Starting vehicle after 12 months

[Anthony Violi]

I started working on my p38 approximately 1 year ago. Stripped top of engine, new engine mounts, heads tested cleaned gaskets etc. I am almost finished refitting and ready to start engine. Are there any steps I need to take? or anything to look out for? Do I need to do anything with the fuel being in vehicle for so long?

[TheTree]

Hi

I imagine the fuel will be pretty stale now, maybe you can dilute it with fresh stuff?

Fully charged battery and the best of British luck :D

Steve

[Keithy P38]

I'd imagine you might need to prime the fuel up if it doesn't fire straight away, otherwise, should be good! As Steve said, probably best to chuck some fresh fuel in the tank too.

Cheers
Keithy

[mtb_gary]

It a p38, just turn the key and it will start straight away :angel:

After double checking and triple checking all the connectors as well as the spark plug lead order!

Steve and Keith have covered the main potential problems. I'd personally put some 98 octate in the tank to bring the average octane up again, turn the ignition to the on position for a few seconds to let the fuel rail pressurise then turn the key to the start position and enjoy listening to the beautiful v8 burble.

[DieselLSE]

Hi Anthony,
Three things:
1. Radiator If you haven't done it recently, I'd strongly advise you to have the radiator flushed. Even from this distance, I'll bet that it is at least 20% blocked! Don't rely on an observed apparent flow, I've seen many that looked OK but turned out to be up to 50% blocked.
The radiator in a P38 is easy to remove, but due to the plastic headers can only be safely flushed and repaired a few times before a replacement is necessary. Don't allow the repairer to block any leaking tubes as the motor needs all the cooling it can get from the somewhat under sized radiator.
2. Central locking Make sure you leave the windows open when you connect the battery. Or if the windows are up, leave the front doors open and make sure you lower the front windows before you shut the doors. If you have the doors shut and the key in the ignition when you reconnect the battery, the alarm ECU may think the car is being stolen and lock everything up and sound the alarm. You can stop it by disconnecting the battery, but then you are locked out of the car!
Just be prepared for this.
3. EAS The EAS will start the vehicle compressor to fill the 9 litre air reservoir and airbags. This could take up to 15 minutes. If you have a compressor handy (with dry filtered air) and the necessary fittings, you can partially pre-fill the reservoir and each airbag. This takes the strain off the vehicle compressor as it only needs to run for a few minutes.
Once you are up and running, I'd give serious consideration to completely flushing out the ABS system with new brake fluid. Just sitting around, the hygroscopic fluid will still have absorbed moisture from the surrounding air. Make sure the place you take it to knows how to bleed the complete system, not just the calipers. It's not hard to do yourself with a mate if you follow the manual scrupulously.
Best of luck,
Don

[Anthony Violi]

Much appreciated thanks Don. I can recall reading that the vehicle needs to be driven up onto curb to help coolant flow, air pockets in lines. I'm not sure exactly my memory doesn't flow that well. Have you heard of people doing this?

[daf11e]

Anthony it might pay to check the hose that flows from the radiator to the expansion tank.....after a year it could have some sediment.

[Keithy P38]

I've heard the "raise the front while bleeding" trick before. I've not used it though. Never had a problem bleeding the air out on my flat driveway. Follow the rave instructions and you'll be fine!

Cheers
Keithy

[DieselLSE]

Agree with Keithy. Fill it slowly as per the manual and let it rest awhile between fills.

[Rob Hse]

I would also have a look around the drivers side carpet at just in front of the console for any water staining or leakage from the heater core...I have a 97 4.6 HSE and a98 4.0 SE that have both sat around for over a year each...the HSE is fine ,however I ran the SE the other day ,and sure enough it started leaking from the core..worth checking for sure!

[Anthony Violi]

Finally got to start the old beast, first pop. I let it run for 30 secs and noticed smoke coming from exhaust manifolds. Could it be the crc maniseal exhaust cement? Not sure if I should start her up again, don't want to break anything.

[mtb_gary]

Anthonyy, is there a possibility the smoke could be from oil deposited from oily hands or dripped on manifolds during topping up the fluids?

[Anthony Violi]

Hi Gary,
I did take care keeping all clean. I will start it up again tomorrow and inspect. I certainly hope you are right.

[Keithy P38]

If it's smoke from the manifolds (and not billowing smoke, just a little heat smoke) and none coming out of the tailpipe, you should be ok. It's probably just gasket cement or old oil burning off.

If it worries you, keep an eye on it, or degrease the engine before your next startup.

Cheers
Keithy

[TheTree]

I little smoke from the manifolds after a rebuild is pretty normal in my experience

Good luck mate!

Steve

[Anthony Violi]

Thanks for the advice gents. Smoke has disappeared and engine is running smooth. As for the EAS, not much is happening. I cannot hear any noise at all and obviously no movement from airbags. What can I do?

[Keithy P38]

How long did you wait to allow the pump to charge the tank up before you closed a door?

Cheers
Keithy

[Anthony Violi]

Thanks Keithy,
I closed the door and took my foot off the brake. Embarrassed and elated! I have been longing for this moment, finally the airbags fill and the car raises. YES!! Oh what a feeling Range Rover.
Waiting for my new transmission plug, fill with oil and go for a drive.

[Keithy P38]

Good work mate!

[Anthony Violi]

Pumped my brake 4 times after brake accumulator stopped buzzing and it started buzzing again. The brake looses pressure each time. Is there a rebuild kit I can buy?

[TheTree]

Most likely you need to replace the brake accumulator

That's the black dome shaped thing on top of the brake pump

Steve

[Anthony Violi]

Drove car 50 metres up the road today, transmission hesitating and no acceleration. Realised not enough fluid, level was very low. Now topped up and running smoothly.
Would I have done damage driving up the road and back with very low fluid level?

[Pierre]

Unlikely. Keep us posted..

[Anthony Violi]

Vehicle seems to be running well. I have changed the brake accumulator. Next on the list is new pads, discs machined, replace worn caliper seals and perhaps a caliper piston. Hopefully once all completed and brake system bled properly, I should no longer have spongey brakes. Fingers crossed.