Hitch advice

[Chops]

Hi guys,
Just wondering what hitches you use, and why you chose yours. I understand we "get what we get when we buy", but that doesn't mean it can't be changed because of preference.
I have on my camper a Block type, name eludes me just now,, well it's late, and I've had a big day :p

So research leads me to two choices predominantly.

McHitch Trailer Couplings (http://www.mchitch.com.au/)
And
HITCHMASTER? DO35 V2-I DROP ON COUPLING (http://www.vehiclecomponents.com.au/hitches-couplings/hitchmaster-do35-v21-trailer-coupling-1)

Now, I quite like the "Mchitch" unit, as for where I have to park my trailer, I have little room to get in and out of the car to line things up and hook up, so this unit you just back up, to close proximity and it locks up to the drawbar and you can then just drive out, then latch it up properly,,, all on my little lonesome. A big bonus for me. :D
The DO35, one still has to get out of the car to hook it up.
It's not stored on concrete, so manoeuvring can be a pain to line it up.

So, check them out and tell me what you think of both of these. They are both "up" there on price, but I want the block unit I have replaced. It's a real pain in the arse on a couple of levels.

Cheers for your advice in advance guys.

[4runnernomore]

Oz Hitch

https://www.ozhitch.com/

[alien]

I've just bought a DO35 V2 hitch , it's on the list for fitting today.
It's getting a good wrap from those who have them and are now suppied standard by quite a few van/camper manufacturers.
Individual parts are available for it so that is a bonus.


My current hitch is the AT35, https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/proxy/67hP6FgcXf3i7eHnQ-LUOe3iB_wZwRTFkpXIvmKdSekdcM1SlVNNq4N1VXDx9TPYSns1 6ucn_x0xMoXQ3wrKCyvoHc-7p_DT4_EaW2q4HFgMphCzwozgeDzb5Z78=w400-h300-nc
The pin is vertical and on uneven ground can take a little effort to hook up.
On level ground it's a one person job with a bit of draw bar wabbiling.
The Ozhitch looks the same, be it with a horizontal pin but I've not experienced it in person.
I think Redback has got a McHitch, he may be able to supply feed back now they have had a few trips with it.

Which ever way you go double check the bolt pattern before you purchase.
Being a new trailer it should be a standard thing but you never do know.

[PhilipA]

I have the older vertical version of the Mchitch and see no reason to changes to the new horizontal version.
Hitching the vertical version is just like hitching a ball, plus adding t he pin and screwing down the top lock.
If you have thee horizontal version you would need to b sure that the height of the trailer was correct. This is no good to me as I wind up the leg so that water will run off. In any case I think you would have to get out to set the height.

Of course there is more room for sideways error with the horizontal version.


But the concept of the Mchitch is good and I have been aroundOz with one, the only problem being that a bunch of clowns in Kunnunurra stripped the thread on my ball when towing my trailer , and I had to wait a while for a new one. I now carry a spare.
Regards Philip A

[rangieman]

Marcus you are such a tight arse :p
We have spoken about this lots .
Honestly stop by and ill explain and show you the Do35 in real life hell ill even hook it up if you want to realy see it in action;)
I do understand this means physical exercise by getting out of your car.
Or is all this to help your post count:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

I do understand this means physical exercise by geeting out of your car.
I think you have put the lunette in the pintle there.

[Chops]

I have nothing to say to you two :p

Thanks for the info you other chaps :D



(And the post count goes up by 1 more :angel: ) :wasntme:

[gavinwibrow]

Another worthy of consideration - going on my 3.5T van
Hyland Coupling see Home (http://www.hylandtrailercouplings.com.au/)
Happy travelling

[alien]

Another worthy of consideration - going on my 3.5T van
Hyland Coupling see Home (http://www.hylandtrailercouplings.com.au/)
Happy travelling

This hitch is popular with the "once in a blue moon" caravaner as it uses the 50mm tow ball.
You know them, van sits in the drive for months on end and usually does the 3 week new year trip to some caravan park ;)
Most of their towing is to the tip with a 6X4 and they don't want to change the hitch between the two trailers.
The big thing is to keep the screw adjustment on to the ball right so you don't get sloop and risk it jumping off.

[Chops]

Interesting boys.
One of the "bad" possibilities pointed out to me (by Chris,,, ever the pessimist ;)) was the fact that the as the Mchitch "uni" wears, it will want to fall down, thus making line up and click in probably rather difficult. I have to agree with this, but I did wonder if the uni could be tightened occasionally making it stiffer. The other option is of course to use a bit of wire or something to hold it up maybe.

[alien]

Interesting boys.
One of the "bad" possibilities pointed out to me (by Chris,,, ever the pessimist ;)) was the fact that the as the Mchitch "uni" wears, it will want to fall down, thus making line up and click in probably rather difficult. I have to agree with this, but I did wonder if the uni could be tightened occasionally making it stiffer. The other option is of course to use a bit of wire or something to hold it up maybe.
Sounds like Chris is repeating our conversation:p
If your going to put a bit of wire in the McHitch why not do the same to the Treg you have now;)


We just tried hooking up with the DO35 and it's so simple even SHMBO said she will do the van end now.
All that is left now is to put a bit of grease in it and Summer Wombat here we come:D

[Pedro_The_Swift]

This hitch is popular with the "once in a blue moon" caravaner as it uses the 50mm tow ball.


maybe,,
Hyland Hitch test (http://www.outbacktravelaustralia.com.au/driving-towing-towing/hyland-hitch-test)

[rangieman]

Sounds like Chris is repeating our conversation:p
If your going to put a bit of wire in the McHitch why not do the same to the Treg you have now;)


We just tried hooking up with the DO35 and it's so simple even SHMBO said she will do the van end now.
All that is left now is to put a bit of grease in it and Summer Wombat here we come:D

Gotta worry about the boy Kyle me thinks he should have his hearing tested as it sure does`nt sink in:angel:

[Chops]

Kyle, the Tregs may be considered a good hitch, but mine jams and squeaks. Poorly made maybe :confused:. I had to belt the pin out with a hammer at Melrose,,, something's not lined up right.

Although I guess they could be found at the right price, the DO35 is actually a bit more expensive than the McHitch too at first glance.

[DiscoKym]

I use the TREG hitch on both my trailers. I did away with the 50mm ball because I hate the way they rattle and bang.. I had an X-Trail then a Pathfinder, both monocoque construction so all the noise comes through to the cab..

Never had a problem with it. Well I did have ONE problem, after the Birdsville trip the padlock I used on the pin filled with dust and was seized. Angle grinder fixed it. I have gone back to the clip.

Also found the angle of movement great in the Vic high country.

I would recommend them and Adelaide Made. :)

[Homestar]

Been looking at the McHitch myself, but the drop on version that can directly replace my over ride system.

[PhilipA]

My mc hitch has been around oz and the Uni is still tight.
You should grease the Uni occasionally and the grease makes it tight enough that it doesn't fall down.

Mine is the drop down version.
Mchitch offered me a good deal to convert to the back into version but I really cannot see much advantage over the drop on, and I had a question over the height.

Regards Philip A

[roverrescue]

Standard 50mm ball coupling... Between three trailers have done every track and trail on the cape... Sometimes there are solutions to problems that are not real ????

Caveat ... This is on boat trailers which generally run longer distances between hitch and axle but meh

Steve

[Tombie]

We have the McHitch with the Treg adapter :cool:

McHitch Trailer Couplings (http://www.mchitch.com.au/#!product/prd1/3904050171/adaptor-coupling-for-treg-and-trigg)

Makes hooking up easy!

[Warb]

We put an Oz Hitch on the camper trailer, it has performed well and is easy to hook up - you lower the jockey wheel to drop it in to the "slot", then raise it a fraction to insert the pin. It has been all over the NT and WA, on-road, off-road and has not let us down. It is simple, with no tiny springs or other mechanisms to fill with dirt or break. Maintenance comprises of a grease nipple or two. I highly recommend it.

I have a Treg hitch on a farm spray rig. It is not as easy to hook up (not self aligning) but is also simple and strong. After a few years, however, the polymer block has hardened and gone "warty" from UV exposure, which is ugly but doesn't impact the use.

If you are considering off road and remote area use, the main considerations whilst in use are strength and articulation. However if the entire unit is rendered inoperable because a security lock has filled with dust (and the same applies to wheel locks etc.), or some tiny clip has gone ping, then you could be stranded.......

It's a few years since I went through the selection process, but from memory:

The Oz Hitch has nylon bushings. If they fail (?) the hitch will rattle but still work. If, and I can't imagine how it would happen, the one of the pivot pins on the Oz Hitch should break, it could be replaced with any bolt or agricultural linkage pin of suitable size, bent steel pipe or anything that fits in the hole to get you back to safety. If, for example, the needle roller bearings on the McHitch fail then the linkage falls apart and your only option is to abandon the trailer. If the driver has a "moment" when hitching up, misjudges things and bends/snaps that little locking nipple on the top of the HitchMaster, the entire hitch is rendered inoperable.

So I chose the Oz Hitch. Less high-tech, less "cool", but less likely to leave me stranded.

[ADMIRAL]

We put an Oz Hitch on the camper trailer, it has performed well and is easy to hook up - you lower the jockey wheel to drop it in to the "slot", then raise it a fraction to insert the pin. It has been all over the NT and WA, on-road, off-road and has not let us down. It is simple, with no tiny springs or other mechanisms to fill with dirt or break. Maintenance comprises of a grease nipple or two. I highly recommend it.

I have a Treg hitch on a farm spray rig. It is not as easy to hook up (not self aligning) but is also simple and strong. After a few years, however, the polymer block has hardened and gone "warty" from UV exposure, which is ugly but doesn't impact the use.

If you are considering off road and remote area use, the main considerations whilst in use are strength and articulation. However if the entire unit is rendered inoperable because a security lock has filled with dust (and the same applies to wheel locks etc.), or some tiny clip has gone ping, then you could be stranded.......

It's a few years since I went through the selection process, but from memory:

The Oz Hitch has nylon bushings. If they fail (?) the hitch will rattle but still work. If, and I can't imagine how it would happen, the one of the pivot pins on the Oz Hitch should break, it could be replaced with any bolt or agricultural linkage pin of suitable size, bent steel pipe or anything that fits in the hole to get you back to safety. If, for example, the needle roller bearings on the McHitch fail then the linkage falls apart and your only option is to abandon the trailer. If the driver has a "moment" when hitching up, misjudges things and bends/snaps that little locking nipple on the top of the HitchMaster, the entire hitch is rendered inoperable.

So I chose the Oz Hitch. Less high-tech, less "cool", but less likely to leave me stranded.
The 'pin' on top actuates the drop bar. Even if your were 'clod ' enough to break it off, and that would take some doing, the main locking pin ( for the transverse hole in the pic ) would hold the hitch coupling in place. I understand the uni is off a 7 tonne Toyota truck. Durable enough for me.

103432

[justinc]

AT35 was our first offroad hitch and found it way easier than a treg block type for instance. Now have a DO35 and is way better/easier again.

Jc

[Warb]

The 'pin' on top actuates the drop bar. Even if your were 'clod ' enough to break it off, and that would take some doing, the main locking pin ( for the transverse hole in the pic ) would hold the hitch coupling in place. I understand the uni is off a 7 tonne Toyota truck. Durable enough for me.

103432

Your picture shows a McHitch "automatic", not the HitchMaster with the retaining nipple that I was talking about.

I have never actually seen the "automatic" version of the McHitch, so I cannot comment on it generally. I do not know the original use of that particular needle roller u/j unit, but my experience of them is that they are normally used to transmit rotational drive at limited angles. They do that very well (many years ago we used them in grass-track racing Mini's), though the loading is limited to the force that can be produced by "dropping the clutch". How that relates to a 2 tonne trailer in push/pull I cannot say. However when they start to wear/fail they go from minor issue to major failure quite quickly - that is in "rotational" use, I imagine they behave the same way in a "push/pull" environment. Some needle roller u/j's are basically disposable items in there entirety, but I suspect the McHitch may have screw caps to allow bearing replacement? If that is the case, and the job does not require a shop-press (bets?), then carrying a spare set of bearings probably solves the problem.

I still think that needle rollers are a sledgehammer to crack a nut, adding complexity to what effect?

A well adjusted and greased 50mm ball hitch does not rattle or bang, and so is perfectly suited for on-road towing. It does lack some articulation, so that - and possibly some extra load capacity - is really all that needs to be added for off-road use. The Oz Hitch, with crossed pins using greased nylon bushes and (as with all these u/j style hitches) a rotating shaft, adds articulation in the simplest possible manner.

Don't get me wrong, all these hitches will do the job and I would bet that nobody could tell, from the drivers seat, which one was fitted!

A couple of quick questions, if you have time. I have, as I said, never seen the McHitch automatic. It would appear from the pictures that the "tongue" would hang down on the u/j when not hitched. In the video on their web site, they have what looks like a removable plastic mechanism to hold the tongue level and straight. If that is so, how do you hitch it up when you are at an angle (both horizontally and vertically) to the trailer? And is the speed of the system not lost when you have to stop 4" away from hitch engagement to adjust the height of the hitch because you've changed the loading of the car or adjusted the height of the jockey wheel to level the trailer/caravan?

[Homestar]

I know the design has changed since this happened - OZ Hitch failure. (http://www.myswag.org/index.php'topic=38029.0) - but it kind of leaves you doubting it a bit in my mind. They look like a PITA to connect as well - something that is echoed on other forums from users of it.

The McHitch parts are forged one piece items and I like the ease of connection too.

I know where my money will be going.

[Warb]

I honestly don't know if the design has changed, but equally I don't know the true conditions under which that happened. We have all seen trailers/caravans that have been so poorly loaded that there is about 700kg downforce on the hitch, and we've all seen people who reverse and jack-knife the trailer. I know people who can in minutes destroy things that I've been using for years! I find it hard to get excited about a breakage
without genuinely knowing whether it was a design/material/construction failure or abuse - and people will rarely admit they abused it, even if they actually make the mental connection between a brutal jack-knife and a failure possibly 1000's of kms and weeks later.

The construction of this part is much the same in the Oz Hitch and the Hitchmaster. The McHitch uses what looks like a forged driveshaft, and so should be stronger. However the increased number of "moving parts" and relative complexity of the McHitch create their own issues!

As for ease of hitching, I know exactly why people complain - it's because they haven't read the instructions! The process is that you position the receiver somewhere under the hitch. Then use your knee to adjust the trailer left/right as required, and lower the hitch on to the receiver which then self aligns in a slot. This results in the hitch resting at the base of the slot (by design), which is below the final position. Now you need to lift the trailer, with the jockey wheel, a couple of mm or so to allow the pin to be inserted. If you do this, the process is easy. If you don't, then you are trying to use the taper of the pin to physically lift the trailer.

One thing that did occur to me is that with all the drop-on style of hitches it is easy to level the trailer. We can release the hitch and raise the nose of the trailer without moving the vehicle. Re-hitching, presuming the vehicle hasn't been moved, is simply a case of lowering the trailer. This would appear to be impossible with the "automatic" McHitch (and certainly the Treg), where the vehicle must be moved forward before the nose of the trailer can be raised. For our typical use (nightly stops with no vehicle use) having to move the vehicle to level the trailer would be an unnecessary overhead, though for a caravan park where the tow vehicle must be moved and parked separately, or for longer stays it wouldn't make any difference. Horses for courses!

All these hitches can be destroyed under the right (wrong?) conditions, and all have advantages and disadvantages. The McHitch and Hitchmaster are certainly far flashier looking than the Treg, OzHitch or 50mm ball. Like I said, it's personal choice. I'm simply outlining the process I went through when deciding on a hitch for my camper.

[Homestar]

As was I :). The design has changed - the rod is now threaded and screwed into position before welding. Ozhitch have been very good about this whole situation - offering anyone who has one of the original designs, a new one at no cost. These were also the new owners of the company as well aparently so they walked right into the **** storm and sorted it, so cudos on them for this.

There after sales service is obviously first rate.

The story about this failure was that a WDH was being used and the vehicle was executing a u turn when it happened.

[Warb]

The story about this failure was that a WDH was being used and the vehicle was executing a u turn when it happened.

Seems odd to being using a weight distributing system with a high articulation hitch, don't you think?

WDH's act like a big lever, using the hitch as a fulcrum to try and straighten the link between the trailer and vehicle - "levering" the back of the towing vehicle upwards and therefore the front of the towing vehicle downwards. Unfortunately this actually increases the downward force on the hitch itself, a situation which becomes worse as the vertical angle between the vehicle and the trailer increases - as happens with abrupt changes in slope off-road as the vehicle levels out at the bottom of a steep hill when the trailer is still on the slope.

Of course the worst case is when people overload (vertically) the hitch with too much nose weight in the trailer, overload the back of the tow vehicle with luggage, and then use a WD system to attempt to crank the front of the tow vehicle back down to the road. Oh, and then go off-roading!

And "U turn"? Or 3 point turn with a jack-knife?

I suspect that a fair amount of abuse, stupidity and overloading went in to creating that failure!! But this is the internet, so we never let the truth get in the way of a good story!!

It must be galling for the manufacturers of a product to see their good name being trashed because someone abused a product and then posted pictures of the "failure".

[Homestar]

Not sure what else went on, that was Ozhitches official response to the issue. Just one line, but I suspect you're right about the failure being caused by things other than normal use - if you look at the pictures, you can see about 5 shackles being used as a chain - who ever is the brainiac behind this vehicle clearly is no engineer. :D

EDIT - this is the exact quote from Ozhitch - "we believe the problem has occurred in the use of a weight distribution system when doing a U turn"

Despite what you may think, I'm not having a go at Ozhitch directly here - everything I've posted is in the public arena and acknowledged by the manufacturer themselves, who (as I mentioned before) were very pro active in how they dealt with this and I applaud their after sales service.

As you have said yourself, you were just posting things that swayed your decision to buy one. I'm just posting mine as well. The design has changed, and although I'm sure they are a lot stronger now, the Mchitch has forged parts, not welded parts. That and the ease of connection (also as mentioned, im going for the drop over hitch, not the auto hitch). :)

Sorry if I came across as just bagging them out for the sake of it - I was more pointing out the method of construction. I've actually said some nice things about them if you look at my posts.

[ADMIRAL]

Your picture shows a McHitch "automatic", not the HitchMaster with the retaining nipple that I was talking about.

I have never actually seen the "automatic" version of the McHitch, so I cannot comment on it generally. I do not know the original use of that particular needle roller u/j unit, but my experience of them is that they are normally used to transmit rotational drive at limited angles. They do that very well (many years ago we used them in grass-track racing Mini's), though the loading is limited to the force that can be produced by "dropping the clutch". How that relates to a 2 tonne trailer in push/pull I cannot say. However when they start to wear/fail they go from minor issue to major failure quite quickly - that is in "rotational" use, I imagine they behave the same way in a "push/pull" environment. Some needle roller u/j's are basically disposable items in there entirety, but I suspect the McHitch may have screw caps to allow bearing replacement? If that is the case, and the job does not require a shop-press (bets?), then carrying a spare set of bearings probably solves the problem.

I still think that needle rollers are a sledgehammer to crack a nut, adding complexity to what effect?

A well adjusted and greased 50mm ball hitch does not rattle or bang, and so is perfectly suited for on-road towing. It does lack some articulation, so that - and possibly some extra load capacity - is really all that needs to be added for off-road use. The Oz Hitch, with crossed pins using greased nylon bushes and (as with all these u/j style hitches) a rotating shaft, adds articulation in the simplest possible manner.

Don't get me wrong, all these hitches will do the job and I would bet that nobody could tell, from the drivers seat, which one was fitted!

A couple of quick questions, if you have time. I have, as I said, never seen the McHitch automatic. It would appear from the pictures that the "tongue" would hang down on the u/j when not hitched. In the video on their web site, they have what looks like a removable plastic mechanism to hold the tongue level and straight. If that is so, how do you hitch it up when you are at an angle (both horizontally and vertically) to the trailer? And is the speed of the system not lost when you have to stop 4" away from hitch engagement to adjust the height of the hitch because you've changed the loading of the car or adjusted the height of the jockey wheel to level the trailer/caravan?

Hi Warb,

First off, I use a rotating hitch as much for the fact that it will rotate if the van tipped over, as for off road flexibility. I am not sure it would stop the vehicle being rolled if the van went, but it makes me feel better.
The only plastic I can recall on the auto coupler video, is a marker for use with a reversing camera. The uni has to be pushed down quite firmly. I store mine this way. There has been comment that as the uni wore, it would get sloppy and fall down. They can be adjusted and greased. Only time will tell if this is to become an issue.

I tried marking the jockey wheel to get the exact height, but even that doesn't work perfectly. I give the other half a portable UHF, and have her stop me when the coupler and tongue get close. If there is an adjustment required, a quick wind on the jockey wheel fixes it. In my experience so far, the coupler opening and tongue do not have to be perfectly aligned, either side to side or vertically. As the tongue is tapered, it soon centre's itself. I haven't used the D4 remote height adjustment as yet, but that is always an option.

It's not so much the speed as the ease of hitching up that sold me on this coupler, and it has been true to that so far. ( once you get the idea though it is pretty quick ) No more stuffing around trying to line up a ball or pin without marking up the bumper panel. Once the coupler and tongue are lined up, it is just reverse up until the clunk. The rear drop bar comes down when the tongue is properly in. Slide the safety pin in, and your are away.

[ADMIRAL]

The Weight Distribution System ( WDH ) is essentially an anti articulation device. They can be adapted to virtually any hitch on the market, including the McHitch, Treg and AT series. Their use should be restricted to flat towing. ie. blacktop or smooth gravel The bars can be disengaged for off road use, and should be removed for reversing, particularly if reversing up a kerb.( or driveway ) The most common failure I see, is destruction of the A frame chain tensioners, from reversing with the hitch bars engaged and tensioned up. Fortunately the speed is normally down for this type of incident, and that keeps the damage bill low for most people

Common sense fly's out the window, when some people get behind the wheel.

[Chops]

Well, with all the great info you guys are supplying,,, Thanks boys,, I still don't know which I will choose yet, but the DO35's looking good,, (as is still the McHitch ;))
But one thing I do know is this, having just spent 15 minute's getting in and out of the car to hook up the Treg in this heat,,,, it's going!! :mad:

Now for the 4+ hour drive to Albury :(
Hellooooo Christmas :angel:

[Warb]

The Weight Distribution System ( WDH ) is essentially an anti articulation device.

It works simply as a sprung lever connecting a point in front of the hitch with a point behind the hitch. As you say, it resists further downward articulation of the hitch. Unfortunately most people seem to use them as a means to prevent the rear of an overloaded vehicle sagging under the weight of a nose heavy trailer/caravan. Easy to do, just chain 'em up whilst the caravan is jacked up high on the jockey wheel and when you lower the jockey wheel the car doesn't sag. The result is that the entire tow bar system is overloaded, and as the fulcrum of the lever the hitch itself carries all the extra compression of the system. But the vehicle is no longer scraping it's rear on the ground, so the owner is happy. Until something breaks!


Common sense fly's out the window, when some people get behind the wheel.

Very true. I live in a rural area frequented by "grey nomads" - don't get me started!


Despite what you may think, I'm not having a go at Ozhitch directly here - everything I've posted is in the public arena and acknowledged by the manufacturer themselves, who (as I mentioned before) were very pro active in how they dealt with this and I applaud their after sales service.

I actually never thought anything different!

But I do find it sad that the internet allows an idiot (and when I said this earlier I wasn't referring to you, but to the guy who originally posted the pictures) to abuse a product to destruction and then publicly trash it. The "power of the internet", together with the willingness of people to avoid any kind of reasoned analysis and simply repeat the trashing, means that there is little recourse for the "trashee", and in any case what company would choose to stand up and say "he's a moron"? This kind of thing can kill a small company, when they have in all likelihood done nothing wrong. So what you are seeing from Oz Hitch is basically the only thing they can do to try to stay alive. And for the rest of time, or until all the posts about it are deleted, anyone researching hitches will find those pictures and...? The same applies to the posts from people who haven't read the instructions yet say that the hitch is hard to connect.

[Warb]

Well, with all the great info you guys are supplying,,, Thanks boys,, I still don't know which I will choose yet, but the DO35's looking good,

As you will have gathered, I use an Oz Hitch coupling but I did build my camper trailer on Cruisemaster suspension which, like the DO35, is from Vehicle Components. I was very pleased with both the suspension and the service from VC, so I can recommend the company!

[harry]

I have no experience with the systems mostly mentioned here, but do have and recommend the Hyland hitch as a very good fully articulated hitch with no difficult hitching up and if your vehicle needs a day off, as land rovers occasionally do, your mate or the tow truck can tow the trailer on his standard 50mm ball.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Its an interesting point you make Harry,,
if your rock solid LR dies,,
and they have been known to do that on occasion,,
and you are covered by RACQ-V-SA-WA-NT,,

will the towy in uppercumbuctawest be able to tow your
Mc-hitched trailer?

[Chops]

A valid point indeed, but one would assume that he would at least have a spanner on hand to change tow hitches over. So take his off the truck and replace it with yours off the LR. ;)
Realistically it shouldn't matter what you were towing with, I guess even if you had a ring feeder type.

[PhilipA]

will the towy in uppercumbuctawest be able to tow your
Mc-hitched trailer?
I have to admit that this is a good point .
My D2 fuel manifold sprung a leak at El Questro while I was towing my camper trailer.
The local Kununurra contractor to NRMA had a truck but no 2 inch receiver , but had a 4 inch receiver which was beat up dented etc.

They managed to completely strip the thread on the Mc Hitch "cone" and also broke the bolt off in the top.
This was pretty good going.
It took a week to get the new "cone" after I contacted Mc Hitch who were very helpful.
I now carry a spare as they are pretty cheap.

Regards Philip A

[DoubleChevron]

How do you guys find the hitch receivers on your cars.... I've noticed the slop in the receiver .... maybe 1/2mm becomes 3->4mm by the time you add a long tongue. They also rattle like buggery. I reckon the tongue being able to be moved a few millimeters in any direction effects stability of the caravan too.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105395&stc=1&d=1454755535

Eg: this tongue I can move around a couple of millimeters in any direction. My brothers modern pajero I can hear the tongue rattling around in when it's just sitting there idling (he has the bolt on the bottom of it done up so tight it's now stripped. Stupidly the anti-rattle bolts in forward of the pin so will carry the tongue weight when the Pajero is towing, it also won't stop side to side movement as it's only pushing the front of the tongue up.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105396&stc=1&d=1454755535

To get around this with a grinder disc in a 4" grinder I notched the old Range rovers receiver deeply, and then drilled it through. I welded a sleeve nut above this, and screwed a bolt into it with a big washer welded to it's head so I don't need to carry spanners.

Now because this touches the very back edge of where the tongue slides into the receiver, it wedges the thing upto into the top back corner of the receiver. so carries no weight, yet locks it in super tight. Being on the corner it stops both side to side and up 'n' down movement. Why don't all receivers have something like this :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Chops]

Hi Shane,
I've seen this on hitches before, and even seen them with two bolts on the edge of them, one near the front and one near the rear. They were however on the top corners, not so much underneath. This would help hold it down when there is already weight on it. It would only be an issue on an up cycle, so I'm guessing the bolts would hold it down better than up maybe (??).
On one I had, I placed a shim (a section of tin can) in the hitch to quieten it down a bit. It was a bike rack which could be swivelled down,, a total pain in the butt due to its bad fitment.
Thanks for your suggestion, info and pics, good to see.

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Shane,
I've seen this on hitches before, and even seen them with two bolts on the edge of them, one near the front and one near the rear. They were however on the top corners, not so much underneath. This would help hold it down when there is already weight on it. It would only be an issue on an up cycle, so I'm guessing the bolts would hold it down better than up maybe (??).
On one I had, I placed a shim (a section of tin can) in the hitch to quieten it down a bit. It was a bike rack which could be swivelled down,, a total pain in the butt due to its bad fitment.
Thanks for your suggestion, info and pics, good to see.

Everything I do is dodgy and cheap :) The reason I cut a slot with a grinder first, is you won't be able to drill a hole into the edge ... where it needs to be, The grinder makes a flat for the drill to work on :)

[alien]

I fitted a bolt to my factory setup on one of my tow ponies.
Foward of the pin so it pushes up holding the ball end down.
I only use it in limited situations as I'm regularly swaping the tounge and tow receiver.
1 use for the bolt is our dog trailer.
The ball wieght is @30kg and it rattles, I'm going to re-chassis it moving the axle to the rear.
The only other time I bolt it tight is when on longer off road trips.
This is only to stop any movment as the hitch wieght changes over conservation mounds or cresting sand dunes etc..


Back the Op's post...
As I've said we swaped to a DO35.
I've used it on 2 trips and it did all it was supposed to testing it at the river crossing at the potato patch.
I've moved the van a couple of times at home and it is sooo easy to hook up.
Only down side is the plastic cord to save the cover if it falls off looks weak.
I may upgrade it to a steel one(fishing trace or 4mm electric wire).

[Pedro_The_Swift]

How do you guys find the hitch receivers on your cars.... I've noticed the slop in the receiver .... maybe 1/2mm becomes 3->4mm by the time you add a long tongue. They also rattle like buggery. I reckon the tongue being able to be moved a few millimeters in any direction effects stability of the caravan too.
seeya,
Shane L.

My opinion is the height of your tyre sidewall is much more likely to induce movement. especially those huge offroad tyres fitted to vans these days. Those sidewall will flex inches! (and that just at the axle, add 3M and work out the movement at the tail!:o)

[Homestar]

The hitch on my new work ute now has a piece of thin flat metal on 2 sides riveted to it to help stop the slop. Seems to work ok - I've towed the van around 600KM with it and it isn't noisy at all. It's like a more refined version of what Chops did with his.

[TerryO]

If we decide to keep our van I will be swapping the Treg hitch for one of the new horizontal McHitchs. I know several people who have swapped over to them and they all think they are the best thing since sliced bread.

Mind you the McHitch / Treg conversion unit Tombie has shown in post #19 is a very affordable compromise worth considering.

[Chops]

Yeah, the DO35's looking good at the moment, but that's only because I haven't seen the other up close and personal yet. If I manage to find one in use, I may yet choose the McHitch.

[TerryO]

Did you check out the McHitch conversion for a Treg that Tombie put an attachment up for Marcus?

[Chops]

Yeah I did Terry, but as before, I'd like to see it in the flesh.

I've been rather busy with family issues the last two months or so, so haven't been able to get out and about as such. Things are back to normal now, so hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can chase up where to get a gander at them.