WTF! - EGT's with TRS chip... Td5 manual MSB

[MR LR]

Hi all,

It seems my chip woes are only continuing, this time it hasn't just been slightly annoying, but it's scared the **** out of me! :( :mad:

Background;
10p MSB chipped ECU from TRS fitted to my 2001 td5 manual @200,000km's in July 2014. When I bought it they said it was "perfectly safe, just not to labour it in 5th gear when towing". It was fitted at the same time as the 32's and brought performance back... fast forward to March 2015 it has done 30,000km's, (with no issues, apart from my displeasure about the smoothness or rather lack there of, of the tune) the next round of mods is occurring and I fit a TRT boost box, D2a intercooler, silicon hoses and wind the boost out to 19psi. At the same time i fitted boost and EGT gauges, this is where it get's scary...

The following two photos were taken on the same hill, at the same speed, unladen car, cool autumn day;

-flat out in 5th gear @100km/h - just pushing past 650, won't climb much higher unless towing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/866.jpg (http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mrlr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsagj1xinv.jpg.html)

-1/2 to 3/4 throttle in 4th @100km/h - i backed off at 750, continues to climb past 800-850 if you hold 120...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/867.jpg (http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mrlr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszxv2borw.jpg.html)

NOW, logic and experience would say that my EGT's should be lower in 4th gear. In fact the first time I drove it with the EGT gauge it went past 800 and kept climbing (in 4th)!!! :eek: Performance is not even that good! 5th gives me lower EGT's for the speed I find... weird.

So I'm not very happy, considering I've done 30kkm's with something that was sold to me as safe, and driving it so as not to labour it, and now knowing that the smoke screen it creates at 110 in 4th gear has probably ruined what was a perfectly healthy engine...
I am having to drive it slower than I did when it ran a stock tune on 32's, just to keep it alive.

For the record, photos were taken completely unladen, with two people in the car, the car also has a 3" mantec style custom snorkel on it. EGT probe is mounted in the EGR blank plate and completely covers exhaust port #1.

Can anyone shed some light on this strange tune, or has anyone else had the same experience?

Should I ask to return it for a refund?

A bit concerned as right now I cannot really afford to spend the money on an NNN ecu and Td5 Inside tune.

Thanks in advance for any input :)

[sierrafery]

IMO you should make a test with stock tyres before a final conclusion, with those huge tyres the whole addaptive strategy of the management might be mixed up as long as the new fuel map was not especially conceived for that by someone who really knows his stuff cos there's a missmatch now it the ECM's "brain" as with those tyres the VSS(vehicle speed signal, part of the addaptive strategy) is unexpectedly low according to the revs and torque delivered at a certain vehicle speed and the fuel map was ''calibrated"" for stock(or max 5% greater) tyres, as your's is manual there's no default value for VSS(only autos have it) so the management will compensate by overfueling.

IMO for those tyres you need dedicated fuel map to not have any issues also if i understood well you dont even have a larger intercooler yet which is not healthy with any remap

can't you take a live data log with a nanocom to see some MAF, MAP, IAT values?

[MR LR]

IMO you should make a test with stock tyres before a final conclusion, with those huge tyres the whole addaptive strategy of the management might be mixed up as long as the new fuel map was not especially conceived for that by someone who really knows his stuff cos there's a missmatch now it the ECM's "brain" as with those tyres the VSS(vehicle speed signal, part of the addaptive strategy) is unexpectedly low according to the revs and torque delivered at a certain vehicle speed and the fuel map was ''calibrated"" for stock(or max 5% greater) tyres, as your's is manual there's no default value for VSS(only autos have it) so the management will compensate by overfueling.

IMO for those tyres you need dedicated fuel map to not have any issues also if i understood well you dont even have a larger intercooler yet which is not healthy with any remap

can't you take a live data log with a nanocom to see some MAF, MAP, IAT values?
I'm not sure if it quite works like that... the speedo is only 10% out compared to GPS, but as far as VSS and RPM are concerned nothing has changed... (gearing is still stock), the car just travels further for each revolution of the tyres, hence the wheel sensors do not read true road speed. Am I interpreting that right?

The thing I can't work out is why it over fuels in 4th but not 5th...

When I bought it they said it was fine to use with 265/75's, and did not recommend a change in IC unless i felt like it.

I have since upgraded to a D2a intercooler (as mentioned before), which is about as good as they get anyway... no intercooler is going to take a further 200*C off my EGT's.

I am curious what it would be like on standard tyres, unfortunately I no longer have any easily accessible.

Thanks for the advice :)

[sierrafery]

I made that deduction cos i've swapped the chip from my ECM(tachosoft remap) to a friend's same year D2 with 265/70/16 tyres(mines are stock 255/65/16) and we've got +100/150*C increased EGT on his, he has the original intercooler, i have a performance one...i dont understant that D2a intercooler thing cos afaik the auto intercooler is even smaller than the original manual one due to the oil cooler, unless your manual has a factory fitted cooler which is smaller than the auto, i dont know these things cos manuals dont have cooler around here

i get max 700 uphill with the stage 1 chip and 800 with the stage 2 on mine

about the VSS, the speed sensor's output is AC voltage which grows with the wheel's rotation speed but the manegement "expects" certain VSS inputs according to rpm and driver demand as it was calibrated from factory and when the initial equilibrium is mixed up any kind of things can happen

[kelvo]

i dont understant that D2a intercooler thing cos afaik the auto intercooler is even smaller than the original manual one due to the oil cooler

With the D2a reference, the 'a' doesn't mean auto. It means it's the face lifted Discovery 2. The intercooler fitted to the D2a are more efficient than the pre facelift Discovery D2.

The intercooler is the same for a manual D2a & an auto D2a.

[sierrafery]

Thanks for that "a" thing, i didnt know that:cool:, though, maybe down under all the manual D2s have a geabox oil cooler from factory but for not such warm regions they didnt export manuals with an oil cooler and the performance intercooler for the manual is bigger than the one for auto(300mm / 235mm high)... i should have said that i was referring to performance intercoolers not standard, my mistake cos i said "original" while i was thinking to performance, sorry

about that pre-facelift and facelift intercoolers it means that all the standard intercoolers on the market should be the same now cos i can't find different part numbers for pre and facelift modells, only PCM100220 which they say fits all modells:confused:

[kelvo]

Thanks for that "a" thing, i didnt know that:cool:, though, maybe down under all the manual D2s have a geabox oil cooler from factory but for not such warm regions they didnt export manuals with an oil cooler and the performance intercooler for the manual is bigger than the one for auto(300mm / 235mm high)

Correct, all manual D2(a)s, in Oz at least, have a gearbox cooler. Which is why we need to make sure any performance intercooler for a manual is gearbox cooler comparable.


about that pre-facelift and facelift intercoolers it means that all the standard intercoolers on the market should be the same now cos i can't find different part numbers for pre and facelift modells, only PCM100220 which they say fits all modells:confused:

Correct, pre-facelift intercoolers were part number ESR3777, this has now been superseded by the D2a part number PCM100220.

[discorevy]

pre facelift intercooler 27 mm thick
facelift d2a intercooler 40mm thick
mr lr see what your egt reads after you wind up your boost but smokescreen in 4th ( not good )
sierrafery if probe is in the same spot as your friends then its probably more to do with your intercooler especially if you are running higher boost, that his egt,s are higher than yours ,

[Tombie]

Sierraferys chips are still far too hot...

[sierrafery]

Those figures were maximum readings uphill with 1500kg boat attached and when i was lazy to change back to 3'rd :) ... in normal conditions without towing it doesnt go above 550-600 uphill for short times, on motorway driving it's max 400 when i floor it to overtake something... IMO that's not bad at all, i've seen worst with a stage 3 map

[Tombie]

Still think the maps not refined enough for your use.
I was towing a 2,400kg boat regularly and getting sub 700 up a very serious climb.

Are you seeing much smoke?

[sierrafery]

With the stage 2 i can see some if i floor it in higher than required gear but not much, with the stage 1 i can't see any in the mirror.

[DiscoDB]

MR LR,

Just to calibrate what you are observing, when you are on a flat road and sitting on 100kph, what RPM, EGT and Turbo Boost are you seeing?

Will help understand if you are at least seeing normal expected readings under normal loads.

DiscoDB

[Redback]

Those figures don't seem all that bad, especially if you're sitting on 100 and still have your foot into it, what you need to do is learn how to drive by your EGT guage, even after you do the mods you have planned, especially when towing.

I had almost the same setup in my D2, before changing to the NNN ECU;

Bruce Davis chip(same as the TRS Chip)32s, had no idea about EGTs at the time, spoke to Mike(Tombie), so started the lowering of the EGTs, at the time they were around the 650 to over 750 and that EGT alarm was driving me mad, so in the meantime to lower them while waiting for the parts.

I wound the boost to as high as I could without over boost, this dropped them to 600 to 700, higher if you kept the boot in, once the parts I ordered came, I ditched the BD Chip, went to the NNN ECU, the TD5 Alive towing tune, after a couple of to and fro adjustments, then silicon hoses, boost box, wound the boost to 22psi and larger intercooler, this brought the EGTs down to maxing out at the 650 to 670 while towing, not towing around the mid 500s.

But, I still drove the car by the EGT guage, when climbing long hills I would watch them and when they got to the mid 600s, I would ease off the throttle a touch but still keeping it in that sweet spot to maintain speed going up the hill, it is possible to keep the momentum and still ease off the throttle, it's only a tad, but watch those EGTs drop.

So once you do the mods you plan, those EGTs will drop, it's amazing just going to silicon does, I'd go higher in the boost, 21psi would be fine, I had 22psi and sold the car at 320,000ks still in perfect nick motor wise.

Baz.

[MR LR]

MR LR,

Just to calibrate what you are observing, when you are on a flat road and sitting on 100kph, what RPM, EGT and Turbo Boost are you seeing?

Will help understand if you are at least seeing normal expected readings under normal loads.

DiscoDB

Got these readings today, this is speedo 100, as were the other readings (real time 110km/h).

This is on the flat with cruise set, revs around 2200. It floats between this and 500 on 'flat' sections.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/727.jpg (http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mrlr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpskcfkwnkn.jpg.html)


Those figures don't seem all that bad, especially if you're sitting on 100 and still have your foot into it, what you need to do is learn how to drive by your EGT guage, even after you do the mods you have planned, especially when towing.

I had almost the same setup in my D2, before changing to the NNN ECU;

Bruce Davis chip(same as the TRS Chip)32s, had no idea about EGTs at the time, spoke to Mike(Tombie), so started the lowering of the EGTs, at the time they were around the 650 to over 750 and that EGT alarm was driving me mad, so in the meantime to lower them while waiting for the parts.

I wound the boost to as high as I could without over boost, this dropped them to 600 to 700, higher if you kept the boot in, once the parts I ordered came, I ditched the BD Chip, went to the NNN ECU, the TD5 Alive towing tune, after a couple of to and fro adjustments, then silicon hoses, boost box, wound the boost to 22psi and larger intercooler, this brought the EGTs down to maxing out at the 650 to 670 while towing, not towing around the mid 500s.

But, I still drove the car by the EGT guage, when climbing long hills I would watch them and when they got to the mid 600s, I would ease off the throttle a touch but still keeping it in that sweet spot to maintain speed going up the hill, it is possible to keep the momentum and still ease off the throttle, it's only a tad, but watch those EGTs drop.

So once you do the mods you plan, those EGTs will drop, it's amazing just going to silicon does, I'd go higher in the boost, 21psi would be fine, I had 22psi and sold the car at 320,000ks still in perfect nick motor wise.

Baz.

I've already got the mods Baz! That's what's doing my head in, and to know I ran it for 30,000 before the mods scares me!

What it's got:
- 3" snorkel, Mantec style but bigger, with a 3.5" Cruiser pre filter
- D2a intercooler.
- Samco hoses
- 20PSI boost max, with one of Mike's boost boxes, not that it ever really gets right up there on the freeway.
- EGR delete

The figures are with me only just maintaining 100k's, these are hills it flew up at 120 with a stock tune.... on 32's and unladen. BOth images were taken on the hill just north of Mt Ousley.

I towed my dune buggy on the trailer to our farm the other day down the Hume, I was back to 80 k's on Catherine hill in 4th to keep EGT's under 700, still had loads of poke, but too much smoke! Again a hill i could tow up at 120 with a stock tune on 32's... (it only weighs 700kg on the trailer!).

Will be going the Td5 inside NNN towing map aswell...

[MR LR]

I made that deduction cos i've swapped the chip from my ECM(tachosoft remap) to a friend's same year D2 with 265/70/16 tyres(mines are stock 255/65/16) and we've got +100/150*C increased EGT on his, he has the original intercooler, i have a performance one...i dont understant that D2a intercooler thing cos afaik the auto intercooler is even smaller than the original manual one due to the oil cooler, unless your manual has a factory fitted cooler which is smaller than the auto, i dont know these things cos manuals dont have cooler around here

i get max 700 uphill with the stage 1 chip and 800 with the stage 2 on mine

about the VSS, the speed sensor's output is AC voltage which grows with the wheel's rotation speed but the manegement "expects" certain VSS inputs according to rpm and driver demand as it was calibrated from factory and when the initial equilibrium is mixed up any kind of things can happen

Inter-cooler is the D2 update 40mm jobby as others have said, was a noticeable improvement and cut smoke in 4th by a lot.

Will see what TRS say about the VSS and RPM readings and how they compare to throttle input and torque output, leaving it till after I get the oil analysis done to contact them though.


pre facelift intercooler 27 mm thick
facelift d2a intercooler 40mm thick
mr lr see what your egt reads after you wind up your boost but smokescreen in 4th ( not good )
sierrafery if probe is in the same spot as your friends then its probably more to do with your intercooler especially if you are running higher boost, that his egt,s are higher than yours ,

That's correct.

I will add that the smokescreen has reduced a lot with the new IC.

[DiscoDB]

So by comparison, at 100kph which for me is 2400rpm, my boost is higher between 10-12psi but the EGT sits much lower around 330-350 degC. I have an upgraded IC from Alisport for a manual which is much larger than the stock D2a IC (deeper and requires the gbox oil cooler to be relocated).

[MR LR]

Interesting, I wonder if it would change if my gearing was back to stock and it was revving higher. Thanks for the comparo :)

How is yours geared?

[DiscoDB]

Gearing all stock, tyres original size. I think you do need to undo some of your changes as it sounds like it is working much harder than it needs to. Are you also carrying a lot of extra weight through bar work etc?

I do wonder about your fueling map though or if you have some other restriction on the air flow side. With a remap it can hide other problems which normally sap power as it naturally feeds more fuel in. With the turbo diesel BMW motors, they regenerate the DPF exhaust by choking the air flow and dumping in more fuel - boost drops off and EGT climbs to 580 degC at a constant 100kph to burn off the carbon dust.

Would be good to see some comparisons from others who have a set up closer to yours.

[MR LR]

Gearing all stock, tyres original size. I think you do need to undo some of your changes as it sounds like it is working much harder than it needs to. Are you also carrying a lot of extra weight through bar work etc?

I do wonder about your fueling map though or if you have some other restriction on the air flow side. With a remap it can hide other problems which normally sap power as it naturally feeds more fuel in. With the turbo diesel BMW motors, they regenerate the DPF exhaust by choking the air flow and dumping in more fuel - boost drops off and EGT climbs to 580 degC at a constant 100kph to burn off the carbon dust.

Would be good to see some comparisons from others who have a set up closer to yours.
I'll have to get my hands on a nanocom and check some of the readings from various sensors (MAF etc.), but I've pulled everything apart to double check and there's no restriction!

To me the only change that should be affecting things is the tyres, so I'll hopefully be able to get my hands on another set to compare it.

The car is not much heavier than stock, sliders are under 10kg each, bull bar is very light and no rear bar. Winch runs dyneema rope too... The rear drawer system is not even really that heavy.

I think the main culprit is the tune, but may be a few small contributors that make it up! I will try and further up the boost. A VNT would be lovely, but is way out of uni student pricing...

[Fast Freddie]

Would be good to see some comparisons from others who have a set up closer to yours.
For what t's worth, on my D2a, I have:

Deleted Cat
Straight-through muffler
Deleted EGR
Silicon Hoses
SERK intercooler (bigger than D2a by quite a margin)
245/70 R16 Tyres (29.5" ie .5" over standard)
Factory tune with no mods at all.

My car goes much better than before I did the mods, which have increased the available torque at mid and high revs, made it much more responsive to throttle movement and made it a delight to drive.

The thing is, even with the factory tune and all the mods, if I hold WOT for long enough, I can get EGTs over 700.

WOT for over 10 seconds usually means that she's really flying mind you, but I thought that this might add to the debate about so-called 'chip tuning' which seems to me to be quite a risky business.
What can they do, apart from add more fuel, which (and I'm guessing here) must inevitably increase EGT, all other things being equal?

[MR LR]

For what t's worth, on my D2a, I have:

Deleted Cat
Straight-through muffler
Deleted EGR
Silicon Hoses
SERK intercooler (bigger than D2a by quite a margin)
245/70 R16 Tyres (29.5" ie .5" over standard)
Factory tune with no mods at all.

My car goes much better than before I did the mods, which have increased the available torque at mid and high revs, made it much more responsive to throttle movement and made it a delight to drive.

The thing is, even with the factory tune and all the mods, if I hold WOT for long enough, I can get EGTs over 700.

WOT for over 10 seconds usually means that she's really flying mind you, but I thought that this might add to the debate about so-called 'chip tuning' which seems to me to be quite a risky business.
What can they do, apart from add more fuel, which (and I'm guessing here) must inevitably increase EGT, all other things being equal?
I'm in the same boat as you Freddie, I'm quite tempted to go back to a stock tune and alter the gearing to suit the tyre size. Maybe even just reduce the degree of tune it's running, I just want to be able to tow with it like I used to...

My main issue is with the difference in EGT between 4th and 5th gears, logic and thermodynamics says it should decrease, and because of the smoke (not really that bad at all mind you) it is clear that the issue is that it's overfueling.

This goes along with all the other fueling issues I've had since fitting it, surges in low range, strange throttle response that translates to what sounds like a miss externally (probably just a 5 cylinder thing in low range). But to sum up, factory was better...

Weird!

[DiscoDB]

For what t's worth, on my D2a, I have:

Deleted Cat
Straight-through muffler
Deleted EGR
Silicon Hoses
SERK intercooler (bigger than D2a by quite a margin)
245/70 R16 Tyres (29.5" ie .5" over standard)
Factory tune with no mods at all.

My car goes much better than before I did the mods, which have increased the available torque at mid and high revs, made it much more responsive to throttle movement and made it a delight to drive.

The thing is, even with the factory tune and all the mods, if I hold WOT for long enough, I can get EGTs over 700.

WOT for over 10 seconds usually means that she's really flying mind you, but I thought that this might add to the debate about so-called 'chip tuning' which seems to me to be quite a risky business.
What can they do, apart from add more fuel, which (and I'm guessing here) must inevitably increase EGT, all other things being equal?

A much larger intercooler makes a big difference on the stock tuned Td5. I also have a tuning box but it is wired up to only kick in on full flat to floor throttle - and yes it is a crude way to dump more fuel in, but under wide open throttle it works well. 99% of the time I am running with the stock tune. The other 1% of the time I am have a foolish grin thinking the Td5 should not be performing as well as it does.

And yes, in the time it takes the EGT to hit 600+degC under full throttle I am already up to the speed limit and need to back off anyway.

MR LR's tune does sound like it is over fuelling a lot. Could be the tall tyres are making the engine work harder, combined with a fuel map that may not be the best under those conditions. An NNN ECU with a Td5Inside tuning map would be a much better option as Jose will the fine tune the remap to make sure it is set up correctly.

[Redback]

I'm in the same boat as you Freddie, I'm quite tempted to go back to a stock tune and alter the gearing to suit the tyre size. Maybe even just reduce the degree of tune it's running, I just want to be able to tow with it like I used to...

My main issue is with the difference in EGT between 4th and 5th gears, logic and thermodynamics says it should decrease, and because of the smoke (not really that bad at all mind you) it is clear that the issue is that it's overfueling.

This goes along with all the other fueling issues I've had since fitting it, surges in low range, strange throttle response that translates to what sounds like a miss externally (probably just a 5 cylinder thing in low range). But to sum up, factory was better...

Weird!

You would have to go to 33s to get the benifit of lower gearing(4.11) with 32s you will be revving the ring out of the car with this gearing, getting the tune reduced is a much cheaper option or a bigger intercooler, also have the centre muffler replaced with a more open one, I had a Vortex muffler in mine, 3" mandrel bend to the centre muffler, standard the rest of the way, also my intercooler was a Tombie designed one, from ARE intercoolers in SA.

Baz.

[Pickles2]

I ain't no expert, but if you're using a "generic" chip, these are the sorts of problems that can occur, because this chip "sits on top of" the ECU does it not, a "piggy back" situation, where this chip "tells" the ECU stuff.
IMHO, the only real way to tune, is to individually tune the ECU to the mods you have,...a "generic" chip can't do that.
Like I said, I ain't no expert, so I'm quite happy to be shot down in flames.
Pickles.

[MR LR]

You would have to go to 33s to get the benifit of lower gearing(4.11) with 32s you will be revving the ring out of the car with this gearing, getting the tune reduced is a much cheaper option or a bigger intercooler, also have the centre muffler replaced with a more open one, I had a Vortex muffler in mine, 3" mandrel bend to the centre muffler, standard the rest of the way, also my intercooler was a Tombie designed one, from ARE intercoolers in SA.

Baz.

GBR actually have a 3.90 ratio diff gearset available (in forward and reverse cut), which will go ever so close to stock gearing on 265/75's, it's very slightly lower, but for a tow car I see it as a benefit. I don't really want to chop the guards to fit 33's... depends if I ute it or not.


I ain't no expert, but if you're using a "generic" chip, these are the sorts of problems that can occur, because this chip "sits on top of" the ECU does it not, a "piggy back" situation, where this chip "tells" the ECU stuff.
IMHO, the only real way to tune, is to individually tune the ECU to the mods you have,...a "generic" chip can't do that.
Like I said, I ain't no expert, so I'm quite happy to be shot down in flames.
Pickles.

YEP! This is the problem! It's funny, when I bought it I rang up to buy an NNN ecu, but got this big speil about ghost faults and how their tune was better for towing and Aussie heat than anything td5 inside has, so thought I'd give it a go... big mistake, and I've learnt my lesson! Td5 inside will get the job from here...

[Roadrunner230]

Yeh Jos is the man. He will adjust your remap to fine tune it to your needs.

[MR LR]

Just did a complete engine rebuild @266kkm due to the damage caused by the 'safe' TRS chip. Was never the same afterwards and way down on compression.

Have run an inside tune for 20k now and it's great... even better now the engine is healthy again!

[bronson]

This goes along with all the other fueling issues I've had since fitting it, surges in low range, strange throttle response that translates to what sounds like a miss externally (probably just a 5 cylinder thing in low range). But to sum up, factory was better...

Weird![/QUOTE]

Ive currently got the same in mine....does the miss sound more evident when you let the clutch out as it starts to reverse or move forward?

cheers
bronson

[shack]

IMO you should make a test with stock tyres before a final conclusion, with those huge tyres the whole addaptive strategy of the management might be mixed up as long as the new fuel map was not especially conceived for that by someone who really knows his stuff cos there's a missmatch now it the ECM's "brain" as with those tyres the VSS(vehicle speed signal, part of the addaptive strategy) is unexpectedly low according to the revs and torque delivered at a certain vehicle speed and the fuel map was ''calibrated"" for stock(or max 5% greater) tyres, as your's is manual there's no default value for VSS(only autos have it) so the management will compensate by overfueling.

IMO for those tyres you need dedicated fuel map to not have any issues also if i understood well you dont even have a larger intercooler yet which is not healthy with any remap

can't you take a live data log with a nanocom to see some MAF, MAP, IAT values?I notice that on a few posts you have been quite strong on the problems associated with running bigger tyres on a d2 td5,I have one that has bigger than standard tyres, and seems to have sub par fuel usage irrespective of the tune I'm running, do you have any more info on this vss? Is there a calibration map in the ECU that can be adjusted? As I'm not aware of one at this stage...
Cheers James

[sierrafery]

....do you have any more info on this vss? Is there a calibration map in the ECU that can be adjusted? As I'm not aware of one at this stage...
Cheers James
Sorry, i have no more info than i've revealed in my posts about this subject

[laney]

Have you tried putting the car on a dyno this will give you a very good idea as to what's going on the trick is finding a dyno technician that can read result correctly.

[shack]

Have you tried putting the car on a dyno this will give you a very good idea as to what's going on the trick is finding a dyno technician that can read result correctly.This was a fairly old thread I probably shouldn't have resurrected, oh well..

[shack]

Just did a complete engine rebuild @266kkm due to the damage caused by the 'safe' TRS chip. Was never the same afterwards and way down on compression.

Have run an inside tune for 20k now and it's great... even better now the engine is healthy again!I've seen several cars running trs msb stage one maps and never seen any egt issue's, granted they were all auto.
I do wonder if you had some kind of restriction/cooling performance problem with the intercooler, the other thing on my mind is that the engine actually needed a rebuild before you got it, and as such you were just feeding it more fuel to overcome the performance deficiency, hence causing the high egt numbers, I Believe you also stated that why was worse in fourth than fifth?
This could also be due to air passing too quickly through the intercooler and not allowing it time too cool, pointing to an intercooler issue, I'd need too see logs to see air flow to diagnose this though, but if it is the case, you are risking your new engine also,
And lastly, it could all be the trs manual remap as I said, I haven't seen that particular one in action.

Cheers James