New Defender : long term preservation

[Wheatos]

My brand new 110 will delivered soon, and I'm keen for advice on how to protect it against its idiosyncrasies as soon as I get it.

I've read that the oil it comes with is not as good as it can/should be, or there's not enough of it (?), then there's the leaky window seals. Are these worth replacing when I get the truck? I'd like to improve 'Defenderisms' such as these so they don't cause issues further down the track (as opposed to protecting it from driver fun/error/stupidity).

What would be the top 3 changes I should do early in its life to maximise its long term structural & engine integrity.

Thanks!

[Tombie]

Oil is fine, one member commented his diff (iirc) was a bit low, but if the PDC is done correctly this won't be an issue.

The engine oil at delivery will be the correct Castrol gear and is a good oil.

Leaking window seals - not too sure on this one either. Some defenders leak, some don't. Wash it and see! Then get the dealer to sort it.

[jimr1]

Hi like you I'm waiting for a new 110 "they say June " My question is what do you wont to do with It ? I'd like to tell you what I'm going to do . Front winch bar , driving lights , winch . Why because I have them . side steps rear spare wheel carrier , and cargo barrier . Of course you don't have to do any of this , just drive It and enjoy . There is something about putting your own stamp on your vehicle . The next one will be number 5 Land Rover station wagon and about number 10 , I have loved every one . I'm sure we will both be very pleased with our new trucks . good luck ... Jim :):)

[Wheatos]

Hi like you I'm waiting for a new 110 "they say June " My question is what do you wont to do with It ? I'd like to tell you what I'm going to do . Front winch bar , driving lights , winch . Why because I have them . side steps rear spare wheel carrier , and cargo barrier . Of course you don't have to do any of this , just drive It and enjoy . There is something about putting your own stamp on your vehicle . The next one will be number 5 Land Rover station wagon and about number 10 , I have loved every one . I'm sure we will both be very pleased with our new trucks . good luck ... Jim :):)

Thanks Jim. Sounds like you've been down this road before.

I've ordered all the kit I want for it, incl Front Runner rack, Rijidij spare wheel carrier, Mulgo bumperettes, APT steering guard, diff guards plus a few other bits and pieces. That will do me for the next 18mths or so as all I have planned is a few trips to a farm at Trunkey and a Christmas trek to Fraser Island. I'm very excited by what is coming, and after ordering it in Nov, waiting till after ANZAC Day requires patience of a kind that I'm not strong in!

However, rather than work out other bolt on pieces I can get, I'm trying to establish what changes to the standard offering I should do that would avoid a slow deterioration over time.

Cheers

[manic]

A major long term concern is corrosion.

Wax the chassis and bulkhead internal. Galvanise the steel body cappings. Separate all the steel brackets that mate with aluminium body with something durable to prevent galvanic corrosion. There are many. Look at restoration posts for older defenders to get an idea of where the rot hits. My seat box restoration thread gives you a good idea of the kind of rot you can expect if not prevented.

[Pocket Rocket]

You may also want to consider putting in the traxide headlight relay kit. Prevents the light switch burning out.

[MrLandy]

8 months wait...nice zen training opportunity! Then I reckon just drive it! A lot! And enjoy! In my 2014 the gearbox is a little notchy til it warms up 5 min so I take it easy, but I reckon that's normal, then its sweet all day long.
...Maybe hose it down if you're in salt air country... But apart from that Defenders aren't even meant to be washed. :-)

[EastFreo]

I was also worried about it when I got mine last year as I want it to last a very long time. Found a great thread on Defender2.net "corrosion prevention guide" and took some advice from that and from a heap of threads on this site.

I ended up using a professional outfit here to rust proof it and I am liberally spraying inox and other similar products fairly frequently. Probably a bit like my Dad who has used CRC on his 300tdi and it is still pretty rust free.

Will say the corrosion of the modern defender chassis is one item I am a bit disappointed with. We have had a lot of old series models and three defenders growing up and none had rust issues and Dad did nothing other than spray CRC. Mind you that goes on anything at home from guns to hinges as well as cars!

[JDNSW]

Best thing you can do is to move inland to a dry climate. And, definitely, if not doing that, keep it under cover and wash thoroughly underneath whenever you use it off road.

John

[jimr1]

I suppose , keeping the mud out of all those area's that are traps underneath , It gets into every nook and granny , then sets hard as . Then I gets wet slowly causing corrosion , Especially salt water . I try to keep mine clean underneath . That can be a rotten dirty job , after driving in wet clay !!.. Jim :)

[Wheatos]

You may also want to consider putting in the traxide headlight relay kit. Prevents the light switch burning out.

Wasn't aware of this one, so thanks PR.

I have ordered the upgraded Xenon kit, however I assume that they only change over the bulbs, and I should still do the headlight relay kit?

[Wheatos]

Corrosion prevent seems to be high on the list.

Seems absurd that one should have to go to such lengths to protect a brand new vehicle. :eek:. I guess thats the nature of the beast!

Thanks Manic, John, Jim, EastFreo and MrLandy.

[manic]

Long term = 20 years? Of course no issue if u want to keep it inland and out of the rain. But you want to be able to take it coast to coast, coat it with filth, use it! It is not possible to clean all the muck out every time. And when it comes to contact between dissimilar metals, you only need to get those joins wet to accelerate their evil.

So yeah, corrosion prevention is worth doing and the easiest/best time to apply it is when brand new.

Even if you intended to keep it for 5 years, do it for the rover, for the love of this forum :)

[Pocket Rocket]

Wasn't aware of this one, so thanks PR.

I have ordered the upgraded Xenon kit, however I assume that they only change over the bulbs, and I should still do the headlight relay kit?

Without the relay all the current goes through the switch to the headlights which results in the switch burning out and and the headlights being dimmer.

Drivesafe from Traxside can probably explain it better though. Here is a link to his website

Headlight Wiring Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV (http://www.traxide.com.au/headlight-wiring-kits/)

[DiscoMick]

My brand new 110 will delivered soon, and I'm keen for advice on how to protect it against its idiosyncrasies as soon as I get it.

I've read that the oil it comes with is not as good as it can/should be, or there's not enough of it (?), then there's the leaky window seals. Are these worth replacing when I get the truck? I'd like to improve 'Defenderisms' such as these so they don't cause issues further down the track (as opposed to protecting it from driver fun/error/stupidity).

What would be the top 3 changes I should do early in its life to maximise its long term structural & engine integrity.

Thanks!


Is it window seals leaking or is water coming down the heater intake onto the front passenger floor? Just a thought. Whether mine leaks seems to depend on how strongly I spray it with the hose while washing. Most of the time it doesn't leak, but occasionally there is water.

[mekon76]

I'm waiting for mine too, anyone had a firm date or ideas of build runs? I was just told April was a close off date to order and due to land between June/July.

Haven't looked into it, but I imagine some sort of cathodic protection by sacrificial anode or impressed current. Must be some systems out there.

[Tombie]

I'm waiting for mine too, anyone had a firm date or ideas of build runs? I was just told April was a close off date to order and due to land between June/July.

Haven't looked into it, but I imagine some sort of cathodic protection by sacrificial anode or impressed current. Must be some systems out there.

I'm having a sale on a Bridge in Sydney and a supply of Hiclones and Fuel polarisers as well if you're interested :cool::angel:

But seriously - they dont work on land based equipment...
Save your coin and go traditional methods (barrier) - If they (Electronic/Cathodic systems) worked at all the Poms would have them and not have the rust issues they all face..

[AndyG]

My brand new 110 will delivered soon, and I'm keen for advice on how to protect it against its idiosyncrasies as soon as I get it.

I've read that the oil it comes with is not as good as it can/should be, or there's not enough of it (?), then there's the leaky window seals. Are these worth replacing when I get the truck? I'd like to improve 'Defenderisms' such as these so they don't cause issues further down the track (as opposed to protecting it from driver fun/error/stupidity).

What would be the top 3 changes I should do early in its life to maximise its long term structural & engine integrity.

Thanks!

Many people will say follow the service interval, 20,000 but my Dealer put a sticker on for 10,000. (Did they assume arduous use ?
It turned out i changed the engine the engine oi & filter at 5,000 after 3 weeks of driving and had an independent give it a good look see. I will still use the Dealer for the annual service and corrosion test. So annual service by dealer, minor serviceat six months by independent. Will probably change all the drive line fluids at 50,000 km, which is lower than the recommended.

And a professional Techylon (?) coating done

[Wheatos]

Many people will say follow the service interval, 20,000 but my Dealer put a sticker on for 10,000. (Did they assume arduous use ?
It turned out i changed the engine the engine oi & filter at 5,000 after 3 weeks of driving and had an independent give it a good look see. I will still use the Dealer for the annual service and corrosion test. So annual service by dealer, minor serviceat six months by independent. Will probably change all the drive line fluids at 50,000 km, which is lower than the recommended.

And a professional Techylon (?) coating done

I like the idea of the independent service AndyG. Thanks.

Is your Techylon reference in relation to corrosion proofing?

[DiscoMick]

Definitely get it rust proofed and get that renewed annually.

[AndyG]

I like the idea of the independent service AndyG. Thanks.

Is your Techylon reference in relation to corrosion proofing?

Yes, I may have misspelt, underneath and inside the doors.

[Pickles2]

I've looked at the rustproofing issue, but as far as I'm aware, there's no-one in Melbourne that does rustproofing.
Pickles.

[AndyG]

Maybe ask a Valvoline (Tectyl) distributor if they can nominate.

H & H Lubricants And Solvents
Tel 03 5272 1909
Fax
Contact Partner
Website: Valvoline : Provider of Industrial & Automotive Chemicals, Lubricants & Oils | Valvoline.com.au (http://www.valvoline.com.au)

[Wheatos]

I've looked at the rustproofing issue, but as far as I'm aware, there's no-one in Melbourne that does rustproofing.
Pickles.

I'm keen to do, but very time poor. Each time I google rust proofing for Sydney I get electronic options.

It seems Perth and QLD have shops prepared to do it.

Maybe the distributor route is the way to go - to find someone in Sydney.

[Tombie]

Any decent crash shop should be able to do underbody rust proofing and chassis treatment...

I know in Adelaide several do

[DiscoMick]

Could just buy a compressor, a spraygun and a bottle of lanolin and do it yourself, I suppose.

[AndyG]

Could just buy a compressor, a spraygun and a bottle of lanolin and do it yourself, I suppose.

Lanolin, yes
Tectyl, a bit more protection, and its ****ty stuff to work with.