Series 2a restoration

[Chinookflyer]

I have just purchased a Series 2a Land Rover - I have called him "Wilf". It was sitting in a paddock near Bundaberg Queensland for 12 years without the roof on. It was build in 1971. The chassis number is 25334973G and the engine number 25170084F. It is ex army. It was purchased from the army Febuary 1990.

It seems to be in good condition. The engine runs well with no smoke. The clutch is not working and you cannot depress the pedal. the chassis looks in very good condition - no rust or rot that I can see. The previous owner said he had covered it in fish oil before putting it in the paddock.

I am looking to restore Wilf to his former glory. I have never done a car restoration before. I don't really know where to start - I guess I will strip it right back to the chassis and rebuild it replacing any parts that are needed. I guess there will be some welding needed and some panel beating. I am expecting a lot of work. I have ordered a restoration manual and hopefully that will give me some ideas of where to start. Any advice would be gratefully received.

I will use this tread to update on my progress.

[Chinookflyer]

Picture of the front

[Chinookflyer]

Inside Wilf

[Chinookflyer]

The back of Wilf

[JDNSW]

Bit of work to do, but doesn't look too bad. One thing you will need to decide early on is what sort of restoration you intend - bring it back to 'new', as delivered to the army, or to a good working vehicle, or something else.

A good start will be to get a copy of the factory workshop and parts manuals, most easily on CD from the AULRO shop (see header of this page), and sit down and read as much as you can of the Series 2/2a (and also Series 3 and some other) forums here as you can - this, particularly the stories of others' restorations, will give you a good idea of where you need to go and what the pitfalls are.

One point to note is that the restoration manual covers primarily the home market Landrovers. The Australian ones, and especially the Army ones, differ from these in many details, one early point you need to know is the location of the chassis number, which is on the LH rear back spring hanger on Australian assembled Series 2A.

All the best, and keep us informed of your progress.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Thanks John

I would like to get it back to original condition - I would like to get it back on the road - but not as a "working" wagon.

The manuals part one and two came with the car so I have those. Thanks for the advice about the restoration guide. I have the chais number from old documents that came with the wagon - I will look for the number - why is this so important to find?

I have been looking at accounts of other restorations.

Many thanks for your advice.

Regards

Scott

[JDNSW]

.......... I have the chais number from old documents that came with the wagon - I will look for the number - why is this so important to find?
........
Regards

Scott

Assuming you intend the vehicle to be registered, or, at some time intend to sell it, the chassis number, stamped into the chassis is required for legal proof of identity. This requirement has been getting tighter over the years, and can only be expected to get even tighter, as legislation to prevent "rebirthing" of stolen vehicles gets ever more strictly enforced. Of course, rebirthing of Series Landrovers is not a serious issue in Australia (it is in the UK!), but the same rules apply to all cars.

But actually, I simply meant the position of the chassis number as an example of an Australian assembled difference rather than as an important difference.

John

[Chinookflyer]

The Chasis number is 25334973G I have got this from the documentation that came from the army when it was sold at auction. I will check that this matches the number on the chais - I think it will.

Thanks for the advice John

All the best Scott

[Johnno1969]

Good luck with this. I'm sure we're all looking forward to seeing Wilf undergo his rebirth.

John

[JDNSW]

The Chasis number is 25334973G I have got this from the documentation that came from the army when it was sold at auction. I will check that this matches the number on the chais - I think it will.

Thanks for the advice John

All the best Scott

Should also be on the Landrover plate in front of the gear lever and on the 'Census' plate usually on the LH side of the seat box. But neither of these carry any legal weight as they are easily swapped between vehicles and in any case are on the body not the chassis.

John

[gromit]

The REMLR site may be useful. There is a forum and lots of information on the various military Land Rover specifications etc.
The Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers. Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. (http://www.remlr.com/)

Found the rego.
ARN 178-366
2a GS fitted with Bamford Winch
Original engine number 25350257K (possibly changed in service).
Sold 14-2-90

If you join the site they will update the records so that the vehicle is shown as known.

Colin

[Chinookflyer]

Here is the engine. I have seen it running - looked good - no smoke. No fan??? not sure if someone has put an electric one on it at some point - hence the newish Lucus plastic box. Noticed some rust in the front of the bonnet.

[Chinookflyer]

The REMLR site may be useful. There is a forum and lots of information on the various military Land Rover specifications etc.
The Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers. Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. (http://www.remlr.com/)

Found the rego.
ARN 178-366
2a GS fitted with Bamford Winch
Original engine number 25350257K (possibly changed in service).
Sold 14-2-90

If you join the site they will update the records so that the vehicle is shown as known.

Colin

Thanks Colin. I will join that site and get the wagon put on their register.

So he had a winch on him at some point.

All the best

Scott

[JDNSW]

Unlikely that is the original engine - that chassis number should have PCV setup, and a Zenith carburettor. Probably not a lot to choose though.

You really need a fan, and it would have been fitted with the 'military' fan, hence the double fan belt. The standard fan will just bolt to that pulley as well. The eriginal fan may have been removed in an effort to reduce noise and increase fuel economy. Have you checked if there is an electric fan in front of the radiator?

John

[gromit]

Here's an underbonnet picture of my 1970 IIa GS.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/694.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202a%20GS/DSCF7636_zpsetwqdbi1.jpg.html)

There was a shield around the fan which seems to get removed, mine still has it fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/695.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Series%202a%20GS/DSCN2831_zpswqysovsn.jpg.html)


I noticed yours has a heat shield at at the rear of the manifold, mine doesn't have that but it may have been removed. I know my FFR (Series III 6-cylinder definitely has a heat shield).


Colin

[JDNSW]

Both the fan shield and the heat shield are standard Series 2a parts - but both were missing from my 1970 FFR as it came ex army.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Thanks very much for the information. The wagon came with boxes of spares so I will have to see what I have.

yes it does look like there is an electric fan in front of the radiator.

Lots of evidence of drab green paint under the blue. I would rather have it bronze green - but if it was supplied in drab green - then drab green it will be.

I have cleared the back out and taken off the tail gate. Looks like there is all the metal work to restore it to the soft top. I can see no rot in the back. There are two lockers at the back under the seats. There are a couple of plates under the seats at the front. Not sure if these are original?

Good to be doing something

Thanks again

Scott

[Chinookflyer]

here is a picture of the electric fan - I would like to restore to original so I think that will have to go. Good day today removed hard top - quite a job for one person. Removed the bonnet and gave him a good clean over.

I took the seats out - two missing from the back - they are going to take a lot of work.

I have never restored (or serviced for that matter) a car before so I think this is going to be interesting.

[JDNSW]

There are two lockers at the back under the seats. There are a couple of plates under the seats at the front. Not sure if these are original?

Good to be doing something

Thanks again

Scott

The lockers are standard (all civilian and military 2a 109s), the plates under the front seats are standard 2a fittings, replaced by a shaped well when a spare wheel carrier is fitted either side in the back, which is standard (right or left (drivers) depending on which side of road it is driven on) on civilian 109s, but not on military ones, where the standard position is the bonnet.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Doors, Bonnet, Bumper, Windscreen and bull bar now removed. Still looking good in terms of rust.

[Chinookflyer]

Not sure the windscreen motor should look like this:)

[JDNSW]

Looks like there is some sort of foreign material in there, and possibly some non-standard wiring!

John

[harry]

that's why you cover the pitot,
but in a land rover they get in anywhere.

[Chinookflyer]

I think a few mud wasps will be the least of my problems. I am taking the wings off at the moment. Much - but not all- of the electrics seems to be working but the wiring looks to be in a real mess. I think I will buy a new loom at some point - not looking forward to fitting that. At what stage would you fit new electrics - towards the end when all the body work has been re- fitted? The engine runs and sound OK - no smoke. What work should I do on the engine as a matter of course in terms of the restoration? Scott

[harry]

you can scare yourself into a rebuild if you want to, but all I suggest is drop the sump and have a look at the innards, look in the bottom of the sump for part numbers and check all the bits that you can see, get someone knowledgeable about engines to have a squiz and go from there.
of course that is an oversimplification but dig as deep as you want, if it was running ok then just clean the bits up and give it some tlc while it is out.

[gromit]

You can get carried away and very quickly over capitalise on a project like this.
If the motor runs OK you could just leave it, or as Harry said you could drop the sump etc.
At the moment mine starts & runs OK after a carby rebuild, points, condensor, oil change, coolant flushed & replaced but the oil pressure is low. This might mean problems with the big ends so at some point I'll drop the sump.

The next discussion is "what is restoration".
I think the question has already been raised (by JDNSW) do you want it as it left the factory, do you want an 'in service look' or a better than new look ?

Your vehicle has clearly been repainted in the past so I can understand why you might want to put it back to how it looked when it left service.

You mentioned the wiring, if fully rebuilding you would install this towards the end of the rebuild. Locally you will be up for close to $500 for the harness (I think someone got a military one made up recently) so maybe tidy up/repair the original.

If you want the canopy instead of the hardtop a good quality reproduction is over $1,300. I have one ready to fit but while waiting to be done a hardtop is fitted.

Lots of decisions.......

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/205561-conservation-vs-restoration.html



Colin
Colin

[Chinookflyer]

I would really like to do a full restoration and get it back to where it was in 1971 - maybe not possible but worth a go I think. There are many reasons for this.
1) I have the time - I will retire in 5-6 years so it will be a project bubbling along in the background. I do quite a bit of 4x4 but have a new Patrol for that. Wilf will never be used for that - plan to use it as a Sunday Driver.
2) Wilf is a mix between England and Australia. Manufactured in the Midlands (about 50 miles from where I was born) and assembled in Australia. I feel a strange affinity with the car!
3) I like Wilf's military background. My father served in WW2 and my son at this very moment is serving in the Australian Navy on HMAS ANZAC in ANZAC Cove in Gallipoli. He is the ship's doctor. The car is a link to these great guys.
4) It will be a great education for me. I work as an academic so it will be great to be working producing something. I have never even serviced a car before so I have a lot to learnt. I have already signed up for welding course at TAFE.

So for these reasons I want to fully restore the car. Yes I will probably overcapitalize in terms of re-sell value - but that's not what it is about at all. Thanks for getting me to reflect on this.

Now enough of this thinking and back to some doing!

[Chinookflyer]

A little more progress made. The wings are off. A real mix of nuts and bolts - some metric many obviously non original. There are two small areas of rust in the fire wall. The ends of the chasis are a bit mouth eaten - but all that is left is solid

[The ho har's]

Looks like it is going to be a good project for you. That is normal for the dumb irons to have rust, firewall the same.

Mrs hh:angel:

[Chinookflyer]

A little more progress made. The rear tube is now off. I have also removed the seat bases and front floor. The chassis is still looking very good - no rust. There is a dent in the back strut - seen in the photograph. Not sure I will be able to do anything about that - should be OK once painted.

The rear diff looks like it has some oil leaking around the seal - so that will need sorting.

Next job will be to take fuel tanks out.

[Chinookflyer]

A little more progress made. The rear tube is now off. I have also removed the seat bases and front floor. The chassis is still looking very good - no rust. There is a dent in the back strut - seen in the photograph. Not sure I will be able to do anything about that - should be OK once painted.

The rear diff looks like it has some oil leaking around the seal - so that will need sorting.

Next job will be to take fuel tanks out.

[Chinookflyer]

Here are the pictures of Wilf without the rear tub, the oil leak from the rear diff and the dent in the rear chassis member

[Pickles2]

Chinook, for someone that's never really worked on a car before, I reckon you're an absolute legend.
I shall follow this thread with interest, and admiration.
Pickles.

[Chinookflyer]

Very far from a legend!! I am doing a starting a welding course at TAFE this evening - would like to tackle some of those rust spots myself! I really am leaning a lot - I was VERY surprised to see a brake drum on the back of the gear box. Never new there was such a thing as a tansmission brake! I guess taking Wilf apart is the easy part! I want to get it right back to the bear chassis the rebuild from there - thats when the questions are really going to start flowing thick and fast. I keep looking at the engine and wireing and shake my head. But just taking one step at a time. Great way of forgetting about work!

[JDNSW]

If you don't already have them, may I suggest a workshop manual and a parts book (the latter not so much for getting part numbers, but because it has a lot more general pictures than has the workshop manual). This would help prevent surprises such as finding a transmission brake. These were actually very common, especially in American vehicles from the 1920s to the 1960s, and it is likely that Rover copied the idea from the Jeep that inspired the first Landrovers.

The easiest place to get these (and it helps the forum) is to order the 'Rave CD' from the Shop at the top of this page.

John

[Chinookflyer]

I do have the orginal workshop manuals (2) I also have the parts book. I also have the Haynes LR restoration manual - but this is for civy LRs. I have also just ordered the Haynes Military LR Manual. Guess I just need to read them more!

next job is to take out the fule tanks the nut and bold on the back look impossible - but I guess I will work it out.

All the best

scott

[JDNSW]

I do have the orginal workshop manuals (2) I also have the parts book. I also have the Haynes LR restoration manual - but this is for civy LRs. I have also just ordered the Haynes Military LR Manual. Guess I just need to read them more!

next job is to take out the fule tanks the nut and bold on the back look impossible - but I guess I will work it out.

All the best

scott

It is unlikely that the Haynes military manual will add much - there is little in common between the Home Market military versions it is concerned with and the Australian military versions, which were developed locally and, as far as I can gather, independently. (Except, of course, the fact that both military versions are based on the same civilian vehicle)

John

[Chinookflyer]

OK so book might not be of use - never mind. Will be interesting to read more about the LR.

Welding course went well last night. First time I have ever done arc welding properly :)

[SII Josh]

Awesome to see the progress so far, and the welding course will be of much benefit even if you only have a few weld repairs to do on your landy.

Wait till your mates find out you can weld 😃

[Dark61]

I like this thread - plenty of pictures.
cheers,
D

[Chinookflyer]

Going to have a few weeks off from Wilf. Off to PNG tomorrow - back on Wednesday then off to UK, HK, Singapore and Mongolia. Tough job but someone's got to do it!

I did think about trying to pick up some spares in the UK - but don't think it is worth the bother of carrying them round Asia.

I do have some welding to do on one of the rule tanks at some point. They are empty but there is some fuel residue in the bottom of the tanks. They also smell of petrol. How do you clean out fuel tanks to make them safe for welding? I will post some pictures when I get back and get the tank out.

[schuy1]

Leave welding of fuel tanks to pros, or get new 1s. Unless you want to be a real high flyer! As in winging your way to the pearly gates!
Cheers scott

[gromit]

Going to have a few weeks off from Wilf. Off to PNG tomorrow - back on Wednesday then off to UK, HK, Singapore and Mongolia. Tough job but someone's got to do it!

I did think about trying to pick up some spares in the UK - but don't think it is worth the bother of carrying them round Asia.

I do have some welding to do on one of the rule tanks at some point. They are empty but there is some fuel residue in the bottom of the tanks. They also smell of petrol. How do you clean out fuel tanks to make them safe for welding? I will post some pictures when I get back and get the tank out.

Problem is, we recommend something, you blow yourself up and then you sue us :)

Not sure about this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTb4ToknOyY

I've read that feeding exhaust fumes from a vehicle into & out of a petrol tank for some time reduces the potential for explosion, again, not sure about that one.
Flush the tank with water and then fill with water but leave an air pocket. Position the tank so that where you are welding is in the small air pocket.
I've done this without any issues.

An expert will know what to do (possibly the water technique) but charge accordingly.

How big are the holes, could you use a tank liner like Redkote instead ?

Please note the opinions above are my own and I do not recommend that you do the welding without further advice. In other words, don't blame me.

Colin

[67hardtop]

Going to have a few weeks off from Wilf. Off to PNG tomorrow - back on Wednesday then off to UK, HK, Singapore and Mongolia. Tough job but someone's got to do it!

I did think about trying to pick up some spares in the UK - but don't think it is worth the bother of carrying them round Asia.

I do have some welding to do on one of the rule tanks at some point. They are empty but there is some fuel residue in the bottom of the tanks. They also smell of petrol. How do you clean out fuel tanks to make them safe for welding? I will post some pictures when I get back and get the tank out.

Hi, I had both my long range tanks welded (s2a) to stop rust going through, (bad bracket welding) and to shift one drain plug hanging down about an inch right in the middle of the tank. The welder sent them out to have them "de gassed". Cost $50 each but came back with a certificate of cleanliness so they could be safely welded. He did a good job too.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app

[Chinookflyer]

Great to be back in the Oz after a month away. One week holiday in the UK and three weeks in Singapore, Hong Kong, China and Mongolia for work. Great to see that Land Rovers and Range Rovers rule in the UK - shame that there seems to be few places to take them off road.

Mongolia looks like an off road paradise with LOTs of Land Cruisers. Fantastic country I would recommend it to anyone.

My Nephew Ricky brought me a key ring for Wilf - so time to get on with it.

Had problems getting the passenger side fuel tank out - I have posted on the main stream to try and get some help. Two of the bolts look impossible. Sure I will get them out in the end.

The last picture is of a wire I found near the fuel tank and hand brake - anyone know where it attaches?

Also got the hand brake lever off. The ratchet does not work. Looks like there might be a missing spring somewhere - one that makes the button on the end push out and pushes a lever against a ratchet to hold the brake on - I would be grateful if anyone knows where this spring should be.

Also got rid of the mud flaps these will need replacing. I also took off the jerry can holders. One is bent to buggery - not sure how I repare or replace - a problem for another day. The farmer who I brought Wilf off said he had used it to reverse into and knock over trees - hence the state of the jerry can holder.

I got a small fuel tank off of ebay so that I could check the engine. It started first time. Seems to run very well with no strange sounds. No smoke. The exhaust is leaking at the point that the pipe goes into the back box. Still not sure if I will get a new system. Not sure how easy this will be.

As I said before this is the first time I have worked on a car so I am really enjoying putting together a workshop - so many toys!

[crackers]

Got some nice heritage spider webs there mate :D

It's fun playing this old car game isn't it.:thumbsup:

[67hardtop]

Hi chinookflyer, that pic is not a jerry can holder they are actually bumperettes as fitted to exmilitary vehicles. Jerry can holders have a solid base on them and straps to hold the jerry cans in.

Cheers Rod :wasntme:

[Chinookflyer]

Thanks Rod. So what was the idea of the bumperete?

[JDNSW]

Bumperettes were fitted to UK (not Aus) military Landrovers, probably to protect lights and body from lousy drivers.

John

[gromit]

They are a small bumper to protect the rear of the vehicle, often referred to locally as 'scone cutters'.

If you know someone with a hydraulic portapac and a compact cylinder you might be able to straighten them.
Looks like the one pictured did it's job, mind you what damage was done to the rear crossmember ? I have a couple of vehicles where they have just transferred the load to the crossmember causing damage.

Colin

[67hardtop]

Bumperettes were fitted to UK (not Aus) military Landrovers, probably to protect lights and body from lousy drivers.

John

What he said. And they were fitted to military land rovers here as ive seen them on a local s2a ex vietnam 109 a couple streets from me. The left hand rear one has a cutout for access to the nato plug

Sent from my GT-P5110 using AULRO mobile app

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The cookie cutters were fitted to SIIa cargo (GS) while jerrycan holders were fitted to SIIa FFR/FFT.

GS cookie cutters
https://static.awm.gov.au/images/collection/items/ACCNUM_SCREEN/P07917.002.JPG

FFT jerry can holders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/271.jpg

Series three all had jerry can holders.

The pommy rear bumperettes are made much lighter than the oz ones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/272.jpg

The pommys also had front ones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/273.jpg

[harry]

those pommy front ones are just soooooo ugly!
good thing our mob fitted brush bars..


ooh, edit, can anyone explain the reason for the yellow disc, I have seen it on dca cars and other non military vehicles

[Lotz-A-Landies]

those pommy front ones are just soooooo ugly!
good thing our mob fitted brush bars..


ooh, edit, can anyone explain the reason for the yellow disc, I have seen it on dca cars and other non military vehiclesIn military parlance it is the Bridge Weight Designation (BWD).

For gross vehicle weights above 3 tonne (IIRC) a number indicating the weight class of bridges the vehicle is permitted to cross.

In the battlefield situation this is important when MPs are controlling bridges that may be damaged. There are sometimes double numbers on trucks indicating tare and gross weights depending if the vehicle is laden or unladen.

In aviation I believe it has a different meaning, and possibly that the vehicle is permitted to travel on live taxiways or runways.

[dreamin']

I read somewhere that the front and rear 'bumperettes' were to allow vehicles to shunt each other up slopes or out of trouble if bogged or otherwise incapacitated.

[LandroverScott]

I read somewhere that the front and rear 'bumperettes' were to allow vehicles to shunt each other up slopes or out of trouble if bogged or otherwise incapacitated.

really to push start on cold mornings, the front higher bumpers meet the rear bumperettes

[Chinookflyer]

Great advice about the bumperettes - thanks

Some real progress over the weekend. Managed to get the passenger side fuel tank off at last - 3 weeks on one bolt is that a record?

After all that hard work i found that the tank had completely rusted through!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1093.jpg

Then the strangest thing happened. I called in to the buy back shop at the local tip to get some scrap metal to practice my pathetic welding technique. And guess what - there laying among all the junk was a S2 land rover fuel tank. I have never seen fuel tanks of any kind at the tip before. So I got it for $30 - i guess it might have a leak - but much better thank the tank I took off,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1094.jpg

I also removed the tow ball. The farmer had taken off the military hook (which I have) and put a standard ball on. He had used a fine collection of washers and spacers to make it fit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1095.jpg

The clutch pedal was struck fast in the up position. So I had a good look at that. Once I had disconnected a pipe from the master cylinder the pedal had full movement and the master cylinder was working well. So the problem must be after the master. I am assuming that the slave cylinder is ceased. So I have removed that and ordered a new one. With any luck that will do the trick - if not I guess it is a blockage in the pipes or god forbid a problem with the clutch itself.

The next BIG job is the removal of the bulk head. I would like to get the clutch and gear box working before I take it out.

I have also noticed quite a bit of oil on the chassis below the steering box - i think this is the only place if can have come from. I have seen steering box restoration sets for sale on the net with gaskets, bearings and seals - should I get one of these? I have not taken the box apart - yet.

[JDNSW]

Clutch - most likely the slave cylinder, or possibly the bell crank shaft siezed.

While you have good access, check the connection between this shaft and the release shaft in the bell housing. This is by a short bit of pipe and two pins. These pins should be checked for distortion or breakage. They must be replaced by the original hardened pins or at worst high tensile bolts. Mild steel bolts will last just long enough for all the floor bolts to rust so they are hard to replace.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Thanks John I will take a look at those bits. Hopefully the new slave cylinder will solve the problem

[gromit]

I have also noticed quite a bit of oil on the chassis below the steering box - i think this is the only place if can have come from. I have seen steering box restoration sets for sale on the net with gaskets, bearings and seals - should I get one of these? I have not taken the box apart - yet.

It will probably be the O-ring seal.
Can be done in situ, you probably just need a gasket and the O-ring.

A couple of pictures here :-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-27.html#post2010788

Drain steering box, remove side cover, extract rocker shaft (noting where the roller for the main nut fits). Hook out the O-ring, replace and re-assemble (assuming nothing else is worn/damaged).
There is an adjuster on the side of the steering box that you may have to re-adjust. If the gasket is the same thickness as the original it may not need adjustment.


Colin

[Chinookflyer]

Thanks Colin. I am going to have to take the steering box off to get the bulk head off the chassis - so would it be best to get the full repair kit

Land Rover Series 2 2A AND 3 Steering BOX Repair KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-2-2A-and-3-Steering-Box-Repair-Kit-/221766915544?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item33a25695d8)

And give the steering box a good restoration or should I just get the o ring?

Thanks

Scott

[gromit]

Thanks Colin. I am going to have to take the steering box off to get the bulk head off the chassis - so would it be best to get the full repair kit

Land Rover Series 2 2A AND 3 Steering BOX Repair KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-2-2A-and-3-Steering-Box-Repair-Kit-/221766915544?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item33a25695d8)

And give the steering box a good restoration or should I just get the o ring?

Thanks

Scott

Scott,

Until you take it apart you won't know whether the kit is needed.
I'd get the side cover gasket & O-ring to start with.

Locally I'm paying about $3 for the gasket and less that $1 for an O-ring.

If it's been run for a long time without oil it may be damaged internally but when it drains out past the O-ring a small amount remains in the bottom. If the main nut & worm are worn/damaged then it's time to look for a s/h steering box.

Out of interest, the Ebay kit looks like the standard **itpart kit that most companies offer, your original parts may be better made.......
Same kit from Paddocks is cheaper Series 2 2A 3 Steering Box Repair Kit (http://www.paddockspares.com/series-3-steering-box-repair-kit.html)

Colin

[Chinookflyer]

I think I have had quite a win. The farmer who I brought Wilf off said he had a winch for him but it was down in Brisbane - but if he could find it he would let me know. Well he contacted me to say he had it up in Bundaberg. So I did a late night run last evening to pick it up. What I did not realise was that the Bamford winch was the original one fitted to Wilf when he was in army service. This is even better - will make the project even more original.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/773.jpg

Roco now my best friend through in two new (but old) front shocks. All for $500 - I think quite a bargain as it comes with all the PTO bits.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/774.jpg

Couple of questions:
Did the army use rope or cable on their winches - looks like it might have been fitted with wire cable?

The shocks have never been used but are over 10 years old - is that a problem?

I am thinking of spraying the shocks black so they look more original. The clutch slave cylinder did not arrive so I cannot test the gear box and make sure that this is the problem with the clutch. So this weekend I will start work on stripping parts off the bulk head (leaving enough to start and test the engine and gear box).

All the best

Scott

[JDNSW]

I thought the front shocks had an eye both ends? (And the rear on swb)

John

[Chinookflyer]

You are right John just checked - front has 2 eyes - these must be for the back.

[JDNSW]

You are right John just checked - front has 2 eyes - these must be for the back.

Rear of swb are also eyes both ends. Could be for lwb rear though. Isn't yours a swb?

John

[Dinty]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-ii-iia/92848d1429263925-series-2a-restoration-image.jpg
It is a 109 John, cheers Dennis

[crackers]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-ii-iia/92848d1429263925-series-2a-restoration-image.jpg
It is a 109 John, cheers Dennis

The bodies don't rust, they get beaten into submission :eek:

[JDNSW]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-ii-iia/92848d1429263925-series-2a-restoration-image.jpg
It is a 109 John, cheers Dennis

Oops! got threads mixed. A problem with the satellite connection, takes so long to get a page up that there is a strong incentive not to check back on a previous page!

John

[Chinookflyer]

Anyone know why I am classified as a fossiker on this site. Length of membership maybe?

[JDNSW]

Number of posts, I believe.

John

[Chinookflyer]

I managed to get quite a lot pf work done on Wilf over the weekend. Replaced the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch and gears are working fine. Even managed to take him for a short drive with a seat tied to the chassis! Went through the transmission and all gears and all worked fine. Even the brakes kind of worked with a LOT of pumping. That will be the last drive for a long time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/475.jpg

I got all the dash panels out and got all the electrics that were inside the cabin through to the engine bay - I am dreading when it comes to getting all those wires reconnected.

I flushed the radiator and engine and then removed the front panel and radiator. I found the panel was rusted through - looks like a difficult repair.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/476.jpg

I also noticed a lot of silicon around the section where the head hose goes into the engine. Looks like someone has tried to stop a leak.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/477.jpg

[JDNSW]

The "rusted through" looks like the headlight bowl, not the front panel - separate part. I'm not sure you can get them new, but should be plenty of good s/h ones about.

John

[67hardtop]

The "rusted through" looks like the headlight bowl, not the front panel - separate part. I'm not sure you can get them new, but should be plenty of good s/h ones about.

John

X2. Just to let you know that headlight bowls are the same as almost all pommy cars of the era including the wiring colour codes being the same as land rover. I got two really good ones of an Austin 1800 some time ago as mine were stuffed at the headlight adjusters. Just a note, the new ones are plastic. Hope this helps.

Cheers Rod:wasntme:

[Chinookflyer]

Many thanks Rod and John. I did not look too carefully when I took the front panel off - I will add this to the list of things I need to finish the project - the list is not too long at this point but getting longer

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/424.jpg

Starting to look very bare without all the body.

Next job is to remove the bulkhead. Off to the Simpson Desert for three weeks next weekend - so this might have to wait for a while!

[Chinookflyer]

I drove up to Mackay last night to pick up some spares I needed for Wilf. Got a good deal on some back seats, windscreen, doors etc etc. also picked up an oil tank. The guy I brought from thought it was for use with the pto - I will post some people pictures

While I was there I noticed he had an Austin Champ for sale. Not sure why but I brought it. Needs a lot of work but will have to wait 2-3 years until the Landy is donehttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/252.jpg

[crackers]

Another Jeep inspired vehicle? Ugly as sin but then again, it IS an Austin. Hope he gets that restored and keeps it in the community, I can't imagine it's overly common.

[JDNSW]

Another Jeep inspired vehicle? Ugly as sin but then again, it IS an Austin. Hope he gets that restored and keeps it in the community, I can't imagine it's overly common.

Jeep inspired, perhaps, but compared to the Landrover it is very distant from the Jeep. designed by a committee (Fighting Vehicles Research Establkishment), and this shows in the design. Austin was merely the contractor who built them, with almost no design input. Engine is a RollsRoyce B40.

Those in Australia are probably the remnants of the 800 that the AMF bought, although a few may be private imports. Austin built about 400 somewhat simplified civilian versions, with an Austin engine (ex-A70 and a few other models), but I don't know if any of these found their way to Australia. As a civilian vehicle they were a flop, mainly due to complexity and high maintenance requirements (an owner once told me his had over 100 grease nipples - he may have been exaggerating, but not by much).

John

[Chinookflyer]

Quite a long time since my last post. Lots on at work and a Simpson Desert trip since my last post. I have made some progress. All electrics now removed from Wilf. I hav got the steering box and column out. The bulk head is just about ready to come out. Now thoughts turning to getting the engine out. Also starting to think about what treatment to give the chassis me how I am going to get him painted.

I was also sutured by this series 1 that I brought. Engine runs. Plan to do a running restoration on it. Needs brakes, water pump, fuel pump and one new spring to get her drivable. Then plan to so full restoration when the 2a is finished. I will start another thread I. The s1 forum.

Strange how addictive these land rovers are!

[Dinty]

Well, I knew we lived 'down under' but that's taking it a bit too far LOL cheers Dennis
ps nice score complete with hoodsticks etc, looking forward to seeing it next month,,.

[Homestar]

Nice, looks like you have enough projects to keep you out of trouble for a while.:)

Now you just need to get it off the ceiling so you can work on it...:D

[Chinookflyer]

So things are taking a lot longer than expected but I have at last got the bulkhead out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1043.jpg

I am left with with a box full of wiring loom that does fill me with some dread - but I guess that is a story for another day

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1044.jpg

The bulkhead looks in quite good nick. Some welding and patching to be done. Then clean off the paint and re-paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1045.jpg

I guess the next step is to get the engine out. I do have an engine crane and a spacer bar to go on it. Could any one provide the following advice

1) should I lift out the engine and gear box together?
2) If I have to remove the gear box and transmission first is this a big bot and how easy will it be for me to screw it up?
3) where do you connect the chains to engine to lift it out

Sorry about the daft questions but remember this time last year I did not know how to use a spanner - actually not that sure I do now!

Thanks

Scott

[crackers]

G'day Scott,

Good to see you doing so well.

I've recently pulled the engine and gearbox from Wombat. Here's the story of that effort.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/220634-restoration-wombat-26.html

I removed the gearbox and transfer case as one unit, leaving the engine in place. The manual and other places talk about a wedge of wood under the rear of the engine but I found that wasn't necessary as the engine was sitting on the crossmember.

For lifting points, I used one of the rear gearbox case bolts to mount a piece of strap with holes in it. At the front, I used one of the gearshift mounting points. The gearbox slid back and lifted out easily.

Although Wombat is a Series 1, it has a 2 1/4 motor. These motors come from the factory with a pair of mounting brackets bolted to the front and rear of the head. I hooked straight onto these. As it happened, my engine mounts were shot so rather than undo them, I just lifted the engine straight up and they parted without complaint.

The whole process is more scary than difficult.

As far as the wiring loom goes, I'll be buying a new one. I've been assured they're easy to fit because they come labelled and with instructions. I suspect that is a bare faced lie because NOTHING involving electrics is straight forward... but maybe I'm being overly cynical :angel:

[Chinookflyer]

G'day Scott,

Good to see you doing so well.

I've recently pulled the engine and gearbox from Wombat. Here's the story of that effort.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/220634-restoration-wombat-26.html

I removed the gearbox and transfer case as one unit, leaving the engine in place. The manual and other places talk about a wedge of wood under the rear of the engine but I found that wasn't necessary as the engine was sitting on the crossmember.

For lifting points, I used one of the rear gearbox case bolts to mount a piece of strap with holes in it. At the front, I used one of the gearshift mounting points. The gearbox slid back and lifted out easily.

Although Wombat is a Series 1, it has a 2 1/4 motor. These motors come from the factory with a pair of mounting brackets bolted to the front and rear of the head. I hooked straight onto these. As it happened, my engine mounts were shot so rather than undo them, I just lifted the engine straight up and they parted without complaint.

The whole process is more scary than difficult.

As far as the wiring loom goes, I'll be buying a new one. I've been assured they're easy to fit because they come labelled and with instructions. I suspect that is a bare faced lie because NOTHING involving electrics is straight forward... but maybe I'm being overly cynical :angel:


Many thanks. That is interesting - so you took the gear box and transmission out first. I had not thought about that. I am going to give it a go next weekend. The gearbox and engine simply seperate I guess.

Yes I will get a new loom when I come to rebuilding. I guess it might be a little more difficult being a military S2a

I am also doing a running restoration on a a series 1 in parallel with the 2a. I am having a lot of fun with a water pump at the moment. I will get some pictures up on the S1 forum soon.

I hope wombat is going well

Thanks again

Scott

[JDNSW]

Gearbox and transfer case, just unbolt the bell housing and move it back enough for the shaft to clear the clutch. It will bind in the clutch plate and may damage it (but you'll fit a new one anyway) unless you keep it pretty straight - check by keeping the gap between the bell housing and flywheel housing even.

As the book says - support the engine on the cross member - if it is sitting on it, either the cross member is bent or the engine mounts sagged; or both.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Big day - got the engine out of Wilf!! No big drama which was a surprise.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/765.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/766.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/767.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/768.jpg

Main reason for getting the engine out is to get at the chassis so that I can sand blast and protect it before the big rebuild. I will clean the engine up and give it a paint. It does run but I am wondering what work I should do while it is out - or should I take it to a mechanic for an overhaul??

Next job is to get the gear box and transmission out.

A really good weekend - I also manged to change the water pump on Kath my series one.

[crackers]

Looks good.
What bolts did you use/need to mount the engine to the stand?

[JDNSW]

What work is a good idea while the engine is out depends on its condition. I would be inclined to pull the sump and head and look at the internals as a minimum, and go from there. Could be a minimum of a decoke and new head and sump gasket. But while it is off, have a good look at the manifolds for missing or damaged studs, and look for cracks in the exhaust manifold. Repair as necessary. Have a good look at the core plugs in the block and replace if there is any doubt at all. In fact, I would probably replace the one in the back of the block anyway, as it is almost impossible to replace with the engine in place. Check the water pump for any signs of leaking or roughness in the bearing.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Looks good.
What bolts did you use/need to mount the engine to the stand?


Just standard ones from Bunnings - did try high tensile but they did not fit. They do seem strong enough????

[Chinookflyer]

What work is a good idea while the engine is out depends on its condition. I would be inclined to pull the sump and head and look at the internals as a minimum, and go from there. Could be a minimum of a decoke and new head and sump gasket. But while it is off, have a good look at the manifolds for missing or damaged studs, and look for cracks in the exhaust manifold. Repair as necessary. Have a good look at the core plugs in the block and replace if there is any doubt at all. In fact, I would probably replace the one in the back of the block anyway, as it is almost impossible to replace with the engine in place. Check the water pump for any signs of leaking or roughness in the bearing.

John

Do you reckon I could do that work myself - I have never work d on an engine before - then again I have never taken one out before!

[crackers]

Just standard ones from Bunnings - did try high tensile but they did not fit. They do seem strong enough????

I actually meant length, diameter and thread. I'm also surprised you got them from Bunnings. Don't they screw into the block? In which case, they'd be some weird pommy thread wouldn't they? Or am I confused again?:confused:

[Chinookflyer]

I actually meant length, diameter and thread. I'm also surprised you got them from Bunnings. Don't they screw into the block? In which case, they'd be some weird pommy thread wouldn't they? Or am I confused again?:confused:

Sorry I miss the understood - 10cm long. They were imperial thread. I took a nut which fitted the size of thread on the plug that went into the housing and it all worked fine. They did have them in a range of lengths. I thought you were going to tell me that they were not going to be strong enough. All the best Scott

[JDNSW]

Do you reckon I could do that work myself - I have never work d on an engine before - then again I have never taken one out before!

If you have a factory workshop manual*, and ask questions here, I can't see why not. You seem to be doing OK so far.

*The factory manual details each operation step by step, and has a list of required tools at the top.

John

[Chinookflyer]

OK it looks like I need to: 1) clean and paint, 2) replace all core plugs, 3) replace head gasket, 4) replace oil seals and gaskets, 5) check bores, 6) decoke the engine. Have not got a clue how to do any of this so I better get reading! I was also wondering if I should replace the water pump while I have the engine out?

Comments and suggestions most welcome

[JayBee75]

OK it looks like I need to: 1) clean and paint, 2) replace all core plugs, 3) replace head gasket, 4) replace oil seals and gaskets, 5) check bores, 6) decoke the engine. Have not got a clue how to do any of this so I better get reading! I was also wondering if I should replace the water pump while I have the engine out?

Comments and suggestions most welcome

Are you just using the Landy restoration manual?

[JDNSW]

OK it looks like I need to: 1) clean and paint, 2) replace all core plugs, 3) replace head gasket, 4) replace oil seals and gaskets, 5) check bores, 6) decoke the engine. Have not got a clue how to do any of this so I better get reading! I was also wondering if I should replace the water pump while I have the engine out?

Comments and suggestions most welcome

Unless the water pump is leaking or rough to turn, I would leave it - they are easy enough to replace with the engine in, and are fairly expensive.

John

[Chinookflyer]

Another good day. Managed to get the gearbox and transmission out along with the propeller shafts. Any suggestions for what I should do with the box while it is out. It seems to work fine - even seems to be sync between the the lower gears - it is a 71 model so this might have been fitted??

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/550.jpg

It is now living under Kath my Series 1 project

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/551.jpg

The chassis is starting to look quite naked

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/552.jpg

I have started removing all the steering which is connected to the chassis - had to use some brute force to crack some of the steering joints. Next I will start to think about removing the springs, diffs and the rest of the running gear. On the whole the chassis is in VERY good condition. There are however a couple of spots of rust on the back cross member.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/553.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/554.jpg

My intention is to cut these out and have a go at welding come new plates in. Should I do this before I get the chassis blasted after - not sure?

All the best

Scott

[crackers]

That gearbox looks quite happy hiding under Kath - you may have trouble separating them :angel:

I'm finding that despite the chassis looking naked, there about a zillion bits and pieces bolted to it :mad:

I'll be interested in your cutting and welding efforts. What sort of welder will you be using? (arc, mig, oxy) Are you an expert welder or a beginner like me?

[Is Vic There]

You'd be better getting the chassis blasted prior to carrying out any welding, the blasting could uncover some areas that also might need attention, might as well carry out all the required work in one hit.

[Chinookflyer]

That gearbox looks quite happy hiding under Kath - you may have trouble separating them :angel:

I'm finding that despite the chassis looking naked, there about a zillion bits and pieces bolted to it :mad:

I'll be interested in your cutting and welding efforts. What sort of welder will you be using? (arc, mig, oxy) Are you an expert welder or a beginner like me?

No expert but in the words of the great Clarkson - how hard can it be?

MIG gas

Not too much left to take off

[Gerokent]

No expert but in the words of the great Clarkson - how hard can it be?

And we've all seen some of the jobs hes done :p

[crackers]

Remember the golden rule: Never do anything you can't undo... even if it means dragging the remains to an expert and throwing money at him until he does the job for you (guess how I know this :angel:)

A MIG welder - you lucky so and so. I expect you know how to use it too. Hmmph. :p
There's just not enough steel in a Landy to justify buying a MIG welder, plus doing a course on how to use it. Different if I was restoring a Mini or an MG... or lots of them. Let's face it, I'm in completely the wrong industry (library) :(

[crackers]

No expert but in the words of the great Clarkson - how hard can it be?

And we've all seen some of the jobs hes done :p

I know he's carefully cultivated the 'most ridiculous man on earth' tag but I've often wondered just how hopeless he really is. He's highly intelligent and seems a good bloke when playing himself, not the part, but he could still be a complete numpty when it comes to mechanicals. Gee, he might even have a partially restored Landy in the garage :eek:

Now, back to the Series 2a that is supposed to be the subject of this discussion :cool:

[Chinookflyer]

Remember the golden rule: Never do anything you can't undo... even if it means dragging the remains to an expert and throwing money at him until he does the job for you (guess how I know this :angel:)

A MIG welder - you lucky so and so. I expect you know how to use it too. Hmmph. :p
There's just not enough steel in a Landy to justify buying a MIG welder, plus doing a course on how to use it. Different if I was restoring a Mini or an MG... or lots of them. Let's face it, I'm in completely the wrong industry (library) :(

Plan to do a lot of practice runs before and cut out and weld. If the practice does not go well I guess I will get an expert in to do the job. I have had the Mig for a while - very useful bit of kit. This project is teaching me a lot of new skills - so why not welding.

[Chinookflyer]

I know he's carefully cultivated the 'most ridiculous man on earth' tag but I've often wondered just how hopeless he really is. He's highly intelligent and seems a good bloke when playing himself, not the part, but he could still be a complete numpty when it comes to mechanicals. Gee, he might even have a partially restored Landy in the garage :eek:

Now, back to the Series 2a that is supposed to be the subject of this discussion :cool:

Not sure that he would be very impressed with a 2a!

[Dark61]

Plan to do a lot of practice runs before and cut out and weld. If the practice does not go well I guess I will get an expert in to do the job. I have had the Mig for a while - very useful bit of kit. This project is teaching me a lot of new skills - so why not welding.


Being more or less the class idiot (for a variety of reasons) One of the tasks I have set myself is to get to grips with welding at some point. It would be good to see how you get on.
cheers,
D

[Dinty]

Well, I spent a little over an hour this afternoon @ this location, had a good bo-peep at what n how he is going, the verdict>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
he is doing OK for a bloke like me who knows very little, but he is on a steep learning curve, if he is agree-able, I would love to go over on Saturday morning and dismantle his front end for him, anyway a phone call in the morning will sort that out LOL cheers Dennis
ps it was good to put a face to the name this afternoon,, cheers,,.

[Chinookflyer]

Well, I spent a little over an hour this afternoon @ this location, had a good bo-peep at what n how he is going, the verdict>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
he is doing OK for a bloke like me who knows very little, but he is on a steep learning curve, if he is agree-able, I would love to go over on Saturday morning and dismantle his front end for him, anyway a phone call in the morning will sort that out LOL cheers Dennis
ps it was good to put a face to the name this afternoon,, cheers,,.

Wish I knew a quarter of what you know Dennis lets touch base tomorrow - would love a hand on Sat I have been dreading those springs!!

[Chinookflyer]

I had a call from Dennis - Dinty. He was in Rockhampton and wanted to come over and take a look at my LRs. No problem with that I normally can't get anyone to enter the shed and be bored by my progress. Anyway Dennis came round last week and took a good look at Kath and Wilf. He then texted me to see if I wanted a hand on Saturday. Did I want an hand - of course. So On Saturday I had the pleasure of working with a true LR expert.

In a day we managed to get the steering, suspension, and difs off the 2a. I learnt more about land rovers in one day than reading about ten books on the subject.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/228.jpg

The chassis is just about ready to go off and be blasted. Many thanks Dennis. I am looking forward to visiting his collection in December.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/229.jpg

[Chinookflyer]

While Dennis was in Rocky I asked him to show me how to get a core plug out. Basically you hit it on one side - we used a socket extension - did not take a picture but here is the place using a screw driver
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/225.jpg
You then prize it out on the opposite side with a screw driver

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/226.jpg

And that's it

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/227.jpg

It was that easy wasn't it Dennis?

Now I will take off the manifolds take the other plugs out (including the one on the back of the engine) clean the block out with a pressure hose and re-fit.

[Is Vic There]

Well done lads, keep up the good work.

[Dinty]

Well, I'm back home, I like a little drive now n then, we left Rocky @ 0020hrs and arrived home @ 1730hrs EST, we had many stops to let the 2 Poodles have a walk n a drink, and I drove all but for 1 hour where I let my wife have a drive as she was getting hot sitting in the passenger seat
Anyway back to the subject at hand, mate I'm no expert just had lots of experience LOL, and it all comes down to the correct sequence of dismantling/removing, that all comes from experience and I'm sure a chap of your caliber, you will master it soon, I did enjoy myself for that 5.5hrs I was @ your place, the light lunch provided by your wife was first class (but boy was I thirsty later LOL), anyway Scott it was a pleasure to meet you and help out with your project, cheers mate Dennis
ps ?? did I see you on CQ channel 71 news on Monday night???

[Chinookflyer]

Well, I'm back home, I like a little drive now n then, we left Rocky @ 0020hrs and arrived home @ 1730hrs EST, we had many stops to let the 2 Poodles have a walk n a drink, and I drove all but for 1 hour where I let my wife have a drive as she was getting hot sitting in the passenger seat
Anyway back to the subject at hand, mate I'm no expert just had lots of experience LOL, and it all comes down to the correct sequence of dismantling/removing, that all comes from experience and I'm sure a chap of your caliber, you will master it soon, I did enjoy myself for that 5.5hrs I was @ your place, the light lunch provided by your wife was first class (but boy was I thirsty later LOL), anyway Scott it was a pleasure to meet you and help out with your project, cheers mate Dennis
ps ?? did I see you on CQ channel 71 news on Monday night???

Thanks again. Probably I am a bit of a media Tart! Hoping to visit you on the morning of the 16th of December if that is OK.

[Dinty]

See you then mate cheers Dennis

[Chinookflyer]

OK after a long break I am back on the job. Chassis now fully stripped and at the plant waiting to be sand blasted. They have offered to powder coat it after it has been blasted and welded up - is this a good idea - help!

[67hardtop]

Hi, ive just had my s2a chassis sandblasted and painted. The main reason i went for painting is that if u get a chip in ur powder coating water can get in under the coating and then the rust starts and u cant see it. One day a big chunk of coating will lift up and then underneath is lots of rust. At least with paint u can see whats going on. Just my opinion.😆. Good luck with ur build.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Loubrey]

Powder coating can be good if they follow all the steps. If you miss just one the result will be as per Rod's post.

It needs to be chemically cleaned to form a sticky bond, primed with proprietary primer, chemically cleaned again to form the sticky bond and then powder coated. Regardless of hype, powder coat does not stick effectively enough to steel to be a viable solution...

If they guarantee the result it could be good, but more than likely it will be the powder on steel option to be avoided.

Cheers,

Lou

[Dinty]

I have never had anything powder coated, but if you go down that path, I would be looking to blank off the holes in the chassis where the spring bushes fit in, as the powder coating could build up thick enough to make re-fitting new shackle bushes very difficult, just my thoughts cheers n good to see you back onto the job, cheers Dennis

[67hardtop]

I actually fitted my chassis bushes before my chassis was sandblasted as the sand blasting wont hurt the bushes if ur using the standard type bushes that is.

Cheers Rod

Edit...i suppose it also depends where ur rust repairs will be as well.
Cheers
Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Chinookflyer]

The chassis is now sand blasted. All the rot cut out (there away,not much) and welded up. Now painted with a two pack. I used this because it is used on trucks here in Central Queensland. Supposed to be very rough. I have hand painted it with roller and brush - not a perfect finish but I am pleased with it. It is good to at least one big part of the Land Rover that is clean.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/512.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/513.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/514.jpg

[Dinty]

That is looking very smart, cheers Dennis

[Chinookflyer]

Thanks Denis had a real slow start to the year due to work but well into again. Very pleased how well that back cross member has come up.

Also got the water pump fitted to the S1 - will have a go at fitting one of your springs next weekend. The engine on it fires up almost on first turn.

All the best Scott

[ezyrama]

Very nice, look forward to watching the build up. Makes me want to do a 3rd one, but SWMBO would leave me if I did. Hey, that would make more room in the workshop:cool:

[Chinookflyer]

I have spent the past couple of weeks working on the springs. Dennis had provided fantastic instructions on how to do this - thanks mate. This is what the looked like before I started:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/57.jpg

First job was to take them apart by bending out the spring clamps.Then clamped the spring together before removing the center bolt. Then removed the clamps and pulled the leafs apart.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/58.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/59.jpg

Out came the bushes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/60.jpg

I then cleaned them up using a flap sander on an angle grinder and a wire brush. Here is the before and after result:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/61.jpg

Found this on them:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/62.jpg

Then lightly greased the leafs and put them back together. Used de-greaser to get them clean before etch priming and painting. and here is the finished result:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/63.jpg

I then took apart the shakles, sand blasted them in my small cabinet, primed and painted - and here is the before and after:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/64.jpg

I have done the front and rear springs. the rear springs are easier because they have bolts rather than bent clamps. Very happy with the result.

Now into the cleaning blasting and painting stage. I am trying a few parts in molasses - but because Wilf was given a very rough paint job and most parts have paint on them I think most parts are going to have to be blasted - we will see.

[Homestar]

You've done well, I only got to the pulling them to bits stage, then I just chucked them in the bin as it looked way too much like hard work. I still have to order the replacements yet. :D

[Chinookflyer]

It was a lot of dirty work - but rewarding when you get to the painting stage. I nearly gave up half way through the second front spring when I realized that the first one I had done had a leaf missed out - it had got missed up with the rear leafs!!!! so I had to unbend and re-bend the clamps for a second time. I think replacements are quite expensive - maybe I am just a tight arse!

[JDNSW]

The numbers should make it easy to get the springs back in the right place - remember right and left are not the same!

John

[Homestar]

It was a lot of dirty work - but rewarding when you get to the painting stage. I nearly gave up half way through the second front spring when I realized that the first one I had done had a leaf missed out - it had got missed up with the rear leafs!!!! so I had to unbend and re-bend the clamps for a second time. I think replacements are quite expensive - maybe I am just a tight arse!

They are expensive, which is one reason I still don't have them. :D. Not nearly as expensive as some other bits I've bought, so not bothered in the grand scheme of things, it just takes a bit longer to do.

[Chinookflyer]

One small step for Land Rover a giant leap for Wilf the Land Rover. The first part goes back onto the chassis. The rebuild begins

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/946.jpg

[Dinty]

Your going well there mate, cheers Dennis

[Chinookflyer]

Just purchased this - lots of projects backing up!

[Chinookflyer]

Cleaned the axle cases and differentials up with wire brushes on a drill and angle grinder. Range of sizes helped. Then primed them. I used a coat of etch primer followed by a coat of standard primer. Then painted satin black - all with rattle cans

The axle case before work

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/659.jpg

After some work with wire brush

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/660.jpg

Primed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/661.jpg

The finished product

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/662.jpg

And the same series for the diffs

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/663.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/664.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/665.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/666.jpg

Onto the prop shafts next I think.