Running rough and lacking power

[mtb_gary]

This one's got me stumped :confused:

Over the past couple of weeks the car has started running really rough and gulping down petrol like there's no tomorrow.

The car is a 1996 GEMS 4.6 petrol only (no LPG)

Symptoms, running rough, low irregular idle speed, struggles up to around 3000 RPM then appears to run smoother, very rich exhaust smell.

* I have hooked up the Faultmate FCR and no errors are detected.
* I have removed all of the spark plugs and they all appear the same black sooty appearance of an engine running too rich, but thankfully they are all the same!
* I cleaned the MAF sensor just in case it was giving false readings - no change
* As a long shot I plugged in the Bluetooth OBD11 and turned on the Torque Pro App. And it shows "open loop due to insufficient temperature". After driving for an hour in 35+?C there was ample time to get up to temperature!
89921
* I have checked the temperature sensor output and the voltage varies with the engine warming up to eventually sit at around 1v at operating temp (as per RAVE).

What else can be checked that could be causing the problem?

Gary

[bee utey]

Check the fuel pressure regulator isn't dumping fuel into the inlet manifold via its vacuum hose. This is a relatively common problem. Without oxygen sensors your ECU cannot detect over fuelling.

[PeterH]

Maybe try cleaning the MAF sensor electrical connector plug with contact cleaner.
Could also be a faulty maf, do you have access to a known good one you could swap over?

[mtb_gary]

Thanks guys. I'll let you know the outcome

Gary

[Hoges]

Check the fuel pressure regulator isn't dumping fuel into the inlet manifold via its vacuum hose. This is a relatively common problem. Without oxygen sensors your ECU cannot detect over fuelling.

x2 ...the rich exhaust smell and irregular running at lower revs is a sure sign... initially like the over use of a manual choke in an "old" car,:angel: In this case however, as revs increase, the availability of more air compensates somewhat for the over fuelling... hence the tendency towards smoother running over 3,000 rpm...

[blindin]

Hi Gary,
Guessing you've tried the obvious - blocked air filter?
How about an air leak somewhere, although this would normally then run weak, but an easy check with a can of spray.
If it is down on power, the excess fuel maybe from just being heavy footed, so maybe sending you off down the wrong path.
I can't remember what mines like, but is it running on a dizzy, or is it coil packs like the later?
Could it be something silly like the timing?
I've got the nanocom if you want to try that.

[DaveA1963]

My "new" D2 has similar symptoms and they found two faulty oxygen sensors when I had it serviced. Hopefully these will fix my problem when they arrive & are installed. :)

[DaveA1963]

Check the fuel pressure regulator isn't dumping fuel into the inlet manifold via its vacuum hose. This is a relatively common problem. Without oxygen sensors your ECU cannot detect over fuelling.


What's the fix for this particular problem with the fuel pressure regulator?

I'll probably mention it to my mechanic if the new oxygen sensors don't do the trick.

[PhilipA]

To me the most likely cause is simply that the water temperature sensor has gone high resistance either because of a dirty contact or stuffed sensor. This confirmed by the error message. The only way the ECU knows the temperature is from the sensor. It doesn't matter if its 50C outside!LOL

Try a new sensor first. Just to confirm AFAIR there should be 300 Ohms resistance at 82C plus so if it is 1000 Ohms or whatever, the choke is still on.

Regards Philip A

[bee utey]

What's the fix for this particular problem with the fuel pressure regulator?

I'll probably mention it to my mechanic if the new oxygen sensors don't do the trick.
A 1996 P38 doesn't have oxygen sensors and a D2 doesn't have an underbonnet fuel pressure regulator so the fixes are totally unrelated.

[DaveA1963]

A 1996 P38 doesn't have oxygen sensors and a D2 doesn't have an underbonnet fuel pressure regulator so the fixes are totally unrelated.


Thanks mate!

So, does my issue sound like the oxygen sensors? It's got one faulty one on one bank (exhaust manifold) & the other in the catalytic converter apparently.

[mtb_gary]

I've just changed the fuel pressure regulator and unfortunately no change whatsoever. Simon I might take you up on the offer and call past during next week and see if your Nanocom can isolate the problem. My Nanocom FCR Does not recognize any faults in the car. Is your Nanocom licensed for more than 1 vehicle? Hopefully it will be a relatively cheap and easy fix.
Just as a side comment. Replacing the fuel pressure regulator is like many other RR items fairly simple once everything around it is removed or moved out of the way. Accessing one of the retaining bolts is a PITA. The top one is straightforward, but don't get lulled into a false sense of security, the bottom one is hidden in front of the coil pack providing access only for very small hands! Unfortunately I have relatively large hands :mad:

Gary

[Hoges]

To me the most likely cause is simply that the water temperature sensor has gone high resistance either because of a dirty contact or stuffed sensor. This confirmed by the error message. The only way the ECU knows the temperature is from the sensor. It doesn't matter if its 50C outside!LOL

Try a new sensor first. Just to confirm AFAIR there should be 300 Ohms resistance at 82C plus so if it is 1000 Ohms or whatever, the choke is still on.

Regards Philip A

Edit: there's no open/closed loop because it has no Oxygen sensors to provide feedback
There are three temperature sensors: air intake temp sensor, coolant temp sensor and fuel temp sensor (into the rail)... The fuel temp sensor is especially sensitive..
which one did you check?

U/S sensors would normally throw a code (as listed in RAVE):confused:

,,,not sure if this is relevant...Have you checked the Positive crankcase ventilation hoses from the rocker covers for blockages?

[mtb_gary]

Crankcase hoses all appear clear and unblocked, and crack free.
Looking at Torque app I can see:
air intake temp around 38
Coolant temp 86
No readout that I can find for fuel temp

Not sure if it's relevant but ambient temperature is showing as -(minus)40 in the Torque app but correct on the dashboard HEVAC panel at 32

Gary

[blindin]

I have it unlocked for the p38, but not engine management side of things. I can pick up basic stuff, but not really looked into it any deeper.
Your welcome to come and try.

[TheTree]

Hi

Just a basic suggestion here, have you removed one or two of the plugs from each bank and examined them?

That may at least tell you if both banks are rich or only one and may help you narrow things down.

It could also be a failing ECU if all the sensors check out OK

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Steve

One of my first tests when it started running rough was to remove all plugs. Good news there was that they all looked a very similar dark sooty colour. is the Colour you expect when running too rich. Which is also backed up by fuel consumption of around 20 l/100k. Just as well fuel is relatively cheap ATM;)

Simon

I don't think your Nanocom is going to find anything without the engine management unlocked. As I mentioned earlier I have the Nanocom FCR and no error codes are being produced.

Gary

[TheTree]

Steve

One of my first tests when it started running rough was to remove all plugs. Good news there was that they all looked a very similar dark sooty colour. is the Colour you expect when running too rich. Which is also backed up by fuel consumption of around 20 l/100k. Just as well fuel is relatively cheap ATM;)
Gary

I thought you would have done that, but it was worth asking!

Do you have a fuel pressure tester? It may be that the fuel pressure regulator is failing and over fueling

BTW I am getting 17l/100K with a good engine etc !

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Steve

I just replaced the fuel pressure regulator yesterday, I too was hoping that was the fix. As for fuel, yes I would normally see figures around 16-18 l/100k around town. At present I am doing non peak hour and mainly freeway travel where I would previously been getting 13-15 l/100k. Also replaced yesterday in its routine service was the fuel filter, pollen filters, the air filter is also about to be changed as part of the service but unfortunately the filter was damaged in transit when it arrived. One phone call to TRspares and a new one is being sent as a replacement.

Gary

[TheTree]

Gary

Just a thought, but have you reset the adaptive values since you changed all those various bits?

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Some good news at last.....shhh I dont want to speak too loudly in case the problem hasn't really been fixed. After removing the rocker cover to remove the PCV valve (it was stuck) I can verify that the valve was clear and clean. However after putting everything back together I did a quick once over again of the engine bay. It appears in my refitting of the bits yesterday I neglected to put one of the connectors back in. And that connector just happened to be the MAF sensor :wallbash::wallbash:
Once connected a quick drive around the block is providing encouraging results.

Steve, I have never reset adaptive values since owning the car some 6 years ago. None of my tools allow for the resetting. That's a WIP. But yes after replacing the regulator I probably should.

Gary

[TheTree]

Gary

You can reset the adaptive values by removing both the battery terminals and holding them together for about 30 sec

It looks as if you have fixed it though, great news:)

Steve

[Hoges]

Am not sure there are any adaptive values to reset given that there are no Oxygen sensors to provide feedback to trim the default settings in the engine ECU fuel map.... happy to stand corrected;)

[TheTree]

Hoges you may well be correct !

[Shirley]

Like Bluey said, there is no O2 sensors on the 96 model.
I lent my computer the one of our Gosford members that I sold my other Rangie to.
The donor car was running perfect at the time but when I got the computer back the engine now runs rough, rich and at about 3,000RPM to compensate for the extra fuel it is guzzling.
There is a possibility that my friend may have altered the mapping with his new system analyser to make it suit his EMS/ECU and it may need remapping again to suit my system. The damned thing are ultra touchy.
The only other things that can cause problems are the MAF and the Throttle position sensor. Both of these I have changed but the problem still haunts me.
With the BECM, even a dull connection between the ECU and the inputs can cause the fault so please check all of the plugs in the ECU just in case.
After that and if all else fails, the ECU and BECM may require remapping of the fuel mixture settings. It seems like the system is staying in COLD START position.

Good luck Gaz,
Shirley..

1 - P38A 1995
1 - Discovery 2 / 2000
1 - L322 / M62 2003 mod
1 - XJS Jaguar V12 1988 HE.

Gotta love Pommie stresses.......:censored:

[mtb_gary]

Maybe I spoke a bit too soon. OK, fuel consumption on a 90k round trip with not too much traffic to contend with, is back around 17l/100k when driving conservatively, which is the really good news :D. Bad news is that once warmed up the idle is very low at around 550 rpm whilst in Drive and food on brake. In Neutral idle speed increases up to the anticipated ~700 rpm. Acceleration is improved but still feels like it's misfiring up until it gets up around 3000 rpm.

Still no error codes being displayed on the FCR

Gary

[Keithy P38]

Time for new plugs and leads hey ;-) or could be a coil pack on its way out

[mtb_gary]

Time for new plugs and leads hey ;-) or could be a coil pack on its way out

Could wel be Keith!plugs were changed last year with the platinum, so theoretically should be ok. Leads, around 3 years...possibly. Coils, a definite possibility.

Gary

[Hoges]

Presuming you have re-checked that H/T leads are connected to coils and plugs securely and in correct order...just asking:angel:
Platinum plugs should last at least 80 thousand km and three yr old H/T leads if clean, should be OK as well... need to check the coil pack for burning and tracking.

EDIT: another thought occurred to me:

How many km do you have on the current engine? If it is over 200K km in "original" condition, there's a strong possibility that the timing chain has stretched sufficiently to alter the valve timing and cause problems including running rich etc because the EFI pulses are out of proper sequence with valve timing... which may be more significant at low revs... mine was "sloppy as" at 140k km... I am not sure how you could physically test this without removing the front cover... in which case you might as well do the water pump if it hasn't been done already...oh and the oil pump and....

[TheTree]

Am not sure there are any adaptive values to reset given that there are no Oxygen sensors to provide feedback to trim the default settings in the engine ECU fuel map.... happy to stand corrected;)

The nanocom docs seem to suggest that the MAF, temperature sensors and other things play a part in the this, not just the O2 sensors

Certainly resetting the adaptive values cannot do any harm

Steve

[TheTree]

Like Bluey said, there is no O2 sensors on the 96 model.
I lent my computer the one of our Gosford members that I sold my other Rangie to.
The donor car was running perfect at the time but when I got the computer back the engine now runs rough, rich and at about 3,000RPM to compensate for the extra fuel it is guzzling.
There is a possibility that my friend may have altered the mapping with his new system analyser to make it suit his EMS/ECU and it may need remapping again to suit my system. The damned thing are ultra touchy.
The only other things that can cause problems are the MAF and the Throttle position sensor. Both of these I have changed but the problem still haunts me.
With the BECM, even a dull connection between the ECU and the inputs can cause the fault so please check all of the plugs in the ECU just in case.
After that and if all else fails, the ECU and BECM may require remapping of the fuel mixture settings. It seems like the system is staying in COLD START position.



Gotta love Pommie stresses.......:censored:

Hi Shirl

I thought you had that car sorted out

The nanocom cannot adjust the fuel maps so nothing was touched there. It can adjust the default throttle position sensor.

Also that ECU was in the car before I fitted the O2 sensors, it was teie because the original ECU would not read the MAF signals.

Since it was the TPS causing the problem that is where I would be concentrating, especially if it has been replaced

Have you taken the car for a drive and given it full throttle once or twice so it can re-calibrate the TPS positions? I found that sorted out the fast idle speed in my car.

I also have a spare ECU here which you could try

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Steve

That makes sense, as I am driving around 150k per day it seems to be improving.....or am I just getting used to it :angel:

Gary

[Hoges]

The nanocom docs seem to suggest that the MAF, temperature sensors and other things play a part in the this, not just the O2 sensors

Certainly resetting the adaptive values cannot do any harm

Steve

Ummm.. there are no "adaptive values" to reset on the GEMS system.
Prior to the Bosch Motronic system the GEMS fuel maps were developed over hundreds of hours using a dyno and real life testing plugged into an exhaust gas analyser. The database of fuel map values for a given set of conditions associated with the sensors above, were then laboriously fiddled with based on what the exhaust gas analyser was telling the engineers to get the optimum fuel burn. Hence Arctic cold weather /African desert hot weather etc etc

with the bosch motronic system, the incorporation of oxygen sensors did away with the need to drag around an exhaust gas analyser... the system gets the feedback instantaneously and through an "adaptive learning" mechanism plugs new "trimmed" values into the EMS databank for its closed loop operation... like a constant fine tuning exercise.

Resetting these values essentially deletes all the trimmed values, the system reverts to the 'factory default' setup and the system begins all over.

hope this helps

[TheTree]

Hoges

This is from the nancom manual for GEMS and it seems to suggests there are other things apart from the O2 sensors.

"Reset all adaptive values: As the GEMS runs, it keeps a long-term tally of the constant adjustments it is making to keep values on target. After a while it realizes that it is always adding or subtracting more or less the same amounts and so stores these adjustments as long term adaptive values (those it always uses). These adjustments are really designed to compensate for tolerance in components, natural leakage through gaskets, or air spillage etc. If, however, major rebuilds are undertaken or major components replaced, these values could suddenly become very wrong. This function deletes the current adaptive values (except short term idle) for the stored closed throttle position, which controls the idle speed, and for adaptive AMFR, which controls the fuel mixture, and makes the system re-learn them. "

Steve

[Hoges]

Hi Steve
That's really interesting! I wonder what the system measures against to know what changes to make... and whether it's "adaptions" are based solely on driving style... if that's the case then an "Italian tune-up" might be just the thing to make it more lively around town:twisted:
Cheers
Hoges

EDIT: AhHa! managed to find the Nanocom explanation: the Adaptive Values probably also 'learn' various settings and adjust spark and fuel timing in conjunction with feedback from knock sensors--for example.

WRT fuel however, the GEMS engines brought to Australia were without Oxygen sensors but they were fitted for other markets. Thus "...On vehicles with no oxygen sensors the Adaptive AirMass Flow Rate (AMFR) will have to be manually set as the system has no feedback to learn this value. This can be done in the Settings section and requires an external CO meter."

So, the Australian versions of GEMS always run "open loop"...but the definition of "Adaptive values" applying to GEMS is slightly different from that applying to Thor engines which includes adaptive values derived from "Fuel trim" :eek::confused:
Which stirs memory of some folk from this forum retro-fitting O2 sensors to GEMS engines???

[TheTree]

Hoges

I have retro-fitted O2 sensors but I had to get a later ECU as well so it would recognise them

This is in prep for a Mark Adams Tornado chip:D

Steve

[ashhhhh]

Dont rule out air leaks, they cause all sorts of bizarre issues.

I battled a number of o2 sensor and rich condition errors on my D2 V8, changed MAF, o2 sensors etc - no change.

One day I went over it with a hose to my ear and could hear obvious hissing from the manifold area, stripped it down - no inlet manifold gasket fitted!! :mad:

I also think the injector seals were perished and leaking.

Sorted all that and it has been good as gold since.

[TheTree]

Dont rule out air leaks, they cause all sorts of bizarre issues.

I battled a number of o2 sensor and rich condition errors on my D2 V8, changed MAF, o2 sensors etc - no change.

One day I went over it with a hose to my ear and could hear obvious hissing from the manifold area, stripped it down - no inlet manifold gasket fitted!! :mad:

I also think the injector seals were perished and leaking.

Sorted all that and it has been good as gold since.

Good tip!

Vacuum gauges are cheap and very easy to use as well

Steve

[mtb_gary]

With the new muffler quietening things down several notches it has also helped out with the roughness. Not completely but has certainly helped. Power still seems a bit light on until around 2200 rpm and is particularly rough around 1800 a 2000 rpm.
On a really positive note though I did fix my cruise control.....the usual split vacuum hoses (x2) in the engine bay. The short one that goes from vacuum pump to tee, and the long one the goes to the brake pedal switch. Fortunately the long one was long enough to trim a little bit off the end. As for the shot one it's been replaced with some fuel line that I had laying around....it works ;).

Gary

[mtb_gary]

Just a quick update. Today I have had the IACV out and cleaned it with some Throttle Body Cleaner and then some contact cleaner to assist in the drying. In addition also cleaned the ports that the IACV uses in the throttle body as well as the area around the throttle body butterfly. It was filthy! After seeing just how much carbon came out I thought I might have been on a winner....sadly not the case. Because the car needed refuelling anyway I have filled up with 75 litres of PULP (95 RON) and also popped in 2 bottles of injector cleaner. I'm hoping that there is a small blockage in one of the injectors that can be cleaned up with the cleaner. It certainly can't hurt. Fingers crossed.....


Gary

[PhilipA]

As a long shot I plugged in the Bluetooth OBD11 and turned on the Torque Pro App. And it shows "open loop due to insufficient temperature". After driving for an hour in 35+?C there was ample time to get up to temperature!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/p38a-range-rover/89921d1422492435t-running-rough-lacking-power-image.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/p38a-range-rover/89921d1422492435-running-rough-lacking-power-image.jpg)
* I have checked the temperature sensor output and the voltage varies with the engine warming up to eventually sit at around 1v at operating temp (as per RAVE).



I went right back to your first post, and I still think it is temperature sensor related.
Really seeing all the things you have done, why not try a new temperature sensor.
In the 14CUX there are two temperature sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ECU. I don't know whether the GEMS is the same but the one to change is the ECU sensor which will have an injector plug on it. Note sometimes people mix up injector no 2 plug with the sensor plug. The usual way to check is by reading the resistance across the sensor terminals , which should be 300 Ohms at 82+. I don't think sensors have changed much even up till now.

The fuel temperature sensor is only a trim sensor in 14CUX and I think in GEMS. It has on effect on mixture of +- 10% so is probably not a cause of your problems.

Finally have you done a compression test? These engines are notorious for sticking exhaust valves if not driven hard , Another poster suggested a vacuum test which would also indicate a stuck valve.

If the engine goes into closed loop the plugs will be dead white, as I found when I added O2 sensors to my 14CUX.
But I would check the temperature sensor again.

PS I just looked at RAVE and I think you have been looking at the Thor page which gives voltages. The Section 19 page 22 which refers to GEMS says the resistance should be 300 Ohms ! as I have said. It is page 357 of 1361 in the PDF.
Regards Philip A

[mtb_gary]

Thanks Philip

I haven't done the compression or vacuum test as yet but a sticking exhaust valve could make sense. The open loop is correct for the 1996 model as there are no O2 sensors. As for the ECU sensor, I'll see what values are being provided to the ECU.
I'll be in Melbourne for a bit over a week starting tomorrow so it may be a project for when I return home.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

I've just done the "paper test" on the exhaust. Not good news :(, the paper gets sucked in. PhilipA, it looks like your prognosis of the stuck exhaust valve may be correct. I will verify with the compression guage shortly.

Gary

[blindin]

Hi Gary.
I would try 2 types of tests on it first to see if you can figure it out any better.
The first is a normal compression test.
Second is a another pressure check. You set the piston to tdc, and then plug the compressor in via a pressure guage and regulator. This will tell you how Babylon worn the rings / valves are.
If it is just a sticking valve the second test should appear fine.
You could then try a heap of fuel additive / lubricant, and a good thrash up the road to try and clear and carbon and crap. Even try ultimate fuel as that may even help.
Good luck, hope it isn't to bad

[mtb_gary]

Just as an update. I ran a compression test on the car tonight

Cylinders 2,4,6,8,5 and 7 all sitting around 135-140 Psi

Bad news cylinders 1 and 3 around 20 psi :(

After running the cleaners and higher octane fuel the plugs have certainly cleaned up and are a light colour now. all excep for 1 and 3 of course. I'm still hoping that the cleaners and higher octane petrol will unstick the valves (if in fact that is the problem). Oil is still free of coolant and the coolant is not being discouloured.

Gary

[blindin]

Have you pulled the rocker covers and checked what's happening?

[PhilipA]

AFAIK cleaners will not fix a stuck valve.
But to me the most likely problem is a blown head gasket between 1and 3.

Regards Philip A

[mtb_gary]

Have you pulled the rocker covers and checked what's happening?

Not yet Simon. That could be a job for today

Gary

[mtb_gary]

AFAIK cleaners will not fix a stuck valve.
But to me the most likely problem is a blown head gasket between 1and 3.

Regards Philip A

Phillip, I tend to agree. I was thinking about ordering a gasket kit and head bolts in readiness.

Gary

[mtb_gary]

I've just been doing some ringing around for prices :eek: If I go down the genuine LR parts for the Headset gasket & seals (no bolts) P/N STC4082 I'm up for over $900 before buying the new bolts............Needless to say I'm heading down the non genuine path at that price! Has anyone used any of the aftermarket kits and found a good one? The prices vary quite dramatically. I would prefer to be purchasing from a local supplier if possible.


Gary

[benji]

Gary you will find the same parts a lot cheaper from overseas. I bought all my head stuff from turner engineering, and it was oe quality.

That's a real bugger!


Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[PhilipA]

This may be different now. I have found the UK prices once you add freight to be comparable to OZ prices from specialists like Mario.

It's that old depreciated currency starting to bite.

Latest I looked at was just this week for a Front driveshaft rebuild kit for my D2.
Regards Philip A

[mtb_gary]

Gasket kit ordered from TR Spares. It looks like this weekend I'll be doing the Henry VIII (off with the heads). Hopefully it is just the head gasket gone between 1 & 3 cylinders and no additional damage :o.

Gary

[daf11e]

Gary could post a few progress piccies as I have tackled a few things but not a head gasket.....think I'd get nervous tightening the head bolts...every thing else appears straight ahead....look forward to following your "Henry the v111" and then the surgical replacement.

[mtb_gary]

daf11e, I'll try and get as many pictures as practical along the way. As well as document the procedure. Reading through RAVE it doesn't sound too difficult, but RAVE does not take into account 18 years of bolts being untouched :o

Gary

[Scouse]

Have a look through Paul's excellent write up on this very job:
Engine Refresh (top end) | PaulP38A.com (http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/engine-refresh/)


It's for the later engines but they're much the same once the plenum is removed.

[mtb_gary]

A very nice (detailed) write up!


Gary

[daf11e]

I have printed Paul's as keeping a hard copy is I think handy...will still be very interested in your head bolt tightening Gary......all the best for the weekend!:)

[Armitage_Shanks]

I recently did the head gaskets on my son's 1999 4.0lt Thor (Bosch).
I can't fault Paul's P38A Top End Engine Refresh instructions. But I did manage to remove the RHS exhaust manifold without remove the steering column unijoint. I also started the operation by removing the alternator and A/C compressor and brackets first.
I sourced the head gaskets (a full VRS kit) from 4wdindustires.com.au. The kit I got came with the bolts.
I was worried about breaking the head bolts as well. But they held fine.

Good luck!

[PhilipA]

Seeing you are 3/4 of the way there, it is always a good idea to replace the cam and followers of an RV8 if it has done over say 160Kk.

Wear on these is along with head gaskets the major weakness of RV8s as the base circle diameter of the cam is too small which causes rapid wear of the lobes and lifters.

Regards Philip A

[mtb_gary]

The head is off and it is "just" the head gasket. The head is dead flat and no sign of warping :D. Tomorrow is reassemble. Pics to follow.

91635

A bit of nostalgia to help things through 😃🍻

Gary

[PhilipA]

Well at least it's easy to see the leak!
Regards Philip A

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I got one of those pics!:D

is it just me or is that last valve awfully white?

[mtb_gary]

The photo makes the valve look whiter than it really is ;).plus I've been running a couple of fills of 95 PULP with cleaner and octane booster. I'm sure it will darken up again once I'm back to the 91 octane and no additives.

Gary

[PhilipA]

Seeing that it is the cylinder nearest to a water hole in the block, there may have been a bit of a gasket leak there as well.

It is almost unheard of that a sleeve on an end cylinder will slip, if that is what you are getting at .
Regards Philip A

[mtb_gary]

I'm back on the road :D! The car feels fantastic, no vibration from the engine and the power is back :D.

Tightening up those head bolts....wow what a workout even with a 1.2m extension on the handle 😥😳

I'll update with pictures over the weekend......

Gary

[daf11e]

Well done....!

[mtb_gary]

I was going to upload a pdf with the step by step instructions on removing the head but it appears we con no longer upload pdf's or word documents. Not sure as to why?


Gary

[mtb_gary]

An illustrated step by step guide
Download the file then delete the .xls extension. It will now open as a pdf


Gary

[TheTree]

Great result mate .. enjoy the fruits of your labour now :p

[mtb_gary]

After the extended period of running rough it looked like the engine mount on the LHS was a bit worse for wear. Removing it once the new one arrived showed it was totally stuffed :eek:

Good news was that when I checked the compression in each of the cylinders this morning they all read between 135 and 140 psi :D Oh, and my fuel consumption around town is back around 15.5-16 L/100K

Gary