3.5 v8 Dead - options

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Well my biggest fear has come true - the 3.5v8 in my 101 is officially dead.

I had sent it back to the mechanics because it was running very poorly (no power, over heating, missing, etc).

The diagnosis came back with the following compression test:
1-40 3-75 5-95 7-75
2-75 4-95 6-0 8-55

The mechanic said that rebuilding the engine will not be a cheap option and that I should look at replacing the engine.
I myself do not have the experience, knowledge or equipment to attempt an engine rebuild.
And considering it is coming out of a 101 ambulance body - it's isn't going to be fun.

So this leaves me at a cross road - and I would appreciate some advice from the brains trust on here.

1) Should I replace the 3.5 - with a second hand unit (probably the cheapest option) ?

2) Should I replace the 3.5 - with a re-conditioned unit from a Land Rover specialist ?

3) Should I replace the 3.5 - with a 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 ?

4) Will a 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 slot straight in? Will it fit in a 101? Is the block the same?

5) Knowing that the later 3.5, 3.9, 4.0 & 4.6 had various forms of fuel injection/electronics, what is involved with removing the electronics and retro fitting the carbies from my existing 3.5?

My problem is this - I do not have an unlimited budget. And I cannot do the work myself - so I will be outsourcing the project, which I expect will cost a bit of money on labour. :(

If I had unlimited funds then I would put a diesel in it - but I simply do not have these funds available.

I have seen 3.5 engines for about $1,000 - and been told that a new 4.6 could cost up to $8K....

So I have to make some tough decisions:

a) Buy second hand or new?
b) Go for a 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 - assuming that it will fit/work...

Opinions? Ideas? :censored: :dbcry:

[bee utey]

A second hand running 3.5 should cost you a small number of $hundreds at most and it could run for many years yet. For example, I'm wrecking an '89 RRC, and at around 300,000km old the engine runs fine. They are the slowest yet longest lived version of the LRV8 and therefore often end up stashed at the back of a shed when the car around it falls to bits. All the other versions are more stressed and prone to early failure and should be thoroughly reconditioned unless proven to be very low mileage.

As for exterior engine bits, everything off your 3.5 should bolt up to any donor V8 engine.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Earth to Bacicat!;)

[101 Ron]

The safest and best bang for your dollar is another 3.5 rover V8.


Reconditioned with the cam shaft and timing chain up grades would even be better.

The Bigger rover V8s will swap over without too much trouble, if you stick with carburettors, but you will need the services of a good mechanic to reset the jet and needle in the carburettors to suit the bigger capacity motor.
Next up on the cost of things is fuel injection on the later rover V8s fitted to The 101 which requires extensive wiring up grades and cost due to the fact the 101 was never designed for EFI.


If you are not mechanically minded and poor.........finding another 3.5 rover V8 is not hard , but finding one with a good or proven history is hard as they are now a very old motor.......profestionally reconditioned one is the safe option and do all the unbolting and bolting up work your self will save money and the parts will swap over from one motor to another.
Just remember the standard 101 engine oil pump and oil cooler set up if it is still fitted to your 101 is hard to prime for a new or reco engine start and some people fill the 101 oil pump with thin grease or thick oil for easy new engine oil pressure priming.
When you get into the job of removing the motor from a 101 it is straight forward job as it is a big Meccano set and access comes easier.
Doors and seats are removed easily etc.

[Sitec]

Hi GG. Not good news! But... I have a 3.9 V8 in the shed which I've had in mine and is known to be good. It does not belong to me, but I'll txt the owner and c what he wants for it if you like. Its already set up for a 101 with carbs, has the gear lever pilar on it etc etc. I will txt him and PM you back! :). I can see a tutorial engine change happening at Wombat..... ;)

[The ho har's]

Not good to hear:( Can't offer any suggestions. We hope everything turns out the best for you.

[Mick_Marsh]

A 3.5 will cost about $8k to rebuild.
You might consider looking for a Range Rover Classic to wreck. That way you can test the motor before you buy.

A thought would be to host a BBQ or two.
Engine removal day and engine replacement day.

Oh, have a chat with Lardy. He replaced the motor in his ambo recently.

[Mick_Marsh]

Hi GG. Not good news! But... I have a 3.9 V8 in the shed which I've had in mine and is known to be good. It does not belong to me, but I'll txt the owner and c what he wants for it if you like. Its already set up for a 101 with carbs, has the gear lever pilar on it etc etc. I will txt him and PM you back! :). I can see a tutorial engine change happening at Wombat..... ;)
Yay!
GG, road trip.

[Homestar]

Earth to Bacicat!;)

Spoken to GG at length about this. I do have an old 3.5 in the shed, but it is far from healthy which is why I pulled it out in the first place. I am quite shocked that the engine is knackered as it drove so well on the way back from Canberra. As much as I hate to say it, I'm wondering if the PO knew about this and tried to cover it up.



A thought would be to host a BBQ or two.
Engine removal day and engine replacement day.

Oh, have a chat with Lardy. He replaced the motor in his ambo recently.

It would be good to know how Lardy did it, as it looks like a **** of a job to do. Not sure if it can be done in a driveway yet - it almost looks like it has to be dropped out the bottom. Without either tearing up all the floors - not easy in this unit as there is cabinets, etc over parts of the access covers, or lifting the whole body off.

As always though, if there is anything I can do, I am happy to help out. If it can be DIY'ed, then I'm willing to give it a shot.

[AndyG]

You guys are amazing, all,this support in a few hours, I dips my lid to you all.

[Sitec]

It would be good to know how Lardy did it, as it looks like a **** of a job to do. Not sure if it can be done in a driveway yet - it almost looks like it has to be dropped out the bottom....


Engine cover off, rad out, linkage off, manifolds off in situ, then there's enough room to slid it forward and out thru the pax door.. The more you can get off the motor the easier it is.. ***** of a job on Ambo's but it can be done... Especially if there's many hands and a way of attaching something to the roof... Can the small panel behind the engine cover be removed? Have seen pics and know that the gearbox cover can't be without major mods!! :)

[101 Ron]

Gearbox and transfercase drops out though the bottom and is easy and straight forward.( can be taken out though the top on a soft top GS)
The engine will rest on is engine mounts until you are ready to lift it out.
A engine lifter from repco /super cheap etc will not have the reach and lift to get the motor out.
You need something a bit better to reach in though the side doors and lift the motor out though the side.
I don't know if it can be dropped out though the bottom, but if you are careful I cannot see why it could not be done with the heads removed from the motor first.???
If me I would use a forklift with a jib attachment and lift out though the cabin as that is what I have access to......it is different for everyone.

[Mick_Marsh]

You guys are amazing, all,this support in a few hours, I dips my lid to you all.
It's a 101 thing. A bit like AA. We feel each others pain.

[Sitec]

Gearbox and transfercase drops out though the bottom and is easy and straight forward.( can be taken out though the top on a soft top GS)
The engine will rest on is engine mounts until you are ready to lift it out.
A engine lifter from repco /super cheap etc will not have the reach and lift to get the motor out.
You need something a bit better to reach in though the side doors and lift the motor out though the side.
I don't know if it can be dropped out though the bottom, but if you are careful I cannot see why it could not be done with the heads removed from the motor first.???
If me I would use a forklift with a jib attachment and lift out though the cabin as that is what I have access to......it is different for everyone.


Don't forget its an Auto Ron.. Not only that.. Don't fancy removing the heads on the replacement engine.. Re getting it out, yeah, you're prob right.. Strip it and drop it... Not sure what's been modified around it.. Managed to lift mine out from above minus manifolds etc.. But I don't have an Ambo.... :D Either way, GG, something will happen... There's going to b a few 101 'people' around in early Aug!! :)

[101RRS]

A 3.5 will cost about $8k to rebuild.


About half that if you source parts yourself and contract out the techo stuff in the rebuild.

Based on my very slow 4.6 rebuild.

Garry

[Homestar]

I've already had the pleasure of having the box and TC out on this vehicle when I did the rear main on it - what a waste of time that turned out to be....:D. Came out underneath without too much fuss. Covers behind the engine cannot be removed easily, there is a cupboard on the wall that comes out behind the passenger seat, so I'd have to look at if the engine would go out there, but it may do. I have an engine crane and an adjustable engine lifting bar, so no dramas there - I think it would reach high enough.

[Brute]

I personally would go for the 3.9 injected motor. Perfect match if you have the 4hp 20 auto and don't need the gap between the carbs for the gear lever. The extra electrics needed is fairly simple if you have the donor rangy or disco . The 3.9 should also have the oil cooler adaptor already fitted, might have to remote mount the filter.
I have a couple of 3.5,s in Perth if you needed one. They were both runners but not sure how well.

Cheers

Ian

[The ho har's]

We have the workshop and the gear up here to do this. Tis a pity you all are sooo faaar away:(

Mrs hh:angel:

[chazza]

I think getting the engine out will be absurdly easy compared to the lottery of finding a good secondhand engine!

For example; the 3500 in my P6 was running very well when it burnt a valve and I decided to recondition it. When it was stripped I found two cracked liners, a buggered camshaft, knackered rockers and shafts, etc. and yet it was running really well!

A complete rebuild cost me $2800 with me assembling it, however, in those days I didn't know about top hat liners and when I had it running for about 10 000 km the re-bored liners came loose!

So think long and carefully about rebuilding before you go to the trouble of putting it in, given the difficulty of the ambulance body.

Good luck,
Cheers Charlie

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Well thanks to Sitec - I have sourced (I believe) a good second hand 3.9

I will be hooking up the trailer and heading over to SA this weekend to pick it up, and hopefully get it installed sometime next week..

Fingers crossed - I shall make it to Wombat!

I will keep the old engine - for spares. Who knows - maybe one day I would even rebuild it ha ha!

I shall keep you all posted. Cheers.

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Saturday morning started off at about 7:00am - in the dark at my place loading up my trailer, for the trip across to see Sitec...

Entering into South Australia:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4217_zps5515a68a.jpg

Here is the engine in Sitec's Aladdin's cave:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4203_zpsb712fd75.jpg

Here is the engine being loaded with the help of Sitec's tractor
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4205_zps1126581b.jpg

A lovely dinner, lots of wine and many stories later - we finished up at about 11pm. I have to thank Sitec (and the lovely Hills) - what absolutely fantastic, generous and funny people.

Sunday morning started early at about 7:00am - and heading for home.

Trailer loaded up and the Rover V8 heading to Victoria:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4212_zpsc7061f56.jpg

The drive from Sitec's house down to Murray Bridge is very scenic. It's a beautiful part of the world:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4208_zps47afeb6e.jpg
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4209_zps5441b5f9.jpg

The famous "land rover on a pole":
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4215_zps879fe3df.jpg

Entering into Victoria:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4222_zps2ca7c475.jpg

Got home at about 5:30pm - 2 long days but well worth the effort..

I have to thank Sitec for helping me source the replacement engine, loading it up on the trailer, going for a spin in his BEAST, dinner and a bed.

Oh and Sitec's 101 is simply fantastic... Certainly makes me think about putting a slow V8 back into mine... Hmmm :wasntme:

Let the next phase begin...

[Sitec]

It was gud to see u guys, and hope it drops in and works out well!! With this V8 in yours, you can pull the other apart and see what was going on inside it. :)

[grey_ghost]

Well,

This morning I dropped off the engine at the Mechanics...

It was weird seeing the 101 up on the hoist - it would certainly make changing the engine a lot easier than trying to do it in a driveway... !

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4225_zps8626ee68.jpg

[Homestar]

May it be a speedy recovery...

[synthium]

Good luck Grey_ghost! And thanks for picking up those tyres for me too ;)

[Lionelgee]

Hello Grey Ghost,

It has been a while since you mentioned how well the replacement engine installation is going? Are there any progress reports available?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[grey_ghost]

Hi Lionelgee,

Well... Progress at the mechanics has been very slow, which is making me both :( and :mad:

Anyway - things are getting very close, and I might get Harry back in a week or two...

New engine is in.
Replaced the rear main seal
Replaced the head gaskets
Radiator taken apart (take off top + bottom tanks, flush the fins) - was 50% blocked
New water pump, new viscous fan, new fan blades
New HTC leads, new spark plugs
New Coil
New exhaust gaskets

Apparently it runs and drives well - a new engine kinda helps!

What's the delay now? Unfortunately the temp sender (a copper pipe filled with alcohol) was broken when being re-fitted. I can see this happening as it is a 30+ year old car, and things become brittle. Problem is - I have been told that you can't get this part anymore (apart from importing it from England)... I have also been told that it is the same part on a Series III 109, so you wouldn't think that it would be that hard to find...

The mechanic doesn't want to give the car back to me without a working temp gauge - which is understandable, because that's how I diagnosed that something was wrong with the original engine... So to be safe - I agree that we do need a functioning temp gauge...

The temp gauge has been sent to a company in Melbourne that can repair gauges. That's a 5-7 working day turn around.

In the meantime, the hunt is on - so if anybody has any ideas on where to find a 101 FC temp gauge sender pipe - I am all ears...

(I had thought about purchasing a VDO or other brand after market temp gauge, and fitting that - which I still might do - but I would prefer to keep the dashboard looking original at this stage)

Cheers,

[JayBoRover]

Hya GG,
I believe (because the previous owner of mine said so:wasntme:) that my 101 has a Series temp gauge sender/gauge replacing the original one. This keeps the dash working as per original. However, he seemed to be suspicious of the Series sender and thought it was reading high (Reads about 2/3 to 3/4 when normal running and gets within 3 or 4 mm of the red zone on highway running up the long hills or into the headwind across the Nullabor). So he fitted a VDO electric gauge as well. This has helped prove that the Series gauge seems to be fine as the VDO gets up to a bit over 100 to 105 DegC in the same conditions as described above. General running it sits about 85 to 90 DegC. No matter how hard it was pushed it never went above 105 DegC or into the red of the standard gauge, so I believe my engine is fine but the radiator might need some work.

So why not do the same and fit a VDO electric gauge for peace of mind as a backup to the standard gauge, especially seeing as noticing the high temp was your initial clue of an issue with the engine?

I hope everything works out for you. I guess this means you missed Wombat though?:(

Cheers

[grey_ghost]

Hi JayBoRover,

Sounds like a good idea (running the standard and a VDO).

It is very hard to see in this picture, and I think that this *might* be because mine was an ambulance (or that could have nothing to do with it) but there is a spare round empty area on the left hand side of the trans tunnel. If you look in the below picture, you can see it just to the left of the heater cover...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Is that where your VDO gauge is? If not - I wonder if one would fit there.. :wasntme:

No I didn't make it to Wombat in the 101. I did pop out there yesterday to visit and say hello to the good folks of AULRO. It was nearly a 4 hour round trip, but well worth meeting some new people.

Cheers,
Tom.

[Brute]

Another option is to look at the madman ems. Will read water temp oil temp, oil press , low water alarm etc. neat little unit and easy to install. I have one in the Rangy comp truck replacing all the gauges and it is just stuck to the dash with velcro

http://www.nata.net.au

[JayBoRover]

Hi JayBoRover,

Sounds like a good idea (running the standard and a VDO).

It is very hard to see in this picture, and I think that this *might* be because mine was an ambulance (or that could have nothing to do with it) but there is a spare round empty area on the left hand side of the trans tunnel. If you look in the below picture, you can see it just to the left of the heater cover...

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/d5dcb7a3-b2f7-46d8-b0e7-30952948e8f0_zpsa91a3c21.jpg

Is that where your VDO gauge is? If not - I wonder if one would fit there.. :wasntme:

No I didn't make it to Wombat in the 101. I did pop out there yesterday to visit and say hello to the good folks of AULRO. It was nearly a 4 hour round trip, but well worth meeting some new people.

Cheers,
Tom.
Hey Tom,

I suspect the hole for a gauge you are referring to is indeed specifically for the ambulances ... but as I have the special ambulance bits on my GS I can show you what's there.

As you can see in my photo, the VDO temp gauge is fitted in the middle of the three gauges above the engine/heater ducting. (Left to right is ammeter, engine temperature and LPG fuel level). The gauge filling the hole that I think you are referring to near the bottom left corner of the photo is an air pressure gauge. My understanding is that the ambulances generally seem to have been fitted with an engine driven air compressor with a receiver tank, and the gauge indicates the tank pressure. I was told that my GS is fitted with an air comp system from an ambulance, although the air tank is in the engine cooling duct between the chassis rails, which I don't think is the normal location for the tank in an ambulance, but I'd be happy to be corrected.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1360.jpg (http://s229.photobucket.com/user/GaelJohn/media/My%201975%20Land%20Rover%20101/P8030004_zps1eb52cd6.jpg.html)

I hope this helps.
Cheers
John B

[DasLandRoverMan]

The standard Series 3 electric gauge works fine with the V8 sender.
Getting it to fit to an original 101 manifold is more of an issue though.

Also, I am aware that there are at least 2 different temp senders for the V8 depending on where they were sold.
Personally I don't see the poi t in having a mega accurate gauge. Provided the cooling system is up to scratch there's no reason why the standard gauge (correctly set) shouldn't tell you all you need to know.

[stuee]

The standard Series 3 electric gauge works fine with the V8 sender.
Getting it to fit to an original 101 manifold is more of an issue though.

Also, I am aware that there are at least 2 different temp senders for the V8 depending on where they were sold.
Personally I don't see the poi t in having a mega accurate gauge. Provided the cooling system is up to scratch there's no reason why the standard gauge (correctly set) shouldn't tell you all you need to know.

Do you have a part number for the correct sender? I purchased a series 3 electric gauge and a sender that was described as useful for both series 3 petrol and range rover v8. At normal operating temps, confirmed through my vdo gauge and a stand alone temp sensor, the series 3 electric gauge shows its the needle just in the red. I was going to put in a resistor to fudge the reading as I haven't been able to confirm the correct part number that I should be using.

[Sitec]

The issue is they've broken the capillary type sender... The military series type is the same, but not long enough to suit a 101. Tom has sent his off for repair, and then hopefully he'll be mobile!! :)

[DoubleChevron]

Why doesn't he fit up an "engine guardian" or similar .... That way he can keep track of the temperature until he sources a new sensor... He could always hide it out of site once the original temp gauge is working again, and just use it as an audible warning to check the temperature gauge.

Diesel Engine Overheating Control Alert Monitor Alarm | eBay

At least this gets you driving again! You also don't need to stuff around trying to modify aftermarket sensors to work. It just bolts to any bit of metal on the engine.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Do you have a part number for the correct sender?

leave it with me.

[grey_ghost]

Hi All,

Well after what felt like an eternity - I picked-up Harry last night...

Initial impressions on the 40 minute drive home - fantastic. The car is a lot quieter, it can now do 100kmh, cold start is instant, warm start a little harder, I actually used the HD head lights for the first time in anger - and I am very happy indeed.

The only minor concern - the oil temp gauge did not move off cold for the entire journey home. Yes it was a cool night (5c) but I would have thought that in 40 minutes, some temp would have shown up... I am going to check and make sure that it was re-connected during the engine replacement...

Here is a summary of the work that was carried out:
* Replace head gaskets
* Replace rear main seal
* Replace valley gaskets
* Replace exhaust gaskets
* Replace thermostat
* Radiator clean - 50% blocked
* Install new engine
* Install new water pump, viscous fan, pulley, fan blade
* Install new HTC leads, spark plugs, coil
* Both carbies leaking fuel - needles bent. Replaced all gaskets, fuel needle, main jet & needle.
* Fitted new kick down cable - new brackets & linkages fabricated.
* Repair temp gauge & capillary & re-calibrate

Sitec - here is a picture of the head gaskets that they replaced:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/101%20Land%20Rover/IMG_4252_zps33558517.jpg

I have only driven the car briefly (40 minutes) but apart from there appearing to be no oil temp - I am very happy with how it drives.

Much quieter. Sounds nicer from the outside. Kick back cable works well (now the Mrs can drive it without having to worry about manually changing down).

Onwards and upwards!!

[grey_ghost]

Hi Sitec / Gav,

Small update - I rang the mechanic to say: "Well the car drove well, the only thing that I noticed was that the oil temp gauge wasn't working?"

The mechanic said: "No it doesn't - you will need to get some special cables made up for the 3.9, because the ones on the 3.5 don't fit"

So that answers that question... But it then poses the next question - what to do about it?

[PhilipA]

The head gaskets were leaking into the valley.
I hope you told the mechanic not to tension up the outer row of bolts, but just do them to say 25Ft lbs, as it is their tension that puls the outside down and lifts the inside. That is why they deleted the 5th bolt on later heads.

Regards Philip A

[Brute]

The original oil temp reads via a capillary tube with the sender in the top of the oil cooler. If the cooler is still fitted shouldn't matter what engine is in there.


Ian

[Mick_Marsh]

The mechanic said: "No it doesn't - you will need to get some special cables made up for the 3.9, because the ones on the 3.5 don't fit"

So that answers that question... But it then poses the next question - what to do about it?The oil temp gauge is a capillary type like the water temp gauge. It should be screwed into the oil cooler I think. Have a look to see if it's connected. It may be broken. Get the contact details of the instrument repairers from the mechanics. You may need them, I certainly do.

When is Gav paying a visit next?

[grey_ghost]

Hi Mick,

I am away for a week (starting tomorrow) so hopefully I will hook-up with Gav next weekend or the one after..

I won't get a chance to look over the oil cooler - but I certainly will as soon as I get back..

Thanks for the replies..

[Homestar]

Like the engine temp sender - the oil temp sender WAS working before you took it there - it is definately as mentioned - a capillery tube to the oil cooler - my guess is that have ****ed that as well....

[chazza]

The temp gauge has been sent to a company in Melbourne that can repair gauges. That's a 5-7 working day turn around.

,

I was collecting parts off a 2A on the weekend and one of the things it had was a Smiths water temperature gauge, with capillary tube.

My 82 year old mechanic friend told me that he repaired one once by drilling a hole in the bulb; filling the tube and bulb with ether; and then very quickly sealing the hole with soft-solder,

Cheers Charlie

[Mick_Marsh]

I was collecting parts off a 2A on the weekend and one of the things it had was a Smiths water temperature gauge, with capillary tube.

My 82 year old mechanic friend told me that he repaired one once by drilling a hole in the bulb; filling the tube and bulb with ether; and then very quickly sealing the hole with soft-solder,

Cheers Charlie
You can do that if you want the needle to move but calibrating it will give an accurate reading.

[chazza]

You can do that if you want the needle to move but calibrating it will give an accurate reading.

Good point!

I suppose there is some mechanical method of adjusting it inside the works?

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

Good point!

I suppose there is some mechanical method of adjusting it inside the works?

Cheers Charlie

When I opened my gauges (both water and oil temp) there didn't appear to be any mechanical adjustment possible? It may simply be a case of bending the needle into the right place??

I ended up with a new oil temp gauge from Cradocks, but will look to get my water temp gauge repaired after the 101 is on the road, in the mean time I have an electric series 3 gauge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/605.jpg

[Mick_Marsh]

From what I understand, they're calibrated by the quantity of ether put into the bulb.

[DasLandRoverMan]

I ended up with a new oil temp gauge from Cradocks, but will look to get my water temp gauge repaired after the 101 is on the road, in the mean time I have an electric series 3 gauge

Save yourself any grief and just stick with the electric one...

[grey_ghost]

Hi Guys,

I have been away this last week - but have now managed to have a look at the 101 in day light...

I believe the reason why the Oil Temp gauge isn't working is because.... Drum Roll..

The Oil Cooler is NOT connected - and as everybody on here has already pointed out, the Oil Temp Gauge feeds off the oil cooler... :o :eek:

My next batch of questions are:

Can I connect the oil cooler up to the 3.9 - and is it just a matter of longer cables OR perhaps a different thread on the engine side of the cables?

Next question - how dangerous is it to drive the 101 without an oil cooler? I have to assume that an oil cooler is required as part of the original design - so I think that I shuld limit my mileage to short trips until I get the oil cooler re-fitted.

Sitec - did you run this engine without an oil cooler?

I am going back to the mechanic on Monday to pickup the original engine - and will ask for all of the cables, etc left over from it.

Everyone - am I correct in thinking that I should re-fit the oil cooler?

Any advice, opinions are greatly appreciated..

[Homestar]

Hi mate, if at all possible, I would plumb the oil cooler back in. Not sure if the 3.9 oil pump has the holes drilled an tapped into it - I would imagine that's why they left it out. Grab all the old oil lines, fittings and old engine - someone may be able to confirm that the oil pumps may be able to be swapped and the cooler reinstated.

At this time of year, you are not going to miss it, but on a hot day you might.

So, how does it all go now anyway! Hoping it is back to its best.

Catch up soon - Gav

[bee utey]

The 3.5 in the 101 may have had a different thread for the oil filter, I don't know when they changed to 3/4 UNF across the board (late 70s?). You should able to use either the oil pump cover off the 3.5 or the actual adaptor and swap them onto the 3.9. Make sure you have the correct gasket on hand before you swap the pump cover, they're a critical thickness.

[Brute]

The 3.9 when fitted in the Rangy has a spacer plate under the filter that the oil cooler pipe work connects to. If yours has the original 101 upside down filter housing fitted you could replace it with the rangy one and fit a remote filter as I have done plumbing in the cooler too. If it has the original 3.9 filter housing with filter pointing down they have probably taken the oil cooler adaptor out to give more diff clearance

[DasLandRoverMan]

Unless the 3.9 is a Serpentine front end (which I'm quite sure it isn't) the 101 filter head will fit straight on, bolt lengths are different so you'll need to use the original bolts for the 101 filter head, but it keeps things pretty standard.

If you've got the filter head off the engine then check the face that goes against the gears for wear, and smooth it flat with some wet and dry on a surface table. Wear on the face of the filter head will cause low oil pressure.

[Sitec]

Sitec - did you run this engine without an oil cooler?

Yup! One of the things missing when I received mine was the upturned filter housing and the oil cooler! The original engine came with it but alas no pump housing or oil cooler. My oil temp gauge had also been introduced to the side cutters when the running (but scrap) engine it came with was fitted.... so, yes it ran without an oil cooler. Most V8's do.. I've never owned a 101 with a cooler fitted.