Just got a 2a, (yes another 2a purchase thread!)

[paulthepilot_5]

So I just got this 2a, plan to get it on the road asap and eventually restore to its military spec. Chassis number is 25306585b, engine number 25174069F.
Engine number matches up with ARN 113-144. The chassis number is not showing up on REMLR, but chassis number 25305685b does and matches the engine number, so thinking there might be a typo in the database.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/267.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsatqbs3ib.jpeg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/268.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsozwuk2o7.jpeg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/269.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zps6eh0etz6.jpeg.html)

[harry]

ooh, how many is that now/
interesting single piece windscreen, I think there is another one on here somewhere.

[paulthepilot_5]

So started giving the old girl a cleanup and service to start with. The engine ran with a a miss on one cylinder, the brakes didn't work either.

ripped all the floor panels and seat box out and started degreasing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/262.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsdb3jgcqx.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/263.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsidcsvdst.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/264.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsvnx8yliv.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/265.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsbqezf68l.jpeg.html)

Gave the engine a quick service, new plugs and leads. No.4 cylinder was low on compression, this was eliminated after adjusting the valve clearances no.4 was tight allowing valve leakage. Running like a sewing machine now :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/266.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsev1tku0s.jpeg.html)

[paulthepilot_5]

ooh, how many is that now/
interesting single piece windscreen, I think there is another one on here somewhere.

Yeah the single piece is odd, Center section has just been removed, not a big fan of it, will be returning it to a split windshield.

[harry]

they must have cut off the dividing strip and ground the weld back, yep, it doesn't look right, but a typical mod, I suppose, in the day, not my cup of tea.
a lot of checker plate, should get some scrap dollars for that also?

[paulthepilot_5]

they must have cut off the dividing strip and ground the weld back, yep, it doesn't look right, but a typical mod, I suppose, in the day, not my cup of tea.
a lot of checker plate, should get some scrap dollars for that also?

Yes also not a fan of the checker plate, will be getting rid of that.

[Aussie Bob]

Hey Paul, thanks for sharing. Got to admit, none of the mods are my idea of ideal either but it looks like a great rig. The gearbox has cleaned up beautifully. Please keep posting your progress.

[paulthepilot_5]

Took all the wheels and drums off to have a look at the brakes, all in good condition, just needed a clean. Put some decent rims an tires on it. Filled the brake clutch reservoir quick bleed and got a good brake pedal.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/256.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpslxjg8m8v.jpeg.html)

Took the (butchered) wagon/ute cab off, have a decent complete ute cab to throw on her

Put a bit of paint stripper on the tub to see what's underneath the current paint, a few nice layers of various army greens

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/257.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpseon8ohrg.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/258.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zps3iji6zre.jpeg.html)

Ended up biting the bullet and took it for a drive around the block, took it to the servo for some fuel. Everything seems to work ok, speedo, indicators, fuel gauge.

[crackers]

Blimey, you're not having to do much to her, just un-modify it. Good find :BigThumb:

[paulthepilot_5]

Blimey, you're not having to do much to her, just un-modify it. Good find :BigThumb:

Yeah seems to be pretty tidy, had been sitting for 5years, prior to that it was a registered daily drive, so has had lots of work done to it mechanically. the ugliest thing I can find on it is internal rust on the right hand chassis rail, where the hand brake pivot mounts, the rail was full of crud in that section so is only paper thin, will need to cut the bottom out and reweld the section

[whitehillbilly64]

Hi,
Any pics of the roll cage set up.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[ezyrama]

very nice tidy truck Paul. Did I notice it had the fuel changeover valve on the seat box?, Does it have a rear tank? If not I got one here you can have if needed.
Cheers Ian

[paulthepilot_5]

Hi,
Any pics of the roll cage set up.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

I'll get some photos next time I'm in there

[paulthepilot_5]

very nice tidy truck Paul. Did I notice it had the fuel changeover valve on the seat box?, Does it have a rear tank? If not I got one here you can have if needed.
Cheers Ian

Yes does have setup for dual tanks, but for a passenger side tank. I could use a rear tank for my other Landy though

[ezyrama]

No problem. I'll pm you with details


Sent from my iPhone using Quasi nuclear phase interlocked
dipthrong retarder technology.

[paulthepilot_5]

Spent this arvo doing more paint stripping and also removed the front wings.
Probably going to keep the series 3 wings and radiator support panel for the moment but plan to replace with the series 2 eventually.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/46.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsakqlsqli.jpeg.html)


Was quite supprised to find the firewall freshly galvanised beneath the paint.
Radiator support panel is also galvanised.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/47.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zps6vnqkozb.jpeg.html)

Will be taking the engine out to replace the rear crank seal and the bell housing
Will also give it a paint when it's out.

[harry]

what makes you think it has series 3 wings and rad support panel?
is it because it has headlights in the wings?
I believe your truck is a later serial no. than mine so is standard with wide lights and is a very late S2A
mine has chassis no beginning 243 with G suffix and was a 1971 build


you aren't wasting any time with the dismantling.
good win with the gal bulkhead and rad panel.
I see you have some extra steel at the centre of the bumper and an alternator , that's good.

[mick88]

Nice looking rig.
I know what you mean about the windscreen mod, I have a 2A that has had the same modification. I am not a fan of it either.
Is the front bumper welded on?
Some sturdy bracing fitted to the front dumb irons, obviously supports for that front tow plate!
The series one roof looks smart on it.


Cheers, Mick.

[mick88]

ooh, how many is that now/
interesting single piece windscreen, I think there is another one on here somewhere.


Yep Harry, this is one!
Not my idea of a good thing either!


Cheers, Mick.

[paulthepilot_5]

what makes you think it has series 3 wings and rad support panel?
is it because it has headlights in the wings?
I believe your truck is a later serial no. than mine so is standard with wide lights and is a very late S2A
mine has chassis no beginning 243 with G suffix and was a 1971 build


you aren't wasting any time with the dismantling.
good win with the gal bulkhead and rad panel.
I see you have some extra steel at the centre of the bumper and an alternator , that's good.

Mine is a B suffix 1964, (from the research I've done) would have has the inboard mounted lights. The radiator panel and wings have a different original paint underneath as well, not the same as the rest of the vehicle.

Yeah the bull bar has been welded on, have to cut it off and repair a small amount of rust where the welds fit to the dumb irons. Trying to get this thing on the road as soon as possible, been without a running Landy for almost 2years now :(

[paulthepilot_5]

Nice looking rig.
I know what you mean about the windscreen mod, I have a 2A that has had the same modification. I am not a fan of it either.
Is the front bumper welded on?
Some sturdy bracing fitted to the front dumb irons, obviously supports for that front tow plate!
The series one roof looks smart on it.


Cheers, Mick.

Yep welded on, the roof is actually a series 3 wagon roof that's been cut up, will be getting rid of it.

[paulthepilot_5]

Is this a normal steering damper setup for a series 2?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/929.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpslfhu1qln.jpeg.html)

I can't see anything in the parts book for it so I'm guessing not. Bloody thing fouls the passage for the crank handle.

[schuy1]

Thats a standard steering damper setup for an early 2a from what Ive seen. On later 2a's '67 on, the chassis mount was welded to the chassis and below so the damper was more aligned with the steering rod and did not block crank access .
Cheers Scott

[harry]

Is this a normal steering damper setup for a series 2?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/929.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpslfhu1qln.jpeg.html)

I can't see anything in the parts book for it so I'm guessing not. Bloody thing fouls the passage for the crank handle.



compared to mine, that is nothing like the real thing.
mine is attached to the chassis to a welded part of the chassis that keeps the damper basically horizontal and does not block the access to the crank handle - why would land rover do that shown in your picture?
I suspect yours is a totally after market jobbie and perhaps your car did not have factory fitted.
it does puzzle me as the other end of the real installation is bolted to a bracket welded to the steering rod, not like your bolted brackets.

[JDNSW]

Steering dampers did not even become an option on Landrovers until Series 2a, and were never standard on any of them (but were fitted as a "standard option" some of the time - e.g. Australian late Series 3).

The setup shown is the listed optional setup for early models that did not have the brackets on the chassis and drag link fitted from the factory. But I don't think the anchorage on the chassis is in the right position, as I don't think it should interfere with the crank handle. I might have a look in the morning if I remember, I think one of the sets of spares I have has this setup.

John

[paulthepilot_5]

Steering dampers did not even become an option on Landrovers until Series 2a, and were never standard on any of them (but were fitted as a "standard option" some of the time - e.g. Australian late Series 3).

The setup shown is the listed optional setup for early models that did not have the brackets on the chassis and drag link fitted from the factory. But I don't think the anchorage on the chassis is in the right position, as I don't think it should interfere with the crank handle. I might have a look in the morning if I remember, I think one of the sets of spares I have has this setup.

John

May end up making the welded bracket the same as the series 3, then use the series 3 rod with the built in bracket.

[paulthepilot_5]

Got a bit more done on the Landy today. Dropped all the old fluids out of the gearbox and T-case, didn't find any part numbers so off to a good start :D
Also got the engine out

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/917.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsgachmupn.jpeg.html)

Found the culprit for the hole in the bell housing too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/918.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpszlogxfdl.jpeg.html)

The starter pinion has tried to liberate itself from the bell housing at some stage in the past, found this in the bottom of the flywheel housing!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/919.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsmue6cnna.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/920.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsmisxemjp.jpeg.html)

Took the clutch and flywheel housing off, ready to attack the rear seal

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/921.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpslukvtn6g.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/922.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsoxt4nk83.jpeg.html)

Next will probably be replacing the busted bell housing

[schuy1]

Steering dampers did not even become an option on Landrovers until Series 2a, and were never standard on any of them (but were fitted as a "standard option" some of the time - e.g. Australian late Series 3).

The setup shown is the listed optional setup for early models that did not have the brackets on the chassis and drag link fitted from the factory. But I don't think the anchorage on the chassis is in the right position, as I don't think it should interfere with the crank handle. I might have a look in the morning if I remember, I think one of the sets of spares I have has this setup.

John

John, that setup is the same as fitted to my 2a swb,that my grandfather purchased new in 1966. It has never been moded and still runs the damper in the same place. I have a feeling that the original damper was very thin, so did not restrict the crank handle. I find with the damper fitted now if I turn onto hard left lock the crank handle will just slide past.
Cheers and a great new year :)

[paulthepilot_5]

John, that setup is the same as fitted to my 2a swb,that my grandfather purchased new in 1966. It has never been moded and still runs the damper in the same place. I have a feeling that the original damper was very thin, so did not restrict the crank handle. I find with the damper fitted now if I turn onto hard left lock the crank handle will just slide past.
Cheers and a great new year :)

The damper on mine only just fouls, didn't think of steering to the left to clear it

[JDNSW]

The other thing that will cause the crankhandle to foul the damper is tired engine mounts.

For most people, the steering damper is not necessary. It is only intended to protect the driver from severe kickback when hitting bad bumps with one wheel. Damping to inhibit wheel wobble or steering shake is provided by frictional damping on the top swivel bush and the steering relay. Fitting of oversize tyres may require additional damping, but it is probably questionable whether this is best supplied by an additional damper or by increasing the frictional damping , for example by increasing swivel preload or a stronger spring in the steering relay.

Dampers began to be fitted to Series Landrovers mainly in response to their fitting by competitors and the high profit margin on dealer installed extras once Rover made them available! My first three Series Landrovers did not have them, and I cannot remember the slightest suggestion that their absence was ever noticed.

John

[Esmac]

compared to mine, that is nothing like the real thing.
mine is attached to the chassis to a welded part of the chassis that keeps the damper basically horizontal and does not block the access to the crank handle - why would land rover do that shown in your picture?
I suspect yours is a totally after market jobbie and perhaps your car did not have factory fitted.
it does puzzle me as the other end of the real installation is bolted to a bracket welded to the steering rod, not like your bolted brackets.

This steering damper is identical in every way to the one fitted to my vehicle.
Mine is a '66 SIIA 88 but who knows how may parts were added over the years and not added from the showroom.

[paulthepilot_5]

The other thing that will cause the crankhandle to foul the damper is tired engine mounts.

For most people, the steering damper is not necessary. It is only intended to protect the driver from severe kickback when hitting bad bumps with one wheel. Damping to inhibit wheel wobble or steering shake is provided by frictional damping on the top swivel bush and the steering relay. Fitting of oversize tyres may require additional damping, but it is probably questionable whether this is best supplied by an additional damper or by increasing the frictional damping , for example by increasing swivel preload or a stronger spring in the steering relay.

Dampers began to be fitted to Series Landrovers mainly in response to their fitting by competitors and the high profit margin on dealer installed extras once Rover made them available! My first three Series Landrovers did not have them, and I cannot remember the slightest suggestion that their absence was ever noticed.

John

Engine mounts on mine are cactus, so that's probably half the drama with the crank handle fouling.

Have to agree John, I drove my series 3 without a damper for about a year, can't say I noticed much of a difference when I put one on.

[paulthepilot_5]

So there is a fair bit of backlash in the rear diff, thinking of sticking the Salisbury from my series 3 into it at this stage just to speed up getting it back on the road. So the question is, am I likely to have a different ratio in the Salisbury from the s3 than the rover diff in the series 2 ?

[JDNSW]

After someof the very early 80" Series 1s, all Series Landrovers had a diff ratio of 4.7:1 except the Stage 1(V8 and Isuzu) which were 3.54:1, the same as the coil sprung 90/110/Defender.

Be aware however that a previous owner may have changed the ratio, so check!

John

[paulthepilot_5]

So ripped out the donor diff today.
Was going to use springs and all, but a stubborn rusted bolt meant the right Spring had to stay!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/608.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpskbjmf4kw.jpeg.html)

Poor old yellow Landy is starting to feel a bit naked!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/609.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsqcylnixs.jpeg.html)

[paulthepilot_5]

Also started reassembling my spare front axle components to swap out into the series 2

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/605.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsg9ctldrp.jpeg.html)

[harry]

Neat crane!

[paulthepilot_5]

Neat crane!

Yeah, beats using engine hoists and jacks

[paulthepilot_5]

So I have stripped down the Landy a fair bit more, and have found significant rust internally in the chassis that were not too obvious until I turned it upside and had a good look

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/831.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsuql1v6tk.jpeg.html)

Went tapping around the chassis with a hammer and found a soft spot, cut open to find this!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/855.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsrkmrpv66.jpeg.html)


Also a lot of cracks around bush mounts

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/856.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpseaexw5ol.jpeg.html)

I have decided to not use this chassis for the moment as it requires too much work. Will be continuing the rebuild on my 1960 SII SWB chassis

[paulthepilot_5]

So to continue the rebuild I have sandblasted and repaired a few minor sections in the chassis

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/850.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsbctavblc.jpeg.html)

Will be sending off to get galvanised later in the week hopefully.

In the meantime have been busy cleaning and sandblasting components for paint

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/851.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpswagbbxd1.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/852.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpslwdyfqyo.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/853.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsrkrotdef.jpeg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/854.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsufoypiau.jpeg.html)

Cheers Paul

[Cannon]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/831.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsuql1v6tk.jpeg.html)





Thought you were bleeding the brakes :)

[paulthepilot_5]

Thought you were bleeding the brakes :)

Not a bad idea, I'll have to give that a go when I get to that stage

[paulthepilot_5]

So got the Chassis back from the galvanisers today, looking pretty flash now :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/519.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsxe9c2k51.jpeg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/520.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsc1yukrjy.jpeg.html)

A few zinc dags to clean up here and there, then will start fitting it out

Also got the front diff and a number of other items painted

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/521.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsjki1jsjq.jpeg.html)

[Dinty]

That is looking good, I do hope though that during the gal/process that the chassis didn't warp, a friend had one done back around 1987 it warped the rear right hand side, anyway fingers XXXX'd for you, keep up the good work cheers Dennis

[paulthepilot_5]

That is looking good, I do hope though that during the gal/process that the chassis didn't warp, a friend had one done back around 1987 it warped the rear right hand side, anyway fingers XXXX'd for you, keep up the good work cheers Dennis

Have had no dramas with warping, checked chassis measurements after.
The only thing I found is any weld repairs that have been ground flush will show up with the gal. I'm not sure if this is due to the heating during the dip or the zinc forming a thicker layer on the weld filler metal (someone else may be able to shed some light as to why this happens). Was not really a problem on mine as it only had a few minor repairs on the outrigger ends.

Cheers Paul

[Dinty]

Well that's good news, my mate Terry (who owned said vehicle) was devastated by the warping, it had a twist of over 50mm, I can't remember how they fixed/bodged the problem too long ago, anyway mate cheers Dennis

[paulthepilot_5]

Got a bit more done the last few days, replaced front and rear crank seals, fitted a new water pump (only because I had one lying around) also cleaned prepped and painted the engine, rocker cover and a few other bits.

Looks a bit better now :-)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1023.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpscgejlzeq.jpeg.html)



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1024.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpstjxxdn6e.jpeg.html)



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1025.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsnjtfuxd1.jpeg.html)



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1026.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpsedsba6py.jpeg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1027.jpg (http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/paulthepilot_5/media/image_zpszpm2yh6v.jpeg.html)

Cheers Paul

[paulthepilot_5]

So after a long break from working on the Landy mainly due to other projects and building a house, I have finally got back into it. Have also taken a bit of a diversion from the original plan of using the rover 2.25petrol, for the moment anyway. Being a bit of an Isuzu engine fan have decided to use an Isuzu 4JB1-T which I recently acquired. So hopefully I will get the chassis to a rolling stage in the next few weeks. Currently working on rebuilding the springs.

Cheers
Paul