Confusion over using the supplied jack

[wbowner]

Hi,
I know this has been done to death a bit and that the supplied jack is crap according to many people but I am about to use the thing, picked up a nail causing a slow leak.
I nave a MY14 D4 - 5 seat

I have a few questions which I hope people can help with.


1. I have read many threads here and else where which state to raise to offload height and leave the door open.

I have read the manual and it does state to raise to offroad height but nothing about leaving the door open (ref p228 of handbook ). It does say to turn on the hazard lights, not sure if that helps or is just a motherhood.

2. I have read about people using bottle jacks under the strut arm. Where abouts on the strut do you put the jack - I am a mechanical dunce so please forgive. Does any one have pics of this?

3.I have read that some people trick the car by putting the jack under the strut, jack it up about 25mm, wait a second or two, release a little pressure to drop 10mm and magic happens, the wheel lifts off the ground. Has any one done this and if so do you have the doors open or closed?

4. Some people use trolly jacks. Do you still use the same jacking point as when using the sissor jack. There are no other positions documented in the handbook for any other type of lifting.

I do have a 2 tonne bottle jack I cart around in my van, this would not be enough I suppose

Thanks for any help,
Richard

[Ean Austral]

I seem to recall you leave the door open so the car doesn't start trying to level itself whilst you jack it up.


I have used the standard jack heaps of times, and it has been fine in a garage environment, and am sure yours will be. When you remove the wheel, put it under the chassis incase the jack does fail it will stop the car falling to far. Don't work under the car and you should be fine. You insert the nipple on the top of the jack into the hole on the chassis rail near the wheel you are changing as per the instruction manual, just be careful where the suspension compressor is as its close to the spot on the rear drivers side,


I think the complaints about the standard jack are more related to off road situations where I can see it would be rubbish.


I bent the tyre brace thing they supply as standard so carry a socket and bar with me all the time for wheel changing.


Hope this helps.


Cheers Ean

[wbowner]

Ean,
Thanks for the reply.

The consensus seems to leave the door open, I would have thought LR would have included this is the handbook.

I will be at home so doing it in a controlled environment.

I am going to put a plug in the tyre and do not want to let the spare down.

I have some jack stands which I will put under the chassis.

Richard

[Tote]

The other thing to remember is to use the supplied wheel chocks or the car will roll off the jack particularly if you are jacking the rear.

Regards,
Tote

[LRD414]

Richard,

Door open is not in the manual because it's not required for jacking from the chassis jacking points. You can jack from the chassis using scissor, bottle or trolley, particularly in a workshop/driveway situation. There's lots of threads on different bottle jacks and problems with using the scissor offroad. I've used the factory scissor and a bottle jack at home without issue.

As an alternative, jacking from the wishbone is quite common and also does not require an open door or a particular type of jack. It requires a lot less jacking because the suspension does some of the work. There's probably plenty of threads here but I quite like this Disco3 one, especially the photos in CUCO's gallery.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - A better way to jack it up? (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic84316.html)

An open door doesn't stop self leveling but rather prevents a selected height change, say from Normal to Access. This can be useful, I think Gordon covered it at the seminar in the context of hitching a van. Here's a great thread on that topic:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/136911-disabling-auto-height-air-suspension.html

To prevent any adjustments, the main suspension ecu fuse in the engine bay fuse box needs to be removed but that's not required for jacking.

Cheers,
Scott

[jonesfam]

I thought, could be wrong, you open a door to stop the car going into Super-Extended height?
Most times I jack with the doors closed the car is in Super Extended when the jack is removed.
It may? also stop the car pushing the wheel down as you jack.
Jonesfam

[LRD414]

I thought, could be wrong, you open a door to stop the car going into Super-Extended height?

Possibly. Super Extended is driver-activated after Extended is activated by the vehicle, either by actual grounding or simulated grounding with a jack or block of wood. The best summary of Super Extended I've seen is by Gordon (copied below & at link).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1661658-post19.html

If you need to raise the car to it's MAXIMUM height, without waiting for it to select extended height automatically, then follow this procedure with the car stationary, engine running, in low range and in Park:

1. Place the car in whatever TR program required (normally rock-crawl).
2. Raise the car to offroad if it has not already automatically raised (as it should when you select a TR program).
3. Use the LR jack and position it under the driver's jack location under the chassis rail. Wind up the jack until it has just taken the weight of the car (you can do this by hand).
4. Get into the car, close the driver's door and select "normal" height with the EAS switch. Don't apply the footbrake!
5. The car will attempt to lower, sense the obstruction and then raise 35mm above offroad.
6. Now apply the footbrake, and hold the EAS switch in the "up" position until the car chimes and raises a further 30mm or so.
7. Remove the jack from under the car!

Not sure why you'd want to interrupt that process but it may halt if you open the door during step 6. Also, you don't need these extended modes for jacking but I guess you could jack from extended.

Cheers,
Scott

[wbowner]

There does seem to be few variations on this topic 😅

I was in LR today and asked and they said leave the door open.

For me I don't care why, to bloody confusing, I am just happy knowing you do, although some people say you don't

While at LR I asked about jacking under the suspension arm or what ever you call it and they knew about it but did not have the details

Is there a video or pics of this as I am not sure where you place the Jack

As it turns out I don't have to worry about it now, at least, LR are going to fix my tyre for free.

I am finding the local LR guys ,Lennock in Canberra, very easy to deal with and very helpful .

Richard

[WhiteD3]

1. Leaving the door open is supposed to stop the car from changing height. I have done this but I still would put any body part under the car.

2. Why bother? There are jacking point on the car. All you need is the right jack.

3. Never done this to change a tyre, nor would I. I have done this trick once or twice to get the car into extended mode (and keep a bit of timber under the back seat for this and to act as a jacking support) to get over obstacles off road.

4. Ditto 2.

2 ton bottle jack? It's not the tonnage...its the reach. You have to select a jack that'll raise the car high enough. I have a 3 stage jack that fits under the rear seats that does the trick.





Hi,
I know this has been done to death a bit and that the supplied jack is crap according to many people but I am about to use the thing, picked up a nail causing a slow leak.
I nave a MY14 D4 - 5 seat

I have a few questions which I hope people can help with.


1. I have read many threads here and else where which state to raise to offload height and leave the door open.

I have read the manual and it does state to raise to offroad height but nothing about leaving the door open (ref p228 of handbook ). It does say to turn on the hazard lights, not sure if that helps or is just a motherhood.

2. I have read about people using bottle jacks under the strut arm. Where abouts on the strut do you put the jack - I am a mechanical dunce so please forgive. Does any one have pics of this?

3.I have read that some people trick the car by putting the jack under the strut, jack it up about 25mm, wait a second or two, release a little pressure to drop 10mm and magic happens, the wheel lifts off the ground. Has any one done this and if so do you have the doors open or closed?

4. Some people use trolly jacks. Do you still use the same jacking point as when using the sissor jack. There are no other positions documented in the handbook for any other type of lifting.

I do have a 2 tonne bottle jack I cart around in my van, this would not be enough I suppose

Thanks for any help,
Richard

[wbowner]

1. Leaving the door open is supposed to stop the car from changing height. I have done this but I still would put any body part under the car.

2. Why bother? There are jacking point on the car. All you need is the right jack.

3. Never done this to change a tyre, nor would I. I have done this trick once or twice to get the car into extended mode (and keep a bit of timber under the back seat for this and to act as a jacking support) to get over obstacles off road.

4. Ditto 2.

2 ton bottle jack? It's not the tonnage...its the reach. You have to select a jack that'll raise the car high enough. I have a 3 stage jack that fits under the rear seats that does the trick.

The right jack?
According to LR that is the scissor jack.😀
The reason for my other options I mentioned is that a lot of people keep stating the one provided is crap. I am just looking at other options.

A bottle jack would also be a bit unstable by itself I reckon.

Richard

[ADMIRAL]

The right jack?
According to LR that is the scissor jack.😀
The reason for my other options I mentioned is that a lot of people keep stating the one provided is crap. I am just looking at other options.

A bottle jack would also be a bit unstable by itself I reckon.

Richard

If you check the top of the LR scissor jack, it has a pin to locate the jack on the arms before jacking. Make yourself a simple tube cap with the same diameter pin on the top. Slide it onto the bottle jack shaft. Gives a far more secure lifting operation.

[WhiteD3]

The scissor jack is OK on flat, hard concrete but I'd never use it off road.

The bottle jack is stable but I had a small attachment made to lock it into the locater hole at the jacking point.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/52937-new-d3-bottle-jack.html




The right jack?
According to LR that is the scissor jack.😀
The reason for my other options I mentioned is that a lot of people keep stating the one provided is crap. I am just looking at other options.

A bottle jack would also be a bit unstable by itself I reckon.

Richard

[wbowner]

The scissor jack is OK on flat, hard concrete but I'd never use it off road.

The bottle jack is stable but I had a small attachment made to lock it into the locater hole at the jacking point.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/52937-new-d3-bottle-jack.html

The details do not show on the link

I have seen pics of the adapters others have made, potty you can't buy them some where as it is a another option.

I do have a 9t jack but would have to lay it down to fit under the seat I reckon.
I believe that laying these jacks on the side is not good for them and will cause oil to leak
How have you found it?

Richard

Found new gasweld reference of your jack. $109. Looks good but concerns about carrying it as mentioned above.
Any chances of pics of the adapter and where you had it made
Many thanks

http://www.gasweld.com.au/535050-toolex

[wbowner]

It seems that from the comments that carrying a suitable bottle jack along with the scissor jack is not a bad idea.

The key seems to be finding one that fits and also from what I have read this jack must satisfy the following criteria,please correct me if I am wrongs.

1. Minimum capacity of 2000kg
2. Closed height less than 230mm
2. Minimum extended height 400mm

The screw in the jack seems to complicate the situation. You may have a jack that reaches the required "up" height with the screw but if the screw is up you can't fit it under the jacking point.

I have had a look around and found one I think may satisfy the above, assuming my assumptions above are correct.

It is the Omega telescopic 2 tone jack.
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/00946908/jack-bottle-omega-telescopic-hyd-2t

Does any one have one of these and/or know if they would be a suitable option.

I would also assume if you use a bottle jack it would be a good idea to have an adapter which fits into the chassis hole as per the scissor jack.


Richard