Removing rear Welch plug(s?)

[Shakey]

I assume I just bash the bottom one out like the ones on the side (although I'm not actually sure it needs replacing), is the white one at the top supposed to be removable?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/868.jpg

[Homestar]

The bottom one will punch out - hit it with the punch close to one edge and push it in - once you do this you can use a pair of pliers to pull it out.

The top white one is an aluminium threaded plug - I would replace it as it will probably be quite corroded. Last one I did had to be drilled and chiseled out, then the thread cleaned up (use a thread file) then fit a new plug. I think it is 1 1/4" BSP.

If it's not a plug, I think it could be a disk - I think there were a couple of different ways these were done depending on the year. I'm sure someone else maybe able to clarify this.

[schuy1]

If the motors history is unknown replace that alloy plug, and the 1s in the head, under the rocker cover, and the 1s on the side too. Otherwise Murphy will be riding your coat tails! :D They look good but will corrode inside out. If the 1s under the rockers go it fills your sump with the coolant!! The rear welsh plug can be either a disc or a cup type, have seen them both on same year motors.
Cheers Scott

[Shakey]

So how are the disc ones removed then, that white one seems completely flat (the one on the side was raised that was 1in BSPT)?

[schuy1]

They are removed just the same as the cup type, a punch and hammer on the edge, replace with a cup 1 what ever it is though. I always had trouble getting the disc to seal. Yes the alumin 1 is either poured in molten or it has been peened flat to seal. With a new 1 use stag on it and that will seal without peening.
Cheers Scott

[Blknight.aus]

if its a disc type you just punch it out but as with the one on the block hit it at 3/9 or it will drive in and hit on the iron works behind it before it turns enough for you to grab it.

if its the plug type.

good luck, much abuse with a mild steel fine point chisel, yes mild steel, you dont want to hurt the cast iron.

then with a dremel cutter, then with a fine wire wheel to clean out the last of the threads..

if its one of those abortion aluminium plugs...

once you finally beat it out you will need to rework the sealing/mounting surface as it will be more pitted than the Ex Miss Jolie.

[Shakey]

Is the fact that it is flush likely to mean it's a disc type, and if so why on earth didn't they use the same style as the one below?!

[schuy1]

"why on earth didn't they use the same style as the one below?!" Simple answer......Its a landrover!!!!!! :D:D Seriously though in the pic it looks to be alloy, I have only seen the disc's in the lower position in the block, not the head, not saying they dont turn up else where though.
Cheers Scott

[Blknight.aus]

"why on earth didn't they use the same style as the one below?!" Simple answer......Its a landrover!!!!!! :D:D Seriously though in the pic it looks to be alloy, I have only seen the disc's in the lower position in the block, not the head, not saying they dont turn up else where though.
Cheers Scott

semi uncommon mod, when the ally eats away enough of the head that you cant rework or seal the thread on a normal plug then you broach it out oversize with a reamer and put in the plug..

[schuy1]

Thats the thing. Back in the day these were only really in the hands of farmers, running any sort of inhibitor to prevent corrosion was admitting you were into witch craft and risked at the very least a dunking in the village pond! :D :D Or thats how it seemed to be. I can remember when I was changing the coolant in our old rover and my grandfather saw me tipping in some Castrol radiator oil, I got a right ear bashing on waste of time and money and didnt need stuff apart from tank water! Still remember that. I laughed at him and just did it, I always have used additive in all my gear, Just had a big day changing coolants in the road bike, the quad, and the deefer, all got the 50/50 green treatment! :)
Cheers Scott