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Thread: Traxide installation questions

  1. #1
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    Traxide installation questions

    I am about to in the next couple of weeks install the D4-5S system. This is the kit with the Anderson plug and additional 12v socket in rear. I have Tim's comprehensive instructions and overall it looks straight forward, however, I'm sure I'll be slow.

    After searching here and reading the instructions I have a couple of queries from others who have done the install and may be on top of.

    1) I read that with an ARB bar installed you can't remove the LHS headlight which allows you to more easily install the sc80 module. Is this correct? If so, does this mean the task is much more difficult?

    2) Where the twin 6 B&S cable runs up over the rear wheel hump adjacent to the back seat on drivers side, the cable is supposed to be tucked under the plastic wheel arch cover. There is one point where this is a very tight fit and the cable can't be either put under or fully put under. How have others managed with this bit.

    Thanks

    Trevor

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    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Hi Trevor

    (1) LHS headlight. It is easier with it removed but still entirely achievable with headlight in place, just a tight fit. I have done one with headlight out and one with headlight in. I have no idea about the bullbar and headlight removal.

    (2) Tucking 6B&S under trim. Yes it is very tight in the one spot indicated in the instructions. However with a lot of pushing it will go in far enough to be invisible. I've managed it twice and also got my UHF feed tucked in there too (smaller cable).

    If I may make a couple of other suggestions:

    (i) Loom Relocation. Pay close attention to placement of the wiring looms that run under where the battery tray is placed.
    Do not leave any loom to run under the tray unless you cover it in extra protection such as this:


    The larger loom can be relocated like photo below and I relocated the other one too by zip-tie to other factory wiring (only slightly visible in photo).



    (ii) Magnet Tool. Definitely get a bendy magnet tool for the door sill metal clips and the single clip that holds the carpet piece to the transmission tunnel (it can pop out to under the centre console and requires fishing out. I found that holding the magnet against each metal clip in the sill while pushing it down through the hole slowly to be the best technique.



    (iii) Kick Plate. Be careful with the driver kick plate trim. There's a lot of wiring looms behind there and the kick plate is awkward to install and remove because it slides in/out rather than pulls away.

    Regards,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Briar View Post
    1) I read that with an ARB bar installed you can't remove the LHS headlight which allows you to more easily install the sc80 module. Is this correct? If so, does this mean the task is much more difficult?
    Hi Trevor.

    First up, I don't have an ARB bar and I haven't installed this system. But, I do seen to recall from previous threads that the headlights pivot forward to remove so this might make a gap big enough to make it easier. I believe that there are clips on top of the headlight assembly that you depress to move the headlight. I suggest that you see if the light will move enough to make the fitting easier than with it in normal position.

    Martin

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    I have an ARB bar on mine, and had always been under the impression that I could not remove the grille or headlights based on comments by others on here.

    However, I recently discovered that it is quite easy to remove grille and headlights on mine without loosening or moving the bull bar. Try it - you might find the same.

    Having said that, I installed my Traxide kit without removing the headlight, and didn't find it too difficult.
    Cheers .........

    BMKAL


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    I haven't actually received the kit yet, but do have the instructions. I looked today and noticed that there seems to be a gap between the rubber door seal and the plastic wheel arch cover at the right rear door. It seems sufficient to place the 6B&S in. and may be easier than trying to shove the wires on the other side of that trim panel

    I was easily able to feed a coat hanger type wire all the way to near the jack area. I'll contact Tim at Traxide and see his thoughts, but I was wondering if anyone else had fed wires through this space? It looks as though you could run the wires in this space underneath the door rubber all the way down to underneath the rear door sill.

    Couple of pics to show what I mean.

    traxide1.JPG

    traxide2.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Briar View Post
    I haven't actually received the kit yet, but do have the instructions. I looked today and noticed that there seems to be a gap between the rubber door seal and the plastic wheel arch cover at the right rear door. It seems sufficient to place the 6B&S in. and may be easier than trying to shove the wires on the other side of that trim panel

    I was easily able to feed a coat hanger type wire all the way to near the jack area. I'll contact Tim at Traxide and see his thoughts, but I was wondering if anyone else had fed wires through this space? It looks as though you could run the wires in this space underneath the door rubber all the way down to underneath the rear door sill.

    Couple of pics to show what I mean.

    traxide1.JPG

    traxide2.jpg
    Yeah that's what I've done both times no worries. There's plenty of space there it's just more of a reach from the cargo bay into that side compartment.
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  7. #7
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    Not too sure what the discussion re: headlights is about. I've installed mine with no problems in the engine bay.
    The firewall hole is a little tricky ( but Tims instructions give some tips IIRC: coat hanger / large cable tie to push through, attach wire then pull back?)
    Rear wheel arch: the trim is quite flexible, I spent a hour or so trying to push through. Pulling the trim up would've worked just as easy.

    All up, quite a simple job and very satisfying once you've done it yourself!!

    Great bit of kit, and excellent support

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SimmAus View Post
    Not too sure what the discussion re: headlights is about. I've installed mine with no problems in the engine bay.
    The firewall hole is a little tricky ( but Tims instructions give some tips IIRC: coat hanger / large cable tie to push through, attach wire then pull back?)
    Rear wheel arch: the trim is quite flexible, I spent a hour or so trying to push through. Pulling the trim up would've worked just as easy.

    All up, quite a simple job and very satisfying once you've done it yourself!!

    Great bit of kit, and excellent support
    Gidday

    I only asked the question about the headlight as I had read on another thread on this forum that if you have an ARB bar you can't remove the LHS headlight to install the traxide module. Did some searching about traxide systems before I asked what might have been considered dopey questions.

    I wanted to clarify that. Seems like it's no problem though.

    Trevor

  9. #9
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    Installed my Traxide kit today. The rear panel leading to the Jack was pretty easy after I unscrewed the seat belt and the top screw hidden behind a cover plate.

    The whole panel pulled away with plenty of room to run the cables to the Jack compartment.

    All is back together and seems to be fine; except me, I am exhausted, but happy with my achievment ��

  10. #10
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    Trevor.
    Have you got Tims fitting instructions???
    Guessing you have,if not give him a yell,he emails a PDF,EVERYTHING is on there,and its as easy as he makes it sound.
    Andrew
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