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Thread: 300 TDI 130 clutch replacement

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
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    Can anyone provide me with the dimensions of the clutch aligning tool? I've got 22mm for the spigot bush ID and 23mm for the bore of the clutch plate. Are these correct and what are the lineal dimensions?
    I've had a delay due to the wrong kit being sent.
    Don.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
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    use anything that fits into the spigot hole, wrap it in tape till its a snug fit for the depth of the spigot hole.

    wrap the point where the friction plate sits in tape till its a snug fit in the splines.

    Im lucky, I have a 3/8th drive socket that fits the spigot, a 3/8Male-1/2
    Male drive adaptorand a 1/2 inch socket that fits the spline. Failing that ask around someone near you might have an alignging tool or a dead front end on an r380
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
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    Thanks Dave, I want to be able to drive the old spigot bush out by filling it with grease and whacking the aligner into it. Unless you have another solution. My neighbour is happy to turn one up for me. And by the way, after a previous comment by you we'll take the engine out instead.

    Don.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    fill it with oiled up 1/2 inch chunks of news paper, put a 1/2 inch drive extension bar in female side first with a couple of turns of elecy tape to get the seal near enough and have at it.

    or chip it out with a chisel.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Wantabadgery, N.S.W.
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    Well, we borrowed an engine crane, pulled the lump out (Thanks Dave Blknight)and discovered the clutch with 100,000km on it was less than a millimetre thinner than the new one. Plenty of meat left on it, but it was full of oil. further investigation showed the rear main seal gasket had failed. replaced the seal with rtv sealant (elring) and no gasket. (Thanks JC). also replaced clutch fork (heavy duty),the slippers, thrust bearing with plastic lug. Also fixed up weeping oil cooler lines by removing swages and brazing barbs on the ends of the metal lines. 1/2" oil resistant hose and jubilee clips completed the job.
    Thanks to all who gave advice, It's so nice to have good mechanics in the family.
    Don.

    PS. The thread size for the aligning studs to put engine and gearbox back together is indeed M10x1.5 (thanks Jock the Rock) Gal 6" coach bolts from the hardware are perfect. Cut the heads off, saw a slot in the end for easy removal with screwdriver afterwards. We were in a rush and didn't actually use them.

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