Protecting Inside the Chassis Rails

[alexturner]

Hi all,

Just about to embark on cleaning my chassis and ridding the outside of some rust it's gathered over the years (and giving the welder a good workout).

I've made some 'incisions' into the chassis and whilst the inside is ok, there is some rust forming and I wanted to pick your brains for the best way to handle it and stop it from spreading.

I'm planning on giving everything a good squirt with low strength phosphoric acid (rust converter) but I'm not sure what do to next. What's the best way to protect the inside of the rails? I've heard fishoil and ATF Fluid but they sound messy. Is there a clean, easy product designed for this?

AT

[isuzurover]

Lanotec Heavy Duty Liquid Lanolin | Lanotec (http://www.lanotec.com.au/product/heavy-duty-liquid-lanolin/)

or better yet, since it sounds like you have access, spray the inside with cold gal and then follow up with lanotec after it dries.

Galmet? ColdGal (http://www.itwpf.com.au/galmet/product.aspx?productid=4)

[simmo]

Hi Alex, I'm thinking about the same thing myself.
Lanotech is product we have used at work offshore for may years, and I can't speak highly enough about it. ( AKA, Kiwi aftershave :) )
It's made from the oil that comes from sheeps wool. There is more than one product available but the oil from sheep's wool is the key.

I plan to jet out the inside of the chassis rails and let them dry very well, then make some type of spray head that can be fed into the rails form the front and the back . and try to spray the inside.

I personally wouldn't bother with the acid rust converter, one of the characteristics of the lanothech is it's very fine and will travel through the rust and seal it off underneath. I think it works similar to fish oil.

I have seen steel bolts offshore without paint not deteriorate for years after being paint with lanotech. Its available in bulk 20 liter drums etc, 1/2 liter spray bottles or in pressure pack cans etc. I use the pressure pack cans & spray bottles everywhere , for door hinges , bolt ends under the car etc. It's not cheap though. Worth a look. cheers simmo

Heavy Duty Liquid Lanolin | Lanotec (http://www.lanotec.com.au/product/heavy-duty-liquid-lanolin/)

[Lagerfan]

Another brand - same idea - is MX4 LANOX Lanolin Lubricant - Inox Lubricants (http://www.inoxmx.com/inox/mx4-lubricant/)

[Loubrey]

Lanolin products are great, but it need reapplying annoyingly often as its an organic material and therefore completely biodegradable. You really need to reapply after every pressure wash and its way too messy to muck around like that.

A much better and significantly more permanent solution IMO is Valvolene Tectyl 506 which sprays on pretty easy and dries as a semi hard resin type finish. Inside the chassis its a 5+ year spray and forget product, so well worth the money spent.

http://qclubricants.com/msds/Tectyl506.pdf

Blackwoods sells it in 20 liter tins and you can get it in aerosol for detail work as well.

Cheers,

Lou

[Don 130]

Penetrol is also pretty good.
The Flood Company Australia ? Anti Corrosion Products ? penetrol-anti_rust (http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php)
And another thing. Cold Gal will only be effective on properly prepared bare steel. NO RUST.
Don.

[Aguy]

I bought a can of Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 and Dynax UB. Still haven't used it yet but I am planning on trying it out in a week or two. The guys in the UK rave about it.
It is expensive and hard to find in Aus, $50 for a 750ml can I think.

[ThorneGator]

Simmo,

I would be curious what/ how you make a spray head to access the inside of the rails. When you figure that out would you post pics of the 'tool'? Curious what would make a decent spray head to cover best area inside the rails.....

Hi Alex, I'm thinking about the same thing myself.
Lanotech is product we have used at work offshore for may years, and I can't speak highly enough about it. ( AKA, Kiwi aftershave :) )
It's made from the oil that comes from sheeps wool. There is more than one product available but the oil from sheep's wool is the key.

I plan to jet out the inside of the chassis rails and let them dry very well, then make some type of spray head that can be fed into the rails form the front and the back . and try to spray the inside.

I personally wouldn't bother with the acid rust converter, one of the characteristics of the lanothech is it's very fine and will travel through the rust and seal it off underneath. I think it works similar to fish oil.

I have seen steel bolts offshore without paint not deteriorate for years after being paint with lanotech. Its available in bulk 20 liter drums etc, 1/2 liter spray bottles or in pressure pack cans etc. I use the pressure pack cans & spray bottles everywhere , for door hinges , bolt ends under the car etc. It's not cheap though. Worth a look. cheers simmo

Heavy Duty Liquid Lanolin | Lanotec (http://www.lanotec.com.au/product/heavy-duty-liquid-lanolin/)

[ozscott]

Mate you cant go past Xtroll Rust Conqueror UV - greater specific gravity than water so it gets everywhere. Just spray it in with a spray gun and compressor so it atomises and it sets hard - its transparrent with a very light gold tinge. I use it on the Landy's and also boat trailer and caravan etc and you cant go wrong. It forms a complete seal to stop existing rust and new rust developing.

Cheers

[simmo]

I think you can buy them , I've seen them for jetting out cleaning pipes and coating them inside, or use small airless spray gun nozzle, of small burner atomizing head. Plus some type of spring wire legs to hold it roughly central.
I think if you cut 1 x 1" hole on the inside of each chassis rail in about the middle of the car you could feed the nozzle each way. There is a hole at the front of the chassis rail, but I don't think it's big enough. Do you remember Aldi had boroscopes on sale? One of those would be handy to check the results.

[strangy]

My thread in Projects and Tutorials.
"130 Dual Cab for me"
Page 5 explains how I coated the inside if my chassis.
Whatever your choice if coating, the set up worked well.

[russellrovers]

Hi all,

Just about to embark on cleaning my chassis and ridding the outside of some rust it's gathered over the years (and giving the welder a good workout).

I've made some 'incisions' into the chassis and whilst the inside is ok, there is some rust forming and I wanted to pick your brains for the best way to handle it and stop it from spreading.

I'm planning on giving everything a good squirt with low strength phosphoric acid (rust converter) but I'm not sure what do to next. What's the best way to protect the inside of the rails? I've heard fishoil and ATF Fluid but they sound messy. Is there a clean, easy product designed for this?

ATuse waxol hose pipe pin holes all spray with good pressure first send a rotary wire head and then high pressure air hose jim

[Aguy]

I wonder if you could use expander foam in the chassis??

It would definitely seal the inside well.

Would it cause any problems though? forget about ever looking inside and running cables in there.

[YOLO110]

WHY... don't JLR just fit (and charge for!) a galvanised chassis from the get go!!! :angrylock:

[YOLO110]

Actually, IF production continues ex UK after the December shut-down, the new 'maker' could charge a premium and make a fortune if they built the Defender on a galvanised chassis!!! :>)