Recovery points on Perentie

[DBT]

Possibly a question for the Recovery forum, but as it's Perentie specific, I'll start here...

Thinking about suitable recovery equipment for the new toy.

Are the Perentie lift points suitable for use as recovery points?

If so, what would be suitable attachment hardware? Is there specific equipment that works with the large holes/ bolts / inner workings of these lift points?

As always, thanks for any advice.

PS. I don't have a winch.

[Bearman]

Use the tie down holes in the protrusions on the front of the bullbar. Put some rated D shackles in there. Same at the rear. The lift points are the big holes at the back of the front bar and the fold out ones in the rear crossmember, better to use the tie down points. These points are directly on the chassis rail.
When you can afford it my advice would be to get hold of a proper perentie winch/pto. You wont be disappointed!

[isuzutoo-eh]

Almost what Brian said...
Your bullbar and rear crossmember have three sets of holes each. Helicopter lift points are the big holes front and rear-they are sort-of behind the bullbar on the front. Tie-down points are the pivoting bits inside the rear heli lifting points, the front tie-down point is the larger holes in the front end protrusions
The rear recovery points are the small sized holes on a separate lug just inboard of the heli lifting points, whilst the front recovery points are the small holes on the bullbar protrusions.

[DBT]

Use the tie down holes in the protrusions on the front of the bullbar.

Fair enough. I was taught to never use tie down points as recovery points. However these ones do look pretty solid!

Never used a PTO winch before. Was planning to get an electric eventually. Even better would be a 28v winch (if they exist - or convert one) to exploit the FFR system.

[Bearman]

Fair enough. I was taught to never use tie down points as recovery points. However these ones do look pretty solid!

Never used a PTO winch before. Was planning to get an electric eventually. Even better would be a 28v winch (if they exist - or convert one) to exploit the FFR system.

Personal choice but if you want a strong, reliable winch that you can use all day without overheating you wont go past the Thomas PTO type on the perentie. It even has an overload clutch in the PTO drive so you cant damage the winch itself as well as being capable of using at all 4 forward gear speeds and reverse. There was one on ebay recently for $1500, a bargain in my opinion.

[DBT]

The rear recovery points are the sized holes just inboard of the heli lifting points, whilst the front recovery points are the small holes on the bullbar protrusions.

Perfect! Thanks Mark.

As the recovery points aren't labelled on the data plate, I wasn't sure about this.

Bearman, agree the OEM PTO would be the best solution. For me I feel more comfortable managing / installing an electric as a DIY project. My usage will be very occasional, thus a winch is a fair way down my list. :)

[Barefoot Dave]

G'Day DBT.
Seems strange, doesn't it? Don't use the points designed to lift an entire vehicle with a helicopter?!?
These points are designed for, effectively, static load ie, no sudden jerking. Compare the thickness of the front and rear recovery points and you will see which is more serious.
I third the PTO suggestion. The con of a PTO is that if the engine cannot run, you have no winch. For this reason, we always carried a tirfor winch when on patrol. There was always the Jackall as a backup for the backup.
In reality, with careful operation when fording, I never saw a vehicle stalled out.
We had lots of opportunities to test the theory!

[Blknight.aus]

DO NOT use the lift points as recovery points.

use the tie down points.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1367.jpg

the bottom rings and the small hole on this image in the bit that protrudes forwards of the bar (aframe mount point)

on the rear use the smaller welded tabs, not the larger rings.


ALWAYS endevour use a bridal strap. idealy you want to keep the angle at the points under 15 degrees from parallel (165 degrees included angle between the chassis and the strap) but down to 45 degrees (135 degrees included angle) will be workable.

The reason you cant recover the vehicle by the lift points (and its not just for choppers they're also for cranes)

the lift points are rated to 1.5*GVM each. The tie down points are rated to a minimum of 5*GVM each. If you have it have a look at the load restraints guide.. Tied into a herc or c-17 a 110 has better than 30T worth of restraint on it. When I sling one from a crane its got... umm the wieght of the landy on it. In theory you can lift the entire vehicle from one point with the relevent safety factor still aplicable. This is to do with worst case scenario, what happens if the lifting gear brakes and its all hanging from one point I wind up with a GVM's worth of weight swinging from one hook. What happens when a plane or truck slams into a dead stop obstacle.. All of a sudden the landrover goes from an effective weight of about GVM to Lots of speed*GVM.

I know what points I use to recover from, its not the lifting eyes.

DONT try to use the FFR batteries to drive a winch unless you uprate the cables. Theyre only good for 100AH and if they are the proper FFR batteries are a deep cycle battery.

[rathgar]

I went to attach a chain to the tie down point (front) using one of my recovery shackles the other day. But the pin of the shackle is to large. What options are there?
Use a lower rated shackle?
Use the lower rated lift point?
Drill out the tie down points (lowering their rating)?

All these options reduce the mwrgin for saftey.

[Blknight.aus]

if you cant get a shackle through that gopping great hole in the bottom of the front bar I dont want to know how bad you got it stuck but start digging and I'll be along in an excavator to hopefully dig it out before it fosilizes.

The ones in the rear are ment to be used with a JATE style ring, they are a special shaped shackle that looks like a trapezium.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1355.jpg shackles like that one are also available that fit.

there are specialist shackles that fit them but if you're recovering from the rear why not use the pintle hook? (assuming you left it fitted) ITs rated for a shedload more than you are likely to put on performing a non snatch recovery and more than you are likely to put down if you are doing a snatch recovery (unless you over rate the recovery strap)


the smaller holes at the front are actually the attachment points for the A frame. Yes, I have one. Yes I even have the endorsement to use it and yes, I have used it. What do I use it for normally.

dead weight for working out with.

[rathgar]

I miss understood.
Use either the small or large hole at the front just not the hole "behind the bar"
Good because that's what I did.

[rathgar]

Almost what Brian said...
..... whilst the front recovery points are the small holes on the bullbar protrusions.

No thats why I was confused. Now I understand.

[DBT]

Hi Dave,

Wouldnt Jates be too wide for the recovery points? The ones i have seen are wide enough to fit through chassis rails. Is there a correct size for Perentie use?

Bow shackles would seem to be ideal, such as the one you pictured.

Is one better than the other?

Thanks.

[Blknight.aus]

JATE is not just one type of shackle, its a name brand but they have become synonymous with one type of shackle in the same way as cresent has become synonymous with a shifter.

The full chassis width ones are too wide. I'll have a dig through my box and see if I still have one but since my normal recovery technique for the perentie has always been hook up the winch to the pintle and winch it backwards I dont think I have them. ]


UP the front if its really stuck I either drop the A frame on and recover using the a frame OR I bridle strap the front end using 4.5T bow shackles in the big holes.

I think from memory the shackles that fit the holes in the front and rear (the small ones) are wide mouth 3.25T shackles.

[Darrenf]

Hi
My perentie has the tie down protrusions removed pre purchase from AFM. Any ideas without DIY welding points back re other posts?

[Chris Hopkins]

Hi
My perentie has the tie down protrusions removed pre purchase from AFM. Any ideas without DIY welding points back re other posts?

I drilled replacement holes as per photo. Placing the hole towards the front so the shackle pin pressure point would be on the original area and not the welded plug.
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