Brakes on a 130 300tdi

[rover-56]

I have noticed that the brakes on my 95 300tdi 130 don't bite too well. I can't lock the wheels at all on gravel or bitumen. That can't be right.

Pads and rotors were replaced by previous owner, I have done about 40k km on them. Don't know what brand they are.

Pump vacuum is between 5 and 20 in Hg, depending on engine speed. Should be enough?

Does anyone have any recommendations on pads? I don't mind dust or fast wear. I am very easy on brakes.

The brake manufacturer websites are useless, they talk about things like "hybrid fusion and stealth technology" whatever that is....

Cheers,
Terry

[mudder110]

sounds like a vacuum pump or booster problem if the pedal is hard after start up id be checking vacuum pump and booster,trw pads are ok cheers

[Don 130]

I use genuine pads after a mechanic fitted aftermarket and the screeching could be heard several suburbs away.
Check the front of your booster for cracks around the mounting bolts. It's a common issue. The cure is a new booster, and if yours is cracked, you'll notice a big difference in braking performance when the new one goes on.
Don.

[rover-56]

Thanks Don & Mudder, couple of things to check.
Vacuum is 20 in Hg, I don't think a little plastic pump would do better than that.
Genuine pads sounds like a good idea.

Terry

[roverrescue]

Check the booster near where the master bolts on. Very common for them to crack. Crack opens when peddle pressure applied which then leaks all your vacuum away. I assume you have checked the vacuum from the pump upstream of leak.

Very common fault.

[rover-56]

Good call, maybe I had better check the vacuum with a tee in the line.
Thanks.
Terry

[roverrescue]

A tee in the line and applying peddle pressure will open any hairline crack and leak off vacuum.

S

[rover-56]

Problem is found - I think
Vacuum direct connection to gauge 20 in Hg max
Vacuum with gauge teed into line 8 in Hg max
Won't hold vac with engine stopped.

Can't see any cracks, might be the diaphragm

Terry