Drop axle on caravan

[Homestar]

Just after some advice/opinions on what is the best (not necessarily the cheapest, but lower cost is always good) way of increasing the ground clearance of my ye olde caravan a couple of inches. It currently has the original 2" drop axle in it. I'm thinking the only real way is to fit a new axle or cut and reeled the drop bit off.

Any ideas appreciated.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

if the shackles will fit, a new axle would probably be best, need to change the tongue?

[Mick_Marsh]

Is it possible to extend the shackles on that van? That should give you an extra inch.
Are you going to change the position of the hitch?

[Tank]

Overhang front and rear is the main problem even with lifted springs, etc.
I seen an off-road caravan (about 16') and the body was high as Mt. Everest, but it still bottomed out on the drawbar and rear steeply angled rear end, might gain a bit with springs on top of axles. Caravans are just not suitable off road, Regards Frank.





if the shackles will fit, a new axle would probably be best, need to change the tongue?

[Mick_Marsh]

Overhang front and rear is the main problem even with lifted springs, etc.
I seen an off-road caravan (about 16') and the body was high as Mt. Everest, but it still bottomed out on the drawbar and rear steeply angled rear end, might gain a bit with springs on top of axles. Caravans are just not suitable off road, Regards Frank.
Thankyou for your input but I don't think that had anything to do with the question.

[Homestar]

It's not going off road - but it is really low, and to hitch it to the 101 will be impossible if I don't bring it up a bit. Eventually I plan to modify the draw bar, but I'll make up a tow bar that drops down on the 101 for the time being.

The water tank is barely 100mm off the ground, so it is really low - I just want to bring it up a bit so getting in and out of parks, etc won't cause too much grief - I can't even get it up my driveway at the moment without it scraping.

[Landover]

My neighbour needed his Jayco lifted to bring it up to his 4wd. He got it done professionally and what they did was to weld some 2" box tube to the chassis which dropped the whole suspension down.

[Homestar]

Well I think my decision has just been made for me. Just looked at the brakes to see what needs doing to them - but they are toast. As I'll need to replace these in their entirety, I'll go the extra distance and get a new axle while I'm at it.

Another question - any ideas how to clean the water tank out so I can reuse it? It had water in it, so I know it doesn't leak, but I'm not keen of using it again until I know it has been fully decontaminated from years of sitting doing nothing.

Cheers.

[Rok_Dr]

Subject to hub/drop axle clearances you may be able to flip the axle to mount below the spring.

Cheers

Steve

[Homestar]

Subject to hub/drop axle clearances you may be able to flip the axle to mount below the spring.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks, I did some quick calcs on this. Putting the whole axle under the spring gives me about an inch - a good start, and flipping it over gives a huge amount, but it wasn't sure if it would stay flipped if I set it like this. Would it survive the natural tendency to want to revert back to the dropped position? If you know what I mean?

[Mick_Marsh]

flipping it over gives a huge amount, but it wasn't sure if it would stay flipped if I set it like this. Would it survive the natural tendency to want to revert back to the dropped position? If you know what I mean?
Yes. It will.
I'll be going down the same path, I think. I may have to replace the axles because I want to upgrade to electric brakes.

[Landover]

Have a look at Master Casters in Tullamarine, I got my boat trailer axles and electric brakes from them. Closer than Melbourne Trailers to us. See what options they have.

Master Castors and Trailer Parts (http://www.mastertrailerparts.com.au)

[Homestar]

Did a ring around and found that the local engineering supplies can get me one in for only a few dollars more than going and getting it myself, so I'll leave it to them. They will deliver it Friday arvo. :)

Anyone know about the water tank question I asked earlier?

[Tombie]

Mr Cat... :)

To clean the tank, buy some baby bottle sanitiser.

Drain tank, pour in sanitser, top up with water.

Let it sit a day or so, drain, flush, check taste is gone...

If it is then all good...

Dont forget to run all taps etc with the sanitiser in the tank to flush the lines.

[Homestar]

Ah, that sounds like a plan. No old lines to worry about - they will all be replaced, but the tank is in too good a condition to replace, so I'll be happy if I can rescue it.:)

I might have to get my username changed now - I like Mr Cat...:D

[Rok_Dr]

Thanks, I did some quick calcs on this. Putting the whole axle under the spring gives me about an inch - a good start, and flipping it over gives a huge amount, but it wasn't sure if it would stay flipped if I set it like this. Would it survive the natural tendency to want to revert back to the dropped position? If you know what I mean?

I wouldn't recommend actually flipping the axle as you describe.

When I said "flipped" I meant mounting the axle in the same orientation below the spring rather than on top of it. Depending on the thickness of your spring pack and axle you should get a couple of inches.

Cheers

Steve

[Tank]

Mick I was referring to the OP who asked for info /tips, Regards frank.



Thankyou for your input but I don't think that had anything to do with the question.

[p38arover]

I'm thinking the only real way is to fit a new axle or cut and reeled the drop bit off.

:confused:

[Homestar]

:confused:

Ha ha, missed that - I always proof read my posts several times, but certainly missed that one.

That should have been re weld, but auto correct thought better of it.:D

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Mr Cat... :)

To clean the tank, buy some baby bottle sanitiser.

Drain tank, pour in sanitser, top up with water.

Let it sit a day or so, drain, flush, check taste is gone...

If it is then all good...

Dont forget to run all taps etc with the sanitiser in the tank to flush the lines.

even better,,, wait till its a goer,, then do as Tombie says, then take for a bumpy drive---;)

[Homestar]

even better,,, wait till its a goer,, then do as Tombie says, then take for a bumpy drive---;)

Not a bad idea - that would only mean a trip down the street and back. I have to navigate 6 to 8 speed bumps whichever way I try and get out of my estate.:)

[TerryO]

Well Mr Cat! ... ;) If your getting all new brakes than why not buy a good quality straight axle at the same time, they are not that expensive.
Then as others have said mount it under the springs with some good quality U shackles. Another relatively easy thing is depending on what size rims you have look around for some good condition second hand taller L/T tyres, which after you lift the suspension will give you plenty of additional ground clearance.

If you also decide to change the hitch then I would seriously look at the new horizontal McHitch.

[Homestar]

Thanks Terry, you are a bit of a mind reader. I ordered a HD straight axle for it as well.:). Just had 3 new 700 x 14 (well, the modern equivalent) Light truck tyres fitted to the rims. They are an inch bigger than standard, so I should get about 60 odd mill higher than before.:)

Oh, and the new hitch - when I get to it, will be a pintle hook so it goes straight on the back of the 101. No new fangled stuff for me. ;)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

well that pintle should mix the toilet contents quite well:angel::wasntme:

[Sitec]

Mr Cat... Yup, that's going to stick. Pictures pictures.. Lets have a look at the current setup with the wheel removed.. Can make a better suggestion then. Axle under springs is the first move. Second is longer springs.. giving you more lift as the arc is deeper, third is extended rear hangars if they have hangars not sliders, and 4th as said before, is remove all mounts, slot in a piece of 50 x 50, 100 x 50, or 150 x 50 dependant on lift requiired, and refit all mounts. :)

[Homestar]

Yep, I'll take plenty of pics this weekend when I'm doing it. Without getting custom springs made, there are no options but to use the originals. Franklin used a custom spring length back in the 70's which no one keeps on the shelf these days. The current springs are in good condition, and flex nicely with the weight of the van, so I'm not in a hurry to change them if I don't have too.

With what I have in mind at the moment, I'll get an extra 60mm no dramas, which may be enough. I just want to stop it being such a belly scraper. It's not got to be an off road type setup - it'll only be use on the bitumen and the odd trip into Wombat. I don't want to move the centre of gravity up too high, and I don't want it sticking up too much higher that the 101 if I can help it. :D

[Redback]

When you clean the tank, use homebrew fermenter cleaner, it will de-scale the tank and get rid of any mould or build up inside, then rinse it thoroughly.

Baz.

[Homestar]

well that pintle should mix the toilet contents quite well:angel::wasntme:

Yes, the toilet will get mixed up quite well when the pintle goes on. :D It's first couple of trips will be on the standard 50mm hitch. I've got to make up a bar to fit the 101 for the time being.

Not sure why no one like pintle hooks - they are so easy to connect to. Noice I hear you say? It doesn't make a sound.... above the noise the 101 makes...

[Homestar]

Ok, a few before pics.

This is how the van currently sits. Towball and chassis are 350mm off the ground, and the water tank is about 150mm off the ground - a bit of a low rider.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/171F7C00-11F8-4060-BF1B-42712E298C3F-5915-0000124FE8E99E7E_zps95b9d03b.jpg

This shows how far into the wheel arch the current wheel sits with the 2" drop axle.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/0D1C6F36-724F-4E12-905B-01CCA0660197-5915-0000124FD645E60C_zps59dd4cd8.jpg

Here's the shiny new Toyo LT's ready for it.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/69A00105-BE95-4BF2-8C8A-89B7FAFA63CE-5915-0000124FE3FC15A9_zpsbeda25fa.jpg

Here's the new axle.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/B0BA6753-8A87-4222-9D50-CDBFA48E08C9-5915-0000124FEED8F750_zps2393c193.jpg

And a close up of one end.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/37A184D5-52CD-4959-A3C6-3AE2DC25B9F8-5915-0000124FDEE155B6_zps16d77334.jpg

My calculation show I should end up with an extra 110mm with the tyres and axle. That should be a good start I think. More pics to come as I rip into it.:)

New axle is rated at 1400Kg, which is 300Kg more than its gross mass, and over 600Kg more than it currently weighs. New tyres are rated to 900Kg each, so plenty of safety margin will be under it.

[grey_ghost]

Hmm - me thinks that the axle was photographed in the back of a shiny new Captiva... :wasntme:

[Homestar]

Hmm - me thinks that the axle was photographed in the back of a shiny new Captiva... :wasntme:

Indeed it was. Went round a corner and it slipped off the blocks I had it on, so the plastics on the back door have their first damage...:D

Had it just over a week, and it's clocked up 1,700KM...

[Homestar]

Well, I'm calling it a night. Caravan is now 2 feet off the ground, and blocked up safely. Old u bolts cut off and the front of the springs unbolted, so the old axle is ready to come out, but I'm too stuffed to do that tonight.

Old master cylinder is off and in the bin, new one installed. New brake line ready to be run in. If everything bolts up ok I should have new brakes working tomorrow. :)

[Homestar]

Here's a quick question - the chassis is in great condition, but as is very common, it is covered in surface rust. Now I could spend almost forever with a wire brush cleaning it, but if anyone knows an easier way, I'm all ears.

Plan is to clean it up a bit, then coat it in something waterproof like some brush able bitumen or similar.

So, anyone got a brainwave that will save me several days hard graft? :)

[spudboy]

Get a wire brush that bolts onto an angle grinder. Still a nasty job, but a lot faster than hand brushing.

Also, for cleaning the tank, try Borax. We had a water tank that had diesel in it, and Borax removed the diesel smell/taste. You can get it from Woolies/Coles (powder).

[Landover]

I used a wire brush wheel in a drill to remove rust from my boat trailer. Much easier than by hand but make sure you wear gloves and eye protection.


I cleaned my van tank with a product that I think is called Tank Clean. I was from the caravan super store on Hume Hwy Campbellfield. I think it was around $10. I have it in the shed so will confirm tomorrow.


If you need a hand with the axle give me a call, I'm around all weekend.

[Homestar]

Whew! All done. :). New axle, brake lines, master cylinder in, brakes bled up and working, new tyres on. :)

A couple of big improvements over the old axle. First up, I've got 110mm more clearance now, and the hitch is now 460mm off the ground, but the biggest thing is that you no longer have to jack up the van from the chassis to change the tyres like you did before. With the drop axle, if you jacked it up under the axle, the wheel was too far up in the guard to allow it to come off the wheel studs... Stupid design. All good now though. No clearance issues - heaps of room in every direction. The old tyres had bottomed out on the guard before - there are holes in both sides that need repairing before I drag it around in the rain, but now, even with the suspension fully bottomed out - and with bigger tyres, I still have around 40mm clearance. So a few pics below...

The old and the new - shows how much drop there was in the old axle. (The drop axle is upside down but you see what I mean..)
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/64BEF749-F798-4634-9696-78B372C2259C-6101-0000131276548B50_zps972723d3.jpg

The greasable shackle pins are as new - as were the bushes. I don't think it has done too many KM to be honest.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/66531135-0A25-4C33-A5F7-E3CBCD73CC4C-6101-00001312723EBDAF_zpsc10e7705.jpg

Pretty new bits....
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/D41114D6-8241-4FAC-BFC6-51B7E291A42F-6101-000013126DD7D594_zpsa34924b5.jpg

How it sits now - heaps of clearance.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/A5EBC970-7B84-4BAC-9E3C-2AF879AB04F0-6101-00001312646831E8_zpsbc50c964.jpg

New master cylinder.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/B9E064F4-A1E4-48CE-B14D-A21E21F91DED-6101-0000131269ADC0FD_zpsc4a0c555.jpg

I am going to need to build a set of steps now - the original slide in step was already gone, but it didn't take much to step up into it before. It's a bloody big step now... I don't thing SWMBO would be able to get in and out of it as it currently sits..

Thanks for everyone's input, it was greatly appreciated.

[Hoges]

Here's a quick question - the chassis is in great condition, but as is very common, it is covered in surface rust. Now I could spend almost forever with a wire brush cleaning it, but if anyone knows an easier way, I'm all ears.

Plan is to clean it up a bit, then coat it in something waterproof like some brush able bitumen or similar.

So, anyone got a brainwave that will save me several days hard graft? :)

A suggestion: As others have said, clean off the obvious rust with a wire brush on an angle grinder...as much of the scaly stuff as possible. Then wipe it down with a rag damped in dilute phosphoric acid (...GLOVES) to remove the powdery remnants. Now paint it with rust converter and let it react and then hose it off and let dry. A couple of spray cans of etch primer and you will probably have it primer- coated in a few minutes. Let it dry and top coat with Wattyl metal epoxy or whatever. Once that's dry and cured, paint it with a couple of heavy coats of the bitumen stuff to reduce 'gravel rash' breaking through the protective epoxy coating... should last you 5 yrs at least... then just recoat with the bitumen stuff!;)

An alternative is to simply wire brush to get rid of the scaly stuff then give it a generous spray with a lanolin based material ...eg Lanotec. It will 'adsorb' into the metal surface and stick like "you know what does to a blanket". Just hose it down every few months and a quick respray with the lanolin. An old mate of mine who served his 20+ yrs in the RAN swears by the lanolin in keeping rust at bay from his experience as an engineer at sea...

[Graeme]

Its good to see an older van given some new life.

For my lifted van I bought a cheap plastic step that sits in the inside step area when travelling.

[Homestar]

That sounds like a good idea. I like simple, that's why I have a 40 year old van in the first place. :)

[Landover]

I could not find the tank clean stuff in the shed but looked it up. He is a link for it at BCF.


Tank Cleen Water Tank Cleaner - 200g - BCF (http://www.bcf.com.au/online-store/products/Tank-Cleen-Water-Tank-Cleaner-200g.aspx?pid=203602#Recommendations)

[slug_burner]

Chlorine /bleach is the stuff to clean out your water tank.

[87County]

Chlorine /bleach is the stuff to clean out your water tank.


not if it is alloy :o

[slug_burner]

not if it is alloy :o

Is this a concentration issue? Most tap water has had chlorine added to kill the bugs. I suspect that the concentrations available to the public can't present too much of an issue. Stainless is what the majority of water tanks are made of in my limited experience so if bacicat has an aluminium tank the advice may not apply. Anyway household bleach would be my the first thing I would try. All aluminium shower frames holding the glass in my shower are still holding up to a regular clean with household bleach.

[Homestar]

It's a plastic tank. A ye olde one at that. I dont know if it is original, as the van is a '75 model, but that's what's there, and it still holds water, so I plan to use it until it doesn't. :)

[Homestar]

So, found an unexpected job needs doing now. While underneath it removing the bolts that hold the fridge in, I had a closer look over the chassis and draw bar. Chassis is as I thought - surface rust, but solid. Found a couple of lumps in the paint on one piece of the draw bar. When I scratched this off with a screwdriver, a hole appeared. When I went looking, I found a few more. So, off to my mates workshop with it later in the week to graft a new drawbar onto it.

I'll take the opportunity to tie it right back to the spring hangers, and extend it a little bit. Thinking about 300 to 400mm would make the towing experience a little better. Anyone got any thoughts on ideal draw bar length?

[Sitec]

Looking good! The other thing Id do is mount that axle under the springs. That'll give u more lift again. With that done. A slight modification in the arch, making it bigger and then some bigger boots and you will be up around 101 height. A couple of decent mud flaps at the rear and you're done!! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

While your at it, get him to weld another hitch mount (like on that ARB trailer) so you can use a lunette on the 101 pintle.

[Homestar]

Looking good! The other thing Id do is mount that axle under the springs. That'll give u more lift again. With that done. A slight modification in the arch, making it bigger and then some bigger boots and you will be up around 101 height. A couple of decent mud flaps at the rear and you're done!! :)

As much as I'd love to, I don't think the caravan would stay together if I started towing it off road.:D. The height is great now - I need 2 steps to get into it, so that gives you an idea of the height of it.


While your at it, get him to weld another hitch mount (like on that ARB trailer) so you can use a lunette on the 101 pintle.

Yes, thinking of a way to do this and keep the 50mm hit has well. Time will be the biggest killer at the moment. Got a lot to do in a short amount of time.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

- I need 2 steps to get into it, so that gives you an idea of the height of it.

Pics?:angel:

and some light reading--
Trailer Sauce :: Drawbar Design & Function (http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/information/draw-bar-design/)

[Chucaro]

Here's a quick question - the chassis is in great condition, but as is very common, it is covered in surface rust. Now I could spend almost forever with a wire brush cleaning it, but if anyone knows an easier way, I'm all ears.

Plan is to clean it up a bit, then coat it in something waterproof like some brush able bitumen or similar.

So, anyone got a brainwave that will save me several days hard graft? :)

I just helped my son Carlos doing that job in his vintage 16' Millard.

We used "Hammerite direct to rust" metal paint. It is an awesome paint, I recommend it . We used it also in the door step and it hold the wear very well.
We got it from Mitre 10

I will ask Carlos to see if he can posts some photos of the job. The plywood floor (in the need) was coated with a good quality deck paint.

[Homestar]

Pics?:angel:


Just over 500mm to the floor. Waaaay to much for SWMBO - even with one step.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/CD5FC6E0-AAD3-4F4B-A13F-C8F51FD8EEA4-6614-000014A42DB20BB3_zps3afcd36b.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/B07D8F9F-240A-430B-AB3A-0FDDA3B54931-6614-000014A4358CD7ED_zps682aba69.jpg

[Mick_Marsh]

While your at it, get him to weld another hitch mount (like on that ARB trailer) so you can use a lunette on the 101 pintle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/125.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_2664.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

Doing some interior work at the moment. New cupboard doors cut, painted and installed.

Old and new.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/B94B8BE4-4528-4BCD-858B-09837662588F-444-000000A6ADD8D0C7_zps49070804.jpg

Back on and looking very 70's...
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/62F632BF-A3F2-41B8-A66C-19C94D6D0EDE-444-000000A6E319D1AC_zps4d6ca3fd.jpg

[Cap]

Very nice, I need to replace my doors as they are crumbling chip board material! Did you make them from scratch, or modified doors?

[Homestar]

New doors made up from scratch. Just used sheets of 9mm ply from. Masters at $8.50 a pop for a 1200 x 600mm sheet. Got 8 new doors out of 2 sheets. Old doors used as templates. A bit of stuffing around, but worth the effort. :). Used a small circular saw with fine tooth blade to cut it all up. Ran the saw along a straight edge clamped to the sheet of timber, then just hand sanded the edges. Used a sealer on the wood, then 2 coats of paint.

[Homestar]

Well today I towed the van to a mates workshop as the next bit requires more room to work, a decent level floor and a kick arse welder.

So tonight after playing with an angle grinder for a couple of hours, the draw bar fell off... :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

New one will be taken right back to the spring hangers and secured in 6 places to the chassis rather than the factory 4 places. The triangulation, larger box section and the 6 points of contact should really stiffen it up. :)

[Cap]

Well today I towed the van to a mates workshop as the next bit requires more room to work, a decent level floor and a kick arse welder.

So tonight after playing with an angle grinder for a couple of hours, the draw bar fell off... :D
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/3094CCED-7DA9-45F8-8E7D-673FBDEF5F0D-2434-000005C3306B00C3_zpsd47c6eaf.jpg

New one will be taken right back to the spring hangers and secured in 6 places to the chassis rather than the factory 4 places. The triangulation, larger box section and the 6 points of contact should really stiffen it up. :)

Hey look, your not the only one :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/294.jpg

[Homestar]

There's something just a little but wrong about a van without a drawbar....:D

Cap - have you got an after shot of the new one? What sort of length did you make it?

New drawbar for mine is almost ready to weld in. The new crossmember is now secured to the chassis and isn't going anywhere. I have test fitted both new bits for the drawbar, and all looks good. It is about 500mm longer than standard. A bit longer than I was going to make it, but the guy helping me has some knowledge of these things and convinced me to add an extra 100mm more than I was going to.

Tomorrow I'll tack it all together and my mate will weld it up for me on Monday. There will be heaps of room for twin gas bottles now, and maybe a small toolbox, but that will depend on what sort of ball weight I end up with. It was sitting on 85Kg before, and hoping to be closer to around 120kg when I'm all done.

If things go as planned, it should tow pretty well when I'm done.

[Mick_Marsh]

Gav, is it at Mick's?
What time will you be there?

[Homestar]

Gav, is it at Mick's?
What time will you be there?

No, it's in Laverton at Dragon Diesel. I'll be there from about 10am. I can send you the address if you want to come and have a look.

[Cap]

Ill post up some pics when I get mine back from the guy doing the job for me. I think he said he will have it done over the next few weekends, so im calculating around end of month. He will copy it exactly as when looking underneath there wasnt the support available without adding more, so we decided to copy it. Cant remember dimensions, but pretty much similar size RHS so should look close to original.

[Homestar]

So, after a big slog today, I have plenty to show for it. New drawbar is all tacked in ready to be fully welded on Monday by my mate. Thanks to Mr Marsh for a helping hand and ideas today - he really helped me finalise what was floating about in my brain.

So, onto the pics.

Here's an overview of everything. Twin gas bottle holders & spare wheel carrier. The new bar is 450mm longer than standard and welded right back to the spring hangers. Despite the size and weight of the steel, I can still easily lift the van from the front - my guess is it's not 40Kg as you see it here. With the spare and the gas bottles, not even 100. With the wet room finished inside and a battery and solar panel, then probably around 120 to 130 which is right where I want it. Jack stands are still there, but it is fully self supporting now.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/E8C7D0C1-9097-4EB5-AC6F-D03571B773BC-2739-0000066BF845883F_zpsf7d8dc8d.jpg

Close up of the spare holder and the gas cylinder holders.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/AE3C219A-2632-40F6-BD79-0663EB290462-2739-0000066BFFE26E59_zps8ff954b8.jpg

With the wheel mounted.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/FCDCB889-6C04-4F95-AFF9-45D6433E2FD2-2739-0000066C0524EC32_zps01cfbeb3.jpg

Tomorrow is the hitch, brake line, etc. should be mobile again early next week.:)

[Mick_Marsh]

This is the hitch I was talking about.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/269.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/DSC_4813.jpg.html)
You will also need part A803 from here
Master Castors and Trailer Parts (http://www.mastertrailerparts.com.au/products.php?id=4)

[Chucaro]

Are you going to have only the top plate at the tip of the bar or you will put another one at the bottom?
Even an small one at the bottom will help to stop any flex IMHO.
Are you going to plug the ends of the RHS with expanding foam?

[Homestar]

Just the plate on the top I think. The new setup is hugely over engineered compared to the original - which also only had a plate on top (6mm) Even with it just tacked up it us very rigid - I think I could tow it as is just with a few blobs of weld here and there :D, but that plate is 10mm thick and will be welds top and bottom - not much chance of flexing IMO. The ends will be blanked off with something - not sure what yet. Maybe some plastic caps - I think you can get them that size, but I like the idea OD expanding foam - I could use that in both ends to keep the moisture out, which is what caused the original to rust out in the first place. Out of one side the brake line and wiring for the lights and the reverse camera. Through the other will be a 50 amp supply running to the main battery in the 101 to the house battery which will be located under the dining seat just forward of the axle - directly opposite the fridge, so that should balance the van a bit better, as there is significantly more weight on that side at the moment.

[Chucaro]

if you are going to plug them with something more permanent run a conduct on one of the bottom corners. Just put silicone on them to stop moving and it will be easy to replace or add wiring in the future.
On my trailer I have done that and then used expansion foam (in spray) and worked very well.
Just a thought :)

[Tombie]

Don't seal them, it will make them rust worse...

[Homestar]

Don't seal them, it will make them rust worse...

Ok, but what if the steel is brand new and dry? What's the best way of ensuring it won't rust in the long run? Am I just better off sealing the front so it doesn't get full of water every time it rains, but leave the back open for it to air?

[Chucaro]

The accumulation of dust ans soil particles together with humidity it is the killer. Wasp nest also in Qld :)
You can paint it inside and choose the paint depending on how much money you would like to spend.
The expensive will be POR15 undercoat only because it will be nor exposed to UV
The cheaper option and very good product as well will be Hamerlite paint.
One way to paint it will be to drag a rag soaked in paint from one end to the other and give a second coat for those parts missed.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Have you thought about stone ricochets off the tyre?
Just thinkin:angel:

oh, and how about a pic underneath:cool:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

one of these with a lot of diesel should work,,
you may have to park it outside for a while though:angel::p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/237.jpg

[bee utey]

Ok, but what if the steel is brand new and dry? What's the best way of ensuring it won't rust in the long run? Am I just better off sealing the front so it doesn't get full of water every time it rains, but leave the back open for it to air?
You have two choices. Either seal up the tubes to the extent that they hold pressure and fill them with dry air or nitrogen, or leave them open so they dry out at the earliest opportunity. Preventing mud from gathering in the tube is a good idea so I'd suggest perhaps covering each end but leaving a significant downwards facing opening at each end. My car trailer has now spent 35 years out in the weather and most of the open tubes are just fine. The only rust that's been a problem is in lapped joins.

[Tombie]

You can close the open end at the front as Bee utey said..
But yes, leave something open.

Boat trailer manufacturers tries this years ago and it made them rot out quicker.

End plate the front, leave a gap at the bottom to flush it out, and then por 13 or paint/lanotec/waxoil the internals...

[Homestar]

Have you thought about stone ricochets off the tyre?
Just thinkin:angel:

oh, and how about a pic underneath:cool:

Spare is almost exactly where the factory put it 40 years ago, so not expecting any issues. Anyway, I would have thought a tyre was designed to stand up to a stone or two.

I'll get a pic underneath tomorrow - just for you. :)

[Homestar]

one of these with a lot of diesel should work,,
you may have to park it outside for a while though:angel::p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/237.jpg

Where else would I park it? I can barely fit a motor bike in my garage... :D Unfortunately it will be gone from its undercover haven in a few days and back to roughing it in the driveway.

[slug_burner]

Ricochets can be dangerous to the towing vehicle, more so for vehicles towing on gravel roads. Many off road campers have a deflector to force stones down and away from the trailer stopping ricochets off the trailer and onto the tow vehicles rear door glass. Not much glass on the back of the 101.

[slug_burner]

Repeat post.

[Hoges]

FWIW...I fitted a 4m length of 6mm drip irrigation hose with a 360 deg. spray , threaded it through the draw bar and connected the hose via homemade connector to one of those $10 centrifugal pumps which fit an electric drill. I dipped the pump input hose into a container of Lanotec and while the spray was operating pulled the hose through the draw bar sections. I then let it dry and repeated the process. I re-treat every couple of years. About 150ml is all that's needed for each side. No rust, it is always in the weather...

[Homestar]

New drawbar finally all fully welded in. Mostly painted, but I ran out of paint, so a few bits underneath still need doing tomorrow night.

So, a few more pics.

A couple of shots of underneath - where the drawbar ties to the spring hangers and the extra crossmember welded between the main chassis rails. This also serves to stop the floor flexing above it - it was quite bad with me stepping on it, but now is rock solid. These pics are before it was fully welded.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/C72712D2-A2C5-4AC9-BBDB-136F7B854144-3039-000006F9FC24E437_zps31c34741.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/2F11DD92-8BD6-452A-A50F-322C6D2184C0-3039-000006FA0307731E_zps6b9ad2af.jpg

A bit of welding porn... My mate is a much better welder than me...:D. The grotty bits at each end were my tacks... He wasn't happy with them and wanted me to grind them off and start again. He's a perfectionist, but I like that when it comes to things like this. I did get away with it - just.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/560D9151-44A2-497A-B01F-2CE1A3157075-3039-000006FA08FD5B30_zps52f81c0f.jpg

All painted and looking pretty. :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Love weld porn!!

Maybe run a sheet of something from your new floor support down to the bottom of the water tank as protection?.
My tank/rock deflector was new before we left and has some serious dings in it now:o

[Homestar]

Yeah, that's a good idea. The water tank is next on my list - it's coming out for a clean, and so I can paint the chassis bits around that area. There are already some stones wedged between the tank and the supporting board it sits on.

[Cap]

All painted and looking pretty. :)
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/91CEF561-B2D0-4F41-8668-E19F65C4FED9-3039-000006FA0FA727C8_zps43a2083e.jpg

Can I ask, why isnt there a plate under the draw bar (below the hitch)? I would have thought this would be a big flex point and you would need a base plate.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

:o
dont mention the war!

[Homestar]

Can I ask, why isnt there a plate under the draw bar (below the hitch)? I would have thought this would be a big flex point and you would need a base plate.

Good question Carlos, and yes it was thought of, but not deemed nessesary in the end. There will be very little flex there. Points to remember - this is an on road van only - not going on the dirt or off road. The drawbar now has 200% more steel in than factory. The original never had a plate underneat and survived 2 decades of being towed before being parked up. The spare wheel support half way up the bar also prevents twisting. The baseplate the coupling is bolted to is 10mm thick - the factory plate was 4mm. The 10mm plate is welded underneath as well. As it sits, it is heaps stronger than it ever was - even from the factory when new. Over engineering just adds more weight which I don't want - the whole thing weighs under 1000Kg. The guy that welded it up did the engineering calculations and said we were at least 3 times over what was required for the steel used - which is 3mm mild steel - australian made, not the 2mm 'high tensile' chinese steel used in a lot of vans these days. I have no concerns about the long term strength of this bar.

Does that answer your question? :)

[Homestar]

:o
dont mention the war!

Don't worry mate, happy to have these conversations. The design was drawn up by me - it looked like a long triangle. It was developed into what you see by a combination of me, and Engineer and the fabricator that welded it up - I'm not about to second guess there ideas or calculations. They have both built much bigger and stronger things in the past. I think as DIY'ers we naturally tend to over engineer things because we don't fully understand the strengths and weaknesses. I certainly do - my back verandah is made from steel which I built myself. With the foundations I used and the steel I used, a builder who I know worked out I could put an upstairs room on top of it and still be legal...:D

[Redback]

Gav, I would also angle the end of the drawbar back and seal the ends about 2/3s of the way up from the bottom, this will stop scooping dirt into the drawbar.

Like this

http://www.towingguide.com.au/photos/couplings06.jpg

http://www.towingguide.com.au/photos/couplings04.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/116.jpg

[Homestar]

Well, it's back home.

What a difference! It towed beautifully. Before it was quite twitchy at 85KPH on the highway, but now it's rock solid. Tested it up to 100 and it is fine. Backing off the throttle suddenly doesn't upset it, and treading on the brakes brings the whole show up straight. It tracks well, tows straight and doesn't crab at all.

One very happy chappy. :)

Will finish off a few bits and pieces early next week when I get a chance and should have it in for rego sometime mid week.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

are they a Toyo HO8?

[Homestar]

are they a Toyo HO8?

Um, not sure...:angel:

They are certainly a Toyo Light Truck tyre, so they could be... :D

I asked for a decent quality LT tyre and that's what they recommended. The tyre place I use has never steered me wrong, so I went with their advice. They have a load rating of 900Kg @ 65PSI which is quite good and way more than I will subject them to, so I hope they go the distance. :)

I'll check tonight.

[Homestar]

Ok, I can now confirm they are indeed H08's. :) SWMBO was good enough to go and have a look for me as she is home today.

After doing a bit of research on them, they seem to be a well liked tyre on vans.

[Homestar]

Ok, a couple of steps further. It is now ready for rego! Tomorrow night it goes over the weighbridge, Thursday morning in for Registration...

Also got the 12 volt electrics sorted - a bit of a bodge at the moment, but it works like a treat. Basically, I've got a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter connected to 200 amp hours of deep cycle batteries. Lead from the inverter runs out the window and plugs into the side of the van....

Yes, I know, but I won't have time to put a changeover switch in before we go away for the first time. With 2 lights on (that have 6 watt LED globes each), the pedestal fan running on low and the TV on, I'm drawing just under 5 amps on the 12 volt side - pretty happy with that. The fridge will have to wait until we get to site and the gas lit. I'll use the engel in the back of the 101 in the meantime. I will eventually get a decent 12 volt supply run from the 101 so I can run the fridge through the inverter while driving. All in good time.

The downside of running a cheap inverter is that it draws .6 amp while doing nothing! I'll turn it off when not using it at night, so all good. During the day, the 150 watt solar panel will keep thinks happy. Given that I don't need to run the engel while parked up, I doubt I'll run short of power. Will just have to keep an eye on the gas though, not sure how long a gas fridge will take to suck a 9kg bottle dry - any ideas on that?

cheers.

[Cap]

good luck with it all, ill be doing same end of month with rego.

[Chucaro]

I am jealous :(
Eventually I will fix the gas bottles cradle on the RR so I can fit the towbar on it, then start hunting for a cheap van.............

[loanrangie]

9kg bottle will last a couple of months , its really only a pilot light.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[TerryO]

It will be interesting to see how you go Gav with rego considering it now has a new A frame, I was told by one bloke a few years ago who does blue slips when I got a camper trailer registered in NSW for the first time that the A-frame is the main part of any trailer that must meet ADR compliance and needs to have some proof that it is complied by the manufacturer or a engineer.

I hope he was wrong otherwise it could be a hassle

[TerryO]

9kg bottle will last a couple of months , its really only a pilot light.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app


If your van has a gas HWS and gas fridge like ours does then a 9 kg bottle lasts about 2 weeks. Less if we use the BBQ a lot.

[Mick_Marsh]

It will be interesting to see how you go Gav with rego considering it now has a new A frame, I was told by one bloke a few years ago who does blue slips when I got a camper trailer registered in NSW for the first time that the A-frame is the main part of any trailer that must meet ADR compliance and needs to have some proof that it is complied by the manufacturer or a engineer.

I hope he was wrong otherwise it could be a hassle
Engineers reports are not neccessary for a trailer under 4.5t GVM in Vic. As long as it meets certain criteria (axle size, spring size, braking system, position of lights and reflectors) it's fine to register for only $54 per year.

[Sitec]

Looking good, and that drawbar is fine! You've already discovered the first advantage of extra length.. When you towed it home! Steady as a rock! :) Roll on Melrose! :)

[Homestar]

Almost ready for its maiden voyage!

A big thankyou to Chops who came over today and gave me a hand, and some ideas.:). Got the floor down where the toilet is going - effectively gaining an extra foot of floor space it didn't have before.

After that, got a heap of wiring done, and the plumbing for the 12 volt pump. Only got to tidy up the wiring for the lights and to rehash the camera wiring in both the van and 101.

Biggest issue I have is can't get the 12 pin military plug apart to make up an adaptor for the wiring - that is tonight's job.

Terry - as Mick mentioned, no requirement for engineering here in Vic for any trailer that has a gross mass under 4,500Kg. As long as it meets the criteria Vicroads ask for - VIN or chassis number, proof of ownership, tyres in good condition, all lights working to the required standard, brakes as required depending on gross mass, and you're good to go. They don't care if it's super glued together or made from balsa wood. A brand new home made trailer would also require a data plate with a few more details on it, but still no requirement for engineering or a RWC.

Pay your $40 for the inspection, then about $28 for the plate and about $55 for a years rego, and you're on the road.

[Homestar]

Whew! All done, ready to roll in the morning. Went for a drive to the weigh bridge and back this arvo - sits on 85 to 90 on the highway no dramas. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Mick_Marsh]

Whew! All done, ready to roll in the morning. Went for a drive to the weigh bridge and back this arvo - sits on 85 to 90 on the highway no dramas. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



The 101 looks so tiny.

[Chops]

:D
See you up there Friday night kids :cool:

[Cap]

Looking good! Is the caravan a 16 footer? That 101 is great also.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I actually carry around two axle stands and use one at the front instead of the stupid jockey wheel. much more secure;)

[DoubleChevron]

Whew! All done, ready to roll in the morning. Went for a drive to the weigh bridge and back this arvo - sits on 85 to 90 on the highway no dramas. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

You need to repaint the stripes on the 'van with camo paint :wasntme: :D

it's remarkable how small the 101 looks infront of it!

[Homestar]

Arrived at Corowa safe and sound. Uneventful trip sitting on 90 on the freeway. Van was very well behaved and the 101 hardly noticed it was there - apart from the fact the suspension was actually doing something and the ride was very smooth. :)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/07DE936E-0524-4910-A6B2-31E12F405469-4655-00000AAD09312C11_zps0f6461af.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/E4B073C8-D9DA-4714-A3D8-9E3BD2B39F3E-4655-00000AAD0F14D052_zps6bf2661d.jpg

Yvonne posing in the second pic undertaking her favourite pastime... :)

[Chucaro]

Nice to see, good for those that think that need a $60000 van to be able to enjoy out outback. :)
Thanks for the photos :)

[Chops]

Looking good guy's.
Getting excited :D

[Landover]

Looks great. I thinks the whole van paint Camo would make it all link together. The people in the camp ground would keep walking into in though.


Enjoy your stay, and take so pics.

[Cap]

Im not sure about the paint scheme for the van. I like to see the van in original (or near original) colour scheme. There is a camo coloured van up the east coast of Tas and it looks terrible. Perhaps something like I have, a green stripe only that will match the LR green?

Of course, everyone has an opinion on YOUR van :P

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Have you been under and checked out the new welds?:angel:

How does the water taste?:eek:

I think you should paint the 101 to suit the van!!:D

[Chucaro]

Looks great. I thinks the whole van paint Camo would make it all link together. The people in the camp ground would keep walking into in though.


Enjoy your stay, and take so pics.

Camo netting overt it will do the trick :D

[Homestar]

Thanks for all the replies. :)

Ok, so welds are fine, water tastes great (and we're not dead yet from drinking it). Paint scheme is still undetermined but will be close to original, maybe with different stripes as the early 70's vans looked a bit better in that regard.

I do have a cammo net that I might take to Melrose if I can find it... :)

I'll post some pics of the event as I can.

[Cap]

I recon you should go retro, like this :P

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1034.jpg

[DoubleChevron]

You wouldn't paint a caravan any colour other than white...... It'd be too hot to ever use otherwise. Imagine how hot a caravan painted up in camouflage colours would get. Though he's one step ahead on this front.... given his caravan is a franklin is is foam sandwich .... so basically a coolroom in construction.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Cap]

Unlike my Millard... no insulation!

[Mick_Marsh]

I would suggest to paint the blue bits the same camouflage scheme as the 101.

[DoubleChevron]

Unlike my Millard... no insulation!

Have a look at the "fully insulated" new caravans here:

Caravaners Forum • View topic - ROGUES GALLERY or HORROR STORY ??? (http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12286)

I wouldn't buy a new caravan unless if was a sandwich construction.... I'd probably go an import with upgraded ratings ( I don't need to worry about his unless I win tattslotto though :angel:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/866.jpg

An aussie made "fully insulated" 'van :o :D :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Homestar]

It will be white, with some coloured bits... :D

The construction of the Franklin makes it very usable, even on a warm day. Just got up from an afternoon nap - it's 29 outside and the vans in the full sun - not r really any warmer in there than outside. Certainly no hot box :)

[Cap]

An aussie made "fully insulated" 'van :o :D :Rolling:

DAMN, at least Millard are promising a non-existent feature! That van most likely also cost a pretty penny too.

Sorry Bacicat - got off topic somewhat here on your thread.

[TerryO]

Have a look at the "fully insulated" new caravans here:

Caravaners Forum • View topic - ROGUES GALLERY or HORROR STORY ??? (http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12286)

I wouldn't buy a new caravan unless if was a sandwich construction.... I'd probably go an import with upgraded ratings ( I don't need to worry about his unless I win tattslotto though :angel:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/866.jpg

An aussie made "fully insulated" 'van :o :D :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.


The bloke who put up these pics is / used to be a van builder and repairer, many of the pics are quite old now. He used to build Pheniox Caravans which were rated as being very good and extremely expensive.
I have not read anything he writes for several years because the way he talked to people made me feel like I should drive up to his repair yard and smack him in the gob, he is such a rude arrogant *****.

I'm sure his work is very good but there is no need to be such a rude bastard.

The one thing his many pics in his link prove is owning a aluminium glad van that has that wood based product, which I can't remember the name off right now, for its frame is asking for trouble.

[DoubleChevron]

The bloke who put up these pics is / used to be a van builder and repairer, many of the pics are quite old now. He used to build Pheniox Caravans which were rated as being very good and extremely expensive.
I have not read anything he writes for several years because the way he talked to people made me feel like I should drive up to his repair yard and smack him in the gob, he is such a rude arrogant *****.

I'm sure his work is very good but there is no need to be such a rude bastard.

The one thing his many pics in his link prove is owning a aluminium glad van that has that wood based product, which I can't remember the name off right now, for its frame is asking for trouble.

Yeah that's him. If I'm trying to work something out, I search the forum with his username. I can understand him getting abusive, he'd advice people over and over and over ... hundreds of times of the way to do something that works. And he'd have people argue with him they know better (even when they have probably never worked on a caravan in the lives). eg: installing windows with urethane or silicon.... and how this makes it near impossible for a repairer to remove them in the future.

That picture *is* how the majority of aussie vans are made. Heavy chassis, wooden frame and cladding. The alloy framed 'vans he pictures appear to be just as poorly assembled, only the frames don't rot when they leak (the floors still will though).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Homestar]

Well, just got home from Corowa. Did 700KM with the van towing it with the 101. Averaged 25 Litres per 100KM which I can live with - only a few more litres than without a trailer. On the freeway and A roads, sat on 90KPH (On the GPS) without issue - the 101 really didn't notice it too much, but boy, the ride is sooooo much more comfortable with the weight of the van sitting on the suspension. :)

With a few tweaks before we head to Melrose, I will be even happier, but it doesn't need much - the fridge flue needs venting (kit ordered) and a couple more cupboards finished with doors on them so we can put our clothes away. Roof hatch needs replacing (I have the new one, but it's a different size, so a bit of work there).

All in all about a 7 out of 10, and I would have no hesitation in hooking it up and driving off into the sunset with it right now.

Again, a big thanks to Mick_march and Chops - without their help I simply wouldn't have been ready for this trip. I had a blast at Corowa by the way - It is a top weekend and I encourage anyone within striking distance to get there next year - with or without a Military vehicle - you will love it. Big thanks to the KVE (Khaki Vehicle Enthusiasts) for putting the event on and managing it so well :)

[Homestar]

Couple of pics tonight as I finished during daylight hours.

New water filler installed.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/69572457-24AD-4A41-8C40-B62FFFA598AC-5439-00000C329E8A3453_zpsacab4b27.jpg

Top half of new vent kit installed. Easy enough apart from the relocation of the outlet that runs the fridge from 240 volts - that is now a couple of inches away from the vent - blocks it a bit, but I think I have 3 or 4 times the venting at the top now. Still have to work out where I'm going to stick the bottom one due to the old access door being right where I need to stick it. I may put it in temporarily until after Melrose, then find a bit of new cladding so I can fit it properly and make it look half decent. The bottom of the vent is above the top of the fridge where it needs to be, but I'll still have to make a few bits up to direct the air outside and to seal around the fridge properly like modern installations. This should make the fridge work more efficiently, and stop it heating the van up so much. I'll also feel much happier that all the hot air from the flue isn't coming out around all the old dry timber framing around the fridge.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/CB2AC58A-F374-4AD9-BDE4-023ECB54FA29-5439-00000C32991A79CB_zpsd7f9b7a5.jpg

[Homestar]

Roof hatch is finished, it's a bit of a step back - from a 60's van, but it was there and it works. . Internal flashing is 0.4mm zincalume, and the whole lot is sealed up very well, so I'm not expecting any trouble. Once the sealant has fully cured, I'll give it a hose down to check it. New fly screen is also installed so no mozzies at night.

Hatch area is 900 x 750 now, so quite large. Only downside will be if I leave the hatch open when I'm not around and it rains... Oh well, floors are Lino, so I'll carry a mop... Photo is a bit deceiving as there is a good 100mm clearance when it is fully open - heaps of airflow.

Roof hatch is finished, it's a bit of a step back - from a 60's van, but it was there and it works. . Internal flashing is 0.4mm zincalume, and the whole lot is sealed up very well, so I'm not expecting any trouble. Once the sealant has fully cured, I'll give it a hose down to check it. New fly screen is also installed so no mozzies at night.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/73F8029D-07DD-47CF-AEA5-620442BD1301-5740-00000D9135C5F0BF_zpsc3918bf5.jpg

Lower fridge vent is also in.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/CACE3708-0F8A-4B09-A7F9-FFE9655E02D7-5670-00000D25DB60546C_zps1bc26827.jpg

Front stabilisers welded on, and you can see the 50 x 5 strap below the drawbar - a bit of strengthening to stop the flex I noticed during its first outing. That's just tacked in waiting for my neighbour to wander across and stitch it in properly.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/36C1AF3D-8F21-43B3-B320-D43D7CAABC71-5740-00000D94F29A9EB6_zps8d016b5e.jpg

So, a couple of cupboard doors and some wiring and we're ready to hit the road for Melrose in it! Only a week to go before we head off on a leisurely trip over to SA via the Barossa Valley. I wonder how many boxes of wine I can fit in the back of the 101... :D

[Cap]

Good to see you sourced some legs. Funny, i was today grinding off the old rear legs and prepping the surface for the new ones... your always a few steps in front which is good for me as i can check and compare with mine :)

[BigJon]

You shouldn't be welding to the top or bottom of the A frame. Any bracing should be attached to the sides.

[Homestar]

You shouldn't be welding to the top or bottom of the A frame. Any bracing should be attached to the sides.

Every factory brace from the 60's to today is welded to the bottom of the draw bar. Thought it was across the top you couldn't weld? everyone avoids doing that.

[Tombie]

Bracing underneath should be done using bar spaced off the main frame...

[Homestar]

Bracing underneath should be done using bar spaced off the main frame...

Agreed that's how most do it, and the way I was going to do it but the Engineer that designed the draw bar for me says this will work better as spaced method requires the bar to be pre stressed or stretched if it is going to be of any use, whereas this method doesn't need that.

He did say that is doesn't really need it and that what is there already is fine, but says this is the easiest way to alleviate the slight bounce in it when a big bump is negotiated.

[Tombie]

Some of these are from the vintage van forums.
92000

92001

92002

92003

[Homestar]

Thanks. Not sure why the method I'm using will be any less successful than those. I guess the 3000km to Melrose and back will show me...:D

[Homestar]

Looks like it doesn't work all the time....:D. Well, it doesn't work all the time when you have dip ****s over loading their vans anyway....
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=92004&d=1427022547

[Homestar]

This shows what I'm doing seems to be an accepted method of bracing.

Trailer Sauce :: Tongue Strengthening/Bracing (http://trailersauce.com/information/draw-bar-design/drawbar-strengthening-bracing/)

[slug_burner]

This might help explain why people use the ladder frame bracing to increase the stiffness of the drawbar.

Area Moments (http://www.learneasy.info/MDME/MEMmods/MEM30006A/Area_Moment/Area_Moment.html)

The same reason "I" beams are used, to increase the second moment of area/inertia for the same weight of material.

That caravan drawbar behind the Falcon broke where the bracing tapered off. Would have been better to have taken the bracing closer to the end of the drawbar.

Not sure about the shape of your brace bacicat but it maybe like this example in the linked video below at approx 5:40 min.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9QIqewkE6xM

[bee utey]

The easiest way to brace a flexy drawbar is to use flat strip welded to each end and at the middle point use a bolt and nut. Weld a short tube to the underside of the drawbar and weld the bolt head to the brace and tension the brace by winding up a nut against the tube. My tandem pony float has been braced that way and has done excellent service for over 22 years.

[Homestar]

So, off in the morning on a 2 week 2,000 to 3,000KM trip depending on where we go on the way there and back.

Finished off the last of the must do's left over from the trip the other week. So, draw bar bracing is done, new switchboard and inverter. My cheap arse one died on its first outing, so I coughed up for a decent one. It now runs through a changeover switch and RCD. Works a treat. Ran a 50amp supply from the main batteries in the 101 through an Anderson plug to the caravan battery so I can run the fridge while driving now.

Just got to throw the missus and pugs in and we're off to Melrose the long slow way. :)

Again, a big thank you to Mick who helped out again today to make sure I got the stuff done I needed to.

He took some pics, so hopefully he may post a few. I'll post a bit as I go about how it all goes. :)

[Chucaro]

All looks good, have a wonderful trip :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Ah, yes.
What a perfect picture
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92155d1427582591-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5003.jpg

Makes the 101 look small.

Notice the extended mirrors for towing.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92156d1427582613-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5004.jpg



The towbar.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92157d1427582634-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5005.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92158d1427582651-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5007.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92159d1427582683-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5008.jpg

That ain't gonna flex.

[Mick_Marsh]

Notice the digital voltmeter in the seat box. That was my job for the day.
Perfect, isn't it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Also in the seat box is the battery and inverter.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Up in the cupboard, near the external power connection socket is the switchboard.
It has a mains/inverter changeover switch and a ELCB that works in both circuits.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Dave, if you're reading this, I'll draw a connection diagram and post it in your thread.

[BigJon]

That caravan drawbar behind the Falcon broke where the bracing tapered off.

The caravan draw bar broke where there was welding done to a member under tension. Hence why you shouldn't weld to the bottom of a draw bar. Advice from a structural enginer.

[Mick_Marsh]

The caravan draw bar broke where there was welding done to a member under tension. Hence why you shouldn't weld to the bottom of a draw bar. Advice from a structural enginer.
It was advice from a structural engineer which led to the piece of flat being welded to the bottom of the draw bar.

That caravan drawbar behind the Falcon broke where the bracing tapered off. Would have been better to have taken the bracing closer to the end of the drawbar.
You'll notice bacicat's bracing is full length, from well under the van to well under the hitch.
No weak spots.

[Homestar]

It was advice from a structural engineer which led to the piece of flat being welded to the bottom of the draw bar.

You'll notice bacicat's bracing is full length, from well under the van to well under the hitch.
No weak spots.

Yep, note though that the bar is welded to one side of the box section. Welding across the underneath seems to be a no no, which is how most bracing is attached to most drawbars.

Time will tell if I got it right, but I'm not too concerned about its strength long term compared to a lot of other draw bars I've seen that are doing much more work than my 1,200kg light weight will do.

My mates 8 x 5 trailer weighs much more than this when loaded and it's only got a bit of 75 x 75 x 4mm angle iron on that.

[Homestar]

It was advice from a structural engineer which led to the piece of flat being welded to the bottom of the draw bar.

You'll notice bacicat's bracing is full length, from well under the van to well under the hitch.
No weak spots.

Note that the bar is welded to the side edge on the box section on mine. I think Jon is referring to welding across the bottom of the section, which mine doesn't do.

As Mick said, the advice I have for this whole job is a structural engineer who works for a very large multi national building company. Good enough advice for me. :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Yep, note though that the bar is welded to one side of the box section. Welding across the underneath seems to be a no no, which is how most bracing is attached to most drawbars.

Time will tell if I got it right, but I'm not too concerned about its strength long term compared to a lot of other draw bars I've seen that are doing much more work than my 1,200kg light weight will do.

My mates 8 x 5 trailer weighs much more than this when loaded and it's only got a bit of 75 x 75 x 4mm angle iron on that.
75 x 75 angle! I think that's what is on my van.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/83.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Viscount%20Caravan/DSC_4060.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/363.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Viscount%20Caravan/DSC_4059.jpg.html)

Nup. More like 45 x 75.
Oh! Look at that bracing.

[Chops]

75 x 75 angle! I think that's what is on my van.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/83.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Viscount%20Caravan/DSC_4060.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/363.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Viscount%20Caravan/DSC_4059.jpg.html)

Nup. More like 45 x 75.
Oh! Look at that bracing.


It's about time you pulled your finger out Mick and did some work on her ;)

[Homestar]

Jeez Mick, you need to do some gardening before you loose the whole van! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

It's about time you pulled your finger out Mick and did some work on her ;)
Jeez Mick, you need to do some gardening before you loose the whole van! :D
Right. You two have just volunteered to help.

Enjoy Melrose. We'll get stuck into it after.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Good luck with that!
After I've finished with the pair of them they'll need a month off!!:p:D

[Chops]

Right. You two have just volunteered to help.

Enjoy Melrose. We'll get stuck into it after.

Happy to come and help out dude :D


Good luck with that!
After I've finished with the pair of them they'll need a month off!!:p:D

:D Gooooooood, any excuse for more time off ;)

[DoubleChevron]

75 x 75 angle! I think that's what is on my van.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/83.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Viscount%20Caravan/DSC_4060.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/363.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Viscount%20Caravan/DSC_4059.jpg.html)

Nup. More like 45 x 75.
Oh! Look at that bracing.

Look how short the drawbar is too. The shorter the bar, the less strong it needs to be :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Look how short the drawbar is too. The shorter the bar, the less strong it needs to be :)
Yep. it doesn't concern me. It's lasted forty four years and it's in better condition than me.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

yea,, but what isnt?:angel::p

[Mick_Marsh]

yea,, but what isnt?:angel::p
I hear your "Preferred Suppliers" list of beer is unusable.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

its all this moving around---:mad:

[Mick_Marsh]

Notice the digital voltmeter in the seat box. That was my job for the day.
Perfect, isn't it.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92161d1427583700-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5012.jpg

Also in the seat box is the battery and inverter.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92162d1427583733-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5013.jpg

Up in the cupboard, near the external power connection socket is the switchboard.
It has a mains/inverter changeover switch and a ELCB that works in both circuits.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/trailers-vans-campers/92160d1427583677-drop-axle-caravan-dsc_5011.jpg

Dave, if you're reading this, I'll draw a connection diagram and post it in your thread.
To the best of my memory, this is how the van was wired.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Homestar]

Thanks Mick - very close. The neutral and active run through an RCD/MCB before going to the outlets.

[Mick_Marsh]

Thanks Mick - very close. The neutral and active run through an RCD/MCB before going to the outlets.
That is what that symbol means.
Yeah, ok, I'll tweak the diagram for those unfamiliar with AS 1102.107.

[Homestar]

Ah, right. I thought there would have been a break in the neutral too.

[Mick_Marsh]

For some industrial and mining applications, yes, but not for domestic.
You'll have noticed you would have wired one neutral conductor to the ELCB, or at least, most ELCBs only have one neutral conductor wired to them.

[Homestar]

Quick update. Been on the road 10 days now and the van is great. Only downside is trying to tow it in gale force winds with the 101 - not fun...

Anyway, down at Victor Harbor for a couple of nights glamping in a caravan park on a powered site (I know, but it does make a nice change having mains running water and being able to leave the TV and all the lights on. :D)

No real issues apart from the left side wheel arch leaks when driving in the rain - this caused my inverter to get quite wet, but it still works fine so I've relocated it for the time being. Also got a small leak at one end of the van when it poured the whole night on Monday evening. I haven't done the windows yet, so that's not too bad in my book.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I'm hearing ya about "those" winds:mad:


oh, and whadaya know?
your A-frame stayed attached!

Good Job!

[Homestar]

Glad it wasn't just us suffering on the way back from Melrose.

Did you find somewhere green to camp? We are in a lovely lush flood irrigated park for a couple of nights. :)

[Chops]

Yep, even I struggled, fuel economy wise, on the way back. :-o

[Homestar]

Well, made it home in one piece. :)

2,460KM in total and averaged 23.4 LPH towing with the 101. Pretty happy with everything, but still some work to be done. It will be taking a bit of a back seat for a couple of months while I sort out a few other things around the place now.

Got the RRC and Cam's series 3 to be cracking on with now. :)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Gee,, I thought the RRC was going?:angel::wasntme::p

[Homestar]

It is, but SWMBO seems to think it needs more than just a drivers seat for an interior for some reason....

Then there's the respray, winch and bar, new suspension, etc, etc....:D

Plenty to do.

[Chucaro]

Well, made it home in one piece. :)

2,460KM in total and averaged 23.4 LPH towing with the 101. Pretty happy with everything, but still some work to be done. It will be taking a bit of a back seat for a couple of months while I sort out a few other things around the place now.

Got the RRC and Cam's series 3 to be cracking on with now. :)

How you have managed to use 23.4 litres per hour :confused:
That was because the average speed was about 70 kph = 70 km done in 1 hour ?

I am worse then Ron :p

[Homestar]

How you have managed to use 23.4 litres per hour :confused:
That was because the average speed was about 70 kph = 70 km done in 1 hour ?

I am worse then Ron :p

Nice pick up - should have been LP100KM. :)

Although 70KPH wasn't far off the mark ;)

[Chucaro]

I guess that 23.4 per 100 it is not bad at all considering the brick shape of the 101 and the van.
I get that on the 3.9 without towing but then again I am a bit heavy on the foot :(

[Homestar]

Yeah, pretty happy with that. It does about 21's when I'm just hacking about in it carefully, or up to 28 with the OD I and thrashing it. When I'm towing with it, I treat things very nicely and let the vehicle do the speed it wants to do, rather than pushing it all the time.

On the freeway it sits on 90 no dramas as long as the road conditions are good. On B roads I tend to sit on about 80 which is nice and easy for it, even towing the van.

[Homestar]

Thought I'd update this as it's been a while. I use the van a fair bit and it is working really well. Still a lot to finish, but I bought something else for it...

Speaking to a friend the other day who has a small Jayco pop up caravan named 'The Wombat Hilton' he let slip he'd got something to 'one up' me on our next trip. So, not wanting to be outdone, I bought one too... :D

So, now mine 'The Wombat Marriott' as it's been dubbed will also have.....

Hot water....:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/8CB9C6D3-4B66-4A96-BE20-96CF6D88CBB1_zpsmf1mneiz.jpg.html)

[Mick_Marsh]

Thought I'd update this as it's been a while. I use the van a fair bit and it is working really well. Still a lot to finish, but I bought something else for it...

Speaking to a friend the other day who has a small Jayco pop up caravan named 'The Wombat Hilton' he let slip he'd got something to 'one up' me on our next trip. So, not wanting to be outdone, I bought one too... :D

So, now mine 'The Wombat Marriott' as it's been dubbed will also have.....

Hot water....:)
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/8CB9C6D3-4B66-4A96-BE20-96CF6D88CBB1_zpsmf1mneiz.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-09/8CB9C6D3-4B66-4A96-BE20-96CF6D88CBB1_zpsmf1mneiz.jpg.html)
John was demonstrating his to me on the weekend. He was making big noises how his is now better than yours.
John will be most upset.
Can't wait to tell him the news.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

wow! look at that-




























ropework:eek2:

[Homestar]

So, it's been a while since posting about this so I thought an update would be in order (and start a sentence with a conjunction ;)). I've done just over 5,000KM this year with the van and been out in it countless times now and it's all working very well. Some of the regulars I camp with have seen it many many times as I've turned soft now and don't camp in the 101 any more since putting this on the road.

I have been doing bits and pieces to it between outings - the latest of which is the ensuite area being almost finished - I need 1 more day to finish painting and sealing, but alas, I have run out of time before Christmas and the camping trip we are heading out on on boxing day.

So a few pics... (Oops - another)

The first of the windows have been removed, rebuilt and resealed. These 2 have black polycarbonite in them as this wall is now blanked off inside for the shower cubicle. The paint certainly needs doing soon - its rubs straight off with metho when cleaning up the PU (Yes, I used Poly Urathane to seal the window frames in - yes, they are there to stay forever, but they wont leak, and they will outlive the van now.)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/230.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/image.jpg2_zpstrukcmil.jpg.html)

And this is inside now - still needs 1 more coat of paint, the sealing between all the gaps doing and the return near the sink installing, but it's 95% of the way there now and fully usable. The HWS mounts to the front of the van once we are on site and works a treat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/231.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-12/68D150C3-5A45-492B-A94A-5FF97CEFC2F2_zpsnn9kdm3f.jpg.html)

The shower rail and curtain is exactly the look I was after :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/232.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-12/06A3E41A-1232-476D-8350-E8B29B1A8792_zpstqpdj5vn.jpg.html)

For those going to Wombat on Boxing Day you can check it out in person - and even use it if you bring your own water - the HWS runs off its own supply that can be topped up at the front of the van. :)

[Corgie Carrier]

Great thread, Gav.

I just read the whole thing and you have done a lot of work to your van. How long is your van?

I just bought a 1973 Roma 15ft 6in van to use next year when I go north for work. It sits on one hell of an angle behind the disco because of the drop axle, what did you pay for the axle assembly you got?

I also noticed that your under floor is not painted or water proofed in any way, like mine, are you going to do anything to waterproof the floor? My floor is a little soft, so I am going to put some ply on top to stiffen it up a bit for now. I would like to replace it but I am unemployed AGAIN:mad::mad: as of last Tuesday, so money will be tight till I get another job, or until I start the cane harvest at the start of May.

Where did you get your roof hatch?

Keep up the good work, I'll be watching closely for ideas.

[Chucaro]

Neale, I also restoring a Franklin Arrow and replaced the drop axle.
I think that it is a good idea.
Because i have 3 brand new tyres I left the 13" rims and brakes but if I have to do it again I will upgrade to 14" rims and tyres on Ford bearings.
This will improve the weight cargo capacity of the van.
Regarding the plywood floor before you go north get some oil based decking oil and give the ply on the need few coats.
My son, also restoring his old Millard and in his YouTube page you will see several videos of the work that have been done in both caravans.

The videos are here:

Rover Tasmania (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w)

[Corgie Carrier]

Neale, I also restoring a Franklin Arrow and replaced the drop axle.
I think that it is a good idea.
Because i have 3 brand new tyres I left the 13" rims and brakes but if I have to do it again I will upgrade to 14" rims and tyres on Ford bearings.
This will improve the weight cargo capacity of the van.
Regarding the plywood floor before you go north get some oil based decking oil and give the ply on the need few coats.
My son, also restoring his old Millard and in his YouTube page you will see several videos of the work that have been done in both caravans.

The videos are here:

Rover Tasmania (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w)

Thanks for the ideas about oiling the floor, but mine is a bit beyond that stage. I am going to cover the bottom of the floor in a spray on body deadener (I have heaps in the shed) and that will have to do for now.

When I picked up the van from near Frankston, I checked the date on the spare tyre, it was 14 1995. :eek::eek:

I drove it very carefully to my mum's house and bought some new tyres (I think I paid too much, but I needed them). So now I have them, I will be staying with them, but getting new rims because mine are rusty and I don't trust them to get to FNQ.

The axle is a must as the rear of the van sits too close to the road, even with my drop hitch. I have a weight distribution hitch I would like to use for the long trip, but the van will probably scrape the rear on the road.

It is a steep learning curve as I have never owned a van before.

Do your vans have insulation in the roof or walls? Mine has none in the roof.:(

[Chucaro]

.................................................. .......
Do your vans have insulation in the roof or walls? Mine has none in the roof.:(

The Franklin has foam sandwich construction so it has insulation.
The Millard has aluminium frame and I am not sure if it has foam in between the aluminium cladding and the inside lining.
Few mwmbwrs here are also members of the Classic Caravans forum (http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com/)
When you have time visit the site, there is a lot of info there and a great bunch of people willing to help.

[Homestar]

Great thread, Gav.

I just read the whole thing and you have done a lot of work to your van. How long is your van?

I just bought a 1973 Roma 15ft 6in van to use next year when I go north for work. It sits on one hell of an angle behind the disco because of the drop axle, what did you pay for the axle assembly you got?

I also noticed that your under floor is not painted or water proofed in any way, like mine, are you going to do anything to waterproof the floor? My floor is a little soft, so I am going to put some ply on top to stiffen it up a bit for now. I would like to replace it but I am unemployed AGAIN:mad::mad: as of last Tuesday, so money will be tight till I get another job, or until I start the cane harvest at the start of May.

Where did you get your roof hatch?

Keep up the good work, I'll be watching closely for ideas.

Hi Neale, sorry to hear about your job :( but to answer some of your questions - my van is around 16' long and 7'6" wide (very wide) so similar in length to yours. The axle I used is a one piece heavy duty unit running ford bearings and gives a 1,400Kg rating. My van was already running 14" rims, so the LT tyres I've fitted are rated to 925Kg each. This gives me a good fudge factor above what it actually weighs - which is 1260Kg over the axle and 150Kg on the draw bar for a gross mass of 1410Kg. This was weighed fully loaded, 2 full gas bottles, full water tank, food and clothing for a week, so I know this is my maximum weight.

Cost of the axle, with new over ride brakes was around $400 IIRC, but it could have been a bit more, I really can't remember and I don't keep receipts. Fitting this, and using slightly higher profile tyres gave me a lift of nearly 5 inches from where it used to be - a real arse dragger. Now I have plenty of clearance, and it tows level, even behind the 101 and other 4wd. (Actually was towing it home with the 101 today from Wombat) :)

The timber floor on mine is the factory floor and is in reasonable condition. I have no plans to replace the floor or to paint the underside for the time being. My theory here is that it has lasted more than 40 years without being painted, so I'm not going to add weight down there for no appreciable gain. It has only been towed in the rain once since I've owned it, so it doesn't get wet very often. I still have sections of the chassis to clean and paint yet, but that's about it.

Your van probably isn't insulated - as Chucaro said, Franklin vans are made of a composite material with a foam core, so they are by their very design. Insulation keeps the condensation out and is worth doing IF you're going to pull any wall sheeting off. Insulation does very little in keeping a van cool when it's hot, or vice versa, so if you're going to be living in it when you take it North, fitting an AC would be a good idea if you're camping where there is power.

Head over to the Classic Caravan Forum - http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com - and have a look around and start a thread up on yours - there are heaps of good people there (Including a few of us from here :) ) that will be able to offer other advice.

If you're up for more reading, the full rebuild of my van is there - all 240 odd posts - http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com/thread/2558/new-old-75-franklin

I update this thread with more detail. And more often than I do with this one.

[Homestar]

And for a bit of an update about the van, the shower was great and there is plenty of room on it. The HWS is a bit of a bitch to get set properly, I found the temps changed day to day so adjustment was needed each time we used the shower, but I'm getting my head around that, and for what it cost, I can live with it. It did a power of work over the last few days as it supplied hot water for others to shower with, and did really well all in all.

A quick shower uses around 3 litres, and a full shower, and washing your hair (well, my hair) takes around 7 to 8 litres, so I'm pretty happy with that. We topped up the shower tank (it's just a 20 litre drum at the front of the van) from the local mineral spring a couple of times so we were showering in mineral water the last couple of days - did I say I like Glamping? :D

[Corgie Carrier]

Hi Neale, sorry to hear about your job :( but to answer some of your questions - my van is around 16' long and 7'6" wide (very wide) so similar in length to yours. The axle I used is a one piece heavy duty unit running ford bearings and gives a 1,400Kg rating. My van was already running 14" rims, so the LT tyres I've fitted are rated to 925Kg each. This gives me a good fudge factor above what it actually weighs - which is 1260Kg over the axle and 150Kg on the draw bar for a gross mass of 1410Kg. This was weighed fully loaded, 2 full gas bottles, full water tank, food and clothing for a week, so I know this is my maximum weight.

Thanks Gav, my van is 15'6" by 6'10", so very narrow. I almost don't need extended mirrors as I can see about 20m past the van and if I give it a wiggle (a truckies trick) I can see behind me easy. I had to buy tyres urgently because it was hot and I had to drive from Frankston back here, and didn't have time to look around for the best bargain. My tyres are rated to 760kg each so if I get an axle like yours I am still OK.

Cost of the axle, with new over ride brakes was around $400 IIRC, but it could have been a bit more, I really can't remember and I don't keep receipts. Fitting this, and using slightly higher profile tyres gave me a lift of nearly 5 inches from where it used to be - a real arse dragger. Now I have plenty of clearance, and it tows level, even behind the 101 and other 4wd. (Actually was towing it home with the 101 today from Wombat) :)

I have found a similar axle to your pic for $460 down in Braeside, so that should give me about 4" lift. Mine drags it's arse as well and the water tank is more round shape than flat and the outlet is about 130mm off the ground.

The timber floor on mine is the factory floor and is in reasonable condition. I have no plans to replace the floor or to paint the underside for the time being. My theory here is that it has lasted more than 40 years without being painted, so I'm not going to add weight down there for no appreciable gain. It has only been towed in the rain once since I've owned it, so it doesn't get wet very often. I still have sections of the chassis to clean and paint yet, but that's about it.

After walking around in mine for the last couple of days, I am going to have to remove the open area floor and fit some new ply. At one stage today I thought I was going to go through the floor. Don't know if I will paint it or not yet.

Your van probably isn't insulated - as Chucaro said, Franklin vans are made of a composite material with a foam core, so they are by their very design. Insulation keeps the condensation out and is worth doing IF you're going to pull any wall sheeting off. Insulation does very little in keeping a van cool when it's hot, or vice versa, so if you're going to be living in it when you take it North, fitting an AC would be a good idea if you're camping where there is power.

If the insulation doesn't keep the van cooler, then I won't bother fitting the insulation, just more work. It looks like it has had a lot of condensation as the corner timber is water damaged. So I might fix that up and then leave it as is. I have plans of using a portable air conditioner while up north, they are good for about 22sqm, so should cool the van pretty well.

Head over to the Classic Caravan Forum - Home | Classic Caravans (http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com) - and have a look around and start a thread up on yours - there are heaps of good people there (Including a few of us from here :) ) that will be able to offer other advice.

I spent most of yesterday over there looking around, only two posts on Roma vans. :(:( Read the whole lot of millard1399's rebuild of his van, that was amazing. :o:o I did notice a few of the same user names from here.

If you're up for more reading, the full rebuild of my van is there - all 240 odd posts - My new (old) '75 Franklin. | Classic Caravans (http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com/thread/2558/new-old-75-franklin)

I'll check that one out, I like your shower mod

I update this thread with more detail. And more often than I do with this one.

----

[Corgie Carrier]

And for a bit of an update about the van, the shower was great and there is plenty of room on it. The HWS is a bit of a bitch to get set properly, I found the temps changed day to day so adjustment was needed each time we used the shower, but I'm getting my head around that, and for what it cost, I can live with it. It did a power of work over the last few days as it supplied hot water for others to shower with, and did really well all in all.

A quick shower uses around 3 litres, and a full shower, and washing your hair (well, my hair) takes around 7 to 8 litres, so I'm pretty happy with that. We topped up the shower tank (it's just a 20 litre drum at the front of the van) from the local mineral spring a couple of times so we were showering in mineral water the last couple of days - did I say I like Glamping? :D

So with all my hair it would take the full 20lt, maybe more.:D:D

[Corgie Carrier]

The Franklin has foam sandwich construction so it has insulation.
The Millard has aluminium frame and I am not sure if it has foam in between the aluminium cladding and the inside lining.
Few mwmbwrs here are also members of the Classic Caravans forum (http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com/)
When you have time visit the site, there is a lot of info there and a great bunch of people willing to help.

Joined the caravan forum and made a post in the general section under the user name "Reluctantvanner":D

You can check out the ebay ad pics, until I work out how to get the pics off my SD card.

[Chucaro]

Joined the caravan forum and made a post in the general section under the user name "Reluctantvanner":D

You can check out the ebay ad pics, until I work out how to get the pics off my SD card.

You are welcome mate, I am there as Gitano. :)

[Chucaro]

IMO specially in Qld the best shower system is one of these painted in black.
Just fill it to 1/3 with water and leave it on the sun to heat the water and when ready pop it up with cold water. It is one of the best ways to administrate water.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/948.jpg

Fit one of this and will be set

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/949.jpg

[Tank]

IMO specially in Qld the best shower system is one of these painted in black.
Just fill it to 1/3 with water and leave it on the sun to heat the water and when ready pop it up with cold water. It is one of the best ways to administrate water.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/948.jpg

Fit one of this and will be set

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/949.jpg
It also makes a great fire extinguisher for grass caught up under the car, round the mufflers as a dry powder will not put out a smouldering grass fire, also use mine to flush the Porta-Potti instead of the useless flush system

[Homestar]

Thought I'd post a quick update on the van as it's been a few months. The van's now been on the road over a year and I've worked out we spent over 30 nights in it in that time and towed it over 8,000KM, so not a bad effort considering it's not finished. :)

Anyway, just recently I decided to remove the old bed and seating area as the bed was made by some previous owner out of chipboard - which weighed in at 67KG when I removed it! The seating area was just plain uncomfortable and the width of the seat was too small. The new seat is 100mm wider at the base, and a straigh 3 seater couch now, not an L shape. Pics below show where I'm at as of tonight - pretty much finished the seating are, new paint, down lights - Mick, let John know he has something else to catch up on now.:D. Also the batteries and inverter were repositioned and rewired. Still have to recover the seats, I'll post pics once I do this.

So, just the bed area to go now and the interior will be close to how we want it. Then all I need to do is reseal the rest of the windows and paint the outside - hopefully I'll have it done by this time next year. :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/521.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/D19B7E91-0FB8-4D5C-A84D-2A05D374507F_zpsgkmdhd0x.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/522.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/D4532C98-8D44-4B62-B431-94144C8FD7F0_zpsr9nth1hs.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/523.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/39656F8E-AE70-43C0-96AC-8CA4F047D0E6_zpsfrc2ekft.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/524.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-04/33009BE2-02E1-45B1-BB3F-46AF5198E718_zpsbkuyl6ww.jpg.html)

[Chucaro]

Looks nice , it will be more comfy that with the original dinette seat.

[Mick_Marsh]

Er... John won't be happy. Just last night we were discussing ways he could be up on you.

We'll have to get the campers out for a night at Firth Park. Another dinner at The Pig and Whistle. May 21 me thinks.

[Homestar]

Er... John won't be happy. Just last night we were discussing ways he could be up on you.

We'll have to get the campers out for a night at Firth Park. Another dinner at The Pig and Whistle. May 21 me thinks.

That could work, I'll check with Yvonne to see if she has anything planned. That's assuming I have everything back together by then... Still got to build the bed base again. Apart from that, the rest of the van should be close to finished inside. Ensuite should be all tidied up too, that's tomorrows job with a bit of luck.

Not sure if I'll have any other features to annoy John - I'll have to think of something ...

Oh, you haven't seen the outside step lights yet either have you? They're pretty cool too. ;)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

needs LR symbol like RR puddle lamps:p

[Homestar]

That's pretty much what they are. :). Mounted under the van, one each side of the step - 2 Land Rover logos projected onto the ground.

[Homestar]

Something to update finally. Not with the van itself - we just use it and enjoy it, but I thought I'd share my (very poor) video from my new drone I took of the Summer camp site the vans been at.

I've had it at the inlaws place for a couple of months now as I've been visiting them regularly and I prefer not to spend every waking minute in the house with them (and I'm sure the feelings mutual):D

This footage was taken with a Mobius camera hanging off my Tarot 680 pro Hex. This is the first footage I shot with it and I've since ironed out a few bugs from the gimbal settings and how the camera is mounted to it that has drastically reduced the wobble it has. The gimbal also kicks a few times due to how the FPV Wiring is run, and I'm working on this too.

Yes, a DJI Phantom 3 and onwards would run rings around this as it currently sits, but my long term plan is to have a DSLR hanging under it for some really good pics from the sky, or a much better video camera when I can afford it - I currently have 8 spare channels on my transmitter so plenty of scope to expand its capabilities later on as I can afford it.

Turn the volume down as it's just the drone making a noise - I had no music on my computer to dub over this. It's also my first edited video so go easy on my production. :D

https://youtu.be/TeDIeweC8M0

[rangieman]

Something to update finally. Not with the van itself - we just use it and enjoy it, but I thought I'd share my (very poor) video from my new drone I took of the Summer camp site the vans been at.

I've had it at the inlaws place for a couple of months now as I've been visiting them regularly and I prefer not to spend every waking minute in the house with them (and I'm sure the feelings mutual):D

This footage was taken with a Mobius camera hanging off my Tarot 680 pro Hex. This is the first footage I shot with it and I've since ironed out a few bugs from the gimbal settings and how the camera is mounted to it that has drastically reduced the wobble it has. The gimbal also kicks a few times due to how the FPV Wiring is run, and I'm working on this too.

Yes, a DJI Phantom 3 and onwards would run rings around this as it currently sits, but my long term plan is to have a DSLR hanging under it for some really good pics from the sky, or a much better video camera when I can afford it - I currently have 8 spare channels on my transmitter so plenty of scope to expand its capabilities later on as I can afford it.

Turn the volume down as it's just the drone making a noise - I had no music on my computer to dub over this. It's also my first edited video so go easy on my production. :D

https://youtu.be/TeDIeweC8M0

Where,s Wally :p,
Think i saw him at 2.50 min:eek:

[Homestar]

Yep, well spotted. :D

Someone has to be flying it. (Well, they do by law, it's quite capable of flying all on its own).

[pop058]

Yep, well spotted. :D

Someone has to be flying it. (Well, they do by law, it's quite capable of flying all on its own).

Why is that Gav ??

[Homestar]

The new CASA regulations around flying drones says so - they must be in line of sight of the person controlling the drone (if you're wearing FPV goggles you technically need a spotter to keep an eye on the aircraft), and the drone must be under the control of a person. Auto flying from start to finish using way points, etc is not technically allowed at the hobbyist level - you need a licence and very expensive insurance to legally do this. The rest of the main rules are:-

Fly below 400' (121 metres)
Don't fly within 3.5 nautical miles (5KM) of an airport
Don't fly within 30 metres of another person
Don't fly in a populated area
FPV a transmitters not more than 40mW

There's heaps more, but this covers most of it.

Nothing to get in too much of a twist about, but there are plenty out there almighty ****ed off with these rules. They actually are quite leanient and well thought out when compared with other parts of the world who have just banned them outright in any public place, or put severe restrictions on them like not flying them further than 30 meters from the pilot.

For what I want - filming and taking pictures of camping areas, etc I don't have an issue and when you think of what could happen if your nearly 4KG drone fell out of the sky and hit someone, then they make complete sense.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

so if they fly themselves--
how do they fall out of the sky?
pilot error?:p

[Homestar]

Nope, cheap Chinese electronics mostly. In almost all hobby drones, there is no backup of any kind so if a motor, ESC or flight controller gets a fault, it's curtains, and it happens a lot.

There are some very good flight controllers out there if you have the money, you can buy fully redundant setups, but building a drone to this spec will cost $5K plus, usually around $8 to $10K - that's before you bolt a camera to it. I was chatting to a guy not long ago at the local RC Club that has a similar sized hex to mine and flies it professionally - the drone was $9K, the camera just under $100K (Movie quality HD thing used for filming work that helicopters used to do). You want to make sure something like that stays up, :D

It's the Hobbist that is most likely to crash theirs into something/someone and I've got to say, by the time they get as big as mine is, that would cause serious injury or even death - not pretty, so I fully agree with the laws about keeping them away from people, I always do just in case.

[Homestar]

Paint has made its way onto the outside of the van finally. Only one side done so far, but this has spurred me on to get the rest done.

4 coats of white, with a bright orange strip to take it back to the 70's where it came from. :)

Then a bit of chrome pin striping and you get...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/6.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-02/303DBBD8-A531-451C-A613-DAEA4B71D4B2_zpslymcm20u.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/7.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-02/A5C4F45F-29FF-4232-A17F-F0B3687149CA_zpsnq0rhvew.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/8.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-02/8A4AF40E-9893-47F0-9DD4-F06A8506385E_zpsqejnnpgv.jpg.html)

[rangieman]

Well done Gav keep up the good work[biggrin]

[Homestar]

A final update. Some may know that the Franklin was going on the market since I bought the Viscount. Well, a bitter sweet day today with the deposit from the new owner landing in account.

It will be heading to Sunny Queensland in about 3 weeks. Will be sad to see it go, we've had a lot of fun init, but it's time to move onwards and upwards.

A couple of pics of how it ended up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/554.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JdY8Lv)4D1DA053-DD36-4753-9775-C534E7098ACA (https://flic.kr/p/JdY8Lv) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/555.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Dq1u5e)698762A5-59E8-4E7F-8A5F-2BC8FC5BDEE6 (https://flic.kr/p/Dq1u5e) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

New owner has paid me to put the front bunks back in as they have kids, so a bit of work to finish off but it will make a cracking little van for the new owners.

[rangieman]

Wow on the road again well done mate [thumbsupbig]that thing is sure getting around now [bighmmm]

[pop058]

A vacant space pending on the driveway. Oooo, the possibilities [bigwhistle]

[Mick_Marsh]

A vacant space pending on the driveway. Oooo, the possibilities [bigwhistle]
I wonder how he is going to back the Viscount in there?

[Homestar]

A vacant space pending on the driveway. Oooo, the possibilities [bigwhistle]

As Mick said, no room to spare. As soon as this goes, a larger van - the 19' Viscount - will take up residence there. Hope it fits, it will be a tight squeeze... 😁

Details here - Homestar's new home? (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-and-campers/256647-homestars-new-home.html)

Van is longer, but draw bar is much shorter so I think it's only around 18"longer all up which will just stop pedestrians on the footpath shinning themselves on the hitch if my calculations are correct.

[Homestar]

Only a few loose ends to tie up now. New owner wants it on a transport in a couple of weeks so I've been finishing up all the things I need to do. Pics tell the story better - the new owner paid me to reinstall the bunks so did that too and finished off the outside.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/944.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Jz6GdF)D5D37862-49FD-4747-9AA4-5FD3AD752E72 (https://flic.kr/p/Jz6GdF) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/945.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23vY4r4)4B37F6CE-13F1-4661-8323-16CE373FE2F1 (https://flic.kr/p/23vY4r4) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/946.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23vY4f2)28D86F59-05A1-4ACC-8425-43DC45443472 (https://flic.kr/p/23vY4f2) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

After painting the back, found it was a bit too white, so did a bit of inprov on it. 👍

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/947.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23GfpHL)C0F75466-2A50-43E8-9462-2113A0EB928E (https://flic.kr/p/23GfpHL) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/948.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23GfpMJ)B7991BD4-8DB1-49FF-8DF4-CB3B76E098D4 (https://flic.kr/p/23GfpMJ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/949.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23GfpzE)E8CE78A1-9F0C-4B26-B6D0-C7272B99983A (https://flic.kr/p/23GfpzE) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[rar110]

Nice looking van. Queen with a set of bunks is hard to find.

[Homestar]

Thanks - got a good quid for it and the new owner is in Townsville - he's been looking for some time for the right van, mine fit the bill thankfully. 👍

[Homestar]

As a finish up to this thread this van is now in Townsville with the new owner. He loves it and it has been on its first trip with the new family. As I'll probably never see it again, there's not much more to add - if he starts posting on the classic caravan forum about it, I'll link that in.