300 tdi Clutch problems AGAIN!

[KeithMac]

Hi Landie Lads and Ladies - needing your combined wisdom, knowledge (and encouragement).

I thought I was having a really bad backlash problems. First thing in the morning when I would start the Defender, I would releases the clutch it would go BANG and shudder, then it would be fine. That was till earlier this week when I started dressing the clutch a few times before I put it into gear - it then engaged smoothy and no more problems the rest of the day.

That was until the clutch started slipping on the way up Jarrahdale hill! Oh no!

The clutch was replaced only 18 months ago due to a complete failure - the centre ripped itself apart and stranded me in Brookton. So, I really don't feel that I shouldn't need a new one at this stage.

It was suggested to me that I needed to adjust the clutch freeplay, but I don't know how to do that.

Do I need to get another clutch?
Is is worthwhile getting a heavy duty one?
Anything else you guys can think of he tell me?

Thanks for taking time to read these sad ramblings. Looking forward to your replies.

Keith

'94 300 tdi

[steveG]

Do you have a bit of free travel at the top of the stroke when you first start to push on the pedal? There should be some but I don't recall the measurement. It can be adjusted via the master cylinder pushrod. You get to that by removing the the rectangular cover on top of the clutch pedal box in the engine bay.

Steve

[Blknight.aus]

if its engaging suddenly then its usually the throw out bearing carrier sticking on the input shaft tube on the front of the box, the slave sticking or the MC not releasing due to mis adjustment.

to check take the cover plate off of the clutch tower and make sure theres some free play on the push rod into the MC.

[KeithMac]

Ok, thanks guys, you have shown me the first job, I will check the free play via the master cylinder.

I know I would get help here. Thanks.

Keith

[KeithMac]

Ok, another question.

Does the slipping clutch indicate that it is about to fail (don't want to go through that again), or might it be the lack of adjustment.

With the check and adjustment of the free play alibi ate the problem?

Btw, this clutch was put in by an experienced LR mechanic shop.

[weeds]

If it doesn't have free play and you adjust it may not fix the problem or it may......there could be a combination of issues

You can check the free play from the driver seat.....you should be able to depress the clutch maybe 5mm without effort than more effort should be felt.

Have you dropped into the workshop where the new clutch was fitted??

[KeithMac]

If it doesn't have free play and you adjust it may not fix the problem or it may......there could be a combination of issues

You can check the free play from the driver seat.....you should be able to depress the clutch maybe 5mm without effort than more effort should be felt.

Have you dropped into the workshop where the new clutch was fitted??

Haven't been to the workshop yet - they are an hour and a half away from me. Will check the adjustments before I do anything else. Thanks.

[Blknight.aus]

if you have free play and its slipping you generally need to pull the engine or the box.

[KeithMac]

Ok, so I followed the advise given, I sorted out the freeplay on the clutch peddle.

After reading my manual I found there was none ( you would think I would have worked that out on my own!). Anyway I adjusted it and what a difference that made. The gear changes are smoother and the clutch peddle is lighter! Who would have guessed.

Hopefully the clutch is still ok - driving up the same section of Jarrahdale Hill tonight there was no slipping!

Thank you all for your help. What a great forum!

[steveG]

Good work :)

Steve

[mox]

[QUOTE=KeithMac;2460093]Hi Landie Lads and Ladies - needing your combined wisdom, knowledge (and encouragement).

(Snip before and after this quote extract)
"The clutch was replaced only 18 months ago due to a complete failure - the centre ripped itself apart and stranded me in Brookton. So, I really don't feel that I shouldn't need a new one at this stage."


Several months ago centre of mine started falling apart. Would still drive but not disengage. Using starter when in first gear could get going and then change using techniques like for crash box. This is more difficult with synchro one. Harder to "feel " if you have got revs right. Got me home and later to local country town and back when no other vehicle readily available.


Got clutch kit from my regular supplier of Land Rover bits. Clutch and pressure plates same as original. Valeo brand. The linings on the failed original were less than half worn out. Thought it worth looking into what better plates are available. Finished up getting an Exedy from Autobrake. Apparently made by Daiken, Japan. Looked more robust centre torsional vibration damper and also two rather than one row of rivets holding facings.


Of course more "robust" price. Probably get what you pay for! Maybe cheaper Valeo is OK for petrol V8 Disco with much less torsional vibration to destroy clutch centre than in 4 cylinder diesel. I gather the German Sachs are another good quality brand of clutch plate.





'

[KeithMac]

When my clutch went the center just ripped out of it. Not going anywhere

I changed the a frame ball joint (rear). It reduced the backlash even more and it seems to ride more smoothly (my imagination???)

[Jode]

When my clutch went the center just ripped out of it. Not going anywhere

I changed the a frame ball joint (rear). It reduced the backlash even more and it seems to ride more smoothly (my imagination???)
Not your imagination - you'll get a lot of shunting when you lay off the speedo if the A-frame balljoint is knackered.