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Kalbee118
16th December 2015, 11:31 AM
I had a Tekonsha P3 installed and working on my D3 but my wife got sick of bashing her knee on it when she was driving (short and gets up close to the steering wheel). I decided to install a Redarc Tow Pro V2 and it was a straight forward install/swap over, however, when I connect my van the remote head LED flashes green over the blue back ground LED. the trouble shooting guide suggests there is a fault on my red brake wire not going to 0V and 12V when brake applied. I have the diodes installed as per instructions, has anyone else experienced this issue? What was the fixed?

Cheers John

RobA
16th December 2015, 12:29 PM
First check to ensure you have it wired up per the diagram supplied. If OK then ring the very helpful RedArc helpline

Rob

disco4now
16th December 2015, 03:18 PM
when I connect my van the remote head LED flashes green over the blue back ground LED.
Cheers John

I see on page 8 of the manual it describes 'LED glowing green with blue flashes' to indicate it is not yet calibrated. If you have not taken it for a drive (even without the trailer) and applied the brakes a few times (up to 20 times it says) you may be still in this not calibrated mode.

PS. Looks like the Tow Pro Elite has Active Calibration which allows calibration without trailer attached.
The Tow Pro looks like it needs the trailer attached to calibrate, but flashes 75%/25% blue/green to indicate not calibrated.

Regards
Gerry

RobA
16th December 2015, 04:03 PM
I had naively assumed two things. First it is the new self calibrating Elite and secondly that if it is the EBRH-ACC you had calibrated it per the user manual on page 6 under calibration. For the EBRH-ACC there is an excellent video on the RedArc site as well as guidance for the Elite which in the user manual item 2.4 describes the process of active calibration. It means in both instances you have to drive the vehicle but with the Elite you don't need to hitch anything up

Rob

rar110
16th December 2015, 04:13 PM
I had a Tekonsha P3 installed and working on my D3 but my wife got sick of bashing her knee on it when she was driving (short and gets up close to the steering wheel). I decided to install a Redarc Tow Pro V2 and it was a straight forward install/swap over, however, when I connect my van the remote head LED flashes green over the blue back ground LED. the trouble shooting guide suggests there is a fault on my red brake wire not going to 0V and 12V when brake applied. I have the diodes installed as per instructions, has anyone else experienced this issue? What was the fixed? Cheers John

I have the same problem. Unit was installed by an auto lecky. If I set it at 2 it's ok. Any higher it goes red. I've recalibrated it numerous times with trailer attached incl with another lecky's assistance. No joy.

Kalbee118
16th December 2015, 06:47 PM
Hi All, Thanks for the tips. I re-read the trouble shooting section and I believe it is this issue "the LED is flashing GREEN at any time or only when not braking" Possible cause "Low continuous voltage on the brake light (RED) wire. I went out with my trusty multi-meter and sure enough I have 0.01V on the RED brake light wire AFTER the diode I installed! I have 0.0V on the original brake light wire in the vehicle. Have I used to big a diode to cause this problem?

Cheers John

LRD414
16th December 2015, 07:03 PM
Is the diode backwards and preventing power coming through ? If so the brake light on the trailer would not work either.

Unless you had the diode already with the old controller too.

Scott

Kalbee118
16th December 2015, 07:27 PM
Hi Scott,

Yes I had the diode in the system when I installed the Tekonsha P3 and it worked OK. I might try a lighter diode to see if that solves the problem.

Cheers John

Meken
16th December 2015, 08:32 PM
Did you put the diode "upstream" of the sensing wire connection?

LandyAndy
16th December 2015, 09:42 PM
Is the diode backwards and preventing power coming through ? If so the brake light on the trailer would not work either.

Unless you had the diode already with the old controller too.

Scott

There is no brake light activation with manually operated electric trailer brakes,the brake light only comes from the brake pedal.This has come up in the past.
Im yet to calibrate my Tow Pro,will be happening soon as Im towing the camper trailer for a fishing trip.
Andrew

LRD414
17th December 2015, 09:15 AM
....There is no brake light activation with manually operated electric trailer brakes,the brake light only comes from the brake pedal....
Andrew, the TowPro does activate the trailer brake light when manually operated if the diode is ftted upstream of the splice (CJB side of splice).
This was documented in the D3 thread on page 2, so easily missed if reading only D4 thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/51521-d3-electric-trailer-brake-wired-photo-2.html
See posts 11 (by amaruskanic) and 12 (by sniegy).

The diode needs to be upstream (CJB side) of the splice so that the TowPro manual override button illuminates the trailer brake lights.
The sketch below is for a D3 from the same thread and so the wire colour is different for the D4. (D3 green/purple = D4 red).

This arrangement will only turn on the trailer brake lights when the manual button is pressed. The vehicle lights operate based on the signal from brake light switch.

If the diode is not located upstream of the splice, the trailer lights will not illuminate when you press the manual button but the TowPro will still work.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-general-picture5197-diode-0002.jpg




This is why I wondered if John's (OP) diode was perhaps fitted backwards or in the wrong location, affecting his signal to TowPro.
But he's confirmed it was already fitted with his original EBC, so shouldn't be causing his current issue.

Cheers,
Scott

Kalbee118
17th December 2015, 10:08 AM
Having a think again about what I have done and the LED indications, then re-reading the active calibration, I think Rob may be on the right track. I had the Tow Pro installed for a few days and driving around BUT I don't think I have done enough of the "up to 20" braking applications. I'll drive around a bit more and then reconnect the van and see if there is any change.

Again thanks every who has given hints and tips on this issue.

Cheers and Merry Christmas

John

Graeme
17th December 2015, 12:27 PM
I have 0.01V on the RED brake light wire AFTER the diode I installed! I have 0.0V on the original brake light wire in the vehicle. Have I used to big a diode to cause this problem?The 0.01V will be coming from the Tow-Pro. Being 0V on the vehicle side shows that the diode is working correctly.

Graeme
17th December 2015, 12:33 PM
The diode needs to be upstream (CJB side) of the splice so that the TowPro manual override button illuminates the trailer brake lights.In this configuration the diode must be capable of handling the current draw of all stop lights including handling the generated heat if the stop lights are incandescent or fitted with load resistors and are on for an extended time.

LRD414
17th December 2015, 12:49 PM
Sniegy advised 3A diode.

Graeme
17th December 2015, 05:16 PM
If that was just for the sense wire for the controller that couldn't feed back to operate trailer stop lights then that is more than adequate. However 2 x 21W globes is 3.5A @ 12V, let alone 4 if fitted.