Dead speakers and Audio Upgrade

[TheTree]

Hi

I began investigating my speakers and discovered some pretty ugly things!

Subwoofer driver (early type with single driver) surround is totally perished

Mid Range drivers, 3 out of 4 had warped cones.

Woofers, drivers side completely seized.

So i have replaced all the mid-range drivers with Visaton FRS7's, as per Hoges suggestion

The subwoofer driver is a 10" dual coil 4 ohm driver, impossible to replace

The door woofers are 6.5 inch nominal. The frame which holds them is 166mm diameter or a little larger.

The best fit I can find so far are these

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/silver-flute-woofers-6-7/silver-flute-w17rc38-04-ohm-6-1/2-wool-cone/

The Visaton 6.5 inch ones are actually a 187mm diameter frame

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/V-9024-
W170S/W+170+S+-+4+Ohm

So unless I can find something else the silver flutes will be going in

Pic of some of the old speakers attached and yes that is a see through hole in the subwoofer surround!

Steve

[Keithy P38]

My speakers and woofers were replaced with Polk Audio 6.5" units. All up cost about $300 and came with a driver for each. They also came with tweeters.

Got them from Autobarn.

Cheers
Keithy

[TheTree]

My speakers and woofers were replaced with Polk Audio 6.5" units. All up cost about $300 and came with a driver for each. They also came with tweeters.

Got them from Autobarn.

Cheers
Keithy

I thought about the coaxials but decided to try to keep it as a three way system

Most of those coaxials sound pretty good though!

Steve

[Hoges]

Steve, FWIW I resurrected a pair of 10" drivers for a stereo using new surrounds I obtained from "Speaker Bits" . The old ones were worse than in yr photo... The kit came with glue included and a set of instructions on how to align the driver with the magnet... quite satisfactory outcome for fraction of price of replacement speaker. I also refurb'd the two base drivers in the p38's subwoofer similarly.

[TheTree]

Steve, FWIW I resurrected a pair of 10" drivers for a stereo using new surrounds I obtained from "Speaker Bits" . The old ones were worse than in yr photo... The kit came with glue included and a set of instructions on how to align the driver with the magnet... quite satisfactory outcome for fraction of price of replacement speaker. I also refurb'd the two base drivers in the p38's subwoofer similarly.

Hoges you are a man of many talents :D

I thought about a recone as well, I has some Mordaunt-Short drivers reconed by SPEAKERWORKS Australia (http://speakerworks.com.au/) and they sound great.

The original door woofers are nothing special so I think replacement is a better option there.

I have decided I would rather have the space tan the subwoofer and I'll probably go with the kenwood KSC-SW11 as I did with my other rangie.

[p38arover]

The subwoofer driver is a 10" dual coil 4 ohm driver, impossible to replace

Maybe: http://www.speakerbits.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&layout=item&id=7&Itemid=110

[TheTree]

Well I went for the silver flute woofers and they arrived in quick time from the US.

They are indeed a perfect fit in the original mounts, so it is basically the same as what Stefan did on the stockholmviews web page, except I used nuts and bolts with a dab of permatex blue to stop them vibrating loose. I wouldn't trust self tappers there, nuts and bolts are however a fiddly two person job:angel:

It sounds pretty nice I must say :D

Next step is to replace the tweeters and put a proper crossover in the hollow behind the door handles.

<GEEK>For the audio geeks I am using a second order Linkwitz-Riley crossover at 6K, the FRS7's are a "full range" speaker and they have a bit of a lump at 10K so I want them well attenuated by that point. </GEEK>

I have added a couple of pics to show the new woofers mounted and a comparison between the new and the old to show the difference in magnet size.

I am also going to add subwoofers back in at some point

As well I have wired up a noise free connection for an aftermarket head unit, using the Nexxia kit. As Ron said in a thread on rr.net the original Nexxia lead would never work without buzzing and noise. I will make a separate post about that.

Steve

[Keithy P38]

I'm interested in the "noise free" bit you mention - I'm a bit in the dark with this as I'm still running the factory head unit.

I was thinking about putting a separate head unit in the rear, run off the aux battery through all speakers, used for camping (with the benefit of being able to use it over the factory unit for Bluetooth, etc while driving).

Would I experience noise if I were to do this just as a DIY type setup?

Cheers
Keithy

[TheTree]

I'm interested in the "noise free" bit you mention - I'm a bit in the dark with this as I'm still running the factory head unit.

I was thinking about putting a separate head unit in the rear, run off the aux battery through all speakers, used for camping (with the benefit of being able to use it over the factory unit for Bluetooth, etc while driving).

Would I experience noise if I were to do this just as a DIY type setup?

Cheers
Keithy

Mate

Since you have a MY99 with the alpine head unit the nexxia lead will work just fine.

Edit: Nexxia says you don't need an adaptor lead at all, which I now remember is true, but you still need the attenuator or at least I did because the volume control was way to sensitive. I think some of the better units have an output level control

one of these from supercheap is 299
Kenwood KDC-U563BT

And of course you still need an adaptor lead, i'm pretty sure this is the one
Aerpro Wiring Harness - APP8KE1, to suit Kenwood 2005 on, 16 pin plug

This is what I had to add to my My99 by cutting into the adaptor lead;

http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html

If you don't want a screen you can get kenwood, pioneer etc with bluetooth which is excellent.

Wiring a head unit in the back into the car system would be a nightmare I reckon :eek:

You could of course run a head unit and a pair of speakers in the back totally separate from the factory system

Steve

[Keithy P38]

I already have 12 speakers to choose from though!

It was just a thought I guess! Would be good, that way I can keep the factory unit (I quite like the look of the standard unit).

I was going to splice it into the speaker-outs from the factory head unit and be done with it, seems it may be more work than that! A separate unit and two speakers in the rear might be easier!

Cheers
Keithy

[garybrook]

Mate

Since you have a MY99 with the alpine head unit the nexxia lead will work just fine.....

..... Wiring a head unit in the back into the car system would be a nightmare I reckon :eek:

You could of .....

Steve

YES! Absolutely. Pictures are coming, but it's a bit of a dogs breakfast when I opened it to have a look. The previous owner installed a newer Alpine 102E and also installed a VDO MS5400 Nav system.

It does work and integrates to the steering wheel controls, but it's not even close to 'professional' standards. Perhaps very few people in Australia had the knowledge and skills to install this equipment.

At the moment the subwoofers are shut down or broken and some unusual homemade electronic board in the audio system behind the console, so I would appreciate any advice on what it is and what it does, as this is still relevent within this discussion as I have pulled out part of the console and dash to remove my heater matrix.

Regarding about that matrix, I promise to start another thread as I have bought a new matrix and I have some concerns with its contruction.

Gary.

[TheTree]

Gary

I just sorted out most of a dogs breakfast behind my radio as well :o

Mine had the third plug the "C" connector cut off completely and some wires hacked and soldered back in :mad:

I managed to work most of it out but will have to nut out some more wiring when my steering wheel control adaptor arrives.

I found this P38 pinout on the a thread in rr.net which does not seem to quite match mine, I think it may be for a Alpine head unit.

Steve

[TheTree]

Mate

Yours looks professional compared to mine :twisted:

The little board in there is mot likely the attenuator as described on this page

Aftermarket Head Unit Adaptation for Range Rover 4.0/4.6 (http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html)

The lack of a subwwoofer may mean it's not connected (it's the last 2 pins on that rather rare 10 pin ISO connector as per the diagramme) or the head unit does not have a subwoofer output

I will say however that adding an aftermarket head unit greatly increases the amount of spaghetti in there!

Steve

[TheTree]

This is a 9 out of 10 on the hack scale!

The "B" connector has been completely cut off and three of the wires were soldered and spliced into the "A" connector wires with a massive loop of cable and in inline fuse holder :o

These three wires seem to power the dash and the fuel gauge as we found out! Could this be the reason for the fuel gauge weirdness in some models? The other chopped off wires are the steering wheel controls

Also the connector to the head unit had it's end hacked out so the 10-PIN connector would go in it :( Of course the subwoofer was not connected at all!

Steve

[benji]

Garry, that circuit board simply drops the voltage supply from speaker voltage to ideally 3 or 4 volts for the door amps.

I've just put a clarion nz502a, though its the fourth unit I've put in.

Througout the various head units, 3 or 4 volt pre-outs work the best, and they need to be independantly ground else you get an earth loop.
With 1 volt pre-outs I couldn't get any volume, and at speaker voltage turning up to 1 would be to loud for general listening.






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