extractors = burnt out starter

[crossy]

is this a common problem?
holden six with extractors on a series -

i have just lost another starter motor on the series 111 :evil:
second one in a year. I think the problem is the closeness of the extractors to the starter motor. too much heat.

has any one fitted fibre glass tape or heat shields?
i think the tape should fix the problem but want to know how well it holds up to mud, water and gunk over time.

Its not all bad - i'm getting good at kick starting the bastard.

[incisor]

header tape on extractors = good, as long as they are steel pipe not stainless steel or some sort of alloy.

steel will crack with age as they become soft from the slow cooling tempering them. the odd creek can fix that tho style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif

i have header tape on my pipes back past the gearbox and overdrive and it really cuts down the noise and heat from the holden engine.

also fitted to my disco from the flexable back to the rear of the gearbox, cuts down noise and heat in cabin heaps...

the 50mm tape on a half-lap wrap works great. a hose clamp at each end to stop it unwrapping and away you go style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif

[OldDog]

G'day Crossy, i run header tape on my bike, it uses stainless headers and the tape cuts the heat right down, they get the odd dose of water and gunk and clean up ok, the heat soon drys the tape out again style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif + as incisor says it cuts down a fair bit of noise, no sign of it coming apart. Can't say i've ever had much trouble with holden sixes+extractors & the heat burning out the starter? I'd say a cheaper option would be to make up a heat shield and bolt it on via the manifold bolts, or if your engines an early one (EH - HK) there are bosses on the block you can bolt it too in front and above the starter. Hope that helped :roll: style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif , i'm interested in how you get on as i'm doing the holden conversion at the moment.
Bill

[crossy]

thanks guys. i'm sold on the tape solution.
didnt think of the noise issue. added bonus in a series style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif

[Phoenix]

I'm not sure that is what your problem is. I've got extractors on mine, and whilst close to the starter, it hasn't missed a beat yet.

That said, after I make some changes to my exhaust to accomodate an overdrive, i'll be putting the tape on mine as well.

[Michael2]

Try the heatshield as well as the tape. The RR has a heatshield that protects the starter and the engine mount, obviously holden had them too. Just fashion a shield out of bent tin, drill a hole in it and bolt it onto something. (better make that 2 holes to reduce reverberation).

Now if you had a Land Rover motor, you'd have had a starter handle. All these cross-species organ transplants are not good for the health of the breed. :wink:

[discowhite]

wont be the heat!
if if you need a new starter, the best ones to get are the
high torque ones, the body is smaller than the old ones
and it cranks i bit slower. i use them cos you can get the
starter in and out with out removing the extractors.
bought one last year brand new for $119.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Try making up a alloy heat shield. They are rally good at stopping the heat.

[rangie5litre]

I now have the tape on my 5L exhaust, the starter is one of those tiny
índuction' type ones. It was originally wrapped in silvery foil like stuff, was OK until it went crispy and melted to the ign wire that goes to the starter! I took that off and wrapped 3 metres of 'glass tape around the pipe near the starter instead. I'll do the same down both sides of the trans. as well and around the crossover pipe too. It's amazing how much heat is tranferred thru the floor! Good luck! 8) Cheers Scott.

[shaunp]

In my boy racer days I had lotts of hot red motors with big cams, big heads & 3 carbys all had extractors and never had problems with cooking starters.

[crossy]

the first time it failed was after doing around 3 hours of low range driving, mostly first and second gear stuff. both the solonoid and field windings were stuffed. I put this down to lack of air flow blowing the heat away.
It could just be the replacement unit was allready on its way out. Bummer. then again it was only a $30 special from the wrekers. style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif

at the moment the six is a hk? 186s which should have the heat shield mounts, but i dont think there would be enough room as the pipes are real close. dosnt matter anyway. The tape sounds like the best option. Even if heat is not the problem, keeping under bonnet temps down and the sound dedening will be worth it.

Michael2 - wrote
---------------
Now if you had a Land Rover motor, you'd have had a starter handle. All these cross-species organ transplants are not good for the health of the breed.
--------------------
mate, i'm not driving a land rover. its a hk monaro with a landie body, chassis and running gear. :mrgreen:

[Hellspawn]

There is/was a set from 'genie' of extractors that instead of hugging the block then going under the firewall they come out toward the guard then split either side of the engine mount and back under the firewall. I guess they would be the go if you could afford to change. Tape gets expensive if doing long distances, more so if you have twin pipes. 8O

Would have gone that way myself except I had VK commodo stuff lying around.

[Hellspawn]

Originally posted by shaunp
In my boy racer days I had lotts of hot red motors with big cams, big heads & 3 carbys all had extractors and never had problems with cooking starters.

Growing old is inevitable..... growing up is optional. :mrgreen:

[PeterM]

Remeber that it is not an uncommon fault with the Holden 6s for the starter to be temperamental. A bit of percussion maintenance usually does the trick.

As for the heat thing, go the tape and heatshield, makes a huge difference.

[OldDog]

Only thing i can add here Crossy is that the stuff you're after is readily available at exhaust shops. Plus the best way to attach it is to use hose clamps at each end of the wrap + i use stainless wire to wrap the rest of it to keep it tightened down.