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dogdog1
12th December 2015, 09:54 PM
Hi , Maybe someone on here could help with this . I'm doing my first ever timing belt change , I have everything lined up , crank locking pin in place , but I cannot get the injection pump timing pin to go in . I can see the hole apparently lined up when I shine a light into it , but the pin will not go through . I tried loosening the three bolts and wiggling the pump with a socket on the center bolt , but it made no difference . Any clues ?

ROAMER_AUS
12th December 2015, 10:02 PM
First of all, your post is titled soooo wrong ;)

I take it it's a 300tdi.

What's the diameter of the pin?

Blknight.aus
12th December 2015, 10:31 PM
Hopefully you didnt undo the bolts that mount the gear to the pump, thats how you do the fine adjustment of the pump.....

you dont need to use the timing pins they do make it easier however.

check that the hole isnt obsucred or damaged
check that the pin youre using isnt bent and is the right size
make sure that the timings not out a tooth on the belt and has then been compensated by backing the pump.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/133800-tdi300-timing-belt.html?highlight=tdi300+timing

thats the thread I did up on doing the timing belt, its got the sizes of the pins in some pics as well as the method for without timing tools.

you could also try out leaving the crank locking pin out, walking the crank back and forth till your timing pin fits in the pump and then resetting the crank position and installing the locking pin. Its possible that the tensioner has slipped a bit or the belt is excessively stretchy so the timing is out just enough to be baulking the pin. You can also achieve this by gently rocking the pump by means of the center bolt. If you see the belt "flexing" then the belt is stretched or the tensioner has slacked off.

either way, if you have slacked the gear mounting bolts for the pump you will most likely want to check the injection pin height when you're finished doing the timing belt.

Best of luck.

dogdog1
16th December 2015, 02:40 AM
Hi , Thanks for reply , I've checked and the pin is 9.5 mm , it's not bent , and the hole looks clear . That's what puzzles me . I can see the hole in there but the pin doesn't want to know . Before I stripped it out the engine started instantly with good power and no smoke . When I took the timing case cover off , I was amazed to see that the old type tensioner had split it's outer rim . Part of it was lying at the bottom of the case but luckily the other half remained in contact with the belt . Not much tension but when I wound the engine round clockwise all the marks lined up just where they should . With the crank pin in and the cam gear on it's mark I removed the old belt , going by the " Trailerfitter's video on Youtube I should then have been able to loosen the three bolts on the front of the injection pump pulley and wiggle it about so the pin would fit . So I tried that but still would not go in . Pushed a bit harder and TWANG ! the buckin' thing jumped over to the 9 o'clock position ... pulled it back this way and that but still that pin will not go in ,,, so that's where I'm at . Any other ideas as to what's happening here ?

Tank
16th December 2015, 11:27 AM
What are you using for a "pin"?
If it is a drill bit I assuming you have made sure the part to be inserted is free of burrs and bends.
I used a 3/8" drill bit shank with no problems, only reason was I didn't have a good 10mm one.
Is it an Auto or Manual?
Might sound silly but check the keyway in the crank snout is at 12 o'clock, good luck, Regards Frank.

Tank
16th December 2015, 11:42 AM
Just like to confirm that the hole in the outer plate has a "U" shaped cut-out and is at the 11 o'clock position, Regards Frank.

dogdog1
16th December 2015, 09:41 PM
Frank , timing pin is a 9.5 timing pin , manual , everything is aligned , crank at 12 , nothing bent or burred , just won't go in .

jboot51
17th December 2015, 05:29 AM
With the belt removed, completely remove the 3 bolts that hold the injector pump pulley and then remove the pulley itself.
This will give you access to the drive sprocket so you can see what is going on.
When you reinstall the belt make sure that the injector pump pulley is turned clockwise before offering up the belt.

dogdog1
17th December 2015, 09:01 AM
Good idea jboot , I'll try that tomorrow .

dogdog1
19th December 2015, 03:41 AM
So now I know why my pin won't fit in the hole . Took the pulley off to get a better look but there's no damage or obstruction .The hole is just too small . I measured the pin and it's exactly 9.5 mm so the hole must be just a shade less . Nevertheless I was able to insert the pin part of the way and then using Land Rover special tool BFH tapped it gently in a little more till it sat nice and square with no play at the gear . I'll have to use a vice grips to remove it when the belt is done but I have the pump where it's supposed to be and that's all I want .

Blknight.aus
19th December 2015, 08:49 AM
BFH? is that the UK part listing for the Aussie FBH?

good to see the solution is the same world over for some things.

The last thing I was going to suggest is check that the IP is correctly phased and that it hasnt had the pully boss installed out of sequence and is thus 90,180 or 270 out.

Ive mentioned it now just in case someone comes up against the "injector pump acess and pin hole dont line up. I havent seen it on a landrover tdi yst but I've seen it on a VW motor with the same pump. The owners solution was to bend the injector pipes rather than retime the engine.

dogdog1
19th December 2015, 09:26 AM
Yes , that's the same part alright ! Re the phasing of the pump , I don't think that will be an issue as it starts and runs so well . Thanks for all the advice guys .