Squeek,Squeek

[daf11e]

I have a very loud squeek when I turn the steering wheel clockwise. Sounds like it's coming from the draglink joint on the passenger side. My question is can I change this without removing the whole drag link? Never having done anything like this before is there any traps I should prepare for?

[benji]

I don't think it's possible to change just the ball joint . A very wise decision by Mr Lr.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[daf11e]

Thanks benji the reason I asked is the other end (drivers) looked new.....oh well I'll replace the whole thing.
Is it just off and on?

[Hoges]

Are you really sure it's the drag link???? Could it be a belt squeal when pressure is put on the steering pump? From the photo the boot on the drag link looks to be intact... If it is intact means the ball joint is probably still properly lubricated and functioning...I'd be very surprised it is causing the squeak...

One way you could check is to put the vehicle front axle up on jack stands, ensure the front wheels have adequate clearance and start the engine. DO NOT TOUCH THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTER!!!

Move the steering wheel back and forth and listen for the noise...may help to have the bonnet open. Get someone you can trust to move the steering wheel and you stand beside the vehicle and see if you can pinpoint the noise...
Let us know what you find?

[daf11e]

Hodges I have had the wife move the steering wheel while I was under the front with a stethoscope and it is certainly squeeking from that joint the loudest. The others are slight but the top of that ball joint is definitely squeeking.

[mtb_gary]

daf11e

You could also disconnect the drag link then whist up on axle stands turn the wheels by hand to verify the mouse has gone. Just as a test before forking out the $$.

Gary

[daf11e]

This photo may be better

[daf11e]

Gary I gather you mean to turn as in steering not rotate?

[mtb_gary]

Correct.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Just looked at the picture.....it's due for replacing

Gary

[Hoges]

yep, pic says it all... time for change.

ps there's no "d" in "Hoges";)

pps: part number is QEK000040 "drag link (long)" the other end is replaceable. You can buy a new one for between A$80 and $115 (incl GST) locally.

[daf11e]

My apologies hoges thanks.....the lamforder part comes in at $168, I guess it's best to get genuine for this part.

[daf11e]

Hoges is the $115 dollar one available locally in Sydney ?

[Hoges]

Hoges is the $115 dollar one available locally in Sydney ?

Try Karcraft (02 9737 9944) at Silverwater (9 Egerton St) (ask for Tim). The $115 is a guess, it may be a couple of $ less ...based it on my 2 yr old price list from Karcraft where it is listed for $108 for <A>class version. An<A> class part means it's genuine or obtained from the genuine supplier to LR. An aftermarket version is also listed as a "<C>" part for $78. I replaced mine (from Karcraft) about 18m ago with the <A> version.

I had previously asked them to email me a price list...very handy to cross reference with an online LR Microcat for part numbers etc

[daf11e]

Thanks again hoges I'll contact them tomorrow and let you know:)

[TheTree]

You can in fact replace one end either the short or the long one with the rod.

If the one on the other end looks new it may have been replaced without doing the other end.

That said it's always better to change the entire thing

Steve

[daf11e]

Well, went to Karcraft Silverwater today and picked up the new lemforder drag link $164.90.(thought best to change it all rather than just the large end)....many thanks to hoges . FYI these guys are wholesalers and sell to suppliers, for example the list price on this part is $316.58. The price list is a 300 page PDF accessible on line......Now to work, I am assuming it is jack, stands and old off on new , also checking length.

[TheTree]

Pretty easy job; you only left out the trip to the wheel aligners :p

Seriously you will never get your toe in correct unless you get it done professionally.

The only thing which can be adjusted on the P38 is the toe in, but they can give you a report on the rest of the steering geometry

Steve

[daf11e]

Will do Steve, thanks

[Hoges]

FWIW: When you remove the drag link, just "drop" it straight down at both ends and don't twist it. Lay the link on a flat surface between two pieces of solid wood and clamp the wood in place such that the drag link is a snug fit between them. Carefully slide the old link out and then adjust the new drag link such that it sits/ slides between the wooden markers with no end play. Tighten it up and recheck. This way you should be able to replicate the length within a mm. Now refit and get the alignment checked. Doing it this way means that you won't be running a wildly different toe-in/out from original before you get it checked.
cheers

[daf11e]

Grateful for the tips hoges........again

[daf11e]

All done, not a big job.....thanks to all.....now off for alignment.

[mtb_gary]

And the squeak has gone?

Gary

[daf11e]

Yes mate all. Gone!