300 TDi crank pulley bolt....

[Tins]

I have been trying most of today to crack the front pulley bolt. My rattle gun, or more likely the compressor, won't cut it. I've tried the breaker bar/starter motor trick, and I've locked it in gear and used a long breaker with a pipe on it to give me about a 1200 mm pull. No way. And, yes Dave, I used a heat gun. So, a bigger compressor and rattle gun, which I can't afford, or? I've considered raising the front of the car and setting the breaker bar on the ground and then dropping the car. Other than that I'm stumped. Any ideas would be most welcome.

[Tins]

I have made up a locking pin for the flywheel so I can do the belt, but I reckon the bolt is so tight i might break the locking pin.

[TimNZ]

I got the crank pulley bolt on my neighbors RRC undone by heating it with a MAP Gas torch, then spraying it while hot with inox, (repeated about 5x), eventually it let go. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Good luck,

Tim

[Tins]

Ok Tim. I have a torch, and I guess I don't have to worry about the seal....

[Tins]

Is anybody friends with Arnold Schwarzenegger?

[Tins]

I got the crank pulley bolt on my neighbors RRC undone by heating it with a MAP Gas torch, then spraying it while hot with inox, (repeated about 5x), eventually it let go. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Good luck,

Tim

Err, I take it I'm heating the pulley, not the bolt?

[bee utey]

I have made up a locking pin for the flywheel so I can do the belt, but I reckon the bolt is so tight i might break the locking pin.
On an auto you remove the starter motor and engage a socket on one of the torque converter bolts that passes the little cut out behind the starter. A 3/8" deep socket seems to fit best. On a manual you put it in 4th gear high range CDL on and apply the hand brake firmly.


Err, I take it I'm heating the pulley, not the bolt?

It's the bolt you're trying to expand, not the pulley.

[rick130]

I made a crank locking tool that bolts to the pulley and wedge that against the chassis rail, then use a 5' length of water pipe on a 3/4" drive breaker bar.

Can't find the damn photo of it.

[Tins]

On an auto you remove the starter motor and engage a socket on one of the torque converter bolts that passes the little cut out behind the starter. A 3/8" deep socket seems to fit best. On a manual you put it in 4th gear high range CDL on and apply the hand brake firmly.

Pretty much as I have done. It's a manual BTW.


It's the bolt you're trying to expand, not the pulley.

That's confusing. Surely expanding the bolt will make it tighter, or am I missing something? Does expanding the bolt crack the coefficient they have somehow?

[rick130]

That's confusing. Surely expanding the bolt will make it tighter, or am I missing something? Does expanding the bolt crack the coefficient they have somehow?

If it's Loctited it kills the loctite and if it's rust or corrosion holding it it breaks that bind as it cools.

[TimNZ]

Err, I take it I'm heating the pulley, not the bolt?

No, I was heating the head of the bolt, trying to get the bolt to expand and contract to loosen it with the heating and cooling, also with the hope some of the inox might soak in, (or even get pulled in with some capillary action).

[Tank]

I have been trying most of today to crack the front pulley bolt. My rattle gun, or more likely the compressor, won't cut it. I've tried the breaker bar/starter motor trick, and I've locked it in gear and used a long breaker with a pipe on it to give me about a 1200 mm pull. No way. And, yes Dave, I used a heat gun. So, a bigger compressor and rattle gun, which I can't afford, or? I've considered raising the front of the car and setting the breaker bar on the ground and then dropping the car. Other than that I'm stumped. Any ideas would be most welcome.
What happened when you used the breaker bar on top of the left hand chassis rail (passenger side), also you did disconnect the wires to the fuel solenoid on the injector pump.
I have never failed doing it this way, I always have a bit of slack at the end of the bar a couple of inches above the top of the chassis rail and a very quick twist of the key, on and off.
Someone may have gone overboard with threadlocker and some heat should help there, Good Luck, Regards Frank.
P.S. quality tools needed, crap tools will flex and even bend.

[bee utey]

That's confusing. Surely expanding the bolt will make it tighter, or am I missing something? Does expanding the bolt crack the coefficient they have somehow?
A crank bolt is something like five times longer than its wide. Heating makes it then expand lengthways 5x faster than it widens. A high tensile bolt's grip is mainly from the end loading (tension) created by stretching slightly via turning into the the thread, creating friction in the thread and under the head. Unless a bolt is damaged or rusted into the crank it will not expand enough sideways to lock it in the threaded part. A bit of lube soaking in after a few cycles of heating and cooling is a bonus in reducing friction enough to let it start to turn and reduce the tension.

[Tins]

What happened when you used the breaker bar on top of the left hand chassis rail (passenger side), also you did disconnect the wires to the fuel solenoid on the injector pump.

Didn't see the need to disconnect anything as the head is off, so it can't start.


I have never failed doing it this way, I always have a bit of slack at the end of the bar a couple of inches above the top of the chassis rail and a very quick twist of the key, on and off.

Same. I gave it about two or three inches so it got a good whack.


Someone may have gone overboard with threadlocker and some heat should help there, Good Luck, Regards Frank.
P.S. quality tools needed, crap tools will flex and even bend.

I try very hard to use the old Australian Sidchrome. or Stahlwille, or failing that Kinchrome. Cheap tools are a double waste of money.

[Tins]

A crank bolt is something like five times longer than its wide. Heating makes it then expand lengthways 5x faster than it widens. A high tensile bolt's grip is mainly from the end loading (tension) created by stretching slightly via turning into the the thread, creating friction in the thread and under the head. Unless a bolt is damaged or rusted into the crank it will not expand enough sideways to lock it in the threaded part. A bit of lube soaking in after a few cycles of heating and cooling is a bonus in reducing friction enough to let it start to turn and reduce the tension.

Ok, that makes sense. I guess my thinking is still stuck in older times. I will give it a whirl.

[Tank]

Didn't see the need to disconnect anything as the head is off, so it can't start.



Same. I gave it about two or three inches so it got a good whack.



I try very hard to use the old Australian Sidchrome. or Stahlwille, or failing that Kinchrome. Cheap tools are a double waste of money.
Head off certainly will make a difference, LOL, my Son and I bought a Sidchrome damper bolt Buster for our new workshop, Long heavy bar with pivoting arm on end and 1/2" socket drive for around $150, either use weight of bar by lifting to full height and slamming down or use a flogging hammer.
There are some pommy vids on U-Tube under "How to build 300TDi", you may be able to make one yourself, not very complicated, Regards Frank.

[rick130]

I try very hard to use the old Australian Sidchrome. or Stahlwille, or failing that Kinchrome. Cheap tools are a double waste of money.

I snapped off a Snap On breaker bar doing up that bloody bolt once.

Lesson being don't use a 1/2" drive where you should be using a 3/4" drive breaker bar. :angel:

I replaced the Snap On with a Koken bar, can't remember what the 3/4" slider bar is ?

[Tins]

I snapped off a Snap On breaker bar doing up that bloody bolt once.

Lesson being don't use a 1/2" drive where you should be using a 3/4" drive breaker bar. :angel:

I replaced the Snap On with a Koken bar, can't remember what the 3/4" slider bar is ?

Kincrome make a 3/4 telescopic, bit it's a ratchet, which worries me.

I'm using a 3/4 set with a trolley jack handle. The 3/4 sockets I have are double hex, but I think they're OK. My rattle gun is only 1/2, but it's not doing anything anyway.

I'm in Brisbane right now, but when I get home it'll be gas torch and Penetrene. Oh, and fire extinguisher.

[Tank]

Kincrome make a 3/4 telescopic, bit it's a ratchet, which worries me.

I'm using a 3/4 set with a trolley jack handle. The 3/4 sockets I have are double hex, but I think they're OK. My rattle gun is only 1/2, but it's not doing anything anyway.

I'm in Brisbane right now, but when I get home it'll be gas torch and Penetrene. Oh, and fire extinguisher.
Be wary of using a Ratchet to do or undo anything that is tight all the weight goes to the pawl holding the gear (fine) teeth. That Sidchrome bar I mentioned in the previous post is the Bee's knee's for this type of work, but only reason I bought one for our Workshop is We'll be hiring out part of the workshop along with tools and hoist, esp. for budding LR mechanics. I have never seen this type of tool fail, regards Frank.

[Tins]

Be wary of using a Ratchet to do or undo anything that is tight all the weight goes to the pawl holding the gear (fine) teeth. That Sidchrome bar I mentioned in the previous post is the Bee's knee's for this type of work, but only reason I bought one for our Workshop is We'll be hiring out part of the workshop along with tools and hoist, esp. for budding LR mechanics. I have never seen this type of tool fail, regards Frank.

I know, that's why I said it. Broken a few ratchets over the years. Knuckles too.

Nice idea hiring out the 'shop. Now I'll bet none of mr LRs ever break down on the South Coast.

[schuy1]

The only rattle gun that works on the damper bolt is a 3/4 drive , or better yet an 1" drive! :) Now either of those makes very short work of stubborn bolts. Of course you have to remove radiator, support panel, bumper/bullbar, etc. But I do all that and at the same time clean/flush radiator, clean/flush intercooler, check/replace all hoses etc. Its a big job any which way so may as well do everything!
Cheers Scott

[Tank]

The only rattle gun that works on the damper bolt is a 3/4 drive , or better yet an 1" drive! :) Now either of those makes very short work of stubborn bolts. Of course you have to remove radiator, support panel, bumper/bullbar, etc. But I do all that and at the same time clean/flush radiator, clean/flush intercooler, check/replace all hoses etc. Its a big job any which way so may as well do everything!
Cheers Scott
A 3/4" or 1" drive rattle gun is useless on anything like the average home compressor a good 30 cu.ft./min is needed to turn one of these over, Regards Frank.

[Blknight.aus]

again tank, dont tell that to my compressor or 3/4 drive rattle gun.

Ive even had a 12v compressor that was happy to run the 3/4 gun.

[ATH]

As another poster said make sure you take the wires off the solenoid or it'll fire and run...... I had my belt done by a much recommended mechanic once and he forgot to. Result was a busted rad where one of his tools went through it. Never used him again.
A tip that may help in the heating/cooling is to turn out the flame and use a good blast of oxy straight onto the bolt head. I did this a few times in the bush working on Cat plant and it worked as the oxy is very cold.
AlanH.

[Tins]

As another poster said make sure you take the wires off the solenoid or it'll fire and run...... I had my belt done by a much recommended mechanic once and he forgot to. Result was a busted rad where one of his tools went through it. Never used him again.
A tip that may help in the heating/cooling is to turn out the flame and use a good blast of oxy straight onto the bolt head. I did this a few times in the bush working on Cat plant and it worked as the oxy is very cold.
AlanH.

I've got the head off, so it's unlikely to start. :)



Hmm. Better remember it IS a Landrover.:eek2:

[Tins]

A 3/4" or 1" drive rattle gun is useless on anything like the average home compressor a good 30 cu.ft./min is needed to turn one of these over, Regards Frank.

I bought one today It wants 150 litres pm min. I have 3 rubbish Chinese compressors which I am going to connect together. Once this is done they are destined for ebay or the hard rubbish pickup.

[Tins]

I bought one today It wants 150 litres pm min.

Of course, now I have it, I will have to move the condensor to get it in there........

[Tins]

Before I move anything, is it possible to move the condenser without de gassing the system?

[loanrangie]

You will be able to swing it to one side but not alot, should give enough clearance.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[eddy]

Sidchrome SCMT70865 Powerbar Hand Impact Wrench FOR Harmonic Balancer Pulleys | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sidchrome-SCMT70865-POWERBAR-HAND-IMPACT-WRENCH-FOR-HARMONIC-BALANCER-PULLEYS-/321992384993)One these looks the go or if you want to spend more Teng Tools ? Power Bar (http://www.tengtools.com.au/product/power-bar/)

[Tins]

Sidchrome SCMT70865 Powerbar Hand Impact Wrench FOR Harmonic Balancer Pulleys | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sidchrome-SCMT70865-POWERBAR-HAND-IMPACT-WRENCH-FOR-HARMONIC-BALANCER-PULLEYS-/321992384993)One these looks the go or if you want to spend more Teng Tools ? Power Bar (http://www.tengtools.com.au/product/power-bar/)

Thanks. Supercheap sell a toledo one for around $150 as well, but only online. I was hoping to get the darn thing off sometime today.....

[Tins]

So, a 3/4 drive rattle gun and a fairly decent compressor I borrowed and still no luck. Guess I'll be buying one of those hand impact thingys so I can hit myself with a hammer. Joy.

[Tank]

So, a 3/4 drive rattle gun and a fairly decent compressor I borrowed and still no luck. Guess I'll be buying one of those hand impact thingys so I can hit myself with a hammer. Joy.
Way to Go, if this don't work, you're in strife, Good Luck, Regards Frank.

[cafe latte]

You mentioned a possible solution before which I have done in the past, but there is an easier way. Good strong bar 3/4 socket well on and keep checking it does not slip and chew things. A very good large bottle jack on the end of the bar. Jack up the bar, if it starts to lift the car bounce on the car and the shock should release the nut, a wack with a lump hammer can do the same when it is under load too, but a bounce is easier. I doubt the nut will resist this, a bit of heat before you start will ensure success. If you have a large ring spanner it is less likely to slips under load.
I hope this does the trick.
Chris

[AllTerr]

Maybe one of these would work?

http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/121548456283

I bought one from a local truckie supply shop to undo/do up my hub stake nut and it was effortless..

[Tins]

Maybe one of these would work?

Torque Multiplier SET Wrench LUG Nuts Remover Labor Saving Heavy Duty Suits More | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/121548456283)

I bought one from a local truckie supply shop to undo/do up my hub stake nut and it was effortless..

Those things are awesome. We have one at work. But there's no room for it in there unless I remove the A/C condenser. I don't want to do that if I don't have to.

[Tins]

Way to Go, if this don't work, you're in strife, Good Luck, Regards Frank.

Ordered one online. Should arrive tomorrow.

[AllTerr]

Those things are awesome. We have one at work. But there's no room for it in there unless I remove the A/C condenser. I don't want to do that if I don't have to.


Oh ok. Figured if you could fit a rattle gun in there that you could fit that in there too :)

[Tins]

Oh ok. Figured if you could fit a rattle gun in there that you could fit that in there too :)

Yeah. My 3/4 rattle gun only just squeezes in with the condenser pushed back as far as I dare. Those things are longer. :mad:

[schuy1]

Damn thats 1 tight bolt! :O I have never had any of mine resist that 3/4 rattle! Are you sure some 1 hasnt welded it? So thats me clean out of ideas for you sorry :(
Cheers Scott

[mikeyp]

This might sound silly but I have seen people hanging off front pulley bolts to the point they snap, only to find out their LH thread????

[Blknight.aus]

daft question...

what size airline and what fittings are you using? standard 3/8th or 10mm ID airhose and fittings as you'd normally get at bunnings wont drive a 3/4 rattle gun to full noise.

Thats the key difference between the bunnings compressor Im running and the stock compressor. I have a high flow fitting thats not on a regulator that feeds a 12.7mm id line. (that and the cut out is wound up to 140psi, 5psi under the safety blow off valve).


if you dont mind paying through the nose you can get those fittings and line from bunnings but they are usually cheaper from pirtek Enzed or if its only for intermittant duration use, ebay and alibaba

[Tins]

daft question...


Not daft at all, Dave. In fact I suspect that you are right. The last attempt I made was with a comp delivering 150l pm, but through a reg, and the most I could get was 100psi. The hose was 10mm, but I cut it down to about 3 metres in length, hoping that would help.
I've got my eyes on a big old 3 phase comp from a disused bus workshop. It has a cylinder about as big as me. I have just the spot for it, and yes, I do have 3 phase. Not much help to me now though.

[Blknight.aus]

what you might get away with is......


borrow a very long 3/4 or if you know the right people inch air hose with the right fittings on it, plug it into your compressor and use the hose as a "surge" tank.

it should be very easy to fit a high flow fitting to your tank and then wind the pressure up on the motor cut out.

[Aaron IIA]

You don't need a big compressor to run a rattle gun. You just need to let it recharge between brief bursts. I have used a 3/4 rattle gun on a 6cfm compressor with a 10 litre receiver. It all comes down to pressure and flow rate through the air line. Large diameter hoses and fittings with no restrictions are the way to go. Do away with the regulator and set the pressure switch to just below the relief valve pressure.

Aaron

[Tank]

I bought one today It wants 150 litres pm min. I have 3 rubbish Chinese compressors which I am going to connect together. Once this is done they are destined for ebay or the hard rubbish pickup.
My Son and I just bought a new compressor for our new workshop, it has a 150lt. air tank, a 3 cylinder large bore compressor motor powered by a 12HP 3 phase electric motor, takes under a minute to cut out at 115psi and the restart is set at 85psi.
Most 1/2" hose air tools (esp. Rattle gun) require at least 85/90psi to operate effectively, so this compressor will run a 1/2' rattle gun at full bore continously, most small motored compressors have a lower startup psi. to allow the smaller motor to restart, like 50 psi., Regards Frank.

[Aaron IIA]

most small motored compressors have a lower startup psi. to allow the smaller motor to restart, like 50 psi., Regards Frank.

I have never encountered this in any compressor that I have ever seen, cheap or good quality. There is a port in the pressure switch which de-compresses the compressor and delivery pipe when the motor switches off, resulting in the characteristic hiss. The motor and compressor can then start with no load. Some old compressors de-compressed just before re-starting.

Aaron

[Blknight.aus]

in tanks defence, back in his day...

low end compressors didnt have the decompress outlet line after shutdown feature. They could get away with nasty start up currents because motors were built to deal with it and had a much fatter fudge factor. However in this day and age where everything must be made down to the minimum standard possible to achieve the job to maximise profit efficiency its better to put a small bleed off check in the delivery line

[Tank]

I have never encountered this in any compressor that I have ever seen, cheap or good quality. There is a port in the pressure switch which de-compresses the compressor and delivery pipe when the motor switches off, resulting in the characteristic hiss. The motor and compressor can then start with no load. Some old compressors de-compressed just before re-starting.

Aaron
Well, why don't you check what your startup pressure is, regards Frank.

[Blknight.aus]

90psi for the modded one
70psi for the little 400w direct drive oil less one that I use in place of a 12v compressor

[Aaron IIA]

90psi

[cafe latte]

Did you try the bottle jack trick?
Chris

[Tins]

Did you try the bottle jack trick?
Chris

No. I've been away at work. And I don't have a decent bottle jack. I did try to get the trolley jack under, but there's too much in the way for that.

[Vern]

I tried 3/4 breaker bar and a 2m pipe and my 110kg frame and couldn't budge my bolt on the 4bd1, so bought a Milwaukee 18v 3/4 drive rattle gun with 1627Nm of torque, came straight off! My 1/2" rattle gun was laughed at😊

[Aaron IIA]

110kg at 2m in 9.8m/s/s of gravity, if aligned correctly, works out at 2156nm.

Aaron

[cafe latte]

110kg at 2m in 9.8m/s/s of gravity, if aligned correctly, works out at 2156nm.

Aaron

Amazing how stubborn bolts can be. I could not shift the wheel nuts on a tipper truck I dont know what they put them on with. I had a 7 foot pipe on the bar and I was bouncing on it, gripping the side of the truck on the downward bounce and helping my weight pushing with all my strength. Eventually the first one let go with a crack!! No idea how many foot pound it was but it must have been a LOT.
Chris

[Vern]

110kg at 2m in 9.8m/s/s of gravity, if aligned correctly, works out at 2156nm.

Aaron

Did I mention beer may have been involved :D.

(It was also on an engine stand so full body weight may not have been fully involved! Did I mention the beer bit?)

[Tank]

Amazing how stubborn bolts can be. I could not shift the wheel nuts on a tipper truck I dont know what they put them on with. I had a 7 foot pipe on the bar and I was bouncing on it, gripping the side of the truck on the downward bounce and helping my weight pushing with all my strength. Eventually the first one let go with a crack!! No idea how many foot pound it was but it must have been a LOT.
Chris
I had a truck driver break one of my 3/4 drive sockets (without my permission) doing exactly what you described, trouble was this dill didn't know that the wheel nuts on the left hand side of the truck were left hand thread, pays to check first, Regards Frank.

[cafe latte]

I had a truck driver break one of my 3/4 drive sockets (without my permission) doing exactly what you described, trouble was this dill didn't know that the wheel nuts on the left hand side of the truck were left hand thread, pays to check first, Regards Frank.

:D No mine were normal threads, but you make a very good point though.
Chris

[Tins]

I had a truck driver break one of my 3/4 drive sockets (without my permission) doing exactly what you described, trouble was this dill didn't know that the wheel nuts on the left hand side of the truck were left hand thread, pays to check first, Regards Frank.

Years ago, my sister came to my then workplace with a tale of woe. She had a flat tyre in a big shopping centre. A man had tried to help her:wub:. He said that there
was "something wrong" with her wheel nuts, after he had been jumping up and down on her wheel brace. It was on the LHF wheel of her VG Valiant.
I eventually got them undone by putting a long breaker bar on and wedging it on the ground and driving it forward gently.
The bloody studs even had a big "L" stamped into the top. Still, it's hard to blame him. The other two of the "Big Three" at the time didn't use left hand thread on their wheel nuts,
or anywhere else for that matter.
There was a theory that wheel nuts would 'undo' if RH threads were used on the LH side of the car/truck. It's an interesting theory.
The Scania I drive has all RH thread wheel nuts, and it makes no difference; I can't undo the things either way. If I get a flat I have to wait for the tyre guy.

[Tins]

And a while ago mikeyp brought up the LH thread thing. I had to double check, because I'd been using the breaker bar/starter motor trick. Could have been ugly.
Anyway, I have just returned from a 7500 km journey, which took a week, and my you beaut hit it with a big hammer impact wrench has arrived in my absence.
I'm keen to try it but it's after 3AM, and I just got in. Best I get some sleep. I'll report.

[Tins]

I tried 3/4 breaker bar and a 2m pipe and my 110kg frame and couldn't budge my bolt on the 4bd1, so bought a Milwaukee 18v 3/4 drive rattle gun with 1627Nm of torque, came straight off! My 1/2" rattle gun was laughed at😊

I'd love to get one of those, but my tool purchases are rapidly eclipsing the worth of the car. Sanity, or at least my version of it, will have to prevail.

[Tins]

I tried 3/4 breaker bar and a 2m pipe and my 110kg frame and couldn't budge my bolt on the 4bd1, so bought a Milwaukee 18v 3/4 drive rattle gun with 1627Nm of torque, came straight off! My 1/2" rattle gun was laughed at😊

I'd love to get one of those, but my tool purchases are rapidly eclipsing the worth of the car. Sanity, or at least my version of it, will have to prevail.

[Tins]

And a while ago mikeyp brought up the LH thread thing. I had to double check, because I'd been using the breaker bar/starter motor trick. Could have been ugly.
Anyway, I have just returned from a 7500 km journey, which took a week, and my you beaut hit it with a big hammer impact wrench has arrived in my absence.
I'm keen to try it but it's after 3AM, and I just got in. Best I get some sleep. I'll report.

So,the impact tool and a mini sledge hammer don't work.... This is getting ridiculous.

[Disco-tastic]

I cant believe this is still going! :eek:

I tried to change the timing belt on my 300Tdi once... i tried the starter motor trick and some heat but couldnt get it undone. I ended up leaving it and sold the car a couple of months later :o

I sold it for other reasons btw. :p

Cheers

Dan

[jboot51]

So,the impact tool and a mini sledge hammer don't work.... This is getting ridiculous.

I found the same thing with the one I purchased a few years ago.
Mushroomed the top of the tool.
Gave up . Purchased the crank looking tool and 3/4 braker bar with a 5ft pipe.

In saying that, a bloke (non forum member) has just done the same and managed to snap the bolt inside the crank.
His balancer is also broken around the keyway.
I assume it was overtightened when he did a rebuild 12 months ago and the bolt has bottomed out an damaged the threads.
He now has a big problem to deal with.

[Tins]

I found the same thing with the one I purchased a few years ago.
Mushroomed the top of the tool.
Gave up . Purchased the crank looking tool and 3/4 braker bar with a 5ft pipe.

In saying that, a bloke (non forum member) has just done the same and managed to snap the bolt inside the crank.
His balancer is also broken around the keyway.
I assume it was overtightened when he did a rebuild 12 months ago and the bolt has bottomed out an damaged the threads.
He now has a big problem to deal with.

The overtightening thing is worrying me. I made up a crank locking bolt as per Dave's (blkknight) instructions, but I think it would break with the leverage of a 5' pipe.
I think I'll try heating it up as much as my propane torch can give it and try again. If I have no luck I'll give up on the timing belt for now, put the head back on and save up for a; a cordless 3/4 rattler, or b;, pull the engine and put a V6 in it.
I've had tough pulley bolts before, FIATs are notorious for it, but this is ridiculous.

[Tins]

I cant believe this is still going! :eek:

Neither can I:censored:

[Tins]

I'd love to get one of those, but my tool purchases are rapidly eclipsing the worth of the car. Sanity, or at least my version of it, will have to prevail.

On the other hand, the thing probably would undo the nuts on the Scania...

[cafe latte]

My bottle jack thing will release this nut no nut will support the car and a bounce. If you dont have a bottle jack borrow one. Ring spanner (good one) one the nut, jack up on the spanner and bounce the nut will let go. If you heat first it will pop off for sure.
I have released nuts from trucks with this method on a Defender it will let go.
Chris

[Tins]

On the other hand, the thing probably would undo the nuts on the Scania...

So, bought a Milwaulkee 18 volt 3/4 drive rattle gun. No contest. Undone in about one second. Wish I'd had it when I was undoing the head bolts... Gunna make changing wheels a snap.

[Judo]

So, bought a Milwaulkee 18 volt 3/4 drive rattle gun. No contest. Undone in about one second. Wish I'd had it when I was undoing the head bolts... Gunna make changing wheels a snap.


Wow, I can't believe that was so easy but so many other forceful methods failed. I was starting to think it was angle grinder time (possibly to the pulley as well!).

Can I ask how much the rattle gun was?

[vnx205]

Congratulations! :)

Sometimes the job is impossible without the right tool and dead easy with the right tool.

Last year I spent a whole afternoon trying to remove the crank pulley bolt on a Camry to no avail.

Next day I borrowed Tank's impact wrench and compressor. The exact time it took to remove the bolt was a bit difficult to measure accurately. However it would have been close to 1/4 second to start the bolt moving and about another 3/4 second to remove it completely.

[vnx205]

Can I ask how much the rattle gun was?

Probably about this much.
https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/milwaukee-18v-fuel-brushless-3-4-high-torque-impact-wrench-m18chiwf34-0.html?gdftrk=gdfV26854_a_7c442_a_7c1200_a_7c10087 7&gclid=Cj0KEQiAxrW2BRCFidKbqKyq1YEBEiQAnMDWxkPO92Oy rBiHwle_4eeu9PEwT_1JKQiLhggIRSa9tusaAnIC8P8HAQ

Maybe plus the cost of the battery and charger.

[Judo]

Probably about this much.
https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/milwaukee-18v-fuel-brushless-3-4-high-torque-impact-wrench-m18chiwf34-0.html?gdftrk=gdfV26854_a_7c442_a_7c1200_a_7c10087 7&gclid=Cj0KEQiAxrW2BRCFidKbqKyq1YEBEiQAnMDWxkPO92Oy rBiHwle_4eeu9PEwT_1JKQiLhggIRSa9tusaAnIC8P8HAQ

Maybe plus the cost of the battery and charger.


Thanks for catering for my laziness. :D

[jboot51]

That ball joint on the drop arm from the steering box took me 12hrs to replace the first time without the correct tools.

[Tins]

Wow, I can't believe that was so easy but so many other forceful methods failed. I was starting to think it was angle grinder time (possibly to the pulley as well!).

Can I ask how much the rattle gun was?

$699, with a charger and two batteries, from that tool mob with the red shops. I think it will be a good investment in the long run.

[Tins]

There is evidence of a considerable amount of some thread locking substance. Nice to know it works...:censored:

[Tins]

$699, with a charger and two batteries, from that tool mob with the red shops. I think it will be a good investment in the long run.

Dave (Blknight) and Tank both brought up good points re compressors and air lines. My 3/4 drive air rattler had no effect on this bolt, and I was at it for some time. My compressor was no good, so I borrowed a good one, which cost a lot of money when purchased, but still no good.
I've been wanting a decent compressor for a while, but not any more. The ones I have will easily blow up a tyre, or run the brad gun when I need it, or the air ratchet, but I'm not chasing good performance out of air tools any longer. I have always liked cordless stuff, but all the stuff I have is NiCad. I simply was not prepared for the power that the Lithium stuff has. And now I have the core of a system that has many tools and doesn't need cords or hoses, and, if the rattle gun is any guide, is absolutely brilliant.

[Judo]

Interesting to hear your thoughts on the new cordless gear. Everyone certainly raves about it being amazing. I've been very reluctant and haven't purchased any due to price. I'm sure one day I'll impulse purchase one, or need to undo a crank nut I suppose! hehe

Glad you got it sorted. As I always think when I buy a new tool - have you spent much more than it would have cost to have a workshop do the work? A timing belt change could be $1000. That's how I justify all my new tools anyway. :D

[Tins]

Interesting to hear your thoughts on the new cordless gear. Everyone certainly raves about it being amazing. I've been very reluctant and haven't purchased any due to price. I'm sure one day I'll impulse purchase one, or need to undo a crank nut I suppose! hehe

Glad you got it sorted. As I always think when I buy a new tool - have you spent much more than it would have cost to have a workshop do the work? A timing belt change could be $1000. That's how I justify all my new tools anyway. :D

When I started this job I was sure I had the tools to do it. Ha ha. But, all the tools I bought will have lots of uses going forward, and the money will be forgotten.
The cordless rattler doesn't take up a lot of space, and it gets a wheel off in about ten seconds.

[schuy1]

Good to see you finally had a win :) I just compared specs on that rattle gun and my air 1, My Ingersol Rand 3/4 is rated at 1340 nm at 140 psi (actually its in ft/lbs, but I converted it for comparison ), The Milwaukee 1016 nm.
Cheers Scott

[Tins]

Good to see you finally had a win :) I just compared specs on that rattle gun and my air 1, My Ingersol Rand 3/4 is rated at 1340 nm at 140 psi (actually its in ft/lbs, but I converted it for comparison ), The Milwaukee 1016 nm.
Cheers Scott

You're talking serious gear here. IR and CP are both great brands. The tyre services use 'em. Thing is though, there is no way I'll get 140 psi out of the compressors I have here. I reckon 1016 nm out of a cordless tool is pretty good, and I can take it with me!

[Tank]

So, bought a Milwaulkee 18 volt 3/4 drive rattle gun. No contest. Undone in about one second. Wish I'd had it when I was undoing the head bolts... Gunna make changing wheels a snap.
I wouldn't use the rattle gun to undo the head bolts, you should crack the bolts in order to release tension evenly to avoid warping the head, once cracked (hardest bit I know) use the rattler to undo, Regards Frank.

[cafe latte]

I wouldn't use the rattle gun to undo the head bolts, you should crack the bolts in order to release tension evenly to avoid warping the head, once cracked (hardest bit I know) use the rattler to undo, Regards Frank.

I agree.
When I do head bolts I crack them off first, but only undo a bit so there is still tension on them. I then do the next in required order doing the same ie not releasing all the tension. I repeat and it can take me three or more passes to release the complete tension from the head bolts. Probably not required, but this way you are sure you will not warp the head.
Chris

[Vern]

Good to see you finally had a win :) I just compared specs on that rattle gun and my air 1, My Ingersol Rand 3/4 is rated at 1340 nm at 140 psi (actually its in ft/lbs, but I converted it for comparison ), The Milwaukee 1016 nm.
Cheers Scott
Depends which milwaukee cordless he got, mine is 1627Nm😈

[Tins]

I wouldn't use the rattle gun to undo the head bolts, you should crack the bolts in order to release tension evenly to avoid warping the head, once cracked (hardest bit I know) use the rattler to undo, Regards Frank.

The comment was a little tongue in cheek. Having said that, most reconditioners use rattlers for everything on disassembly.

[Tank]

The comment was a little tongue in cheek. Having said that, most reconditioners use rattlers for everything on disassembly.
Yeh, it's not their engine, Regards Frank.