Traxide installation questions

[Briar]

I am about to in the next couple of weeks install the D4-5S system. This is the kit with the Anderson plug and additional 12v socket in rear. I have Tim's comprehensive instructions and overall it looks straight forward, however, I'm sure I'll be slow.

After searching here and reading the instructions I have a couple of queries from others who have done the install and may be on top of.

1) I read that with an ARB bar installed you can't remove the LHS headlight which allows you to more easily install the sc80 module. Is this correct? If so, does this mean the task is much more difficult?

2) Where the twin 6 B&S cable runs up over the rear wheel hump adjacent to the back seat on drivers side, the cable is supposed to be tucked under the plastic wheel arch cover. There is one point where this is a very tight fit and the cable can't be either put under or fully put under. How have others managed with this bit.

Thanks

Trevor

[LRD414]

Hi Trevor

(1) LHS headlight. It is easier with it removed but still entirely achievable with headlight in place, just a tight fit. I have done one with headlight out and one with headlight in. I have no idea about the bullbar and headlight removal.

(2) Tucking 6B&S under trim. Yes it is very tight in the one spot indicated in the instructions. However with a lot of pushing it will go in far enough to be invisible. I've managed it twice and also got my UHF feed tucked in there too (smaller cable).

If I may make a couple of other suggestions:

(i) Loom Relocation. Pay close attention to placement of the wiring looms that run under where the battery tray is placed.
Do not leave any loom to run under the tray unless you cover it in extra protection such as this:
http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-m/14075-2539341.jpg

The larger loom can be relocated like photo below and I relocated the other one too by zip-tie to other factory wiring (only slightly visible in photo).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/173.jpg


(ii) Magnet Tool. Definitely get a bendy magnet tool for the door sill metal clips and the single clip that holds the carpet piece to the transmission tunnel (it can pop out to under the centre console and requires fishing out. I found that holding the magnet against each metal clip in the sill while pushing it down through the hole slowly to be the best technique.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/174.jpg


(iii) Kick Plate. Be careful with the driver kick plate trim. There's a lot of wiring looms behind there and the kick plate is awkward to install and remove because it slides in/out rather than pulls away.

Regards,
Scott

[letherm]

1) I read that with an ARB bar installed you can't remove the LHS headlight which allows you to more easily install the sc80 module. Is this correct? If so, does this mean the task is much more difficult?


Hi Trevor.

First up, I don't have an ARB bar and I haven't installed this system. But, I do seen to recall from previous threads that the headlights pivot forward to remove so this might make a gap big enough to make it easier. I believe that there are clips on top of the headlight assembly that you depress to move the headlight. I suggest that you see if the light will move enough to make the fitting easier than with it in normal position.

Martin

[BMKal]

I have an ARB bar on mine, and had always been under the impression that I could not remove the grille or headlights based on comments by others on here.

However, I recently discovered that it is quite easy to remove grille and headlights on mine without loosening or moving the bull bar. Try it - you might find the same.

Having said that, I installed my Traxide kit without removing the headlight, and didn't find it too difficult.

[Briar]

I haven't actually received the kit yet, but do have the instructions. I looked today and noticed that there seems to be a gap between the rubber door seal and the plastic wheel arch cover at the right rear door. It seems sufficient to place the 6B&S in. and may be easier than trying to shove the wires on the other side of that trim panel

I was easily able to feed a coat hanger type wire all the way to near the jack area. I'll contact Tim at Traxide and see his thoughts, but I was wondering if anyone else had fed wires through this space? It looks as though you could run the wires in this space underneath the door rubber all the way down to underneath the rear door sill.

Couple of pics to show what I mean.

104839

104840

[Stuart02]

I haven't actually received the kit yet, but do have the instructions. I looked today and noticed that there seems to be a gap between the rubber door seal and the plastic wheel arch cover at the right rear door. It seems sufficient to place the 6B&S in. and may be easier than trying to shove the wires on the other side of that trim panel

I was easily able to feed a coat hanger type wire all the way to near the jack area. I'll contact Tim at Traxide and see his thoughts, but I was wondering if anyone else had fed wires through this space? It looks as though you could run the wires in this space underneath the door rubber all the way down to underneath the rear door sill.

Couple of pics to show what I mean.

104839

104840

Yeah that's what I've done both times no worries. There's plenty of space there it's just more of a reach from the cargo bay into that side compartment.

[SimmAus]

Not too sure what the discussion re: headlights is about. I've installed mine with no problems in the engine bay.
The firewall hole is a little tricky ( but Tims instructions give some tips IIRC: coat hanger / large cable tie to push through, attach wire then pull back?)
Rear wheel arch: the trim is quite flexible, I spent a hour or so trying to push through. Pulling the trim up would've worked just as easy.

All up, quite a simple job and very satisfying once you've done it yourself!!

Great bit of kit, and excellent support

[Briar]

Not too sure what the discussion re: headlights is about. I've installed mine with no problems in the engine bay.
The firewall hole is a little tricky ( but Tims instructions give some tips IIRC: coat hanger / large cable tie to push through, attach wire then pull back?)
Rear wheel arch: the trim is quite flexible, I spent a hour or so trying to push through. Pulling the trim up would've worked just as easy.

All up, quite a simple job and very satisfying once you've done it yourself!!

Great bit of kit, and excellent support

Gidday

I only asked the question about the headlight as I had read on another thread on this forum that if you have an ARB bar you can't remove the LHS headlight to install the traxide module. Did some searching about traxide systems before I asked what might have been considered dopey questions.:)

I wanted to clarify that. Seems like it's no problem though.

Trevor

[Bradmc]

Installed my Traxide kit today. The rear panel leading to the Jack was pretty easy after I unscrewed the seat belt and the top screw hidden behind a cover plate.

The whole panel pulled away with plenty of room to run the cables to the Jack compartment.

All is back together and seems to be fine; except me, I am exhausted, but happy with my achievment ��

[LandyAndy]

Trevor.
Have you got Tims fitting instructions???
Guessing you have,if not give him a yell,he emails a PDF,EVERYTHING is on there,and its as easy as he makes it sound.
Andrew

[LRD414]

The rear panel leading to the Jack was pretty easy after I unscrewed the seat belt and the top screw hidden behind a cover plate.
Brad, could you take a photo of what you mean here with the hidden screw and seat belt. That's a different method to the Traxide instructions and sounds like something worth knowing for other times there's a need to get behind that rear panel (already done my Traxide).

Thanks,
Scott

[Oztourer]

Brad, could you take a photo of what you mean here with the hidden screw and seat belt. That's a different method to the Traxide instructions and sounds like something worth knowing for other times there's a need to get behind that rear panel (already done my Traxide).

Thanks,
Scott

Hi Scott,
Removing the panel is not necessary to install the rear cable however instructions on how to remove it can be found here:

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11468/Rear%20Quarter%20Trim%20Panel%20Removal.pdf

These are sourced from Bluetooth Exchange (http://www.bluetoothexchange.co.uk/index.php)

Clicking on the Land Rover Discovery picture takes you to a photo of the car with the panel removed.

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and I do need to change the installation instructions for the later model D4s.

With earlier D4s and all D3s, you can simply tuck the 6B&S heavy duty cable up under the plastic wheel arch on the seat side.

But there is a bodywork ridge in later moder D4s that means a short section of the cable can not be hidden but this is not visible.

because of the huge volume of orders, I have not been able to do any installations on a D4 for a few years now.

But I did do an install on an RRS a few weeks back and found that there is sufficient gap between the door metalwork and the plastic wheel arch, to be able to thread the 6B&S over the wheel arch.

You need to remove the door seal rubber all the way up to the top of the wheel arch to get access to the gap.

Once the door seal is removed, the cable is easily threaded through in behind the side panel in the cargo area.

There is no need to remove this panel as access to the cable is simply done via the Jack Compartment Door.

Hope this helps and door I don't have photos as yet.

[Bradmc]

Brad, could you take a photo of what you mean here with the hidden screw and seat belt. That's a different method to the Traxide instructions and sounds like something worth knowing for other times there's a need to get behind that rear panel (already done my Traxide).

Thanks,
Scott

Hi Scott,

This is the tab i mentioned (on my 2014 D4). Lift the tab and undo the screw and the seatbelt anchor as per the diagram above (i did not remove the tailgate cable as per the diagram); plus pull the door seal rubber away. This then will give you plenty of room to run the cable. I managed to hide the cable up and over the wheel arch by doing this.

Plus the time it took me to remove the two fasteners and running the cable was less frustrating for me then to try and run a wire through and try and fish the cable through (i did start to do that but was getting a bit frustrated).

While the panel was loose i was able to pull it away from the rear (tailgate) to get access to install another 12v accessory point, and run the cables across the rear to the other side to access the other 12v accessory point.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/898.jpg (http://s923.photobucket.com/user/bradmc2002/media/B10D4F5F-FA82-43A2-9E4F-2481BB46E590.jpg.html)

I got home a touch late, so i could only manage this pic in the light that was available. The tab is just near the rear drive side seatbelt.

Cheers
Brad

[Jimlr]

I didn't find it necessary at all to remove the headlight - couldn't see what advantage it would have given

Definitely add split tube to any cables running under the tray, and even those in the rear jack compartment could benefit.

The firewall hole wasn't a drama, and the sill panels were fine if you follow Tims instructions to the letter.

The biggest challenge was running the cable under the b-pillar, as there are so many tiny wires (easy to snag/damage) wound into a huge loom at the base of the pillar - I think the above posts may have somewhat resolved that though.

[RHS58]

Firewall hole was the most difficult for me.
Really needed 2 elbows on the one arm to get at it.

Ron

[LandyAndy]

Was easy peasy for me,done similar in the past.
Send a piece of soft fencing wire thru first,enough to get a good grab on in the pedal area.Then cut the pull thru wire off and tape the wires to be pulled thru to the fence wire.When pulling a bulk wire pull thru like in a Traxide install step the wires along the pull thru so you arent pulling everything at once;););););)
Andrew

[Briar]

Trevor.
Have you got Tims fitting instructions???
Guessing you have,if not give him a yell,he emails a PDF,EVERYTHING is on there,and its as easy as he makes it sound.
Andrew


Hi Andrew
Yes I have Tim's instructions. All seems pretty good. I appreciate Brad's comments about removing the panel near the seat belt mount. I aim to keep things as unobtrusive as possible and SWMBO would not like a bit a cable showing out the side of the rear wheel arch cover.

Now to figure out how to make the roof rack unobtrusive.

Still waiting for the Traxide kit to arrive. Apparently Tim's under the pump at the moment but should be here next week I'm guessing. He sounds a very friendly and helpful guy over the phone.

Trevor