Essential D3 D4 RRS travelling spares

[LandyAndy]

Hi Guys.
Thought I would start a sticky thread on what you believe are essential travelers spares for the D3 D4 RRS.
At Gordons GEO seminar he says carry at a minimum.
Wheel speed sensors.
Height sensors.
Airline repair kit.
Please add what you guys carry and what you belive we should be carrying on an extended tour.
Cheers
Andrew

[~Rich~]

Alternate Jack.

Fault Code Reader / Clearer.
Multimeter.

[Ferret]

Alternate Jack.

Yes but, (words of wisdom from Gordon again) always carry the OEM jack too because there is almost nothing else that will get under a D3 / D4 if the suspension has dropped on it's bum. The crappy scissor jack is needed to raise the vehicle enough to get a proper jack under it.

[Disco W.A]

Thanks Andrew,

This thread is a good idea.

Part numbers would be a big help as well.

[shorty]

I'd add in - brake light switch, a few bulbs for brake / reverse and park lights and a few fuses. They don't cost much or weigh much but could very well be useful.

If car is older and hasn't had water outlet housing or the larger turbo hose changed these might also be a good idea.

And a fault code reader which I still haven't got around to getting....

[Graeme]

Spare rear suspension link rod bolts RYG501580.

[Geedublya]

I have in my kit the following:

2 x suspension sensors with rods (front and rear)

1 x brake switch

2 x suspension link bolts (on order waiting for them to arrive), need to add a left hand drill bit and carry a battery drill when travelling.

I also carry a breaker bar and socket for the wheel nuts.

I will add an IID Tool, GOE emergency air kit and wheel speed sensors.

I only carry the brake switch and suspension sensors day to day and the rest when I travel.

[winaje]

Thanks for the thread.

It would be extremely helpful if part numbers could be provided as well...

[Redback]

I carry;

Spare air filter

wheel speed sensors F & R

Faultmate and laptop

Height sensor and rod

6th spare wheel on long trips

Rear suspension link rod bolts (RYG501580)

[Geedublya]

Thanks for the thread.

It would be extremely helpful if part numbers could be provided as well...

Some of the part numbers are dependent on model and Vin.

Brake switch is XKB50110.

Suspension sensors are Vin dependent. Try Landrover Parts Catalog (http://lrparts.net.ru) for part numbers

[BobD]

I carry the same stuff as everyone else, except the jack. I have not had to use any of it on several very remote trips but have destroyed 3 tyres on my trips, only one at a time, even though I carry 2 spares. On each occasion I have used the standard jack with no problems. I use a trolley jack at home, though.


Bob

[Redback]

I carry the same stuff as everyone else, except the jack. I have not had to use any of it on several very remote trips but have destroyed 3 tyres on my trips, only one at a time, even though I carry 2 spares. On each occasion I have used the standard jack with no problems. I use a trolley jack at home, though.


Bob

I look at it this way, if you're on the bump stops out in the middle of nowhere, changing a flat is the least of your worries, a long handle shovel solves that issue.

There are certain items that should always be taken away with you, a long handle shovel is one of those items.

Baz.

[baldivistribe]

Hello
Most important bit in our kit is a spare fuse for the engel fridge.
Just using a normal fuse as I blew the fancy engel one.
Cheers
Steve

[josh.huber]

I drive day to day in our car with a cheap obd reader from eBay with a handheld screen. The original ride rods,goe ones are on the car, a full fuse kit. Hamer shifter multimeter electrical tape, duct tape (the fabric type) 22mm socket and bar for wheel nuts (bent the stock one undoing wheels one time) have ordered another brake light switch and will order the rest mentioned great thread

[Graeme]

I drive day to day in our car with a cheap obd reader from eBay with a handheld screen.Can it read ecus other than just the engine? Knowing which suspension fault is occurring can be very useful.

[josh.huber]

Nah it's just a generic engine one $20 inc postage

[josh.huber]

I have a faultmate but I haven't registered it yet can't afford it at the moment was sold to me with s multi vin license turned up as a single license

[zilch]

surely it depends on the journey, a long stretch to remote area's means a few extra goodies, some LR dealerships will do it on Sale or Return, like:

Set of belts
Set of Turbo Hoses
Set of Radiator hoses
Bulbs and Fuses
Emergency Air Up system from GOE.. i carry rather than fitted just in case

[TerryO]

I don't trust jacks, any of them, so I recently brought a fairly lightweight adjustable height axle stand which is far more stable than a jack incase your going to have to do surgery under the vehicle rather than just changing wheels.

[Graeme]

I don't trust jacks, any of them,Rightly so! I put a wheel under the chassis if no stand on hand.

[samandfee]

Hi Guys

For WA guys, Nick the parts manager at Southern Landrover cannington, has told me today they would put a load of spares together they considered D4 essential for remote travel on a Use or return basis.

These parts below were from Duckworths UK

Brake light switch XKB500110 UK POUNDS 18.00
speed sensors front LR013783 """""41.00 each
speed sensors rear SSB500102 """"77.00 each


These prices quoted yesterday from Duckworths UK...Oh and 20 UK pounds for P&P

Cheers

Sam:)

[shanegtr]

Hi Guys

For WA guys, Nick the parts manager at Southern Landrover cannington, has told me today they would put a load of spares together they considered D4 essential for remote travel on a Use or return basis.

These parts below were from Duckworths UK

Brake light switch XKB500110 UK POUNDS 18.00
speed sensors front LR013783 """""41.00 each
speed sensors rear SSB500102 """"77.00 each


These prices quoted yesterday from Duckworths UK...Oh and 20 UK pounds for P&P

Cheers

Sam:)
Hope they do a similar kit for the D3, but I'd most likely jsut buy all the parts - I travel around often enough just to hang onto them, plus I can be bothered driving the distance to pick up and return every time I would need them

[Ferret]

For WA guys, Nick the parts manager at Southern Landrover cannington, has told me today they would put a load of spares together they considered D4 essential for remote travel on a Use or return basis.

Thanks, very helpful.

[Wheelan]

This is great idea, can I ask though, what happens when the following fail -



speed sensor
height sensor
brake light switch

Also, the suspension bolts, are these prone to failing?
So far tyres have been the main issue for me, staked 2 at once last VIc desert trip. 8 tyre plugs in the sidewall held for 120 kms offroad though, that surprised me.

[Graeme]

A dead wheel speed sensor disables all functions that rely on knowing how quickly or slowly a wheel is turning, ie HDC, TC, ABS, stability control and the suspenion ecu will lower the vehicle to about access height because of a brake system fault.

1 faulty height sensor disables fine-tuning of the suspension but 2 dead sensors will cause the vehicle to drop to the bump-stops.

The suspension bolts seem to randomly break which leaves the vehicle stranded on the spot. There is a possible link to a rear wheel alignment having been done and that bolt loosened but not replaced with a new one with thread locker or thread locker not applied to the retightened one and the bolt possibly working loose which allows it to flex and eventually snap.

A faulty brake light switch can cause a multitude of faults including a brake system fault which triggers the lowering of the suspension to its safe height.

[snapperhead]

Hi Redback,

What is the use/purpose of wheel speed sensors?

Cheers
SnapperHead

[LandyAndy]

Hi Redback,

What is the use/purpose of wheel speed sensors?

Cheers
SnapperHead

The Terrain Response will not work when they drop out.
Andrew

[shanegtr]

Or the ABS, TC, HDC, DSC etc.....

[Mungus]

Hi Redback,

What is the use/purpose of wheel speed sensors?

Cheers
SnapperHead



The wheel speed sensor is a coil that measures an individual wheel speed by providing an electrical sine wave signal created as a toothed cog (usually part of the wheel hub) rotates past it. In most cars it forms part of the ABS system to detect wheel lock etc.. Had one go in my commodore last year. ABS fault light was the only indication. In our cars I imagine the signal from each wheel would be used for many system functions. ABS, HDC, Traction Control, Terrain Response etc... as mentioned above. As all these systems rely in some part on these little coil pick ups, I think this is a definite for the spares list. Would never have thought of it myself.

[zilch]

Or the ABS, TC, HDC, DSC etc.....

If you check my posting on the rrsport.co.uk site, this shows the output of a faulty speed sensor, effectively it took the vehicle off road for a period 2 weeks, 5 days after delivery..

RRSPORT.CO.UK • View topic - only two weeks old and problems (http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/post282208.html#282208)

Dash turns into a xmas tree light fest

[mitchE39]

A complete breakdown of all acronyms

[Graeme]

If you check my posting on the rrsport.co.uk site, this shows the output of a faulty speed sensor, effectively it took the vehicle off road for a period 2 weeks, 5 days after delivery.. With the wheel speed sensors at the heart of all those systems and the expectation that a fault would have been stored in the ABS ecu, the cause should have been determined at the first visit to the dealer.

None of those faults would have stranded the vehicle in a remote area unless the terrain necessitated diff locking or TC operational, such as sand or mud. The suspension system's normal or off-road heights could have been selected then the appropriate fuses removed to prevent lowering.

[Graeme]

A complete breakdown of all acronyms
Good one! :BigThumb:

[zilch]

None of those faults would have stranded the vehicle in a remote area unless the terrain necessitated diff locking or TC operational, such as sand or mud.

granted, but I would think again about taking it further when LR had zero idea at the time what had caused the problem, and follow my post, LR wanted to use my vehicle as a platform to find out if it was more generic fault, they were clueless at the time. so what option when you are say halfway to the Cape.. would you take the chance??

[Graeme]

No I wouldn't have keep heading to the Cape because lack of TC combined with lack of the articulation of live axle vehicles could have made for "interesting" driving. However the nearest LR dealer should have been able to quickly identify the cause by the combination of the stored faults and the dependence of the other systems on the wheel speed sensors. "Clueless" seems appropriate.

[IvanR]

Apart from tyres, the other thing prone to damage on rough tracks are the drive shaft boots (sticks etc). I now carry metho and RTV silicone (eg Loctite bluemax) to carry out tempory repairs. Oh and it works if cut not too big.

Ivan

[LRD414]

This may be useful to later model D4 owners. I think the suspension height sensors are VIN dependent. I had all these checked/confirmed by a Land Rover dealer service manager against my VIN.

Front Wheel Speed Sensor - LR013783
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor - SSB500102
Suspension Height Sensor (front) - LR023646
Suspension Height Sensor (rear) - LR023648
Brake Light Switch - XKB500110
Rear Suspension Link Rod Bolt (5 off) - RYG501580
Air Filter - PHE000112

The reference to "5 off" suspension bolts is from LRDirect website description. I haven't actually purchased any of these yet so can't confirm the bolt set.

Rough pricing comparison is about $700 from dealer versus about $600 from UK (e.g. LRDirect) but that depends on which supplier or maker you select on the UK site.

Cheers,
Scott

[Geedublya]

This may be useful to later model D4 owners. I think the suspension height sensors are VIN dependent. I had all these checked/confirmed by a Land Rover dealer service manager against my VIN.

Front Wheel Speed Sensor - LR013783
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor - SSB500102
Suspension Height Sensor (front) - LR023646
Suspension Height Sensor (rear) - LR023648
Brake Light Switch - XKB500110
Rear Suspension Link Rod Bolt (5 off) - RYG501580
Air Filter - PHE000112

The reference to "5 off" suspension bolts is from LRDirect website description. I haven't actually purchased any of these yet so can't confirm the bolt set.

Rough pricing comparison is about $700 from dealer versus about $600 from UK (e.g. LRDirect) but that depends on which supplier or maker you select on the UK site.

Cheers,
Scott

Yes the rear suspension link bolts come in a pack of 5.

[Discoagogo]

I've found I can solve most issues with the IID tool and my MasterCard

[Graeme]

Yes the rear suspension link bolts come in a pack of 5.They can be bought singly - I only bought 2.

[LRD414]

I have Llams fitted to the D4 and I will be purchasing spare suspension sensors, along with speed sensors, brake switch, etc.

However, I am wondering if it is worth getting suspension sensor rods as travelling spares, in addition to the spare sensors themselves?

Some people have mentioned carrying spare rods because they have GOE and kept the OEM ones but because I have Llams, I don't currently have this redundancy.

Thoughts?

Cheers,
Scott

[Graeme]

Unplugging Llams provides the same redundancy as carrying standard rods when using non-standard rods.

[LRD414]

Graeme, agreed but I'm not concerned about Llams reliability. Rather, should I be concerned about damaged or broken rods & therefore have spares.

[Graeme]

I've not heard of any rods breaking, original or otherwise, so would not carry spares myself. A different story with the early home-shortened original rods that people made-up which break at the join.

[Graeme]

For older 3.0s a spare secondary turbo isolation valve solenoid (LR021929) could be warranted as it can fail which then triggers restricted performance and no secondary turbo. The EPC shows this part only applicable to vin AA546302 with LR029417 for later vehicles.

[vbrab]

Hi Graeme, "unplugging Lams', what is that? where do I find that plug?
I live/drive remote, haven't considered spare rods, but if I break one, does this help?

[LRD414]

Have a read here for all details on Llams, which is an aftermarket suspension height control module:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/114282-llams-electronic-height-controller-d3-d4-rrs.html

The system is unrelated to the rods.

Scott

[Reddahaydn]

for those of us with LLAMS, I have found that if the suspension has lowered due to a HDC/ABS fault (and I am also assuming speed sensor error or height sensor error) all you need to do is turn your LLAMS up to full height and that will raise your vehicle back up to normal height.


(note that I found the cause of all my faults that causes suspension lowering to be the steering wheel being out of alignment with the way the car drove - so I carry a Nanocom that I believe will reset the steering angle if I am out in the sticks and knock it that far out of alignment - haven't really had a chance to play with it to confirm).


will the arb air line repair kit suit? or is it different air lines?

[Graeme]

Furthermore, unless you still have a very early Llams module that didn't get the recovery option added in which case contact me to get it updated, pressing the button switch whilst at the high setting temporarily (until low is selected) converts medium to normal height and high to off-road height.

[LRD414]

IIRC the air lines are a difficult to source higher spec. Gordon resolved that problem by putting together the GOE emergency air kits.

[Drizzle]

We returned from the Cape a few days ago where we had two punctures. Our D3 is fitted with OEM size 255/60R18 tyres which we were quoted at a week to get replacements shipped in to Cairns. Fortuitously, we carried a second spare so were able to continue on gingerly with no further spare.

If travelling to remote areas I would highly recommend changing to 17" wheels if possible, or 265/60R18's which although still nearly 'unobtainable' status in the outback, they is a slightly better chance of getting one quicker due to becoming more common on the higher end models of other makes. The 265/60R18 sizes were available in Cairns but were nowhere to be found anywhere further north.

On realising I had 18" wheels fitted, the tyre fitter in Bamaga quipped he might be able to track down commodore tyre that might fit...

[Tombie]

We returned from the Cape a few days ago where we had two punctures. Our D3 is fitted with OEM size 255/60R18 tyres which we were quoted at a week to get replacements shipped in to Cairns. Fortuitously, we carried a second spare so were able to continue on gingerly with no further spare.

If travelling to remote areas I would highly recommend changing to 17" wheels if possible, or 265/60R18's which although still nearly 'unobtainable' status in the outback, they is a slightly better chance of getting one quicker due to becoming more common on the higher end models of other makes. The 265/60R18 sizes were available in Cairns but were nowhere to be found anywhere further north.

On realising I had 18" wheels fitted, the tyre fitter in Bamaga quipped he might be able to track down commodore tyre that might fit...

Cant even get 17" spares in many places now - just freighted in as required...

[Tombie]

And Drizzle.. Hope you had a great trip... Throw up a post and some pics if you can!!!

[Drizzle]

We had an awesome experience. Travelled the entire length of the old telegraph track. I'll write up a full post soon [emoji6]

9651596516

[scarry]

Not many places as good as the Cape:)

Back to tyres,265/60/18 is available in LT,in Bridgestones,or the soon to arrive BFG KO2.

Running these tyres you will have a much better chance of no tyre trouble,and staying with 18's.The 265/60/18 is almost exactly the same diameter as the OEM size,so it will suit the vehicle well.

Running these tyres you won't have to worry about availability.:)

The 265/60/18 is also OEM size on Prado,Pajero,etc.

[davutch]

hey good thread is anyone buying the non genuine products to carry as spares

[Briar]

Top idea for a thread.

My query here relates to what as I perceive as my lack of skill in installing the spares as needed should I be in a remote area. Formerly I had a Landcruiser HJ47 which went everywhere and I did all general repairs and servicing to it including brakes, axles, filters, exhaust, suspension, etc. I'm not a mechanic but I am not an idiot.

However, now having the D4 and slowly getting it fitted for more extensive trips I feel a bit daunted at what do do or where things go. I bought it because it's a fantastic vehicle but have no illusions about how to repair or fix up something if I was in the middle of the Simpson.

I understand the list of spares and why needed but I'd like to get the skill in fixing or repairing some of these things, such as sensors or fan belts, or fault finding. Replacing the fan belt on the old troopie was a piece of cake, I feel a bit overwhelmed with the D4 with what should be a simple task. Getting these spares is the first step. Knowing how to replace them in the bush on your own is just as important.

Ae there any gatherings, club meetings, tutorials, guides, etc that can teach these skills in Sydney. I don't expect something for nothing but was wondering if any Discovery expert ran sessions on such basic troubleshooting skills with some kind of instructional evenings for instance? I'd like to know how to identify that a wheel sensor has carked it and know how to replace it in the bush if needed. How do I obtain such skills? It's always much more informative to be shown where something is and how to fix it rather than try to glean the necessary info from this forum or elsewhere.

Thanks
Trevor

[SBD4]

Top idea for a thread.

My query here relates to what as I perceive as my lack of skill in installing the spares as needed should I be in a remote area. Formerly I had a Landcruiser HJ47 which went everywhere and I did all general repairs and servicing to it including brakes, axles, filters, exhaust, suspension, etc. I'm not a mechanic but I am not an idiot.

However, now having the D4 and slowly getting it fitted for more extensive trips I feel a bit daunted at what do do or where things go. I bought it because it's a fantastic vehicle but have no illusions about how to repair or fix up something if I was in the middle of the Simpson.

I understand the list of spares and why needed but I'd like to get the skill in fixing or repairing some of these things, such as sensors or fan belts, or fault finding. Replacing the fan belt on the old troopie was a piece of cake, I feel a bit overwhelmed with the D4 with what should be a simple task. Getting these spares is the first step. Knowing how to replace them in the bush on your own is just as important.

Ae there any gatherings, club meetings, tutorials, guides, etc that can teach these skills in Sydney. I don't expect something for nothing but was wondering if any Discovery expert ran sessions on such basic troubleshooting skills with some kind of instructional evenings for instance? I'd like to know how to identify that a wheel sensor has carked it and know how to replace it in the bush if needed. How do I obtain such skills? It's always much more informative to be shown where something is and how to fix it rather than try to glean the necessary info from this forum or elsewhere.

Thanks
Trevor
Trevor, in addition to how-tos that various people have contributed on this site and also disoc3.co.uk, you could get hold of the workshop manual. This will have the procedure for everything. I believe you can get one one (on cd) from the shop on this site or certainly from ebay.

[Silver Anchor]

Coming from Karratha almost everything is bought in on order, no matter what it is you are after. We don't have much trouble getting most parts in 1-3 days ex Perth. I thought about our tyres but its no different than trying to get 16's for the work Rangers.
Adding to the list we have a Personal Epirb (Cost $259) for use if the need ever arises, something like 5 deaths in remote WA after breakdowns in the last 2 years

[samandfee]

Hi All,

This is just an update for the WA guys............Southern Landrover has a new parts manager named Jim Simpson.....Nick has obviously moved on.

I have spoken to Jim directly and the great offer of use or return is still valid on a selection of spares for remote travel.

I think this is a fantastic gesture from Southern Landrover in Cannington and great customer relations............Happy travels boys:D

Cheers Sam

[Andrewsg]

Thanks to everyone for their comments in this thread. My last 4wd was an HJ47 and I modified and repaired just about everything on that old girl myself. Now I have a D4 and its like learning all over again. The advice on this thread has been really helpful.

There have been a few mentions of having spares for the air suspension, and also mention of a GOE Emergency Air Kit.

I'm a bit worried about having an airline break, or an issue with the compressor resulting in the D4 sitting on its belly out in the bush somewhere.

Can anyone explain a a bit about this system that is helpful to know? Are there are common faults or bits that break? Is the system high pressure, or can it be repaired with a bit of hose and few cable ties in an emergency? Also what is the GEO Emergency Air Kit?

[l00kin4]

There have been a few mentions of having spares for the air suspension, and also mention of a GOE Emergency Air Kit.

Also what is the GOE Emergency Air Kit?

Hi,

Others here much better equipped to answer your other questions but you can find information on the GOE (Green Oval Experience) emergency kit on Gordon's (gghaggis on this forum) website: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!eas/cl9p)

I'd highly recommend ordering Gordon's Terrain Response booklet too - an absolute wealth of information: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!goe-offroad-booklet/c1okv)

David

[Ozzy119]

I would add manifold hose. A wise mechanic told me that is one essential part, so I threw a spare in. I didn't expect to be using it day one of our annual trip !!! Got warning lights and restricted performance message after climbing the tablelands. Sure enough the hose had slit on the top elbow, right were he said they do. Must have been the higher pressures of towing.

From now on I'll never go camping without one, that's for sure.

Now I need to get my hands on a load of those annoying body part clips, as the plastic guard under the wheel arch is currently being held in place with cable ties.

Any one know where to source those clips ?

[Stuart02]

I would add manifold hose. A wise mechanic told me that is one essential part, so I threw a spare in. I didn't expect to be using it day one of our annual trip !!! Got warning lights and restricted performance message after climbing the tablelands. Sure enough the hose had slit on the top elbow, right were he said they do. Must have been the higher pressures of towing.

From now on I'll never go camping without one, that's for sure.

Now I need to get my hands on a load of those annoying body part clips, as the plastic guard under the wheel arch is currently being held in place with cable ties.

Any one know where to source those clips ?

Do you reckon you could tape up a manifold hose and soldier on, or is there too much pressure?

[Graeme]

That's the standard fix for driving around until the new one arrives but getting up sand-hills might be a different story.

[Ozzy119]

Do you reckon you could tape up a manifold hose and soldier on, or is there too much pressure?

Tape got me to my destination that day. I fixed it the next. Its a difficult area to get much onto it and due to the heat and pressure it needed a few applications.

[Ean Austral]

The manifold hose you speak of is it for Petrol or Diesel models.

I haven't really had much of a look at my 2.7 tdv6 , but I have a set of hoses that go to/from the thermostat.

Cheers Ean

[jonesy63]

I suspect they mean the rubber intercooler hose on turbo diesels - which goes from the outlet of the intercooler up to the inlet manifold. Tape is a temporary fix. Replacing the rubber hose is a longer temporary fix. Replacing this hose with a silicone one is a permanent fix. :)

[sheerluck]

....I haven't really had much of a look at my 2.7 tdv6 , but I have a set of hoses that go to/from the thermostat.....

And an expensive set of hoses they are too. $600 plus, and a decent sized bundle it is. I wouldn't suggest anyone carrying that around as a spare.

[Ozzy119]

And an expensive set of hoses they are too. $600 plus, and a decent sized bundle it is. I wouldn't suggest anyone carrying that around as a spare.


It was less than $80 and not at all hard to store. Part number PNH500025. I cable tied mine to the top of the cargo barrier, but it would easily fit under the back of the middle row of seats. Easy fit once the driver side wheel guard was removed.

OP - its for a turbo diesel.

[sheerluck]

It was less than $80 and not at all hard to store. Part number PNH500025. I cable tied mine to the top of the cargo barrier, but it would easily fit under the back of the middle row of seats. Easy fit once the driver side wheel guard was removed.

OP - its for a turbo diesel.

Yes, that's the problematic intercooler to intake hose. Worth changing to a silicone hose to avoid future hassles. However, Ean was looking at the coolant hose and thermostat assembly (part number LR020009) that Land Rover in their wisdom sell as one part, and for the price of a small car.

[Ean Austral]

I put 2 of the 3 silicon hoses on as I couldn't work out how the hell you got to the short turbo hose.

For some strange I reason I still carry the 2 hoses I took off as emergency spares.

Cheers Ean

[sheerluck]

It's dead easy with the body off Ean. :lol2:

[samandfee]

Hi Guys

I stated in the previous post for WA guys, that Southern landrover cannington will let you take a box of remote travel spares on a purchase or return basis,well it is still the case but they do require a C/C number from you in the event you dont return them by a date you specify to them ie a couple of months down the track.
I picked mine up friday...........somewhere near $2500 i'm informed.
Regards
Sam:o

[Russrobe]

This may be useful to later model D4 owners. I think the suspension height sensors are VIN dependent. I had all these checked/confirmed by a Land Rover dealer service manager against my VIN.

Front Wheel Speed Sensor - LR013783
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor - SSB500102
Suspension Height Sensor (front) - LR023646
Suspension Height Sensor (rear) - LR023648
Brake Light Switch - XKB500110
Rear Suspension Link Rod Bolt (5 off) - RYG501580
Air Filter - PHE000112

The reference to "5 off" suspension bolts is from LRDirect website description. I haven't actually purchased any of these yet so can't confirm the bolt set.

Rough pricing comparison is about $700 from dealer versus about $600 from UK (e.g. LRDirect) but that depends on which supplier or maker you select on the UK site.

Cheers,
Scott

Hey Scott can you remember did you order 4 x height sensors and 4 x wheel speed sensors.

My quote for all of the above with the 2 sets of sensors is coming in around $940AUD plus delivery(another $150ish) direct from the UK. 1 only of each would bring it down by $422 to $518 though.

Looks like i'll have to try convince Southerns to lend me their box of goodies(my D4 came from Barbagallo, :angel:)

Although not a travelling spare, my door seals(body only) have worn through and they're not too badly priced from Duckworths.
LR044299 x 2 = ?98.59inc vat total
LR037755 x 2 = ?99.13inc vat total
= $330AUD

Unfortunately the dealer was double that price at $615=( Would be nice to be able to go get original parts for a decent price in Perth..

[Graeme]

Only 1 of each in the D4 is required.

[LRD414]

Only 1 of each in the D4 is required.
And that is all I purchased too.

Scott

[Tombie]

People really need to be more careful with seat belts and door seals when getting in and out of a vehicle.

(One of my pet hates)

[Russrobe]

People really need to be more careful with seat belts and door seals when getting in and out of a vehicle.

(One of my pet hates)
Yeah could have been seat belts on the drivers door. The right rear has definitely had a baby seat fitted for a prolonged time though and has worn through at the wheel arch curved area.

[Russrobe]

Added one set of rear wheel bearings and front hub assembly with bearing for GRR.

[Ean Austral]

I see that the D4 height sensors and wheel speed sensors are only 1 of each needed as spares , so I assume front fits either side and rear is the same. Does anyone know if the D3 is the same ? it seems they have different part numbers for LH / RH .


Cheers Ean

[Russrobe]

Hm i asked for 1x of each and didn't get a reply from Duckworths saying there was a Left and Right hand so I'm assuming they're the same.

Either way at $150ea i think it was i cant afford 4 lol.

[Graeme]

$150 for one of each is about the price ex UK although then add shipping.

[rhinosm]

Quote from Duckworths over night.

Front Wheel Speed Sensor - LR013783 £45.00
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor - SSB500102 £84.00
Suspension Height Sensor (front) - LR023646 £45.00
Suspension Height Sensor (rear) - LR023648 £56.00
Brake Light Switch - XKB500110 £14.00
Rear Suspension Link Rod Bolt (5 off) - RYG501580 £20.00
Air Filter - PHE000112 £18.00

Cost to Australia £58.00 via UPS

Around $570 AUD.

I'll get a quote locally today and compare.

[Russrobe]

I added a front and rear hub assembly (wheel bearings). Brought it in around $1000 delivered. Much much cheaper than the dealer.

Doesn't take up much room. I fit all my tools and above spares in a 50l transport case.

[Ean Austral]

I added a front and rear hub assembly (wheel bearings). Brought it in around $1000 delivered. Much much cheaper than the dealer.

Doesn't take up much room. I fit all my tools and above spares in a 50l transport case.

if you are carrying the hubs and bearings have you added a big enough breaker bar to undo the Hub nut . You could get away with not setting it to the correct tension to get you out of trouble , but it's a very tight nut and a 3/4 drive breaker bar would be needed.

Cheers Ean

[Russrobe]

if you are carrying the hubs and bearings have you added a big enough breaker bar to undo the Hub nut . You could get away with not setting it to the correct tension to get you out of trouble , but it's a very tight nut and a 3/4 drive breaker bar would be needed.

Cheers Ean
Yup have a half inch breaker.

Looks like a mission to hammer the hub off. Atleast I have the parts though.

[Ean Austral]

Yup have a half inch breaker.

Looks like a mission to hammer the hub off. Atleast I have the parts though.

Its not a hard job , and shouldn't need much hammering , Im not sure a half inch breaker will do the job, from memory its either a 27mm or 32mm socket and to get it to tension im pretty sure a half inch tension wrench doesn't go high enough , you need a 3/4 drive or bigger , the 3 I have done I have used a 1 inch drive tension wrench. You don't need to carry a tension wrench but a bigger drive breaker may be worth looking at to get you out of trouble.

just a thought if you need to change it on the side of the road or even in a van park, the chances of someone carrying a 3/4 drive bar would be slim - unless its another L/R owner [smilebigeye]


Cheers Ean

[Russrobe]

Hmm. If i snap a 1/2 inch drive I'm doing well... Can see where you're coming from though. Might sort out something for extra leverage.

[Ean Austral]

Hmm. If i snap a 1/2 inch drive I'm doing well... Can see where you're coming from though. Might sort out something for extra leverage.

from my expierence they don't break , they just flex and don't apply enough force to the nut to loosen it.

could be worth doing a practice run before you leave .

cheers Ean

[shanegtr]

Put more leverage on a 1/2" drive and you'll snap it easy enough - done it at work when I was to lazy to go and get my 3/4" gear from the workshop[biggrin]

[Russrobe]

Doesn't take up much room atleast. My entire spare parts and tools kit will fit inside a 50l case. Minus the 5l of oil.

Cardboard box on the left has all sensors listed plus Gordons air up kit. Suspension bolts. Hub assembly. Rear bearing. All in boxes.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/630.jpg

[Russrobe]

Does anybody carry the box type fuses that are behind the battery? I planned to have just an assortment of mini blade fuses from 5amp to 30amp.

Thankshttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/549.jpg

[Graeme]

Those are fusible links.

[Russrobe]

Those are fusible links.

Uh huh! Thanks Graeme. I remembered someone mentioning a larger fuse they carry for something.... Can't remember what it was though. Just remember it wasn't a cheap fuse so can't have been a normal blade...

Any you usually carry?

[trout1105]

A spare set of wheel studs and nuts is not a bad idea to have in the spares box [thumbsupbig]

[Tombie]

A spare set of wheel studs and nuts is not a bad idea to have in the spares box [thumbsupbig]

Not a lot of point.. almost impossible to change on the track and unlikely to fail...

A few spare wheel nuts aren’t a bad idea though!

[RANDLOVER]

I'd advise 14 inch/350 mm bolt cutter or 4 inch angle grinder to cut EPB handbrake cables at the wheels if it gets stuck on.

[shanegtr]

Interesting I havent seen anyone list a spare fuel filter. I'd rather carry one of those than a spare air filter (I've had my fuel filter clog and throw up a high fuel pressure fault)

[LRD414]

I agree Shane and always carry one on trips. Went back to the start of the thread and you’re right, although I’d swear I’d read it recommended. Must have been other threads.

Scott

[iannicki]

The suspension system's normal or off-road heights could have been selected then the appropriate fuses removed to prevent lowering.

Graeme, is it easy to work out which are the fuses to remove? Should I have a poke around first before asking or will it not be clear which fuses are in the gun sights?

thanks, Ian

[iannicki]

Of course, the spares are no good without a tool kit.

So, along with the requisite spares, are the nuts and bolts on a D3/D4 (or most relevantly to me, a MY12 D4 TDV6) metric, imperial or the dreaded bit of both?

[veebs]

All metric, and from what I've seen, mostly 10mm at that... :-)

[speleomike]

Hi all

I'm also particularly interested in what tools I should carry. Have had my 2013 D4 for a bit less than two months. I don't do off roading or desert trips but travel a lot in the country each weekend (about 530 kms each weekend) and on dirt roads. Far enough that I'm not near any service place.

OK I have fencing wire, duck tape, electrical wire and multimeter in my kit but I need to replace those Toledo brand screwdrivers for sure. I just have some open end and ring spanners from when I had my Audi 80 and Commodore VK. I'll be going to the Mudgee Small Farms field day next Friday and Tool King is always there with tables of tools at good prices. But what to get??

Ring spanners ? - what range of sizes ?
Socket sets ? - what range of sizes ?
Posidrive screw drivers, flat head ones ?

Anyone got a good list that is useful. Oh BTW, I'm not a mechanic, so I'm only going to be fixing simple stuff. Even if I don't know how to fix something myself having the tools that fit might mean someone else in my group can fix it.

Mike

[Ralph1Malph]

Hi All,
I notice no-one has mentioned an air bag/strut for D3.
I was thinking about throwing one in.

Thoughts?

Ralph

[Tombie]

Hi All,
I notice no-one has mentioned an air bag/strut for D3.
I was thinking about throwing one in.

Thoughts?

Ralph

It’s the carrying of such items that often causes the failures you’re trying to avoid [emoji106][emoji6]

It has to end somewhere, otherwise people would be transporting a spare engine, diff centre, transmission etc.

If a strut fails it’s as simple as having one shipped to the nearest town. It’s highly unlikely you’ll replace it on the track.

[Graeme]

If one is prepared to swap out a strut then carrying a handful of the internal bump-stops to use as spacers would be a viable temporary fix to be used on either the front or rear.

[Disco-tastic]

I haven't heard of many airbag failures while remote - main issue is punctures from sticks.

I'd take some airline and a few quick connects - I had a line burst in the bush (OK, I wasn't being very kind to the car at the time) which I could thankfully get home with but will now have some air line and connectors next time I go too far from home.

[Graeme]

Graeme, is it easy to work out which are the fuses to remove? Should I have a poke around first before asking or will it not be clear which fuses are in the gun sights?

thanks, Ian
Sorry, I missed this post.

The 20A engine bay suspension fuse to prevent lowering and the passenger compartment 5A suspension fuse to stop the annoying reminder messages.

[RANDLOVER]

…………………………............If a strut fails it’s as simple as having one shipped to the nearest town. It’s highly unlikely you’ll replace it on the track.On the subject of things unlikely to be replaced on the track, has anyone ever replaced a starter motor, as recently I had my mech replace mine and asked him to keep the old one for me in case I needed to replace it beside the road, he said I'd pro'ly wouldn't be able to do it, as it is very difficult to do, and really needs a hoist.

[Tombie]

On the subject of things unlikely to be replaced on the track, has anyone ever replaced a starter motor, as recently I had my mech replace mine and asked him to keep the old one for me in case I needed to replace it beside the road, he said I'd pro'ly wouldn't be able to do it, as it is very difficult to do, and really needs a hoist.

A very important thing to consider!
Consider that all the extra spares induce weight which then often leads to other failures.

When on long runs my tool kit weighs less than 10kg and the number of spares is absolutely minimal.

It’s the R&M that is done throughout the vehicles life that dictates how it will behave in long trips. If it’s pampered it will usually behave.

[gavinwibrow]

A very important thing to consider!
Consider that all the extra spares induce weight which then often leads to other failures.

When on long runs my tool kit weighs less than 10kg and the number of spares is absolutely minimal.

It’s the R&M that is done throughout the vehicles life that dictates how it will behave in long trips. If it’s pampered it will usually behave.


I very much concur. But - go figure. On our current 3/4AU trip the front diff did a bearing at 240K km - even our faithful independent LR Indie go to man (DazzaTD5 on here) wasn't expecting that one.

[DazzaTD5]

IMHO...
I recommend customers take ME (and Perentie, I hate being a passenger). All you have to do is feed me [bigrolf][bigrolf]

[DazzaTD5]

I very much concur. But - go figure. On our current 3/4AU trip the front diff did a bearing at 240K km - even our faithful independent LR Indie go to man (DazzaTD5 on here) wasn't expecting that one.

Got that right, even after doing two oil changes on the diffs [bighmmm] before you went, and the fact they drained cleaned I wasnt thinking that one at all

[Bendys]

On the subject of things unlikely to be replaced on the track, has anyone ever replaced a starter motor, as recently I had my mech replace mine and asked him to keep the old one for me in case I needed to replace it beside the road, he said I'd pro'ly wouldn't be able to do it, as it is very difficult to do, and really needs a hoist.

No need for hoist. I dropped my starter to do second turbo drain.
The difficulty is inversely proportional to patience.

[Hawc]

Hi all. I'm heading off on an extended trip soon, borders permitting. Before I launch into acquiring a range of travelling spares from the UK, is there anyone in the Canberra region who has a set of necessary travelling spares that they might be looking to offload? I have a 2014.5 3L SDV6 HSE. Thanks in advance.