Front runner Slimline II Feedback

[shorty]

I have done heaps of searches but am after some very specific info from anyone who has a 3/4 length (just over the raised rear portion) front runner slimline II rack on their D3 / D4. I am decided on this rack for various reasons but wanted to make sure about a couple of key things before ordering.

Does it add much noise when unloaded? Say at speeds of 110 - 120kph?
If you have this rack and have a sunroof is noise / buffeting more of an issue? Can it be driven at 60kph with sunroof open without going mad?
Is there anything you have found particularly annoying about it?

I don't plan to remove it once fitted so just need to be 100% sure! Thanks,

[BMKal]

I have the full length version on mine, and no sunroof. I travel fairly frequently between Kalgoorlie & Perth with no load on the roofrack.

Yes, it does make more noise than the vehicle did without the rack fitted, but not enough to annoy me. It is certainly no worse than other racks that I have had experience with in the past.

Mine is probably a bit worse than just a bare Frontrunner rack, as I have two additional items mounted underneath the platform. Between the two front legs is a 42" LED lightbar, and beneath the platform a little further back is a stainless steel top & aluminium frame camping table which slides in under the platform (it's an option offered by Frontrunner).

Mine has a "wind deflector" under the front of the platform (supplied with the rack from new). I don't really know how effective this is at reducing wind noise, as I have never run without it fitted - however I have been told that the rack will be very noisy without it.

I would say that the main cause of wind noise with this model rack is the fact that the platform rails run across the vehicle / rack. I have seen pictures of a similar platform offered by another supplier (sorry, can't remember who) where the platform rails run length-wise along the rack. I would expect this to be a quieter option.

From my experience though, I can't fault the Frontrunner rack. Very solid bit of gear and easy to mount attachments both above and beneath the platform. We have travelled a lot with ours loaded and never an issue - and I have used it on occasion to cart some reasonably heavy loads of building materials here in town. The one smart addition that I have made to the vehicle since installing the rack has been the ladder on the rear tailgate - this has made life a lot easier when loading / unloading the rack.

One tip though - if the roof on your vehicle could do with a good wash and polish, do it before fitting the rack. There's not a lot of room to get your hand and a polishing cloth in there once the rack is on the vehicle.

[TuffRR]

Between the two front legs is a 42" LED lightbar, and beneath the platform a little further back is a stainless steel top & aluminium frame camping table which slides in under the platform (it's an option offered by Frontrunner).




Sorry for taking this slightly off topic, but I'm about to order a full length Frontrunner rack and was pondering the table and under rack storage. Is it worth the money they charge for it?

[landy]

Sorry for taking this slightly off topic, but I'm about to order a full length Frontrunner rack and was pondering the table and under rack storage. Is it worth the money they charge for it?

I have a slimline II on my Defender and have the under roof table. In a word, brilliant! Good quality and and very handy up out of the way until needed. It's a little more expensive than other camping tables but it all fits together well which I like so all in all well worth the money.
You can also use the slides to hold a solar panel up there so it's all multi purpose as well.
I'd be very surprised if you regretted the purchase.

[eddy]

I have also been contemplating the Frontrunner rack,other contenders are the Dolium rack and the locally made Tracklander.All of them are well made and roughly the same price.The Dolium is aluminium fully welded, with slats running length ways.Tracklander also fully welded aluminium with the addition of a mesh floor.Frontrunner is of modular construction[bolted] in aluminium,so can be easily reconfigured size wise.
Not being too concerned about keeping the roof of the D4 polished I requested a quote from the locally made Tracklander company[Jaram] for lower mounting brackets which they keenly obliged.However for the additional cost,I could get the excellent Frontrunner ladder.But then they do occasionally offer 'Specials'price reductions/accessories free....maybe catch them at the 4wd camping show?
Sorry it does not answer your question, just throws a couple more into the mix!

[BMKal]

Sorry for taking this slightly off topic, but I'm about to order a full length Frontrunner rack and was pondering the table and under rack storage. Is it worth the money they charge for it?




I have a slimline II on my Defender and have the under roof table. In a word, brilliant! Good quality and and very handy up out of the way until needed. It's a little more expensive than other camping tables but it all fits together well which I like so all in all well worth the money.
You can also use the slides to hold a solar panel up there so it's all multi purpose as well.
I'd be very surprised if you regretted the purchase.

Yes - I'm very happy with mine too. Well made and very convenient the way it packs up and slides in under the roofrack.

Just be aware though that the new Frontrunner racks for the D3/D4 are lower than the old ones (like mine) - and you cannot slide the table in under these new racks. There is not enough room between the bottom of the platform and the roof of the vehicle.

I have modified my table by adding a long stainless steel drawer handle at each end of the table. Managed to find some at Bunnings that were almost the exact same in length as the width of the table. Gives you something convenient to grab hold of when sliding the table in / out under the roofrack, and scored brownie points with SWMBO as she now has somewhere to hang her tea towels to dry. :D

The cost of the Frontrunner table & slides is quite high for what it is. I reckon I could easily make up something quite similar for a lot less dollars - though I might be hard pressed to find the same quality materials to make it out of (the stainless steel top on the table is very high quality stuff - nothing like you would find at your local sheet metal suppliers). ;)

[BMKal]

I have also been contemplating the Frontrunner rack,other contenders are the Dolium rack and the locally made Tracklander.All of them are well made and roughly the same price.The Dolium is aluminium fully welded, with slats running length ways.Tracklander also fully welded aluminium with the addition of a mesh floor.Frontrunner is of modular construction[bolted] in aluminium,so can be easily reconfigured size wise.
Not being too concerned about keeping the roof of the D4 polished I requested a quote from the locally made Tracklander company[Jaram] for lower mounting brackets which they keenly obliged.However for the additional cost,I could get the excellent Frontrunner ladder.But then they do occasionally offer 'Specials'price reductions/accessories free....maybe catch them at the 4wd camping show?
Sorry it does not answer your question, just throws a couple more into the mix!

Must be different models about. My Frontrunner is aluminium, but fully welded platform. Certainly can't re-configure it size wise.The only bolts in my rack are securing the legs to the underside of the rack, and securing the wind deflector to the underside of the rack (plus those for the camping table / slides that I installed myself).

[ADMIRAL]

Mine is the later model and bolts direct into the OE roofnuts. Very low profile because of this. It is completely modular, and additional slats can be added to form pretty much a solid platform if required. The sides come off and the rack can actually be shortened by removing components. It has a wind deflector under the front, and I have tried it without ( for about 5klms, horrendous noise ) I put it back on quicksmart. I still believe it would be quieter with a full width angled spoiler type deflector, like some members were playing with for the OE expedition rack. A project for another day.

Certainly no issue with quality or strength.

[shorty]

Mine is the later model and bolts direct into the OE roofnuts. Very low profile because of this. It is completely modular, and additional slats can be added to form pretty much a solid platform if required. The sides come off and the rack can actually be shortened by removing components. It has a wind deflector under the front, and I have tried it without ( for about 5klms, horrendous noise ) I put it back on quicksmart. I still believe it would be quieter with a full width angled spoiler type deflector, like some members were playing with for the OE expedition rack. A project for another day.

Certainly no issue with quality or strength.


Thanks everyone for the feedback. Admiral is yours 'full length' or 3/4?

And does anyone know if it interferes with the digital / satellite radio antenna? My understanding is the rack mounts just forward of the antenna?

Thanks!

[Ferret]

I have the 3/4 length Frontrunner Slimline II rack on D4. I was also concerned about noise but after installation but the additional noise was less than expected.

Problem is once you start putting stuff up there ...

I have no experience on how it goes with a sun roof.

The Frontrunner rear ladder is excellent, you might consider that too.

[shorty]

The Frontrunner rear ladder is excellent, you might consider that too.[/QUOTE]


It has crossed my mind ... mainly to feel like I am on an expedition every data! Do you think it damages the paintwork much where is contacts it at the top of the door?

The accessory bottle opener looks a must!

[landy]

The Frontrunner rear ladder is excellent, you might consider that too.


It has crossed my mind ... mainly to feel like I am on an expedition every data! Do you think it damages the paintwork much where is contacts it at the top of the door?

The accessory bottle operner looks a must![/QUOTE]

Have a look at the bottle opener from 'Mud Stuff U.K.' Really cool.

[Ferret]

I have not taken mine off to look. There is a thin piece of rubber cushion under that step at the top, how effective that is I don't know.

But yes it does require careful fitting to avoid initial scratching / scraping and it does not fit perfectly at the bottom where it bolts in between the upper tail gate latch mechanism and the tail gate panel - it does not follow the horizontal curvature of the tail gate panel very well (if at all).

It does make using the rack much easier and adds a very convenient place to attach a bag for holding rubbish etc.

[BMKal]

I have not taken mine off to look. There is a thin piece of rubber cushion under that step at the top, how effective that is I don't know.

But yes it does require careful fitting to avoid initial scratching / scraping and it does not fit perfectly at the bottom where it bolts in between the upper tail gate latch mechanism and the tail gate panel - it does not follow the horizontal curvature of the tail gate panel very well (if at all).

It does make using the rack much easier and adds a very convenient place to attach a bag for holding rubbish etc.

I have the same ladder and, after a bit of fiddling around and taking care with the positioning of the protective rubber strip under the top attachment point, the paintwork on the vehicle is well protected and has never been marked (I've had it off a couple of times since fitting).

I had similar issues with getting the bottom bracket to align properly on the vehicle - if I just bolted it on, the top bracket "hook" did not sit squarely over the top of the tailgate, and the edge of the bracket scraped on the roof when opening / closing the tailgate. I fixed this by "twisting" the ladder a little bit using two crowbars on the floor of the shed. Took a couple of attempts to get it right, but it now all sits square as it should.

Definitely wouldn't be without the ladder though. I hadn't thought of hanging a rubbish bag or anything on it, but getting up onto the roofrack to load / unload is much easier than before.

[sobie2000]

I'll be having a full length Slimline installed in next fortnight once a take deliver of my D4 next week. I'll post my experience with the rack and noise once its done.

[pwillo]

I have the full length version, it is a little noisy but after two years I rarely notice it. I also have the high rooftop Tent brackets fitted all the time.

But, I moved into the D4 from a Patrol with a full length ARB rack..........

Regards

[ADMIRAL]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Admiral is yours 'full length' or 3/4?

And does anyone know if it interferes with the digital / satellite radio antenna? My understanding is the rack mounts just forward of the antenna?

Thanks!
Mine is full length. I can't say that I have noticed any interference to the radio or phone. There are some pics on the site somewhere. Do a search for Frontrunner slimline.
The attached is one I found at short notice.99541

[Learner]

I have the same ladder and, after a bit of fiddling around and taking care with the positioning of the protective rubber strip under the top attachment point, the paintwork on the vehicle is well protected and has never been marked (I've had it off a couple of times since fitting).

I had similar issues with getting the bottom bracket to align properly on the vehicle - if I just bolted it on, the top bracket "hook" did not sit squarely over the top of the tailgate, and the edge of the bracket scraped on the roof when opening / closing the tailgate. I fixed this by "twisting" the ladder a little bit using two crowbars on the floor of the shed. Took a couple of attempts to get it right, but it now all sits square as it should.

SNIP

When I was planning on buying the Frontrunner WindCheetah rack, I contacted a SA forum and asked them about the Frontrunner ladder. The consensus was DON'T, get the LR ladder instead.

Best Wishes,
Peter

[VK3GJM]

i purchased the SL2 for it's static weight and carrying capacity, not because the D4 can carry 200kg, more about it's construction and versatility.

When assembling I used a nickel based threat lubricant on each bolt/nut. The FR SL2 is 2.5 years old and worth every cent in my opinion. I also concur with most if not all comments made.

A couple of comments/suggestions:-

When using long loads crossing several spans, annoying rattling can drive you mad on badly rutted/rocky tracks. I often use rubber stand-offs/pads to elevate what ever to ensure only the ends are placed and secured.

If you elevate the rack as high as possible, some creative metal work allows you to mount a long handle showed underneath and secure it.

Some additional metal work also holds other HF antennas underneath, out of the way, with easy access.

The hi-lift bracket system is great and easy access in minutes.

As for noise, as most have indicated, yes at speeds beyond 80km/hr it is notable empty, however, once loaded with the basics, well it is what it is.

At one stage I thought to make a mechanism to crank it up to the height of the garage roof but the effort to unbolt/bolt up when actually needed was to great. The navigator doesn't complain anyway.

Just positioned the mantras across the front of the SL2, again because of the versatile Tslot arrangement, any 8mm bolt will fit, therefore making small posts, brackets and bits bent aluminium/Steel brackets makes it easy to bolt anything small or large irrespective of it's mounting arrangement.

I carry all sorts depending on the trip and needs, I do try to stick with rook limits, 75kg in total, but that can be a challenge, thus my weight is distributed and properly secured, therefore the loaded weight + static weight are one with no movement possible. I also ensure everything is as low profile as possible, and if it's high it is light to keep centre of gravity low.

I have attached a shot of MY SL2 beyond capacity, blue box is empty, 2 x 20 ltd plastic jerry cans full. That weekend we did some serious 4wding and collected fire wood on the way around Dago, have never experienced any vehicle instability issues, yet again, you have to drive to the conditions and know your height/weight limits.

All up, I would recommend the product, and yes would buy one next time.

Happy travelling.

Regards

Gerald:)

[BMKal]

When I was planning on buying the Frontrunner WindCheetah rack, I contacted a SA forum and asked them about the Frontrunner ladder. The consensus was DON'T, get the LR ladder instead.

Best Wishes,
Peter

So did they give you any reason why ????

I've had the Frontrunner ladder on mine for a couple of years now, and have never had a problem with it - it does what it was designed to do.

At a significantly cheaper price than the LR ladder, I'm happy with my purchase. ;)

[BMKal]

i purchased the SL2 for it's static weight and carrying capacity, not because the D4 can carry 200kg, more about it's construction and versatility.

When assembling I used a nickel based threat lubricant on each bolt/nut. The FR SL2 is 2.5 years old and worth every cent in my opinion. I also concur with most if not all comments made.

A couple of comments/suggestions:-

When using long loads crossing several spans, annoying rattling can drive you mad on badly rutted/rocky tracks. I often use rubber stand-offs/pads to elevate what ever to ensure only the ends are placed and secured.

If you elevate the rack as high as possible, some creative metal work allows you to mount a long handle showed underneath and secure it.

Some additional metal work also holds other HF antennas underneath, out of the way, with easy access.

The hi-lift bracket system is great and easy access in minutes.

As for noise, as most have indicated, yes at speeds beyond 80km/hr it is notable empty, however, once loaded with the basics, well it is what it is.

At one stage I thought to make a mechanism to crank it up to the height of the garage roof but the effort to unbolt/bolt up when actually needed was to great. The navigator doesn't complain anyway.

Just positioned the mantras across the front of the SL2, again because of the versatile Tslot arrangement, any 8mm bolt will fit, therefore making small posts, brackets and bits bent aluminium/Steel brackets makes it easy to bolt anything small or large irrespective of it's mounting arrangement.

I carry all sorts depending on the trip and needs, I do try to stick with rook limits, 75kg in total, but that can be a challenge, thus my weight is distributed and properly secured, therefore the loaded weight + static weight are one with no movement possible. I also ensure everything is as low profile as possible, and if it's high it is light to keep centre of gravity low.

I have attached a shot of MY SL2 beyond capacity, blue box is empty, 2 x 20 ltd plastic jerry cans full. That weekend we did some serious 4wding and collected fire wood on the way around Dago, have never experienced any vehicle instability issues, yet again, you have to drive to the conditions and know your height/weight limits.

All up, I would recommend the product, and yes would buy one next time.

Happy travelling.

Regards

Gerald:)

Looks good Gerald. ;)

I'd be interested to see what you have used to allow storage of long handled shovel and HF aerials under the rack. I've got a long range telephone aerial fitted to mine, and it would be handy to have somewhere to store the whip when I need to remove it from the bullbar, such as when going in for a service or when I put it on the boat to Tassie in January.

I've currently got the FrontRunner camping table mounted under the rack, so that takes up the middle section - but there's still room down the sides to fit long skinny items like shovel handle / aerials. :D

I have about a dozen or so "eye-bolts" on top of the rack and move these around to the positions required for securing down loads on top - usually an Oztent RV5 on the passengers side and a Rhino Bag with chairs / stretchers and other lightweight gear on the rear right, with a little room above the driver for a couple of small odds & sods.

You are right about the convenience of the "tracks" both on top of and under the rack needing only standard M8 bolts - this is so much easier than some of the other "brand name" racks which require that you buy their proprietary fittings at inflated prices.

[VK3GJM]

Mounting long handle shovel under the FR SL2 with 8mm T-slots.


I have the luxury of a Lathe and other metal working tools, so bending up and turning down fittings is easy. However, the same can be achieved with a very large rubber grommet and some basic tools such as a reasonable size bench vice.

Purchase a single Rhine rack shovel holder, this tightens onto the handle and secures it and stops rattles.

[VK3GJM]

This is a Codan HF whip with a large heavy spring base.

There is a base bracket and 14mm bolt and 2 additional whip supporting brackets, each with a rubber grommet to suit the whip OD, equally spaced from rear to front. 2 brackets will not do it, whip will hit vehicle roof or SL2, thus 3 is minimum.

I assume your requirements are a 3G/4G larger fibreglass whip. The principle is the same, may have to be larger brackets and grommets. The connector end ( Base ) may have to be adapted somehow to suit the base and a mechanism to secure it properly.

[BMKal]

Thanks very much for that Gerald. You've just given me a couple of projects. :D

The aerial that I have is an RFI "Q-Fit" and is very similar to what you have shown, except that in my case, the spring base remains on the bullbar and the whip screws off the top of the spring base. I am currently running a 9db gain whip for phone reception in flat country - will probably also purchase a shorter and lower gain whip for when in Perth / Tassie / hilly country. ;)

[LandyAndy]

Brian loves his whips.
Whips me whilst Im wearing that kinky gear he posts from time to time;);););)
Andrew

[BMKal]

Brian loves his whips.
Whips me whilst Im wearing that kinky gear he posts from time to time;);););)
Andrew

Just for you .........................

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/94.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
screenshot on pc (http://postimage.org/app.php)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/92.jpg

[VK3GJM]

Hi Brian,

Glad I could help, even if it turns into an idea....

[LRD414]

Does anyone with a Frontrunner Slimline II ever remove it when not required?

I have a short Rhino Pioneer Platform that is hoisted into the carport when not in use.
I am considering a Frontrunner full length but would still like to remove it when not travelling.

Seems to be mounted via 4 bolts per side into the factory roof mounting points, so in theory would be easy to unbolt and hoist up.
However, are the bolts accessible with the rack attached? Mounting bolts may be hard to access with rack sitting on top.

Perhaps someone could have a look and take a couple of detailed photos of mounting points with removal in mind.

Thanks,
Scott

[BMKal]

Does anyone with a Frontrunner Slimline II ever remove it when not required?

I have a short Rhino Pioneer Platform that is hoisted into the carport when not in use.
I am considering a Frontrunner full length but would still like to remove it when not travelling.

Seems to be mounted via 4 bolts per side into the factory roof mounting points, so in theory would be easy to unbolt and hoist up.
However, are the bolts accessible with the rack attached? Mounting bolts may be hard to access with rack sitting on top.

Perhaps someone could have a look and take a couple of detailed photos of mounting points with removal in mind.

Thanks,
Scott

Just went out and had a look and took a couple of pics. Not as difficult as I thought - at least on mine. But remember that mine is the old style of FrontRunner rack / mounting system. I am not sure exactly what the differences are between this and the new style. [wink11]

Front legs are easily accessible from behind, with only a single bolt down into the track on the roof.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/345.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/klvrpljtn/)

The rest of the legs can be accessed from behind (under the rack) and have two bolts per leg down into the track on the roof.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/346.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/qqgr8p9ib/)

All of the legs have a single bolt through the side holding the upper and lower sections together. If it was me, I would remove these bolts first and lift off the rack, together with the upper halves of the legs. Then remove the bottom section of the legs separately, as you would then have much better access to the heads of the bolts going down into the roof / tracks. To re-fit the rack, I would first fit the bottom halves of the legs, but leave the bolts loose enough that you can get a bit of movement if required. Then lower the rack complete with the upper halves of the legs into place and insert the single bolt through each leg to join the two halves together. Once you have all bolts in - tighten everything up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/347.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/evdriqz6v/)

Hopefully the newer version of the FrontRunner rack is no more difficult to remove / re-fit than this is.

[LRD414]

Thanks Brian. Do you have short rails that the rear feet bolt to (2 bolt) rather than direct to vehicle mount points? The instructions I read on their website show direct mount to vehicle without rails. Perhaps that something that changed with the newer design.

Cheers,
Scott

[iannicki]

Scott,

Here are some more pictures for you. 4 supports per side. The front supports appear to have covers on the bolts, the middle and rear supports don't. I took 2 pictures just of the rear support.

I am not sure what model rack I have. The invoice didn't help much. I can tell you it was supplied and fitted new in early 2012.

Ian

122331122332122333122334122335122336122337

[LRD414]

Thanks Ian. Yours appears the same as Brians, with roof mounted tracks.
It seems that the current full length version does not have tracks but there are two 3/4 length versions, one with tracks & one without.
But either way the track is Frontrunner specific, so my existing Rhino tracks would not suit.

Full length with 4 mounting points (per side) & no tracks:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/341.jpg
And the 3/4 length version with tracks:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/342.jpg

It may be feasible to combine the tracks with a full length rack, which would be a similar arrangement to the older ones Brian and Ian have but only if they still offer the same front foot design.

Cheers,
Scott

[BMKal]

Looks like Ian's rack is the same model / vintage as mine, except that it was installed using less bolts in the rear legs. The "covers" on the bolts are just plastic clip on things you can get from any decent bolt supplier and will come off easily with the flick of a screwdriver tip. I lost a couple of mine, and now have a bag full of them in the shed. [wink11]

Both mine and Ian's have a "track" installed on the high section of the roof, and the rack legs bolt to this. In my case, the "track" is after-market. Not sure which brand it is - it was supplied and fitted by the shop which fitted the roof rack and awning down in Perth. I'm pretty sure that one of the modifications made with the new design is that you can mount to a D4 without the need for a "track" on the roof of the vehicle - thereby allowing the rack to be mounted lower than was previously possible. I was told that if the new rack was mounted low without tracks on the roof, there is insufficient clearance between the bottom of the rack and the roof to mount the FrontRunner camping table and slides that I have under mine. If you wanted to be able to mount one of these tables under the new style of rack, then you still need to have tracks on the roof (and I assume some form of front leg extension / adjustment for additional length) to give you the additional clearance needed. I guess your choice would depend on whether you wanted to keep the height of your vehicle / rack as low as is possible, or if you wanted a camping table carried in under the rack. Personally, I like the height / clearance of the rack on mine, partly because I can carry the table (and other things) under the rack, but also because it gives me enough room to get my hand in there when I want to clean / polish the roof of the vehicle. I have never taken the rack off since it was installed, and cannot imagine that I ever will unless I am selling the vehicle.

[Mungus]

The mounting bolts for the Slimline II rails are easily accessible. I'll take some pics for you tomorrow.
When I got the kit, I thought the rails had been bent during transport, so without checking I straightened them....Lesson learnt....Don't!!! They are not meant to be dead straight.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Just curious - where are people buying these from? Locally or SA?

[BMKal]

Just curious - where are people buying these from? Locally or SA?

Local. Opposite Lock is now the main distributor for FrontRunner products, though there are other outlets who sell them also.[wink11]

[LRD414]

I was told that if the new rack was mounted low without tracks on the roof, there is insufficient clearance between the bottom of the rack and the roof to mount the FrontRunner camping table and slides that I have under mine. If you wanted to be able to mount one of these tables under the new style of rack, then you still need to have tracks on the roof (and I assume some form of front leg extension / adjustment for additional length) to give you the additional clearance needed.
I found this statement on the Front Runner website relating to the new rack with mounting feet (no track):
"These Foot Rails contain 2 openings to access Front Runner under rack mount tables (1 smaller prep and 1 larger camp size table)."
I'll make further enquiries if I go ahead but that statement sounds promising.


The mounting bolts for the Slimline II rails are easily accessible. I'll take some pics for you tomorrow.
Thanks, that would be appreciated. I understand that almost everyone just leaves their rack on permanently & I may end up doing that too but I still want to understand the difficult involved in frequent removal.

Cheers,
Scott

[BMKal]

I found this statement on the Front Runner website relating to the new rack with mounting feet (no track):
"These Foot Rails contain 2 openings to access Front Runner under rack mount tables (1 smaller prep and 1 larger camp size table)."
I'll make further enquiries if I go ahead but that statement sounds promising.

Cheers,
Scott

If you're keen to have a table under your rack and there is room for it to fit, I'd seriously consider making your own. From what I've seen on here, you're not shy to have a crack at fabricating / installing things yourself and have the skills to do it - and seriously - there is nothing at all to the FrontRunner table and mounting slides - but they sure know how to charge a ridiculous price for it. [wink11]

I have the genuine FrontRunner camping table and slide mounts - but now that I've seen it in the "flesh" - I would have no hesitation at all in fabricating and installing something myself. I am very confident that I could make something at least as good as theirs (probably better) and for much less cost than what they are asking. Doing it yourself, you could also modify the design / shape / size / materials to suit your own requirements. FrontRunner offers two sizes - small and large. I have the large one - but there is still plenty of room under the roof rack to go even larger than mine if required. The trick is in selection of materials to keep the weight down. FrontRunner describes their table as "stainless steel". In fact, only the "skin" is stainless steel - the frame and legs are aluminium square tubing. The frame is welded, and the legs are held on simply by bolts and nyloc nuts. The s/s "skin" on the top is quite thin but is very good quality - it has a "brushed" finish on the top surface, but the underside (which normally faces upward when mounted under your roof rack and therefore collects water / dust etc) is a very shiny, highly polished finish. The table does have a couple of small drain holes in the corners of the top to allow collected water to drain - these are way too small and I have drilled them out to significantly larger diameter on mine.

One thing that I learnt when installing the slides and table on mine - do the installation with the rack off the vehicle. It is an absolute mungrel of a job installing the slides and adjusting them for correct spacing when the rack is mounted on the vehicle - and that is with the older style rack with more clearance under it. [bigwhistle]

[Mungus]

Front bolt - small 1/4" socket set (short extension) gets it
122415

Rear bolt
122416
Rear and two more
122418

[Mungus]

The FR tables are overpriced; however, very nicely made and the S/S top has magnetic properties, so it is a low grade stainless.

[LRD414]

Excellent photos. Seems quite simple. The middle two mounts would perhaps need a ratchet ring spanner for easy access. The factory gutter strip seems to be almost fully intact, with just holes for the bolts and the FR feet sit on top of the strip rather than in the gutter. So removal looks quite feasible.

Thanks,
Scott

[Mungus]

I used a ratchet ring spanner, just be careful though as the feet sit a little lower than the roof and therefore you can scratch the roof easily.
Yes, no need to drill any holes whatsoever. The gutter strip has removable plugs and rail feet sit straight over the top of the gutter strip.

[LRD414]

The FR tables are overpriced; however, very nicely made and the S/S top has magnetic properties, so it is a low grade stainless.
So does the new style rack come with the mounting hardware for the table or is that an optional extra purchased with the table?

Scott

[BMKal]

So does the new style rack come with the mounting hardware for the table or is that an optional extra purchased with the table?

Scott

Only comes with purchase of the table. [wink11]

Very easy to make your own though - there really is nothing to it.

[Mungus]

Only comes with purchase of the table. [wink11]

Very easy to make your own though - there really is nothing to it.

Actually you can purchase separately. https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/au/rack-accessories/table-brackets-for-mki-table-incl-latch-rrac097.html

Would be easy to make your own, but the little clamp at the back is pretty nifty though.

[Guss]

Front bolt - small 1/4" socket set (short extension) gets it
122415

Rear bolt
122416
Rear and two more
122418

Hi Magnus,

I noticed your "ditch moulding" hasn't been cut away from the front and rear feet as it mentions in the instructions. Do you think this is unnecessary? I was hoping not to make any cuts...

Cheers

John

127949

[Mungus]

Hi Magnus,

I noticed your "ditch moulding" hasn't been cut away from the front and rear feet as it mentions in the instructions. Do you think this is unnecessary? I was hoping not to make any cuts...

Cheers

John

127949
Hi Gus. If your ditch moulding is the type that is a thin alloy metal with a thin rubber coating and blanking plugs where the mounting threads are located, there is no need to cut it as per instructions. The rail feet pull down tight on the strip without distortion. If in doubt trial it first before unnecessarily cutting the strips. As mentioned somewhere else, it does pay to run a tap though those mount threads as they can be very tight. I didn't when I installed and I have come close to snapping a bolt trying to remove it one time, so I will do this in the near future.

[Mungus]

Also on another point, I had issues (only because I'm fastidious) with the rack causing the roof lining to vibrate and the centre roof light to vibrate/slight rattle, when doing 100 or more. Wind noise was also very noticeable to me, but as above, I am one of those people who hear every rattle and squeak; however I could pinpoint the source to the deflector area, possibly awning bracket area. I wasn't sure if it was the max trax mounted across the rack or if it was the Manta awning brackets I got for my Drifta awning, as those brackets are large and high with large flat gussets. After messaging FR on FB about my concerns, I got a phone call and was told to remove the small rubber spacers that go between the underside air deflector and the rack track (as per instructions) and to move the two pieces apart leaving about 20mm gap between them. I did this last night and today found it hard to pinpoint any specific wind noise and no vibration evident. It's only 20 minutes of driving though, but hopefully this has resolved my issue.

[Jock McD]

I too am looking at fitting a full length rack - preferably a FR Slimline II to my 2015 D4.
However, my Disco is fitted with genuine full length roof rails.
Has anyone done this and if so any comments?
Also interested in any other suggestions / recommendations anyone has.
Thanks, Jock.

[Guss]

Has anyone fitted the supplied wind deflector, I'm not sure how useful it is and I believe it would get in the way of long loads...

[Ferret]

... I believe it would get in the way of long loads...

How so. The wind deflector is mounted underneath the leading edge of the front cross rail. It does not protrude above the rack.

[Guss]

How so. The wind deflector is mounted underneath the leading edge of the front cross rail. It does not protrude above the rack.

Ok, I may have misread the instructions, does anyone have any pics?

[Mungus]

Has anyone fitted the supplied wind deflector, I'm not sure how useful it is and I believe it would get in the way of long loads...

Gus,
By 'supplied wind deflector' I take it you mean the two piece angle that fits to the underside. You need to fit this! Without it you will get reverberations throughout the whole car at speeds around 60. It's similar to when you have only one rear window down.
If you get whistling, excessive wind noise and/or vibrations, try the remedy I pointed out a few posts back.

[Mungus]

Ok, I may have misread the instructions, does anyone have any pics?

Narangga has a pic on page 3 of this thread.

Frontrunner slimline2 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/179513-frontrunner-slimline2-3.html)

Keep in mind a lot of the instructions show the rack in the upside down position.

[BMKal]

Keep in mind a lot of the instructions show the rack in the upside down position.

Why ??? Did someone fit one to a HiLux. :wasntme:

[ATH]

I saw a good looking rack in supacrap recently made by Rola. Had all the extras as does the Rhino etc. plus had lengthwise slats which should help keep any noise down.
Cook liked the look of it as well but reckons now we're (maybe/probably) keeping the Deafener we don't need anything else hanging off the Disco......
AlanH.

[Oztourer]

I too am looking at fitting a full length rack - preferably a FR Slimline II to my 2015 D4.
However, my Disco is fitted with genuine full length roof rails.
Has anyone done this and if so any comments?
Also interested in any other suggestions / recommendations anyone has.
Thanks, Jock.

Hi Jock
I had 3/4 length factory rails before I fitted my full length rack. I went to the expense of purchasing new full length gutter mouldings from LR directly. I offset the cost by selling my 3/4 rails. A word of warning if you do this. Make sure you are able to transport the new mouldings home from the spares department. Each moulding comes in a 3-4m long cardboard tube and I had already taken my old rack off!! I had a devil of a time fitting them in the cabin!
When I fitted the rack, rather than cutting the mouldings around the rack feet, i kept them as one piece And opened up the holes in them to be large enough such that the feet of the rack sat directly onto the roof studs.
Hope this helps,
Matt

[ATH]

How much Oztourer? I was quoted in the region of 1700 bucks just for those rails when I bought my D4 last November. Very pricey to my way of thinking.
Cheers.
AlanH.