LED load equaliser for D4

[Duke4]

Hi guys,


I recently had to replace my lights on my boat trailer and decided to go with LEDs, as we know the issue then is the D4 not recognizing that there is a trailer connected so looking around I could buy a load equalizer for over $200 or throw in a globe along the indicator circuit, that would be ok for my trailer but not when I need to connect some one else's trailer, we have an Ultimate camper booked for hire in October and then thinking of hiring a Jayco at Christmas both have LEDs. I didn't want to spend $200+ so trolled the internet and decide to make my own.


This is what I did you just need basic soldering skills and for $62.30 you can make your own.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=81414&stc=1&d=1406870504


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=81419&stc=1&d=1406870798


The bits needed are
7 pin large round trailer plug $12.99
7 pin flat trailer socket $13.78
1 Narva 21W 12V LED load resistor $13.49
Die cast box $14.95
1 meter 7 core trailer cable $6.49
2 3amp diodes 60 cents


The wiring diagram is as per the pic below, thanks to Bareass Choppers that's where I found this, instead of using 2 resistors I just used 1 Narva LED load resistor wiring one end into the earth wire and connecting the other end to the two diodes and then to each of the indicator circuits


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=81420&stc=1&d=1406872295

[Duke4]

So, connecting the plugs just follow the instructions with the pack.
I drilled 2 holes in the die cast box, inserted grommets and fed the cable through,then cut open the insulation on the white (earth), yellow (left turn) green (right turn)


I soldered one end of the resistor to the white earth and attached the 2 diodes to the other end. Then soldered one diode to the green and one to the yellow (as per the diagram.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=81422&stc=1&d=1406872729


I attached the resistor to the lid of the box, then used heat shrink and tape to protect the joins


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=81424&stc=1&d=1406872847


Then sealed everything up and attached a strap so I can attach to my trailer when in use


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=81425&stc=1&d=1406872949


It all works great


regards Paul

[LandyAndy]

Both my camper trailer and boat run LED lights,hasnt been an issue with the D2.Am I going to have issues with the D4????
Thankfully we just employed a new spannerman who is also an auto sparky:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

[Duke4]

The lights on your trailer will work fine, the D4 won't know it's there and therefore your reverse sensors will go off when in reverse, trailer stability control won't be active and it won't change the gearbox mode.

To fix it you need to have load from your trailer equivalent to a regular globe which is 21 watts.

[ADMIRAL]

Both my camper trailer and boat run LED lights,hasnt been an issue with the D2.Am I going to have issues with the D4????
Thankfully we just employed a new spannerman who is also an auto sparky:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

The D4 has LED's of it's own, and you won't have any dramas running the trailers with LED's. However, if you want to have the D4 auto disable the reversing sensors, ( actually not sure if you need a resistor for the reversing sensors to deactivate ) and enable trailer assist, you do need to put a resistor on one indicator circuit. The Narva version is only $13 -14.00, and as they get bloody hot, you do need to mount them on something metal. I have put one on my van A Frame, well under the van. I picked up the wires to an indicator, soldered it in, and all is good. You only need the resistor on one circuit. It will mean the trailer icon will not illuminate on the other indicator, but all the functions will work correctly. The trailer assist is a 'latching circuit' ( thanks Gordon ) and the D4 will sense the resistance from the one indicator at start up, and then enable trailer assist.

[isuzurover]

Couldn't you just change the sensitivity of the d4?

[CraigE]

Couldn't you just change the sensitivity of the d4?
Rehashing this topic. Making a separate lead seems a bit extreme. Have to remember to take the lead or if wired onto individual trailers doesnt resolve when using other trailers etc. Surely if you put a resistor in the car wiring somewhere it should resolve this? Had to do similar with the Defender.

[101RRS]

Just carry the LED box in the car and plug in when required - mine lives with my tow bar and other towing stuff in a shopping bag under the back seat - along with spare globes, jumper leads, tyre repair plugs etc. Easy peasy.

[imaz]

The lights on your trailer will work fine, the D4 won't know it's there and therefore your reverse sensors will go off when in reverse, trailer stability control won't be active and it won't change the gearbox mode.

To fix it you need to have load from your trailer equivalent to a regular globe which is 21 watts.

That is interesting, I seem to have an issue with the symptoms mentioned. Is the car that dumb to need this hack? The D4 already has led tail lights to begin with.

I might need to give this a go as it’s not the pleasant to tow.