Salisbury later one in yes or no

[mudder110]

howdy all well since my epic fail which resulted in me stuffing up my pinion bearing, I am considering replacing the salsbury diff with the latter type, has anybody done this and what are my replacement options?
got a bit of metal out of the diff just don't want to have to go through this again, if its going to be replaced may as well do the lot any advice appreciated cheers all.

[loanrangie]

Stick with the salibury diff , anything else is a cheese stick.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[mudder110]

Stick with the salibury diff , anything else is a cheese stick.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

would not the banjo diff as used in the perentie be stronger?
cheers

[PAT303]

Rover with all Ashcroft internals. Pat

[Bearman]

would not the banjo diff as used in the perentie be stronger?
cheers

Eh? where did you get that idea from. All perenties have salisburys in the rear.

[mudder110]

Rover with all Ashcroft internals. Pat
maybe a Detroit and hi tough axles in it pat, just like the idea of being able to pull out a diff and have it repaired if need be. cheers

[MR LR]

I would leave the Salisbury in it, pay a diff specialist to set it up once and never worry about it again.

[rick130]

I would leave the Salisbury in it, pay a diff specialist to set it up once and never worry about it again.
Ditto.

Once set up the go forever.

The only problems I'm aware of were the ones grossly overloaded that pulled axle tubes in extreme conditions.

[frantic]

If you're rebuilding it there are a few options, stock, Detroit and hytuff, or do what a bloke on here has done and refitted it with Dana 60 internals. I think it was county v8, have a look at his build thread with a 5.7 injected v8. He also did the same to his 130dc which had a factory rover rear. He removed the rover and put in a d60/ Salisbury.cal415 is his name.
Numerous threads.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/modified-zone/126697-35-spline-dana-60-conversion-6.html

[mudder110]

If you're rebuilding it there are a few options, stock, Detroit and hytuff, or do what a bloke on here has done and refitted it with Dana 60 internals. I think it was county v8, have a look at his build thread with a 5.7 injected v8. He also did the same to his 130dc which had a factory rover rear. He removed the rover and put in a d60/ Salisbury.cal415 is his name.
Numerous threads.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/modified-zone/126697-35-spline-dana-60-conversion-6.html
already have maxidrive axles and flanges think Detroit and and full rebuild, no drama pulling the pinion bearing can I just replace it and shim it'then drive it to maybe Townsville? no one here that could do a full rebuild need as much info and advice as I can get, everyone here has been so helpful
cheers all.

[MR LR]

already have maxidrive axles and flanges think Detroit and and full rebuild, no drama pulling the pinion bearing can I just replace it and shim it'then drive it to maybe Townsville? no one here that could do a full rebuild need as much info and advice as I can get, everyone here has been so helpful
cheers all.
If you pull the axles and tailshaft, you could drive it to Townsville in FWD with the CDL locked, will save you on labour when they take it out too... haha

[DazzaTD5]

As others have already suggested, stick with the Sals diff, it is a Danna 60 anyway, Land Rover just skimped on the axles.

I dont rebuild too many Salisbury diffs but do plenty of the later P38 diff as used in late model TD5 and TDCi (puma) models.

Although I have had in a few early Defender models that have had the whole lot changed out to the later P38.... unless the complete assembly was really cheap, I see this as a pointless exercise.

Regards
Daz

[steveG]

already have maxidrive axles and flanges think Detroit and and full rebuild, no drama pulling the pinion bearing can I just replace it and shim it'then drive it to maybe Townsville? no one here that could do a full rebuild need as much info and advice as I can get, everyone here has been so helpful
cheers all.

Have you actually phoned around? Its a dumb as dog**** diff - nothing special so I'd be really surprised if no-one was capable. Willing is a different matter :p

What about these guys (straight off Google): Differential Services | Cairns | Hunter Automotive | Hunter Automotive (http://www.hunterautomotive.com.au/differential-services)

If there's really no-one that will do it and you need to drive it to Townsville I agree with MR LR's suggestion. Don't faff around with the pinion bearing, just pull the prop shaft and axles and drive it down with CDL engaged.
I'd suggest dropping the oil and rear cover to have a look at the crownwheeel and pinion beforehand though so you can line up the parts if necessary. No need to refill it with oil if axles/prop aren't connected.

Detroit is a super-easy install and involves about 5mins extra work with the die grinder to trim the edges of the crosspin holes if the diff is already apart - so don't let anyone screw you on labour to install it.


Steve

[justinc]

My sals has now clocked over 600k no pinion or carrier bearings required yet☺ they are an easy diff to rebuild and the detroit fitment is 50 mins drive in drive out....
The p38 diff option is NOT an option in my opinion...
Jc

[defmec]

Arb $1900 drive in drive out with a warranty

[steveG]

Arb $1900 drive in drive out with a warranty


For what??

Steve

[defmec]

Diff lock fitted

[mudder110]

For what??

Steve

sorry steve mark pinion and nut is what I meant cheers

[mudder110]

sorry steve mark pinion and nut is what I meant cheers
well at least ive got the leaking pinion seal fixed im going to keep at it still got a clunk, not sure how to check the backlash in the pinion, any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance cheers,

[DazzaTD5]

well at least ive got the leaking pinion seal fixed im going to keep at it still got a clunk, not sure how to check the backlash in the pinion, any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance cheers,

Rather than go into all the details of rebuilding a diff, I'll answer your question, but really there is a lot more involved than just the free play between the crown wheel and pinion...

Looking at back of diff, cover off, grab the crown wheel with your left hand like you would sort of hold a steering wheel, move crown wheel up and down, that free play I'd guess is about 2mm, but I say that as a guess because I've not ever measured it, I do it by feel.

But....
How is the Crown wheel & Pinion meshing, depth etc?
Rather than me giving a long winded book explanation here is a very good tutorial on how its all done
Differential Installation Instructions | West Coast Differentials (http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/installation-instructions)

Here is a pic of a P38 diff out of a Defender TDCi that is just about perfect, you can see the contact point is centre both in height and in the heel (outer crown wheel) and toe (centre crown wheel) on the drive side (the sharp pitch side of the teeth. I generally get the slightest toe so as the diff loads up it ends perfect centre. Ideally this is what you are looking for, but dont be overly concerned about getting slight toe. While there are other contact patterns that are considered acceptable, always work towards centre centre.

Getting the contact pattern centre means there is always 3 teeth meshing, one tooth coming on, one tooth full load, one tooth coming off. If meshing is badly off you reduce this. If setting up say a drag car or anything that will dump a huge load onto the diff, you then set up with big toe so again when full load dumps onto the diff it meshes perfect centre.

http://www.aztech4x4.com.au/images/IMG_2319.jpg

Regards
Daz

[mudder110]

Rather than go into all the details of rebuilding a diff, I'll answer your question, but really there is a lot more involved than just the free play between the crown wheel and pinion...

Looking at back of diff, cover off, grab the crown wheel with your left hand like you would sort of hold a steering wheel, move crown wheel up and down, that free play I'd guess is about 2mm, but I say that as a guess because I've not ever measured it, I do it by feel.

But....
How is the Crown wheel & Pinion meshing, depth etc?
Rather than me giving a long winded book explanation here is a very good tutorial on how its all done
Differential Installation Instructions | West Coast Differentials (http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/installation-instructions)

Here is a pic of a P38 diff out of a Defender TDCi that is just about perfect, you can see the contact point is centre both in height and in the heel (outer crown wheel) and toe (centre crown wheel) on the drive side (the sharp pitch side of the teeth. I generally get the slightest toe so as the diff loads up it ends perfect centre. Ideally this is what you are looking for, but dont be overly concerned about getting slight toe. While there are other contact patterns that are considered acceptable, always work towards centre centre.

Getting the contact pattern centre means there is always 3 teeth meshing, one tooth coming on, one tooth full load, one tooth coming off. If meshing is badly off you reduce this. If setting up say a drag car or anything that will dump a huge load onto the diff, you then set up with big toe so again when full load dumps onto the diff it meshes perfect centre.

http://www.aztech4x4.com.au/images/IMG_2319.jpg

Regards
Daz
that gives me about what I need to start much appreciated so much help here cheers all into it this weekend