    Don.

  5. #5
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    whats your point, remove the Fan, unbolt the AC pump and roll it over up near the wing and secure with zip ties/tie wire.

    good time to pull the radiator out and clean out between the radiator and the condensor.

    service the electric fans,

    stand by for moving the gearbox back to be a lot less fun than you think.

    take the exhaust out, drop the cross member and put some safety ropes over the chassis rails and under the gearbox unless you have it on the right kind of floor jack

    Take the prop shafts off completely and wrap the park brake drum in good gaffa tape so that when you goto grab it the tape will provide some purchase and you wont loose your grip as it turns in your hand.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    - hit the floor screws and other sheet metal fasteners with penetrene or wd40 for a week before you start.
    - make up a clutch aligning tool or scrounge one from an old box
    - packing the spigot hole with grease and a sharp blow with the clutch aligning tool will pop the bush. can be a piece of hardwood if necessary.
    - use chain or load restraints not daggy bits of rope to hold things as they are all heavy.
    - if pulling the box you will need assistance.
    - buy or rent an engine crane for the box slide back. the hydraulic adjustment is needed
    Last edited by dromader driver; 7th May 2014 at 07:04 AM. Reason: forgot last poing

  7. #7
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    Be sure to check your flywheel for hotspots with a dial gauge. If it's been slipping for a while you may have a few

    Replace your slave and master cylinders while you have it apart

    Also order the little plastic clip that holds the clutch fork to the release bearing, I can almost guarantee it will break when you pull it apart

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jock The Rock View Post
    Be sure to check your flywheel for hotspots with a dial gauge. If it's been slipping for a while you may have a few

    Replace your slave and master cylinders while you have it apart

    Also order the little plastic clip that holds the clutch fork to the release bearing, I can almost guarantee it will break when you pull it apart
    Thanks Jock,
    Is it the clip shown in this pic?
    Don.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
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    I'd definitely recommend reinforcing your clutch fork and I'd also recommend looking for a reinforced release bearing. When my release bearing imploded it made my life hell for 3 weeks.

  10. #10
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    Can anyone tell me what the thread is on the bell housing bolts that Dave Blknight has suggested I get to make up the 150mm dowels.
    Don.

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