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mudder110
14th November 2015, 04:43 PM
howdy all ok ive got a full set of bearings and seals arrh arrh question before I start this tomorrow how hard are the hub bearings to do? did the ones on our camper trailer they were parallel bearings no problem but I don't have a vice any hints or warnings appreciated once again thanks.

Xtreme
14th November 2015, 05:02 PM
Nothing difficult about replacing the bearings on a 110 although if you have a later model with the single stake nut on the stub axle then you'll need to either fit a new one or convert to the older (and IMHO better) system which uses two (reusable) nuts with a locking tab between them.

Oh .... and you'll need a hub nut spanner to fit these 52mm hub nuts.

A search should reveal a tutorial for the procedure - may include conversion to oil lubricated bearings also.

jboot51
14th November 2015, 05:14 PM
Once you get the hub off it is straight forward.
Knock the old bearing race out with a hammer and punch.
Clean the inside of the hub and the threads for the flange bolts.
I use a large socket and press to drive the new races home.
You could tap them in with a hammer and punch if you had nothing available.
Oil the bearings a little and drive the hub seal home using and old original drive flange. The seal sits 4mm ?? below the face of the hub.
I install both bearings and then offer it up to the stub axle.


Once the hub is on I tighten the inner nut quite firm and rotate the hub to seat the bearings.
Release the inner nut and tighten again until all movement is gone + 45 degress.
install lock tab.
install out nut 65nM
Bend tab in 2 directions


To remove the callipers, there Philips head screw securing the hard pipe, undo these and you can move the callipers without loosing fluid.
Make sure you secure the callipers so they don't fall. You also need to push the pads back a little before unbolting.