2014 Defender Rover Diffs

[Rickoz]

G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too ;)

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion :) Regards.

[PAT303]

What mods you need comes down to want type of person you are,99% of people go through their whole life driving the interior not needing anything more than axle flanges and extra fuel capacity,the other 1% can't drive around the block without blowing a diff,I'm the former and I have a good mate who is the later.Common sense will get you further than pegged diff's and 35'' tyres. Pat

[tact]

What PAT303 says, plus a question: What are you going to be asking of your 2014 Defender?

Just a daily driver around town? Occasional runs up the highway for chrissy holidays? Hard core trails? Just a little dirt road touring? Or a lot? Prep for the zombie apocalypse?

[Rickoz]

What PAT303 says, plus a question:
What are you going to be asking of your 2014 Defender?
Just a daily driver around town?
Occasional runs up the highway for chrissy holidays?
Hard core trails? Just a little dirt road touring? Or a lot?
Prep for the zombie apocalypse?
tact. Usage on 4WD parks, free parks & tracks that see the use of full articulation & more so hard tracks ATM so with loss of forward momentum at times is seeing the need for at least a rear Diff Lock in the future.
My driving style is slow & steady rather than a bull at a gate (not right foot heavy).
I guess the plan for trips away is a given too so larger trips.
Zombie Prep'er i'm not ;)



G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion Regards.

[alien]

I've recently looked at what the difference is between standard and heavy duty factory suspension.
From what I could find...
Same main differential housings,
Same swivel housings,
Same stub axles,
I need to check the numbers for the crown wheel and pinion but suspect they are the same too,
Same axles, flanges, wheel bearings,
Different carrier-2 pin Std>4 pin HD
Heavy duty also has a strengthening gusset on the chassis.
The also ran heavier springs and steel rims.


I'm gearing for dirt/remote touring towing with playing ability as it suits, so here is the aim...
For me I'm going to loose the 2 pin carrier and go to ATB's as the budget allows.
I'll keep the original axles and drive flanges as the ATB's are gentler on them than full lockers.
If I strip a drive flange it's an easy job tracks side, the aim is this will be the weak point.
I have retained the greased hubs and have converted to the 2 nut wheel bearing retainers instead of the 1 nut system.
I'm fitting a ATB to transfer box in January as I consider it also a weak spot.

[PAT303]

tact. Usage on 4WD parks, free parks & tracks that see the use of full articulation & more so hard tracks ATM so with loss of forward momentum at times is seeing the need for at least a rear Diff Lock in the future.
My driving style is slow & steady rather than a bull at a gate (not right foot heavy).
I guess the plan for trips away is a given too so larger trips.
Zombie Prep'er i'm not ;)




You already have traction control so a rear ATB is the go,quite a few have them and are very happy with them,best thing is they work on road just as well off,diff locks are off road only. Pat

[Rickoz]

You already have traction control so a rear ATB is the go,quite a few have them and are very happy with them,best thing is they work on road just as well off,diff locks are off road only. Pat
Thanks Pat after reading many Lockers Vs other options just like this one http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/228730-locker-vs-lsd-front.html a locker is the only option if your lifting wheels off the ground, ta.



G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion Regards.

[POD]

To answer your question about pegging, it can be done to a standard diff. The part that gets turned off the diff is the outer part of the flange on which the crownwheel is mounted, reducing the diameter to just outside the crownwheel bolt circle. The bronze pad runs on the now-exposed back face of the crownwheel. So all this is outboard of the actual workings of the diff itself, thus doesn't matter what is in the diff centre.
I did my own when I installed an Ashcroft locker; I would not recommend doing it without the use of a milling machine to ensure accuracy.

[Rickoz]

To answer your question about pegging, it can be done to a standard diff. The part that gets turned off the diff is the outer part of the flange on which the crownwheel is mounted, reducing the diameter to just outside the crownwheel bolt circle. The bronze pad runs on the now-exposed back face of the crownwheel. So all this is outboard of the actual workings of the diff itself, thus doesn't matter what is in the diff centre.
I did my own when I installed an Ashcroft locker; I would not recommend doing it without the use of a milling machine to ensure accuracy.
:BigThumb:Thank you for that POD. My thoughts are Peg the front Differential and Diff Lock on the rear.


G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion Regards.

[justinc]

My experience with these has been that if there is no noises early on, like up to 30000 km or so then they generally last ok. Have 1 puma 130 that has done 240k now and finally needs a pinion seal. They may be a stupid idea but some of them do last ok !

[Rickoz]

My experience with these has been that if there is no noises early on, like up to 30000 km or so then they generally last ok. Have 1 puma 130 that has done 240k now and finally needs a pinion seal. They may be a stupid idea but some of them do last ok !
Thanks for that justinc I was under the impression Rover differentials were softer so to speak than say Patrol differentials & have heard that some Datsun drivers like to Pegg theirs to reduce a little movement in there. Again thanks for the advice.


G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion Regards.

[Rickoz]

I hope everyone had a good Christmas & New Years.
I'm sure most have now comeback from there festive breaks so i'm bringing this back to a larger refreshed audience.


G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too ;)

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion :) Regards.

[frantic]

I hope everyone had a good Christmas & New Years.
I'm sure most have now comeback from there festive breaks so i'm bringing this back to a larger refreshed audience.



If you have the centre transfer case locked its 50:50 power front to rear , lock the rear( ARB ,Harrow, detroit ,kam, ashcroft, etc) and both wheels turn at exactly the same speed, so if your going up a reasonably steep hill with both middle and rear locked, then one rear wheel gets air or looses traction, a vast majority of the defenders weight is being pushed or carried by that one wheel. Now with the 235 standard tyres it might break traction before it snaps the axle, but with larger tyres it could snap. The other thing is if the standard wheel breaks traction, you will now possibly slide back and have the airborne wheel contact the ground, it spinning forwards , while your defenders going the opposite way. The axle will have a good chance of snapping in that situation.
Personally I am lucky enough to have the last of the Salisbury rear defs and have hytuff with a Detroit ( 255/85-r16)as I have seen others in various makes do exactly the above.

[bob10]

Being virtually clueless on this topic, I bow to the Land Rover gurus, Ashcroft. Lots of reading here.

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=8)

Diff "pegging".

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diff-pegging-.html)


Do it yourself.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/differential-rebuild-kits/diff-pegging-kit.html

[Rickoz]

If you have the centre transfer case locked its 50:50 power front to rear , lock the rear( ARB ,Harrow, detroit ,kam, ashcroft, etc) and both wheels turn at exactly the same speed, so if your going up a reasonably steep hill with both middle and rear locked, then one rear wheel gets air or looses traction, a vast majority of the defenders weight is being pushed or carried by that one wheel. Now with the 235 standard tyres it might break traction before it snaps the axle, but with larger tyres it could snap. The other thing is if the standard wheel breaks traction, you will now possibly slide back and have the airborne wheel contact the ground, it spinning forwards , while your defenders going the opposite way. The axle will have a good chance of snapping in that situation.
Personally I am lucky enough to have the last of the Salisbury rear defs and have hytuff with a Detroit ( 255/85-r16)as I have seen others in various makes do exactly the above.
Sound advice:BigThumb:

G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion Regards.

[ramblingboy42]

this looks weird to me....it appears to be a straight rack and not a crown gear.
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/images/cache/pegin1.580.jpg

[Rickoz]

More Questions:eek2:
Half Shafts: Is there any difference between Ahcroft or HiTough or are they made from same metals therefor same stretchiness/breaking-point?
Is there a problem using lets say Ascroft Shafts & HiTough Drive Flanges?
Spline count: On a STD 2014 Rover Diff what is the spline count is it the same as what Diff locks use (24) or less say (10):confused:


G'day AULROIANS since we are all sitting around this campfire thought i'd ask a few questions, I've done a little reading on here & some suppliers web pages on differential bits & pieces now i've confused myself even more than when I started.

Differential Pegging, can this be done to STD Rover differentials or only to Diff Locked differentials EG: Harrop/Eaton mainly.

What goodies are a must need to change a STD 2014 front Rover differential from a grease type to oil lubricated type.

Same question but for the 2014 Rover rear differential.

The front Rover differentials have more parts to it than the rear Rover differential (CV joints ect.) anyway, What is the spline count on a STD 2014 Rover differential for the front & rear half shafts or put another way differential internals and drive flanges.

From what i've read Harrop/Eaton Diff locks require 24 spline axels, and Ashcroft half shafts are 23 spline, have I maybe misread something. Is an axel a half shaft.

Is a stronger/stretchy half shaft a must requirement when using a front or rear Diff lock or just preferred incase of heavy right foot at times.

The same question for about HD flanges, must have or just nice incase not so skilled and heavy footed.

I'm sure i'v read here long ago someone on here doesn't use HD shafts and flanges with there Lockers but maybe I just didn't understand what I was reading way back then too

Thanks for helping clear up my confusion Regards.