td5 hard starting issue

[lyonsy]

having starting issues with my d2a where i am having to prime the fuel system to get it started.
nanocom is showing no codes and reads rpm when cranking
there is very little cat noise when priming
but willcrank and crank with no life like it has no fuel, prime the system and it normaly starts first kick.
its only done 2000km since the filter was changed
it has also been running rough at high load at low rpm and lacking power.
iam thinking its the fuel pump any other possibility's
does the the td5 have an inline fuel pressure regulator to hold rail pressure and do they fail?
thanks
mark

[warren9981]

Can't help with your problem but the TD5 has a FPR and they can leak. In my experience this didn't prevent the vehicle starting or running, but did use more fuel as it leaked out.
Have you checked the fuel hose near the tank where it runs over the chassis?
I believe they can rub through. If this happens you could be getting air into the system.

[hans]

Replace the air bleed valve at the fuel filter
Had the same problem on my defa td5 110
Hope it works for you

[LR1979]

Check fuel pump, injector seals and copper washers.

[Tins]

Mine had the FPR leak. Never caused it to not start, but was slow. Minor leak. Since I fixed it it starts instantly, hot or cold. Well, instantly after I press the unlock button on the fob. Never used to need to do that. I blame Adrian. Lol.

[Tins]

h
does the the td5 have an inline fuel pressure regulator to hold rail pressure and do they fail?
thanks
mark

Yes. It's under the inlet manifold.

Here is a useful link: www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop / Fuel Pressure Regulator (http://discovery2.co.uk/Fpr.html)

[LandyAndy]

I had the same issue with my D2 TD5.I replaced the air bleed valve just before selling it.There was some improvement,but I was unsure if the issue was resolved.
I did buy a new fuel pressure reg of Ebay that went with the vehicle,probably the root issue.
Search Ebay,you can buy the seperate regulator and fitting kit,MUCH cheaper than a OEM FPR.
Andrew

[Tins]

I
Search Ebay,you can buy the seperate regulator and fitting kit,MUCH cheaper than a OEM FPR.
Andrew

That's where mine came from. Came with everything. Cheap as.

[Tank]

having starting issues with my d2a where i am having to prime the fuel system to get it started.
nanocom is showing no codes and reads rpm when cranking
there is very little cat noise when priming
but willcrank and crank with no life like it has no fuel, prime the system and it normaly starts first kick.
its only done 2000km since the filter was changed
it has also been running rough at high load at low rpm and lacking power.
iam thinking its the fuel pump any other possibility's
does the the td5 have an inline fuel pressure regulator to hold rail pressure and do they fail?
thanks
mark
You may have to replace the "O" rings and copper washer seals on the Fuel Injectors, when they leak you end up with air bubbles in the injector, causing your symptoms, Regards Frank.

[DiscoDB]

Had same symptoms which turned out to be the injector washers. Took me less than an hour of research to find the solution, four days to convince the diesel injection servicing workshop to stop trying to find other causes and just replace the washers.

But also had most of the other potential causes as well at different points in time.....fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, bleed valve, cracked fuel line.....so if they have not failed yet it is only a matter of time.

[mfc]

Replace the air bleed valve at the fuel filter
Had the same problem on my defa td5 110
Hope it works for you


Hi I'm thinking I have the same problem.... Is there only the one filter on the line back to the tank?
Cheers mark

[hans]

Yes mark
On one filter
Still haven't had the problem since I replace the valve
Cheers

[sierrafery]

There is a small filter in the head under the FPR too, worth a check if the FPR is removed anyway... it's enough to be cleaned with gasoline or something no need for new one, usually it's clean but i saw a case when it was clogged and took ages to be diagnosed, nobody thought to it untill all the other things were ruled out, nr 5 in the link Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile f?r LAND ROVER & MG ROVER (http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=816507&SPRACHE=EN)

[bsperka]

There is a small filter in the head under the FPR too, worth a check if the FPR is removed anyway... it's enough to be cleaned with gasoline or something no need for new one, usually it's clean but i saw a case when it was clogged and took ages to be diagnosed, nobody thought to it untill all the other things were ruled out, nr 5 in the link Allbrit.de - Ersatzteile f?r LAND ROVER & MG ROVER (http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=816507&SPRACHE=EN)

Where do you get gasoline from to clean the filter? Gasoline was actually a brand in the same way that Vaseline is a brand name for petroleum jelly. Btw: safer to use kerosene as a cleaner.

[bob10]

Had same symptoms which turned out to be the injector washers. Took me less than an hour of research to find the solution, four days to convince the diesel injection servicing workshop to stop trying to find other causes and just replace the washers.

But also had most of the other potential causes as well at different points in time.....fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, bleed valve, cracked fuel line.....so if they have not failed yet it is only a matter of time.


I'm sorry, I do not agree.384,000 km's, none of those problems on my TD5. I feel the problem is probably injector seals. There are two, one rubber O ring , injector to cylinder head, + a copper washer sealing the injector tip to the head. If either fail, it would show up as poor starting or poor running. , or ....... a noisy fuel pump working much harder to take air out of the system..... ;) Bob

[bob10]

Just a thought, sometimes leaking injector seals will allow diesel into the engine oil. if you notice a rise in your oil, or a diesel smell on the dipstick, an oil & filter change is necessary. All 5 sets of injector seals should be changed. You can do it your self, take your time, study RAVE, just remember, cleanliness is everything. Also, if the injector is badly carboned up, and some falls into the cylinder, the head must come off. The LR official injector removal tool no. is LRT12-154-1, a sliding hammer. You can make your own, out of a large allen key filed down to a 6mm point . If carbon buildup sticks the injector in its seat, be careful, with the home made tool it is possible to damage the head, if you get butch.


Very important to remember each injector has a unique code , and must go back into the cylinder it came out of, or you will have to recode them to the vehicle after refitting. I recommend if you are putting the vehicle out to trade repair, select an experienced L.R. workshop. Bob

[furianer]

We replace quite a lot of stater motor solenoids.
If worn, starter draws to much current, wich in turn leaves not enough for the ECU to operate.

results in cranking, but hard or not starting

Cheap and easy to fix

Richard