What To Look For When Getting A First Landy

[SCseries 2a]

I am new to the forum and I was wondering what would be the best traits when looking for a first Landy. I was looking at a series 2a with unoriginal wheels and tires and a ridiculous roo bar but it did have an original 4cyl engine. The landy is an 88", it was on for $600, Do you think it is worth getting?

For more info here is the link:

1969 Land Rover (4X4) | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Maroochydore Area - Palmwoods | 1081031114 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/palmwoods/cars-vans-utes/1969-land-rover-4x4-/1081031114)

Thanks a lot and hope to hear from you.

SunshineCoastseries2a

[SCseries 2a]

I am new to the forum and I was wondering what would be the best traits when looking for a first Landy. I was looking at a series 2a with unoriginal wheels and tires and a ridiculous roo bar but it did have an original 4cyl engine. The landy is an 88", it was on for $600, Do you think it is worth getting?

For more info here is the link:

1969 Land Rover (4X4) | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Maroochydore Area - Palmwoods | 1081031114

Thanks a lot and hope to hear from you.

SunshineCoastseries2a

[crackers]

I've recently bought my first Land - Wombat, you'll find her in the Series 1 forum.

I was lucky in that I was put onto Wombat by an experienced Landy nut, but I did glean some useful things from him.

Climb in underneath and check out the chassis. That's essentially the only steel stuff on the vehicle and consequently is the bit that rusts. Check by tapping with something solid (like the handle of a screw driver) for rot. It can be fixed if needed but like everything, if it doesn't have to be... Similarly, the firewall is steel and while surface rust can be expected, you don't want rot (ie, ruddy great holes).
The body work is aluminium and so doesn't rust, but badly bent and torn can be hard to fix - aluminium doesn't panel beat as easily as steel. On the other hand, these beasts are only bolted together and you'll hear the term 'bloody great mechano set' used a fair bit, so pulling it apart and replacing panels is relatively simple (provided you can find the panels but they are around).
The motors and running gear are simple and all the parts are readily available so you can rebuild them.

Anything can be rebuilt or replaced but the more you have to rebuild and replace, the more it'll cost you. Soooooo, the more sound your base vehicle, the easier and less costly it'll be. It also depends on what gives you satisfaction and why you're going down this route. For example, I'm a puller aparterer and fixerer and not overly concerned about retaining every original part and achieving utter originality though I will attempt to get her as original as practical. Some people go for history. Some want to recreate a part of their youth they loved or missed - identify your driving forces and satisfy them.

And that's where I'm bailing out because I don't have to knowledge to go into more detail. One thing that influenced me in buying Wombat was that the initial price wasn't all that high, you aren't going to get burned too badly with anything under a grand.

[crackers]

1969 Land Rover (4X4) | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Maroochydore Area - Palmwoods | 1081031114

Well, she looks complete so that's a plus. She looks assembled so that makes it easier to work out where things were come putting it back together time (photo EVERYTHING). Stick the starter handle in and see if she still turns over.

The rear roof looks as though it's rusting. They aren't supposed to because the factory provided an aluminium unit. HOWEVER, there's been some talk on here recently about a Queensland company that made steel roofs. If it's one of them, I understand they are rather rare. Have a look around on here for the discussion. You might be looking at something special.

[Slunnie]

First thing I look for is rust in the firewall and chassis. Any rust in those areas is deal breaker for me. I think if you can tick this off, then its not a waste of time.

Then I look for paint condition (remember they are old though!) to see how much work it needs.

Dents in major body parts (ie, body parts that dont easily unbolt like rear tubs). Personally, I like to unbolt crappy parts and replace them rather than "restore" them.

The rest is straight forward from there although some aspects can take time.

By the way, decent shortys are getting hard to find now and sometimes they go for a lot of money. That said, I just saw an awesome shorty in Sydney go on ebay for $950.

Personally, my favourite is also the late Series IIa - lots of parts and they have a metal dash. Tray utes are a really easy resto option.

[SCseries 2a]

Just thinking do you think that the wheels are stock or aftermarket. If they are do you think it would be a good idea keeping them?

[jamesnedtaylor]

Just thinking do you think that the wheels are stock or aftermarket. If they are do you think it would be a good idea keeping them?

gday mate were abouts on the sunny coast are you :)

James

[Slunnie]

Just thinking do you think that the wheels are stock or aftermarket. If they are do you think it would be a good idea keeping them?

They are Discovery/Defender wheels. You can run tubeless tyres on them where the original rims need tubes. It's purelyersonal preference depending on what you want to do with the vehicle.

[Dinty]

And the steel turret (roof) is a 'Hedges' locally made in Qld, cheers Dennis

[JayBee75]

Hi,

having gone through this process myself and now underway with my resto, I would say don't rush into buying any Landy. Getting the right car up front will save you time and money in the long run.
It's easy to get caught up in the emotion and desire of wanting one, but potentially spending more up front again on the right car will benefit you greatly.

There are plenty for sale at the moment, the one you show looks like a good project however alot of the more experienced guys will be able to tell you the ins and outs based on what they see in the photos better than I.

From what me as a novice can see. The roof is not original, make sure its not steel as well. Carby does not look original. You need to make sure that the rust is not really bad, 'in the usual places" can indicate alot of replacement to take place, firewall, footwells and chassis.

Price seems fair but all come down to how much rust is in her. i'll let the others chime in.

Good luck.

[gromit]

If looking at your first Landy the first considerations should be your own skills and what you are trying to achieve.

Are you able to complete most of the work yourself or will you have to get someone else to do the work for you ? This will start to dictate how much you need to spend and what condition you need to be looking for.
You can learn 'on-the-job' skills but what is your timescale for getting the vehicle usable ?

If you're able to weld & work with metal then bulkhead & chassis repairs are reasonably straightforward. Panel beating & spray painting are straightforward but you need the tools and some experience. How comprehensive is your toolkit ?

Also consider that paying $5K for one that is running & registered may be much cheaper than buying one for $600, potentially spending more than $5K repairing it and not getting it on the road for years.
Do you want enjoyment from driving it or repairing it ?

I think a lot of people on the forum are repairing old Land Rovers because funds are tight / they enjoy the challenge / it gives them a reason to be in the shed / a reason to visit swap meets / keep away from the wife etc. etc.

Regularly part finished projects come up for sale. Someone has stripped a vehicle down to the last nut & bolt, started working on it then lost enthusiasm, then needs the space so it's sold off in pieces. Paying a bit more for something that can be quickly registered and then worked on as well as getting used may be a better option.

I've probably posed more questions than answers but maybe work out what you are trying to achieve then you'll know what to look for.

Best of luck,

Colin

[The ho har's]

Welcome to the forum..

Roof is not original. What is that bar bolted to? If the wing it is stuffed, if the firewall most probably to as water would ingress. Without more interior pics to see the "rust in the usual places" Footwells are easy to repair but the firewall is not if too rusty. It has 2 tanks, well you can see that but where is the second filler? maybe self levelling... For that amount of money I would be very wary of buying it. There are plenty in very degrees of condition worth the same amount. HTH

Mrs hh:angel:

[The ho har's]

I have posted in your post in the IIa forum...

Please look there for my response:)


Mrs hh:angel:

[SCseries 2a]

I went and looked at the landy and the frame was shot and the bulkhead had lost its structural integrity

[crackers]

There's another thread relating to this vehicle in the main Series forum. Maybe posts could go there :wasntme:

[crackers]

I have posted in your post in the IIa forum...

Please look there for my response:)


Mrs hh:angel:

And I just pointed from there to here :D
Ain't forums fun. You ought to see the mayhem I'm causing down in the Disco forum by having a simple question morph across a series of vehicles. :angel:

[crackers]

I went and looked at the landy and the frame was shot and the bulkhead had lost its structural integrity

Bugga. Still, you did the right thing. You asked, you looked and you walked away. There'll be others and the perfect Landy for you will make herself known when she's ready (regardless of whether you are, they're like that).

[p38arover]

Threads merged.

Don't ask the same question in multiple areas.

[SCseries 2a]

I see no need to tell anyone where I am on the sunshine coast as that is private info

[crackers]

I see no need to tell anyone where I am on the sunshine coast as that is private info

You can change that to what you want in your UserCP. Look at mine, it's simply Southern Adelaide, not Happy Valley which is where I actually live. It pays to give some indication of where you live so that people know whether their reply is relevant or not (no point me aiming you at my local Landy mechanic for instance) but you can keep it general enough to be useful while maintaining anonymity.

[The ho har's]

So SC are you buying that truck? I wouldn't too many issues with it.

Mrs hh:angel:

[The ho har's]

OK since threads have merged... are you still looking for truck? does it have to be swb or can a lwb suit?

Mrs hhh:angel:

[JayBee75]

I see no need to tell anyone where I am on the sunshine coast as that is private info

Don't be too concerned here, the people on this forum/club are all enthusiasts and to be honest the more information I have shared the more offers of support and assistance I have had, from sourcing the car to parts etc
People have really gone out of their way.

Trust is your friend here.

Cheers
JB

[crackers]

Don't be too concerned here, the people on this forum/club are all enthusiasts and to be honest the more information I have shared the more offers of support and assistance I have had, from sourcing the car to parts etc
People have really gone out of their way.

Trust is your friend here.

Cheers
JB

Now look at his location as shown :angel:

[The ho har's]

Right now the confusion is over.. we are all in the same thread...

you have given that Landy up? to hard to repair? Keep looking you will find one. you are keen on a SWB or will a LWB suit your needs?

Mrs hh:angel:

[JayBee75]

Now look at his location as shown :angel:

Hey! Everyone knows where i am! As a few members have been I am in Ashwood I have nothing to hide:D

[jamesnedtaylor]

I see no need to tell anyone where I am on the sunshine coast as that is private info

I was just asking as i know we're there is one sat quite close to that ad and I've had a look over it but yeah I was just trying to help

James


1969 109" 2a named loti

[Slunnie]

So SC are you buying that truck? I wouldn't too many issues with it.

Mrs hh:angel:
I agree. Personally I would have kept looking.

[SCseries 2a]

In page two of the thread I did say that the frame was shot and the bulk hed was useless due to rust. Also from other questions the Landy was in maroochydore.

[SCseries 2a]

Slunne

Do to problems with the oringinal truck I am going to look for another local to me. Thanks for the suggestion

[SCseries 2a]

The truck you were thinking about how much was it?

[Slunnie]

These are what I would look at.

This one went for a loooot of money! But the vehicle was good too.
Land Rover SWB Series 3 Running AND Rust Free | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-SWB-series-3-running-and-rust-free-/151698871581'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=m%252FXRJ5DD0sMTAzFs4%252BOSD%252BXyi8M%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)

This one I think was excellent also. 3x50c rust holes in the firewall floor (no drama) and surface rust on the chassis (no drama). I think this one went cheap. Sadly I was OS when it sold as it would have been an awesome starting point. Actually both would.

Land Rover Series 3 SWB 88 Smithfield NSW in NSW | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Series-3-SWB-88-Smithfield-NSW-/301674878166'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=m%252FXRJ5DD0sMTAzFs4%252BOSD%252BXyi8M%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)


When looking to buy, I would also tend to look inland and not be afraid to travel. I think these are more likely to be better rot free samples, especially if shedded and cheaper because of the location. My IIa ute was an example of that, was $1k and the body is in great comparative condition for its age.

[crackers]

This one went for a loooot of money! But the vehicle was good too.
Land Rover SWB Series 3 Running AND Rust Free | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-SWB-series-3-running-and-rust-free-/151698871581'ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=m%252FXRJ5DD0sMTAzFs4%252BOSD%252BXyi8M%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc)


Cripes, this bloke did well for himself didn't he. Makes it easier to understand some of the prices being asked here.