CDL sensor wiring on 2002 TD5

[Cloughy]

I have just had a CDL fitted to my transfer case, but am unable to find the wiring and plug on the wiring loom to connect to the sender switch on the TC.
Where do I look for the wiring and plug, or was the wiring not included in the loom for 2002 production vehicles.

I am hoping someone out there has the answer.

Cheers
Cloughy

[ChookD2]

Well I could be wrong (usually am) but, as the CDL was discontinued and removed from the transfer case altogether after 'mid 2000? then perhaps the harness was modified as well to delete the wiring no longer required.

I'm sure someone with far more knowledge will way in and explain it better.

Cheers

Ray

[Cloughy]

Thanks Ray, but I do think they retained the CDL engagement wiring in the harness - the wiring is still in the harness for the transmission temperature sensor (as I discovered yesterday whilst looking for the CDL circuit).

Cloughy

[biggin]

My 2002 model had the wiring for the CDL and the high/low switch.
However, the new transfer case that was installed had no facility for the high/low switch, as it came from a different model land rover.
I end up rigging up a magnet and reed switch onto the high/low gear selector lever underneath the leather thingy, then used the existing wiring. Five years later, I haven't had an issue with it. Anyway, good luck to you, it's a great bit of gear.
PS. Don't forget to cut the wire at the ECU.

[Cloughy]

Thanks Biggin,

All good with the high/low switch - all is as original, just the CDL sensor that I need to connect.

[PhilipA]

Look up my thread from a couple of months ago.

The connector to connect the wiring is under the console below the window switches. I give the number in the thread.

I added a switch to the window panel to enable start without ABS and HDC with the switch enable or with the CDL indicator + ABS +HDC with teh switch disabled.
You cannot enable the ABS etc if started with the CDL engaged unless you turn off and restart.
Regards Philip A
Google down the bottom of the page.
I am adding CDL to my 2002. ***** of a job (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/232344-i-am-adding-cdl-my-2002-job.html)
or go to about page 3 of all my posts

[Cloughy]

Phil,
Thanks for your post and info, you have answered all my questions.:)
I wont be able to attack it until late May or early June as I will be O/Seas, but will advise when I get back and have completed the job.
Cloughy

[gazk]

The 2002 (and later 2001) transfer case wiring loom does not have the CDL switch wiring fitted. You need to get a harness from a pre 2002 or 2003/04 model. 2003/04 models have two CDL switches. Note: The manual transmission harness is different to the auto transmission harness. For the CDL switching to work properly in conjunction with traction control, and not have to cut a wire, use the later version of the SLABS ECU from a 2003/04 model.

[ozscott]

I had it set up without the wire cut mod and it was a pain in the arse and also i never found a situation where having CDL locked and TC turned off was an advantage. Wire cut is easy and was a good mod. I had to use a switch (a second HDC switch as it happens) to tell the SLABS ECU that the vehcile is in low range. Mine is an 01 build and all wiring and connectors were there for CDL light switxh. Cheers

[PhilipA]

The 2002 (and later 2001) transfer case wiring loom does not have the CDL switch wiring fitted

Just to be clear the wiring is fitted to the console, but not to the switch. You have to make up a small loom from the switch up to the console to the blue/green? and another to an earth.

The 2001-2002 will work with traction control as long as you start the engine before activating CDL, or if you put a switch in the circuit you can start then press the switch.
Regards Philip A

[Cloughy]

Philip,

I understood that from your past post - but thanks all the same for clarifying it.
I have not yet set up a means of engaging/disengaging the CDL (this is work in progress in my head). It will most likely be mechanically selected from inside the vehicle and not electrical.
I did have some earlier thoughts about dual solenoids to engage/disengage (linked to an "on/off/on" self-centering rocker switch on the dash or console), which would work, but think there is limited room to install. The other electrical methods requiring window motors etc are too unreliable.

Cloughy

[PhilipA]

Before I decided to buy the factory linkage, I toyed with ideas and the best I came up with was an electric linear actuator which are pretty waterproof , or so they say.

You would have to make up a triangular mount to fit the three bolts on top of the transfer nose with the actuator pointing forwards where there is room.
The throw is not much on the arm, but the actuator would have to be reasonably strong and would have to be single point mounted as the arm describes an arc as it engages .
You can control it with a dual throw switch through 2 relays.

The hardest part would be making the throw arm ,as you have to cut and make a parallel sided "keyway" to fit on the pivot, and that can take hours trust me as I have done it for a kickdown cable. And the arm would have to rise to clear the actuator mount.

Just google Linear actuator and you will see lots of them and on Ebay.
Regards Philip A

[ozscott]

When camping at places like flinders Beach at Straddie you are constantly using the vehicle...getting water, fishing etc. I found that i would forget to disengage CDL and then would start and have no TCS until i disengaged and shut it down and restarted...and it can be a pain simply because on an LR CDL (ot at least the switch) doesnt fully disengage at will and requires some reverse or steering wheel shake to assist it.

Cheers

[Cloughy]

You have me thinking again Philip. May also be an option, and the cost of a lineal actuator would not be that great.
Water ingression may be an issue, but only time would tell.
If no one else has tried this method, I may have a go in the interest of another option for engaging CDL. I have no problem fabricating the mounts and fully understand the mechanics and parameters.
We will never know if we don't try!
I would be interested to hear if anyone has tried this before.
Cloughy

[sierrafery]

see this Discovery 2: CDL Actuator Installation - 4x4 Community Forum (http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php't=157473)

[PhilipA]

That's pretty well what I envisaged but with water resistance. I don't like the idea of the solonoid much just from a durability and water resistance perspective.

BTW one thing that will help fitting a linear actuator is that the selector fork is sprung so that the actuator can have full travel without the CDL being locked, and it will drop in with movement of the shaft. Ie the lever can be at full travel without the gears dropping in.

This should alleviate the issue of stalling before full travel is reached if the maths are done correctly.
Regards Philip A

[onebob]

You have me thinking again Philip. May also be an option, and the cost of a lineal actuator would not be that great.
Water ingression may be an issue, but only time would tell.
If no one else has tried this method, I may have a go in the interest of another option for engaging CDL. I have no problem fabricating the mounts and fully understand the mechanics and parameters.
We will never know if we don't try!
I would be interested to hear if anyone has tried this before.
Cloughy

i have this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px4MjdeUmiY

[Chubbs878]

Before I decided to buy the factory linkage, I toyed with ideas and the best I came up with was an electric linear actuator which are pretty waterproof , or so they say.

You would have to make up a triangular mount to fit the three bolts on top of the transfer nose with the actuator pointing forwards where there is room.
The throw is not much on the arm, but the actuator would have to be reasonably strong and would have to be single point mounted as the arm describes an arc as it engages .
You can control it with a dual throw switch through 2 relays.

The hardest part would be making the throw arm ,as you have to cut and make a parallel sided "keyway" to fit on the pivot, and that can take hours trust me as I have done it for a kickdown cable. And the arm would have to rise to clear the actuator mount.

Just google Linear actuator and you will see lots of them and on Ebay.
Regards Philip A

I have been working on an actuator. I had to draft 2 adapters: one for motor gear and one for diff-lock stud. Then I had to draw up a bracket to mount on the case, hold the motor and contain the adapter. The bracket is bent in 2 places in a "U" formation for strength. The 2 adapters are held opposite each other on a piece of pipe. The pipes length and bracket height are related so that the diff-lock stud and case remains standard and no mods have to be made. It is a true bolt-on mod. The motor is nearly identical the D2 window motor I originally intended to use except that it is beefier and has more power and torque. It was possibly a transfer case shifter motor from an unknown vehicle. Pics aren't amazing but you get the idea. Only thing left to the project is limiting switches to control the radius at which the motor gear is allowed to turn each way without rotating too much and causing fault with TC mechanisms.

[Chubbs878]

I have been working on an actuator. I had to draft 2 adapters: one for motor gear and one for diff-lock stud. Then I had to draw up a bracket to mount on the case, hold the motor and contain the adapter. The bracket is bent in 2 places in a "U" formation for strength. The 2 adapters are held opposite each other on a piece of pipe. The pipes length and bracket height are precise so that the diff-lock stud and case remains standard and no mods have to be made. It is a true bolt-on mod. The motor is nearly identical the D2 window motor I originally intended to use except that it is beefier and has more power and torque. It was possibly a transfer case shifter motor from an unknown vehicle. Pics aren't amazing but you get the idea. Only thing left to the project is limiting switches to control the radius at which the motor gear is allowed to turn each way without rotating too much and causing fault with TC mechanisms.
Better pic

[ozscott]

Wow...i thought my push pull T handle was advanced...

Cheers

[Chubbs878]

I engineer things a little more advanced than this at work all day, this really wasn't difficult at all. If I knew more about electrical I would already have this fully-functioning, video clip posted and putting kits together for retail. I had to put the project on hold while I made a few other mods to the truck. Speaking of that, for you Aussies that own a gas-powered Disco, I advise that you convert the factory cooling system to the inline-thermostat type which a lot of us on LRF.com have done. Its a substantial improvement. I also added the factory engine oil cooler to my 2003. 03-04 MY were not sold with the cooler so that's another one that we are trying to make the community more aware of. Anyway, back to TransXCase! I will update you guys when I have installed the limiting switches, as it will be legit at that point.