DonDownUnder's D3 dropping into Limp Mode

[p38arover]

Incisor received this via PM tonight and has asked it be posted up.

Any help appreciated.


Hi, I am travelling with a 3300kg Caravan towing with a Disco3 v6 TD01/2008. Have had a lot of trouble with falling into limp mode in Outback QLD whilst sharing the skinny roads with Road trains and many times suddenly I stop, very unsafe and I can't ask a question on the forum. Very Sad when you need help, We are from outer west Sydney, long way to go, hope we make it. Fault codes via my Blackbox Nano :
'Any Clues please , Could a batch of bad fuel cause this?? Thanks

FAULT 1 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0010
Medium speed CAN communication bus
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 2 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0132
Lost communication with ride level ctrl module / Lost communication with suspension ctrl module A
(PENDING)

FAULT 3 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0184
Lost communication with audio unit
(PERMANENT)

FAULT 4 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0087
Fuel rail/system pressure - too low
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 5 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0405
Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A - circuit low
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 6 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P000E
Fuel volume regulator control exceeded learning limit
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 7 OF 13
ECU: Automatic Gearbox
CODE:U2023
Control module network signal calibration data
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 8 OF 13
ECU: Parking Brake
CODE:U0100
Lost communication with engine control module/powertrain control module 'A'
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 9 OF 13
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(PENDING)

FAULT 10 OF 13
ECU: ABS system
CODE:U0401
Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 11 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0401
Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 12 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0402
Invalid data received from transmission control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 13 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module

[LandyAndy]

Calling Mr Sniegy.
Expertise requiered here.
Andrew

[TerryO]

Incisor received this email earlier today, that I have just cut and pasted here, Ron then put it up in the Breakdown section. Given the D3/4/RRS section has the most knowledgeable people on late model Disco issues I thought it might also be good have Don's email listed here as well.

If anyone has any ideas on what might be wrong with Don's D3 and how he might fix it that would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by DonDownunder
Hi, I am travelling with a 3300kg Caravan towing with a Disco3 v6 TD01/2008. Have had a lot of trouble with falling into limp mode in Outback QLD whilst sharing the skinny roads with Road trains and many times suddenly I stop, very unsafe and I can't ask a question on the forum. Very Sad when you need help, We are from outer west Sydney, long way to go, hope we make it. Fault codes via my Blackbox Nano :
'Any Clues please , Could a batch of bad fuel cause this?? Thanks

FAULT 1 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0010
Medium speed CAN communication bus
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 2 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0132
Lost communication with ride level ctrl module / Lost communication with suspension ctrl module A
(PENDING)

FAULT 3 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0184
Lost communication with audio unit
(PERMANENT)

FAULT 4 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0087
Fuel rail/system pressure - too low
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 5 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0405
Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A - circuit low
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 6 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P000E
Fuel volume regulator control exceeded learning limit
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 7 OF 13
ECU: Automatic Gearbox
CODE:U2023
Control module network signal calibration data
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 8 OF 13
ECU: Parking Brake
CODE:U0100
Lost communication with engine control module/powertrain control module 'A'
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 9 OF 13
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(PENDING)

FAULT 10 OF 13
ECU: ABS system
CODE:U0401
Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 11 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0401
Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 12 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0402
Invalid data received from transmission control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 13 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module

[LandyAndy]

I have sent Sniegy a PM alerting him to the thread.Ron does Dondownunder know his PM is here???
Andrew

[Eevo]

sounds like a bad ground to me.

[Graeme]

What faults return soon after clearing all faults?

[Ean Austral]

My guess is the intermittent faults are the one's returning. Am wondering if an earth fault can cause some of these, but its not something I have dealt with before.


Cheers Ean

[Graeme]

Hopefully only a connection somewhere around the battery shaken loose by the frequent ventures off the bitumen.

[90 Rangie]

Has he done the basic checks ?
I.E. brake lights are O.K.
Brake light switch.
Hard reset.
When is it happening under hard axcelleration, any time ?
If he is carrying spare fuel filter just change it anyway just in case.

[Ean Austral]

Think if its happening pulling on and off the bitumen then it would seem to point to a loose connection of some sort , battery negative or earth.


Cheers Ean

[DonDownunder]

Hello.
Firstly I must apologize for the truncated method this problem was posted.
A bit of history. We had the same problem some 10,000km ago on our trip and the problem went away. When the disco3 goes into limp mode it just requires a lot of action to pull safely off the road, put in park, hand brake & restart/reboot and proceed again until the same happens again. If I read the fault codes after the event I get the 13 listed faults. If I clear faults and check again I get the audio system permanent as is no longer fitted. And a repeat happens if I get limp mode again. It happened about 12 times and is very daunting.
I started getting the limp mode again after filling with fuel from an outlet at Croydon in outback QLD, Tank took about 60ltrs. This is the only significant event I can relate to where something has changed or is different. I finally overcome the limp mode by driving in sports mode in 3rd and 4th gear only keeping engine revs between 2300 and 3000. (cruise control never used).
Questions, low fuel rail pressure? Faulty fuel pumps (HP & Tank),fuel filters, waxy off-grade fuel, contaminated fuel, or just very cold fuel. Or am I missing things all together.
I have an aftermarket long-range tank fitted and hope to dilute the normal tank when we hit the road on Tuesday. I appreciate any help as I have a long way home.cheers Don

[p38arover]

I have sent Sniegy a PM alerting him to the thread.Ron does Dondownunder know his PM is here???
Andrew

It looks like it.

[DonDownunder]

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
Hi, I am traveling with a 3300kg Caravan towing with a Disco3 v6 TD01/2008. Have had a lot of trouble with falling into limp mode in Outback QLD whilst sharing the skinny roads with Road trains and many times suddenly I stop, very unsafe and I can't ask a question on the forum. Very Sad when you need help, We are from outer west Sydney, long way to go, hope we make it. Fault codes via my Blackbox Nano :
'Any Clues please , Could a batch of bad fuel cause this?? Thanks

FAULT 1 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0010
Medium speed CAN communication bus
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 2 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0132
Lost communication with ride level ctrl module / Lost communication with suspension ctrl module A
(PENDING)

FAULT 3 OF 13
ECU: Instrument Pack
CODE:U0184
Lost communication with audio unit
(PERMANENT)

FAULT 4 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0087
Fuel rail/system pressure - too low
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 5 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P0405
Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A - circuit low
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 6 OF 13
ECU: Engine Management
CODE:P000E
Fuel volume regulator control exceeded learning limit
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 7 OF 13
ECU: Automatic Gearbox
CODE:U2023
Control module network signal calibration data
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 8 OF 13
ECU: Parking Brake
CODE:U0100
Lost communication with engine control module/powertrain control module 'A'
(INTERMITTENT)

FAULT 9 OF 13
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(PENDING)

FAULT 10 OF 13
ECU: ABS system
CODE:U0401
Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 11 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0401
Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 12 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0402
Invalid data received from transmission control module
(HISTORIC)

FAULT 13 OF 13
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control moduleu

[Graeme]

I finally overcome the limp mode by driving in sports mode in 3rd and 4th gear only keeping engine revs between 2300 and 3000. (cruise control never used).I would change the fuel filter because this sounds like a restricted filter whereby enough fuel can be delivered if demand is sufficiently constant. However you could first try draining the filter.

[SBD4]

Not sure if this will help but the following is from the workshop manual:

P0087-00 Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low - no sub type information

Fuel rail pressure sensor disconnected
Fuel rail pressure sensor to Engine Control Module sensing circuit short circuit to ground
Fuel rail pressure sensor supply circuit high resistance
Fuel rail pressure sensor failure
Fuel line leak
Restricted fuel line
Fuel pump module circuit high resistance
Fuel pump module circuit short circuit to ground
Fuel pump module failure
Volume control valve fault
Pressure control valve fault


Refer to the electrical guides and check the fuel rail pressure sensor circuits. For fuel rail pressure sensor tests, refer to the relevant workshop manual section. Check the low pressure fuel lines for damage or restrictions. Check the fuel pressure. Check the low pressure fuel pump module circuits and operation. Check for fuel rail and high pressure fuel line leaks. Check for volume control valve and pressure control valve DTCs and rectify as necessary

P0405-21 Exhaust Gas RecirculationSensor A Circuit Low - signal amplitude < minimum

Right-hand Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) sensor circuit low - signal amplitude less than minimum
EGR valve position sensor circuit short circuit to ground
EGR valve position sensor fault


Check the right-hand Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) sensor and circuits. Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams. Using a data logger function, check the EGR valve angle. With the ignition on, engine off, command the valve actuator to 0% pulse width modulated (PWM), and then to 100% pulse width modulated (PWM) and recheck the EGR valve angle. The value should range from 0 - 20% to 80 - 95%. If this is not the case, install a new sensor. Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation


P000E-21 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Exceeded Learning Limit - signal amplitude < minimum

Fuel volume control valve amplitude is less than the minimum specified

Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the fuel volume control valve and circuits. Check the resistance of the valve and install a new high pressure fuel pump if the resistance is not between 1.5 and 15 ohms (the fuel volume control valve cannot be serviced separately). Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation. Refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual if a high pressure fuel pump is suspect

P000E-22 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Exceeded Learning Limit - signal amplitude > maximum

Fuel volume control valve amplitude is greater than the maximum specified

Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the fuel volume control valve and circuits. Check the resistance of the valve and install a new high pressure fuel pump if the resistance is not between 1.5 and 15 ohms (the fuel volume control valve cannot be serviced separately). Clear the DTCs and test for normal operation. Refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual if a high pressure fuel pump is suspect

Edit the above would indicate low fuel flow. As Graeme has said likely issue is blocked fuel filter.

[sniegy]

After reading the before & after, I am thinking along the lines of:-
Bad fuel has killed an injector/s,
Therefore killing high pressure fuel pump.

Does the vehicle repair itself for a short while (how many K's) then do the same?
Has any cleaning been done to the engine bay, before trip or while on trip?


CHeers

[DonDownunder]

Hi I am having internet problems too,
Last drove D3 on Saturday. after reboot stop/start I would travel about 2 or 3k and bingo whilst in Auto with normal drive habits. (both cruising and accelerating < 2000 rpm . I then tried keeping engine revs above 2200 / 2300 and up to 3000 in 3rd and 4th gear in sports mode, I was able to travel at 80/85kmh for about 160k in this method without limp mode happening. I was not game to revert to driving in auto. Tomorrow Tues we head off and I have different fuel in reserve tank and was going to transfer and try in auto after a while & see if any difference. I have taken advice from Graeme's suggestions of a blocked fuel filter but I do not have a spare (fitted 15k ago) I opened the drain on the bottom of the filter and there was no actual flow , removed the valve plug completely and only Dieso was a damp covering. no water. At the first opportunity which should be Wednesday I hope to get my hands on a Fuel Filter. I will be in Charters Towers. No cleaning done under the bonnet. Engine oil/Filter change in Darwin no problems for over 2500k until fuel tank filled at Croydon immediately before setting off . Traveled about 50k before 1st limp mode . When running whilst towing ~~~ the engine runs smooth as silk, no vibration from any lazy cylinder or isolated injector fault. No loss of power when taking off with revs up . No irregular sound just the limp mode chimes when it happens. As I don't have a workshop manual can someone please give me the procedure for removal replacement of the fuel filter. I don't want to just assume its a screw on job and stuff it up, Also what is the procedure for priming and displacing any air?
Thanking everyone , cheers Don

After reading the before & after, I am thinking along the lines of:-
Bad fuel has killed an injector/s,
Therefore killing high pressure fuel pump.

Does the vehicle repair itself for a short while (how many K's) then do the same?
Has any cleaning been done to the engine bay, before trip or while on trip?


CHeers

[Redback]

After you get things sorted, buy one of these, could save you having this issue again.

Mr Funnel

http://www.proquip.com.au/assets/Images/Funnels/Mr%20Funnel%20Page/Graphic%20of%20flow.jpg

Mr Funnel Fuel Filter Funnels (http://www.proquip.com.au/ProductPages/Funnels/MrFunnel.html)

Baz.

[DonDownunder]

Transferred about 50ltrs from long range fuel tank, Drove 400+ Km today towing the caravan in Auto @ 85 ~ 90kmh and all is well, back to normal, Not jumping the gun but I think I got a batch of bad fuel. I will still change the fuel filter when I can source one. Are the Repco ones any good? and I will get one of those funnels Baz has mentioned.
cheers Don

[d2dave]

I would suggest at this point in time that any brand of fuel filter is going to be better than what is currently on the vehicle.

Under normal circumstances I would not use a Repco one, but under your current circumstances I would use anything I could lay my hands on.

[Will Wallace]

Dad had a very similar problem with nearly the same faults.

After months of searching, and a new turbo(not needed) it turned out to be a did MAF sensor.

Worth a shot.

Will

[benji]

When you filled in Croydon was the fuel brown, or did it smell different?

It may have been algae in the fuel.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[DonDownunder]

I didn't manage to observe the fuel color when I filled Croydon but I found out my Brother got fuel at the same outlet and his Nissan Navara was running a bit rough during the same time. The fuel filter will be replaced shortly and the old filter opened up
to examine for trace elements when I get home. I managed to get a new H Q filter and a workshop manual via express post
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[DonDownunder]

Hello I refer to former post regarding limp mode. we changed the fuel filter at Emerald. no sign of contaminants in the fuel all went well on the way home to Penrith from that point. We don't know if that was signs of things to come but after being home for two weeks we then headed towards Tweed heads for a military reunion. Got as far as Tamworth for a stopover and on the second day without the caravan hitched we suffered a another breakdown with error code on on one of the camshafts, Thinking it was related to the fuel issue the scenario idea was it was the fuel injection pump or fuel pump belt. Lift pump in tank OK at Schrader valve vent. We were towed complete with Caravan and Disco3 by truck (NRMA) to tweed heads so would not miss the reunion and have vehicle repaired whilst up here. Towed again to workshop and it has been discovered that the
front camshaft timing belt has slipped several teeth and grossly miss-aligned. There is evidence of piston Contact with valves and subsequent fatal damage, The timing belt has only been installed for some 23,000km and will pursue compensation as the motor repairs will be a hefty fee. The incident happened on a flat road and I was accelerating from 60k to 80k at a speed limit change without the caravan and minimum load in vehicle. The repair shop up here at Nerang are looking at different options for a rebuild or another motor, so if anyone has one kicking around or a crated motor please advise. I am not a Happy Chappy:(:(

[d2dave]

That is not good news.:( I hope the mob that did the belt cough up with out a fight.

Good luck with this. I hope it all works out.

[TerryO]

I had a similar situation happen with my D3 just after buying it second hand a number of years ago when a independant workshop stuffed up the cam timing, after three failed attempts at getting it right and damage to various cylinder heads and rocker gear they gave up and provided and fitted a new crate long engine gratis.

If it has had valves v Pistons, I would not want it repaired, I would want it replaced even with a low k second hand engine. Remember the force of the impacts not only damages the top end but puts huge strain on the bottom end which early TDV6's can and often have major meltdown issues with anyway.

Good luck with it.

[DonDownunder]

Hi, I have received an estimate to replace motor of approx 20K$$ close to 11k$$ for Crate Long Engine. I will not repair existing, the reason the timing belt out of sync is the direct result of the drive sprocket on the crank coming loose:eek:


I had a similar situation happen with my D3 just after buying it second hand a number of years ago when a independant workshop stuffed up the cam timing, after three failed attempts at getting it right and damage to various cylinder heads and rocker gear they gave up and provided and fitted a new crate long engine gratis.

If it has had valves v Pistons, I would not want it repaired, I would want it replaced even with a low k second hand engine. Remember the force of the impacts not only damages the top end but puts huge strain on the bottom end which early TDV6's can and often have major meltdown issues with anyway.

Good luck with it.

[Graeme]

the reason the timing belt out of sync is the direct result of the drive sprocket on the crank coming loose:eek:I wondered if that might be the cause given the earlier then latest symptoms. Without a key it relies on appropriate torque for the bolt so accidents can occur.

[Eevo]

the reason the timing belt out of sync is the direct result of the drive sprocket on the crank coming loose:eek:

and that causes all the initial faults/codes?

[TerryO]

Hi, I have received an estimate to replace motor of approx 20K$$ close to 11k$$ for Crate Long Engine. I will not repair existing, the reason the timing belt out of sync is the direct result of the drive sprocket on the crank coming loose:eek:

Sorry but I believe your being charged top dollar, a workshop can buy a crate engine for less than 9k, the one that supplied mine got it for 7.8k. That was back when LR dealers were quoting 15k on its own for a new engine.
A number of people on here have had new 2.7's supplied and fitted for less than 15k, some as low 13k from memory.

Another option is you can also look into buying a low kilometer Fors Territory 2.7 engine for often only several thousand dollars and have that fitted.

From personal experience learned the hard and expensive way I would also have all new hoses and pulleys / tensioner fitted as well prior to the new engine being fitted. That is about $500 in parts from memory and will save thousands in labour when the original parts start to fail one by one in a few months time.

Personally I would ask them how many hours labour they are quoting to fit the new engine, then go from there.

[Fatso]

Triumph rover spares in SA have a crate long TDv6 2.7 engine for $11950 or $9900 short . Was the oil pump changed for the newer type when the belts were done .

[DonDownunder]

Triumph rover spares in SA have a crate long TDv6 2.7 engine for $11950 or $9900 short . Was the oil pump changed for the newer type when the belts were done .
I am checking that out regarding the oil pump, was it a re-call item to replace pump or standard procedure?? as I have a gut feeling that there was hydraulic resistance placed backwards on the L/h camshaft and pressure put on Crankshaft Pulley locknuts which came loose and belt slipped 6 teeth?

[DonDownunder]

I have managed to get my hands on a new EU4 TD 2.7 V6 for just under $10K after following your suggestion . Thanks

The root mode of failure was the collapse of the co-drive chain between the two cams on the passenger side head causing the exhaust cam to lock solid and the momentum of engine and vehicle doing 80k ultimately moved the drive sprocket and subsequent instant damage to valves and pistons and probably the bottom end.

Triumph rover spares in SA have a crate long TDv6 2.7 engine for $11950 or $9900 short . Was the oil pump changed for the newer type when the belts were done .

[Tins]

Another option is you can also look into buying a low kilometer Fors Territory 2.7 engine for often only several thousand dollars and have that fitted.

.

I know they are essentially the same basic engine, but do they actually fit? If so, then the Peugeot one should as well. I would imagine that there would be some pretty serious difference between them with things like cams.

Serious question. I don't know and I would like to. There's a mob in the UK who fit the V6 into D1s. I thought about the Territory motor for that conversion.

If so, this would seem to be a bargain: Ford Territory 2012 2 7L Turbo Diesel Engine LOW KM in VIC | eBay (http://tinyurl.com/ojzmuwo)

[Grentarc]

If so, this would seem to be a bargain: Ford Territory 2012 2 7L Turbo Diesel Engine LOW KM in VIC | eBay (http://tinyurl.com/ojzmuwo)
Plenty of territory 2.7's out there at these sorts of prices

[DonDownunder]

Plenty of territory 2.7's out there at these sorts of prices
Still about $9k to have fitted, it's a risk and shame if you get a used engine that's a potential time bomb waiting to go off. I am on a pension so that's why I opted out for a Warranted item...

[DonDownunder]

Sorry to say this but I got rid of my Disco3 and no more.... It was affecting my mental health considerably, was doing my head in. We spent a fortune on it but could not get rid of limp mode. EXTREMELY dangerous with caravan in tow. Ruined our years travels for winter. struggled home and sat by the fire,
I want to say thanks far and wide and to all who helped with advice for the support. Keep an eye out for my leftovers. cheers Don :(

[DiscoJono]

G'day Don. It appears I have acquired your old Disco 3.
I'm actually happy I stumbled across this thread as it gives me insight into what actually happened to the previous engine. Car is a great improvement from my E53 X5 for the farm. I didn't want a Land Cruiser and I'm actually very impressed with the quality of ride out in the paddock.
I have, unfortunately, come across this problem you've described and this forum thread has now got me scratching my thread. I can see you had replaced the high pressure fuel pump and the intercooler hose. I thought it might be the brake light switch so I swapped it and changed a few bad bulbs.
The fact that it throws a bunch of module communication faults has now got me thinking that there is a bad earth but I imagine the dealer would've disconnected and replaced the earth leads to chassis and body when they installed the new engine. This could still be a likely cause however the main code thrown is P2290 which refers to low fuel pressure. I've also noticed the car only throws it's "limp mode tantrum", when you really put the foot to the floor. I can drive to Sydney and back, over taking cars quite comfortably and sitting on 100 without limp mode if I ensure my foot doesn't touch the floor. As soon as you push the pedal all the way down, it'll de-rate and throw a tantrum. I assume you've changed the fuel filter several times since the problem first occurred?

I'm pointing towards a bad earth or a faulty throttle pedal. Perhaps even a faulty MAF. I am however, very interested in knowing what else you've already replaced so I can cross them off the list. (If you still follow this forum of course).

I very much doubt this could be a gearbox issue but I'm not ruling it out completely. Just keen to solve this problem so my wife doesn't make me sell it.

Cheers,
Jono

[LandyAndy]

Welcome aboard Jono.
I would suggest you send DonDownunder a PM.
Fortunately he is a current member still,last online Jan1.
Right click on Don Downunders details,all shall be revealed.
Goodluck in sorting the D3 out.
Andrew

[DiscoJono]

Thanks mate. I think I'll do just that.

[DiscoJono]

Unfortunately his account is not accepting private messages.
I'll try and go over the earths (if I can find them) with a spanner and will replace the fuel filter as the car is due for it's 215,000km service.
The P2290 code has me thinking it could be the lift pump inside the main tank. Due to the fact it only de-rates when the foot is to the floor, it does sound like it's not getting enough fuel. The boost is certainly there.
I've rebuilt a number of diesel engines however non were common rail. This stuff makes my brain hurt.

Not quite sure how I could test the electronic accelerator pedal accurately. It may be the culprit however I'll seek other potential places first.

[de7158]

Mine had similar symptoms and was due to the intank Low Pressure Fuel Pump failure.
A good read is the excellent Robbie's guide to the LPFP.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Robbie's Guide To The Low Pressure Fuel System (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic130062.html?highlight=Low+pressure+fuel+pump)

Cheers
Peter

[DiscoJono]

I reckon you could be on the money. I can see a receipt for a brand new High Pressure Fuel Pump not that long ago but can't see a Low Pressure Fuel Pump receipt. Worth a shot for a small investment.

[de7158]

Using a clamp on ammeter as per Robbie's guide, you should be able to check current draw of the LPFP.
Low current draw will be a LPFP failure, whilst ok current draw may indicate a blockage with either the main fuel filter or the sock filter on the end of the LPFP.

Whilst in the Kimberley, i had apparently picked up a load of contaminated fuel and went into limp mode. Had to drop the main tank in a paddock at Mt Elizabeth Station and clean the black gunk of the sock filter on the LPFP. Lucky only had about 40lts in the tank. 5.5 hrs later we were on our way!

Cheers
Peter

[LandyAndy]

Jono.
You could try sending an email to him thru AULRO.Look for the link in his avatar.
Andrew

[DiscoJono]

Will give that a shot. Online pricing for a new pump seems to be around the $400 mark so would rather properly diagnose first.
It's plausible that the sock may be plugged up too. It's amazing how easily a filter will turn black and gunky. Have a V8 Cruiser ute and every 10,000klm, the filter is as black as soot and almost looks as if there is algae growing.
I may have to drop the tank anyway as my wife hates the spare tyre carrier on the back. Sadly the long range tank may be going so the spare tyre can be relocated back to it's factory storage. I keep putting it off so I can keep it in.

[Russrobe]

Ah damn, I'd nearly rather keep the tank and throw the spare on the roof.
There's only really 2 things people don't like about Disco's. 1 being the tank is about 30L shy for touring and 2nd is the lowering at 55km/h which llams fixes... Be a shame to lose the fuel capacity.

[DiscoJono]

On the roof! Now there's an idea! Maybe the mrs will let me keep my long range tank after all.

[DiscoJono]

As for the limp mode, the earth from the battery to the inside fender looks a bit loose when I jiggle it. Might give it a tickle with the old spanner and see if that improves anything. I cleared all these silly module communication fault codes which seem to point towards a bad earth.

I experienced this sort of silliness with my X5 Sport. Running around in circles scratching my head, replacing part after part trying to clear a misfire. I've learnt to not stress over it. I'm sure it's something simple. Just need to diagnose properly.

I had a quick poke around on the forum and found this:

"Left Tamworth after replacing Bulbs and Brake switch. Thought I had it beaten. 20K short of Toowoomba Ding Ding Limp mode.
Off to the Landrover dealer workshop.
Now fixed hopefully. Fuel Rail pressure barely making 160MPA and only under tow load.
So New lift Pump, Filter , Injection Pump & Belt, Several sensors, and replaced some corroded elect plug terminals to sensors and engine ECU and FPCUnit A lot of hard work. Took 3 weeks to trouble shoot and fix.
Just about a new vehicle now so will have to last till we are too old to caravan around"

I guess I can cross off the lift pump and injection pump. I think I need to check all the earth's and find some way to check the electronic accelerator pedal. It may be junk..

Worth adding, the Alternator packed up last week. I replaced it with a brand new one. I hoped that was causing the limp mode drama. Apparently not.

[Grentarc]

"Left Tamworth after replacing Bulbs and Brake switch. Thought I had it beaten. 20K short of Toowoomba Ding Ding Limp mode.
Off to the Landrover dealer workshop.
Now fixed hopefully. Fuel Rail pressure barely making 160MPA and only under tow load.
So New lift Pump, Filter , Injection Pump & Belt, Several sensors, and replaced some corroded elect plug terminals to sensors and engine ECU and FPCUnit A lot of hard work. Took 3 weeks to trouble shoot and fix.
Just about a new vehicle now so will have to last till we are too old to caravan around"

.
To me, that reads that the LPFP is a good place to start investigating from

[Graeme]

Does it throw the fault on WOT in 1st gear for a couple of seconds? This might identify if it's associated with WOT only or with high fuel demand. WOT in 1st gear wont require the fuel that's needed in a higher gear.

Worth getting the ecm s/w updated to the latest level if it's not already.

[DiscoJono]

To me, that reads that the LPFP is a good place to start investigating from

But Don said he replaced both the LPFP and the HPFP as well as the belt. The problem still persisted.

[DiscoJono]

Does it throw the fault on WOT in 1st gear for a couple of seconds? This might identify if it's associated with WOT only or with high fuel demand. WOT in 1st gear wont require the fuel that's needed in a higher gear.

Worth getting the ecm s/w updated to the latest level if it's not already.

Sorry mate, what is "WOT" short for? The limp mode drama is most evident when overtaking. Typically when you're behind someone, sitting on 80 and you plant the foot to get around them. It's almost as if you're in top gear, then plant the foot but the gearbox doesn't shift down. Instead you get a pause, then a "ding" sound and you have to pull over.
Interestingly, so long as I limit the amount of throttle, it's fine and has a gut load of power to get around. I can quite comfortably sit on a 100 up a steep incline (such as Cherry Tree Hill between Rylstone and Lithgow) So long as I don't plant my foot to the floor, it won't go into limp mode.
I see quite a few accelerator pedals on the market... Worth a shot maybe? Will check earths first though.

[Graeme]

WOT - wide open throttle.

You might want to remove the fuel filter housing to check for blockages, as well as blockages in the fuel lines themselves.

[101RRS]

I have the same issue when towing - in my vehicle the ECU is not getting the right MAP that it is expecting - I believe it is relatively common as a number of people have reported similar particularly if cruise control is engaged when towing - WOT in high load situations - for me only when towing over 1 tonne and speeds above 100kph - usually going up hill.

If I potter along at 100-110kph when towing and don't use WOT then I don't have an issue. Also never have an issue when not towing. However if I use WOT when towing I will get the fault alert straight away so I usually try to use high throttle if needed but not WOT - if the fault comes up a switch off and on clears it immediately and if the road is straight and safe I do it when still driving - into neutral, switch the engine off for 2 seconds and back on, then back into drive - limp mode/fault cleared.

So I would be looking at MAP first before spending money on pumps and filters. My own thought it is a fault in the way the software has been written and the ECU cannot accept the MAP it is getting when the throttle is wide open in high load conditions - that is my thought anyway.

Garry

[letherm]

Just a thought but have you tried changing down gear manually to see what happens. I'm thinking that this will raise the revs without you putting the pedal to the metal so to speak. Might help to see if it is high revs versus throttle position.

Martin

[Graeme]

However if I use WOT when towing I will get the fault alert straight away so I usually try to use high throttle if needed but not WOTThis needs to be fixed! Does it happen with WOT at slow speeds when insufficient fuel pressure cannot be the cause?

[DiscoJono]

I have the same issue when towing - in my vehicle the ECU is not getting the right MAP that it is expecting - I believe it is relatively common as a number of people have reported similar particularly if cruise control is engaged when towing - WOT in high load situations - for me only when towing over 1 tonne and speeds above 100kph - usually going up hill.

If I potter along at 100-110kph when towing and don't use WOT then I don't have an issue. Also never have an issue when not towing. However if I use WOT when towing I will get the fault alert straight away so I usually try to use high throttle if needed but not WOT - if the fault comes up a switch off and on clears it immediately and if the road is straight and safe I do it when still driving - into neutral, switch the engine off for 2 seconds and back on, then back into drive - limp mode/fault cleared.

So I would be looking at MAP first before spending money on pumps and filters. My own thought it is a fault in the way the software has been written and the ECU cannot accept the MAP it is getting when the throttle is wide open in high load conditions - that is my thought anyway.

Garry

Definitely worth investigating. I've found I can trigger limp mode if I plant the foot from a complete stop. So the fault is evident in the low gears as well. I'll blow the fuel lines out when I service the car this week but it really does sound like it's a communications issue, as you say. That's what has me thinking about the accelerator pedal. I've seen electronic ones go bad before and give incorrect resistance / reading to the ECU.

[DiscoJono]

Just a thought but have you tried changing down gear manually to see what happens. I'm thinking that this will raise the revs without you putting the pedal to the metal so to speak. Might help to see if it is high revs versus throttle position.

Martin

Yep, I use engine braking all the time and no issues with limp mode. The thing is, the car doesn't actually have to be at high revs to trigger limp mode, the throttle just needs to be open.

[Grentarc]

But Don said he replaced both the LPFP and the HPFP as well as the belt. The problem still persisted.
Ahh, I thought that you had found someone else with the problem and it had been fixed by the progressive replacement of all those parts.

Do you have an IID Tool BT? I know with mine I can read and log live values like accelerator pedal values, MAP etc. If you set it to log your drive, go and replicate the error, and see if any of your sensors go out of range at that time. If not, pick 8 more and go again until you find which one is.

[Narangga]

Definitely worth investigating. I've found I can trigger limp mode if I plant the foot from a complete stop. So the fault is evident in the low gears as well. I'll blow the fuel lines out when I service the car this week but it really does sound like it's a communications issue, as you say. That's what has me thinking about the accelerator pedal. I've seen electronic ones go bad before and give incorrect resistance / reading to the ECU.

For the two or three minutes it takes - Have you cleaned the MAP sensor?

[DonDownunder]

Hello. Fuel lift pump replaced and associated filter and pipework flushed. Main injection pump and belt replaced. All fuel sensors replaced and associated wiring checked. Problem associated with fuel demand. Suggest having fuel tank cleaned out. Could have Algea growth which affecting lift pump suction at high flow demand. We did get a bad batch of fuel once which gave the same problem but eventually went away. Another idea was to have fuel injection mapping checked and calibrated at full load on a dyno and full diagnostics etc. Also the issue could be that the low fuel pressure is the system dumping fuel to protect something else which is off scale and outside of set parameters and limits specs. Brad at KLR at South Windsor did a lot of work on D3 as well as Dany at Alto Landrover Nth Sydney and Chris at Toowoomba Landrover . Good luck

Sent from my SM-G925I using AULRO mobile app

[Graeme]

I've found I can trigger limp mode if I plant the foot from a complete stop. So the fault is evident in the low gears as well.Pretty much confirms that it's not caused by blockages or faulty pumps.

[DiscoJono]

Cheers Don. Great to know. I just pulled the MAP sensor and it was absolutely filthy. Gave it a good hit with Contact Cleaner and reinstalled. Limp mode has disappeared. I can plant my foot to the floor without the dreaded "ding ding". Hopefully it stays away. Very happy with the car though. Built nice and tough and well looked after. Cheers!

[Narangga]

Cheers Don. Great to know. I just pulled the MAP sensor and it was absolutely filthy. Gave it a good hit with Contact Cleaner and reinstalled. Limp mode has disappeared. I can plant my foot to the floor without the dreaded "ding ding". Hopefully it stays away. Very happy with the car though. Built nice and tough and well looked after. Cheers!

:arms: :ehigh5:

Great that it appears to be gone Jono. Hopefully it stays that way.

[DonDownunder]

Hello again. You will also find a recent new suspension compressor fitted and a steel sump cover on auto gbox with servicable filter. Brakes just done with new pads and machined disks. Main battery new with engine. Recon alternator late 2015. We had weight issues with GVM when hitched to 3.3 ton cvan and could not have rear 5 seats fitted or reserve tank full hence with running problems we had to sell. Frankly was a great vehicle . We have a new GX 200 series Cruiser now to match the Caravan. I will put a couple of items in the forsale section for local pickup only so keep a lookout. HAPPY NEW YEAR to all

Sent from my SM-G925I using AULRO mobile app

[LandyAndy]

Cheers Don. Great to know. I just pulled the MAP sensor and it was absolutely filthy. Gave it a good hit with Contact Cleaner and reinstalled. Limp mode has disappeared. I can plant my foot to the floor without the dreaded "ding ding". Hopefully it stays away. Very happy with the car though. Built nice and tough and well looked after. Cheers!

Makes one ponder why this wasn't checked by so called professional mechanics,such a basic item,hopefully its sorted.
If it returns,Im wondering if there is a fuel hose that may be pinched somewhere preventing full flow.Also worth looking at the tank venting seeing it has an aftermarket LR tank fitted.
GOODLUCK.
Andrew

[DonDownunder]

Makes one ponder why this wasn't checked by so called professional mechanics,such a basic item,hopefully its sorted.
If it returns,Im wondering if there is a fuel hose that may be pinched somewhere preventing full flow.Also worth looking at the tank venting seeing it has an aftermarket LR tank fitted.
GOODLUCK.
Andrew

Was cleaned many times

Sent from my SM-G925I using AULRO mobile app

[Ean Austral]

Cheers Don. Great to know. I just pulled the MAP sensor and it was absolutely filthy. Gave it a good hit with Contact Cleaner and reinstalled. Limp mode has disappeared. I can plant my foot to the floor without the dreaded "ding ding". Hopefully it stays away. Very happy with the car though. Built nice and tough and well looked after. Cheers!

May be worth spending an hour or so and remove the Y piece intake on the top of the engine and give it a good clean. They get very gunned up from the EGR . IM assuming it still has the EGR connected .

Cheers Ean

[101RRS]

This needs to be fixed! Does it happen with WOT at slow speeds when insufficient fuel pressure cannot be the cause?

No - only higher speeds usually going up hill when the car is already in a high load situation. I have put it down to the software writers for the ECU only taking into account MAP in high load conditions when unloaded and not taking the additional loads of towing. As a result the engine is really trying to suck in air in these high load conditions causing the MAP to be lower to be lower than the ECU expects so throwing up the fault. (interestingly it does not actually throw up a fault code - I have checked a few times with my FCR). I believe it is the same fault that people have reported when towing vans on cruise where the cruise goes to WOT to maintain speed.

All conjecture of course as I do not have the skills to check this all out. Oh my engine has a BAS remap (increases torque at 3000 rpm but not much extra power) and is blanked - has made no difference as the engine does it before and after the remap.

Now I drive to suit and I rarely see it - afterall you should not be driving uphill towing a caravan over 110kph with a sudden WOT - gradual increase in throttle to full throttle does not cause the fault.

A typical grey nomad, caravanner driving style does not cause the issue.

Oh as an EDIT - on the highway I do not tow in Sport mode - only in tight hilly country roads and I do not recall getting the fault in Sport but maybe just coincidence - next time I tow I might look at this - logic being that in Sport mode the ECU should be looking at lower MAPs as you are being sporty - so maybe the ECU then sees the MAPs it expects.

garry

[Grentarc]

No - only higher speeds usually going up hill when the car is already in a high load situation. I have put it down to the software writers for the ECU only taking into account MAP in high load conditions when unloaded and not taking the additional loads of towing. As a result the engine is really trying to suck in air in these high load conditions causing the MAP to be lower to be lower than the ECU expects so throwing up the fault. (interestingly it does not actually throw up a fault code - I have checked a few times with my FCR). I believe it is the same fault that people have reported when towing vans on cruise where the cruise goes to WOT to maintain speed.

All conjecture of course as I do not have the skills to check this all out. Oh my engine has a BAS remap (increases torque at 3000 rpm but not much extra power) and is blanked - has made no difference as the engine does it before and after the remap.

Now I drive to suit and I rarely see it - afterall you should not be driving uphill towing a caravan over 110kph with a sudden WOT - gradual increase in throttle to full throttle does not cause the fault.

A typical grey nomad, caravanner driving style does not cause the issue.

garry
Sounds like you have a MAP sensor that needs replacing to me - might be fine within normal range, but get it up towards the higher boost and it will go out of expected range. I would be borrowing one and seeing if it fixes it.

[101RRS]

Cheers Don. Great to know. I just pulled the MAP sensor and it was absolutely filthy. Gave it a good hit with Contact Cleaner and reinstalled. Limp mode has disappeared. I can plant my foot to the floor without the dreaded "ding ding". Hopefully it stays away. Very happy with the car though. Built nice and tough and well looked after. Cheers!

Yes if you are not blanked you need to clean this regularly - when you have an hour or two take out the plastic Y inlet manifold and you will find it lined with 1cm thick black yukkie oily sludge like you found on the MAP sensor - cleaning this out - is actually what takes the time may also help.

Sorry Ean - just spotted your post saying the same thing.

Garry

[101RRS]

Sounds like you have a MAP sensor that needs replacing to me - might be fine within normal range, but get it up towards the higher boost and it will go out of expected range. I would be borrowing one and seeing if it fixes it.

Well maybe but mine is clean - no longer gets the crap on it as I am blanked - if it was faulty it would throw up a fault on my Faultmate but I might put a new one in at the next service - every D3 that tows a heavy van with cruise control on gets this fault sooner or later so it unlikely to be a sensor but who knows. This problem is also well reported on forums around the world.

Cheers

Garry

[DonDownunder]

Well maybe but mine is clean - no longer gets the crap on it as I am blanked - if it was faulty it would throw up a fault on my Faultmate but I might put a new one in at the next service - every D3 that tows a heavy van with cruise control on gets this fault sooner or later so it unlikely to be a sensor but who knows. This problem is also well reported on forums around the world.

Cheers

Garry
NEVER would I ever contemplate towing a Caravan or any load in Cruise control or shift to overdrive or 6th gear. Urrs on danger

[DiscoJono]

Hello again. You will also find a recent new suspension compressor fitted and a steel sump cover on auto gbox with servicable filter. Brakes just done with new pads and machined disks. Main battery new with engine. Recon alternator late 2015. We had weight issues with GVM when hitched to 3.3 ton cvan and could not have rear 5 seats fitted or reserve tank full hence with running problems we had to sell. Frankly was a great vehicle . We have a new GX 200 series Cruiser now to match the Caravan. I will put a couple of items in the forsale section for local pickup only so keep a lookout. HAPPY NEW YEAR to all

Sent from my SM-G925I using AULRO mobile app

Thanks for letting me know, Don. Appreciate it. I did crawl under before I purchased the vehicle from the dealer and noticed the new brakes and tyres. Very impressive bash plate protection under the car. I drove through a paddock of freshly cut Canola stalks and was amazed how well protected everything was. I didn't know about the Limp mode fiasco before I bought it but I'm hoping I've solved it now. Being a long motor, I assume they just pulled the turbo and all components from old motor to new motor. I'm sure they would've got a good look at the EGR condition though and wouldn't have reinstalled it if it was going crook. Hope you enjoy your Cruiser. I do remember the dealer telling me you'd traded it on one. I have a 2014 GXL ute that I'm very happy with. The 200 series was just a bit far out of reach for my budget..
The Disco is going well though. I did have to engineer a longer handle for the spare tyre carrier as my 5ft wife struggled to secure it. I'm still pleading with her to keep it.

[DonDownunder]

Thanks for letting me know, Don. Appreciate it. I did crawl under before I purchased the vehicle from the dealer and noticed the new brakes and tyres. Very impressive bash plate protection under the car. I drove through a paddock of freshly cut Canola stalks and was amazed how well protected everything was. I didn't know about the Limp mode fiasco before I bought it but I'm hoping I've solved it now. Being a long motor, I assume they just pulled the turbo and all components from old motor to new motor. I'm sure they would've got a good look at the EGR condition though and wouldn't have reinstalled it if it was going crook. Hope you enjoy your Cruiser. I do remember the dealer telling me you'd traded it on one. I have a 2014 GXL ute that I'm very happy with. The 200 series was just a bit far out of reach for my budget..
The Disco is going well though. I did have to engineer a longer handle for the spare tyre carrier as my 5ft wife struggled to secure it. I'm still pleading with her to keep it. Thanks for that. Please
check out the Market Place I have correct engine oil for sale if interested you do servicing yourself

[cuppabillytea]

Just a quick heads up. Before replacing a sensor, try reversing the connection. That is if there are two lugs.

[Graeme]

every D3 that tows a heavy van with cruise control on gets this fault sooner or later so it unlikely to be a sensorAll the more likely to be a tired sensor as they deteriorate with usage (they're a mechanical device) and eventually fall out of spec.

[DiscoJono]

Had to make a spontaneous trip down to Sydney and back last night. Great excuse to test the car for Limp mode. Foot to the floor overtaking several cars up Cherry Tree and Capertee Valley as well as the climb up Great Western Hwy. it seems the sensor clean has done the trick. I'll blet pulling the rest of that "Y" manifold and giving it a good clean when I service the car on Saturday.

[letherm]

Are sensors a service item or are they just left to degrade and/or die before being replaced?

Martin

[Graeme]

The MAP sensor isn't a listed service item but I suspect it may be economical to replace it every 100K kms or so based on an expected improved fuel consumption.

[Ean Austral]

Had to make a spontaneous trip down to Sydney and back last night. Great excuse to test the car for Limp mode. Foot to the floor overtaking several cars up Cherry Tree and Capertee Valley as well as the climb up Great Western Hwy. it seems the sensor clean has done the trick. I'll blet pulling the rest of that "Y" manifold and giving it a good clean when I service the car on Saturday.


When you pull the Y piece just remember there are o rings on the end of the Y so be sure not to damage them, also if the EGR pipes are still connected a pair of long nose pliers and take it easy and you should be able to re use them .

Cheers Ean

[DiscoJono]

Unfortunately the problem has reoccurred but I'm very confident I have the issue circled. I'm sure it is turbo related. A quick search on the Ford Territory forums informs me that there are more than a few people who have encountered this problem with their Territory Diesels which obviously shares the same TDV6 power plant. For these unfortunate people, it seems the dealer would run round in circles trying to find the problem but could not pin point it. Interestingly, no corresponding fault code would appear but the one thing they all shared in common is that they towed caravans and they all had scary encounters, much like you, Don, having to pull over in a hurry and cycle the ignition. A new turbo charger was the solution. There's a YouTube video of a Disco 3 owner in the U.K. with the same problem and symptoms. He replaced his turbo at home and problem was solved. Don, when you had the new long motor installed, they threw the old turbo back on, which is why I expect the problem still persisted. Either way, this weekend I intend to do a thorough check of the compressor shaft play, boost actuator and check for compromised seals.
I reckon 200,000klm for a small turbo is a good run. My Patrol ute's packed up at 150,000.
Anyone know a reasonable turbo supplier? I don't mind after market, as long as they're proven.
I'll be replacing it myself.
Cheers!

[101RRS]

Sorry - not wanting to sound too critical but if you read back through your posts if you had actually replaced everything that you have decided the issue was you would could have bought a new Disco.

Now on some same vague story you are wanting to replace the turbo even though there is not actual indication you have a turbo problem.

Yes you can replace parts until you have replaced everything and the problem is fixed (afterall that is what the dealers do) or actually diagnose the issue.

As I said the issue you have is well known all over the world - read the international Disco/RRS forums, my car does it and I know there is nothing mechanically wrong with it. I suspect the software writers did not adequately take into account the actual manifold pressure when under heavy load like towing - but I don't know - other than routine maintenance like cleaning the MAP sensor (I will replace it next service) I adjust my driving to suit.

By all means get the turbo replaced - I think that is a body off job and pay the associated thousands of $$$$$ but I bet you still have the same issue after.

Don't floor the accelerator, gently bring it up to full power over a few seconds and you will not suffer the problem nearly as much.

Good luck with it.

Garry

[DiscoJono]

Sorry - not wanting to sound too critical but if you read back through your posts if you had actually replaced everything that you have decided the issue was you would could have bought a new Disco.

Now on some same vague story you are wanting to replace the turbo even though there is not actual indication you have a turbo problem.

Yes you can replace parts until you have replaced everything and the problem is fixed (afterall that is what the dealers do) or actually diagnose the issue.

As I said the issue you have is well known all over the world - read the international Disco/RRS forums, my car does it and I know there is nothing mechanically wrong with it. I suspect the software writers did not adequately take into account the actual manifold pressure when under heavy load like towing - but I don't know - other than routine maintenance like cleaning the MAP sensor (I will replace it next service) I adjust my driving to suit.

By all means get the turbo replaced - I think that is a body off job and pay the associated thousands of $$$$$ but I bet you still have the same issue after.

Don't floor the accelerator, gently bring it up to full power over a few seconds and you will not suffer the problem nearly as much.

Good luck with it.

Garry

I don't think you sound critical and I can appreciate what you're saying however I can only go with the process of trial and error. Thankfully, though unfortunate, Don has already eliminated a fair chunk of expensive parts that I would've been concerned about. I think your theory on the software is plausible, however most people with TDV6's don't suffer this issue. They're all running the same ECU software with the same set parameters. Last night I had to make a dash to Bathurst hospital and triggered limp mode without WOT. I was sitting on 100 but never really planted the foot. An acceleration lag was certainly noticible. In the end, I have two options. Find the problem or sell the car as my wife is scared of it. I can't see me getting my money back when I tell the potential buyer about the problem. I'd rather spend a grand and two days labour than dump it and loose a much larger sum of $$. Like I said before, 200,000 isn't bad for a little turbo. I will try and inspect it before I order a new one and tackle the job. It's not a body off job, but a painful one to say at the least.Just out of curiosity, Did you have your turbo checked?

[Graeme]

Have you fitted a new MAP sensor yet?

[DiscoJono]

Have you fitted a new MAP sensor yet?

Not yet. Cleaned it. Anyone used a multimeter on these? I'll have a look through Don's receipts but I think it may have been swapped out already.

[101RRS]

Last night I had to make a dash to Bathurst hospital and triggered limp mode without WOT. I was sitting on 100 but never really planted the foot. An acceleration lag was certainly noticible.

Oh - I may have misread some earlier posts as I thought that the issue only popped up when towing (like mine).

So if you got limp mode without towing something then yes there is something else going on.

My point about replacing stuff remains valid and thanks for not taking it critically as was not intended - on this forum you will see dealers in particular just replacing things until they have fixed the issue only to have the problem return and ultimately solved with input form AULRO members.

On this last incident - have you had time to get the codes read?

Also the cost of a new MAP sensor is not a lot so as Graeme has suggested it might be worth replacing.

Also and I am going into an area I know nothing about - you have a suspicion about the turbo but in themselves they are pretty reliable however the actuator sticks - thinking out aloud is the actuator sticking and not allowing the vanes to go to the right position so causing the problem.

Maybe someone who knows could tell up if this is feasible and if the actuator can be serviced in place.

Irrespective I would replace the MAP sensor.

Good luck

PS - no checking of the turbo as yet.

Garry

[LandyAndy]

I have an idea.
Get an aftermarket re-map done,get a few more horsies,better economy and see if the issue goes.
Its got to be cheaper than throwing a turbo at it,and less painfull.
Andrew

[Grentarc]

I have an idea.
Get an aftermarket re-map done,get a few more horsies,better economy and see if the issue goes.
Its got to be cheaper than throwing a turbo at it,and less painfull.
Andrew
LR021042 is the turbo part number, and about $1150 + freight for genuine Borg-Warner unit.

[Graeme]

Not yet. Cleaned it. Anyone used a multimeter on these? I'll have a look through Don's receipts but I think it may have been swapped out already.
If it's the one that came with the replacement engine then it's unlikely to be the cause.

[LandyAndy]

LR021042 is the turbo part number, and about $1150 + freight for genuine Borg-Warner unit.

Same again to fit????
Andrew

[DiscoJono]

Oh - I may have misread some earlier posts as I thought that the issue only popped up when towing (like mine).

So if you got limp mode without towing something then yes there is something else going on.

My point about replacing stuff remains valid and thanks for not taking it critically as was not intended - on this forum you will see dealers in particular just replacing things until they have fixed the issue only to have the problem return and ultimately solved with input form AULRO members.

On this last incident - have you had time to get the codes read?

Also the cost of a new MAP sensor is not a lot so as Graeme has suggested it might be worth replacing.

Also and I am going into an area I know nothing about - you have a suspicion about the turbo but in themselves they are pretty reliable however the actuator sticks - thinking out aloud is the actuator sticking and not allowing the vanes to go to the right position so causing the problem.

Maybe someone who knows could tell up if this is feasible and if the actuator can be serviced in place.

Irrespective I would replace the MAP sensor.

Good luck

PS - no checking of the turbo as yet.

Garry

My thoughts exactly about the actuator. I reckon it's a possibility she's either sticking or worn out. My other rig has a 600hp Cummins Signature in it but it's just before they switched to variable vain turbo's. I've heard that they're having turbos die after 200,000klms where the traditional turbos should last a million k's. id like to check the intercooler for leaks too before I go through a turbo swap.

Cheers mate

[Graeme]

The actuators are known to fail and linkages become stiff but usually fault codes are stored.

[DonDownunder]

My thoughts exactly about the actuator. I reckon it's a possibility she's either sticking or worn out. My other rig has a 600hp Cummins Signature in it but it's just before they switched to variable vain turbo's. I've heard that they're having turbos die after 200,000klms where the traditional turbos should last a million k's. id like to check the intercooler for leaks too before I go through a turbo swap.

Cheers mate

Hi, I had an another forum item where I mentioned an incident with new motor.
Well after getting a 1000k on the clock before towing with the new motor we hitched up the caravan to our Disco3 and went down the coast to Batemans Bay fo a week. all went well but on the return trip on Friday coming up the long climb on the mountain at Wollongong I experienced a step change in power half way up. The throttle didn't seem to want to respond when fully depressed .It was stinking hot @40 deg ambient outside and I could understand the intercooler not being much use but what else would stop the power when hot & under load. The temp gauge did not indicate any higher than normal temps. Earlier on I would get a bit of black smoke when under full throttle towing accelerating but after the change ex Wollongong I could not even get the black smoke again. Any experience of others with this ??? Help please.

[Graeme]

Attempted full throttle towing up a long, steep hill when 40 deg outside - the ecm would be trying to save the engine.

[101RRS]

Just an example of how this problem or a similar problem is actually quite common.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Towed with the D3 for the first time today - Engine Fault! (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic155040.html)

[shanegtr]

Just an example of how this problem or a similar problem is actually quite common.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Towed with the D3 for the first time today - Engine Fault! (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic155040.html)
I get a very similar result when towing every now and again the same as a few of those posts. Engine Sytem Fault and restricted power, no fault codes stored. Mainly happens when towing my camper up hill or through hilly terrain - mostly if left on cruise control and auto in D. Will happen when not towing on steep long hills - theres one just out of town that I can almost always get it to fault if I try. Best way to avoid it I found is to manualy shift down some gears and hold higher revs and no issues.

[Dadio]

G'day Don. It appears I have acquired your old Disco 3.

I'm actually happy I stumbled across this thread as it gives me insight into what actually happened to the previous engine. Car is a great improvement from my E53 X5 for the farm. I didn't want a Land Cruiser and I'm actually very impressed with the quality of ride out in the paddock.

I have, unfortunately, come across this problem you've described and this forum thread has now got me scratching my thread. I can see you had replaced the high pressure fuel pump and the intercooler hose. I thought it might be the brake light switch so I swapped it and changed a few bad bulbs.

The fact that it throws a bunch of module communication faults has now got me thinking that there is a bad earth but I imagine the dealer would've disconnected and replaced the earth leads to chassis and body when they installed the new engine. This could still be a likely cause however the main code thrown is P2290 which refers to low fuel pressure. I've also noticed the car only throws it's "limp mode tantrum", when you really put the foot to the floor. I can drive to Sydney and back, over taking cars quite comfortably and sitting on 100 without limp mode if I ensure my foot doesn't touch the floor. As soon as you push the pedal all the way down, it'll de-rate and throw a tantrum. I assume you've changed the fuel filter several times since the problem first occurred?



I'm pointing towards a bad earth or a faulty throttle pedal. Perhaps even a faulty MAF. I am however, very interested in knowing what else you've already replaced so I can cross them off the list. (If you still follow this forum of course).



I very much doubt this could be a gearbox issue but I'm not ruling it out completely. Just keen to solve this problem so my wife doesn't make me sell it.



Cheers,

Jono



I had similar issues with multiple warnings on my Disco 3.
Turned out to be an issue with my brake controller. (Older techonsha model). Replaced with new Redarc elite model and no problems since. My mechanic said it is a common issue with Disco3's