Perentie Clutch bleed procedure.

[dranoweb]

So... I drove all the way to work in 2nd today as I suddenly found myself with a barely usable clutch and no fluid in the resivoir.

What size brake line spanner do I need,

And more importantly, any tips on bleeding/diagnosing the clutch?

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Chris078]

did you find out where the fluid went? If you can't see any leaks between the master and slave cylinder, it's probably in the bell housing.
There is a drain bung at the bottom of the bell housing you can remove to check (obviously keep your face out from underneath it when you remove the plug)

You'll probably find it's the slave that has failed (seems a very common issue with Perenties due to them sitting for extended periods of time)

You can get a genuine Lockheed slave for $90 or a cheapie for $45 or so.
Bleeding is a bitch, prepare you left thigh for much pumping of the pedal and 45 mins of trying to get air out.

If it turns out to be the master, I just replaced mine and can give you a few tips to save time and make it easier to replace. - Interestingly a genuine TRW master is cheap at $65!

[dranoweb]

Still at work, unable to check yet.
Trying to find a spare slave at present.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[flagg]

Replace the master at the same time - twice I've had them go in succession..

[dranoweb]

update, have procured a replacement slave - with luck, will arrive tomorrow.

No visible signs of external leaking so I'm guessing it's in the bell housing.

I understand this is a common issue.

looking at it, bleefing seems like it would be easier with the slave removed?

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[dranoweb]

Replace the master at the same time - twice I've had them go in succession..

I have neither the funds or time to do so immediately. I have one day to complete repairs in between work and other essential duties.

I can't get hold of a master locally.

I bled the existing slave tonight and got air and some of the dirtiest fluid i've ever seen.

Clutch feels much better but I have oil weeping from the bell housing join, so I'm just doing some homework on which drain plug is safe to remove.

Austpost says express shipping will have a spate slave here tomorrow, and I'm trading in my brownie points to knock off early to get a start done. Sat avo is deadline.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Bearman]

I have neither the funds or time to do so immediately. I have one day to complete repairs in between work and other essential duties.

I can't get hold of a master locally.

I bled the existing slave tonight and got air and some of the dirtiest fluid i've ever seen.

Clutch feels much better but I have oil weeping from the bell housing join, so I'm just doing some homework on which drain plug is safe to remove.

Austpost says express shipping will have a spate slave here tomorrow, and I'm trading in my brownie points to knock off early to get a start done. Sat avo is deadline.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app



If you can remotely afford it, change the master at the same time. They are cheap and are used on many applications including box trailers etc. Approx $40. from memory. It will probably save you doing it all again shortly as they are a bitch to bleed. Remove the drain bung from the flywheel housing (15/16") and leave it out. Only put it back in when you are going to do some deep water crossings. Make sure you get the correct slave cylinder ( 1" bore). Cheers....Brian

[dranoweb]

This is what's coming out the slave bleeder:

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[dranoweb]

Checked the bell housing drain, very little emerged, but buildup on the plug the same colour as the junk coming out the slave bleeder

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Bearman]

This is what's coming out the slave bleeder:

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

That's water contamination and oxidised alum combined. Pretty normal stuff.:(

[dranoweb]

In response to master, ill be replacing both again soon after my return, but my budget and time has been eaten by pinion seal replacement.

also they are surprisingly hard to find in a town with 6 auto parts stores.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Bearman]

Why don't you save some money and do the pinion seal yourself. It's pretty easy and you can do it in a couple of hours easily. If you are not sure I can help you through it. You might be able to afford the new M/C if you do it yourself.:) Let me know if you need help with obtaining parts - I can get them to you within a few days, even from here. Cheers...Brain

[dranoweb]

so can anyone lend any advice on how not to loose the push rod when removing/fitting the slave cylinder?

I'm looking at diagrams, and it looks like the plastic clip on the work cup is easy to break.

is this just a case of patience and minimal force?

[Bearman]

so can anyone lend any advice on how not to loose the push rod when removing/fitting the slave cylinder?

I'm looking at diagrams, and it looks like the plastic clip on the work cup is easy to break.

is this just a case of patience and minimal force?

It's not that hard, when you undo the 2 13mm studs that hold the slave onto the flywheel housing move it out a bit until you can see the pushrod, grab it with your fingers or long nosed pliers and then withdraw the slave cylinder. The plastic clip that holds the pushrod onto the the clutch fork is pretty tough and should be OK.

[weeds]

So... I drove all the way to work in 2nd today as I suddenly found myself with a barely usable clutch and no fluid in the resivoir.

What size brake line spanner do I need,

And more importantly, any tips on bleeding/diagnosing the clutch?

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app



Why don't you change gears........easy enough and a good skill to have up your sleeve......just need to revs right

I drove my 110 from cooma 60th to Brisbane without a clutch

Also drove an army 6x6 from Brisbane to Adelaide only using to clutch to take off and stop.........boredom sets in pretty quick following a convoy barely doing 80km/hr......I one the challenge.

[dranoweb]

Why don't you save some money and do the pinion seal yourself. It's pretty easy and you can do it in a couple of hours easily. If you are not sure I can help you through it. You might be able to afford the new M/C if you do it yourself.:) Let me know if you need help with obtaining parts - I can get them to you within a few days, even from here. Cheers...Brain

It needs to survive 4 days and then the whole lot is getting replaced with no expense spared.

I should mention that I'm getting the pinion clearance adjusted too, to fix the backlash. No job for an amature.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[dranoweb]

Why don't you change gears........easy enough and a good skill to have up your sleeve......just need to revs right

I drove my 110 from cooma 60th to Brisbane without a clutch

Also drove an army 6x6 from Brisbane to Adelaide only using to clutch to take off and stop.........boredom sets in pretty quick following a convoy barely doing 80km/hr......I one the challenge.

Well work is only a couple of k's and while i'm not bad at matching revs, a stone cold box doesn't help.

I didn't get a perentie to win races, but maccas drive through without a clutch was "fun" to say the least.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[dranoweb]

It's not that hard, when you undo the 2 13mm studs that hold the slave onto the flywheel housing move it out a bit until you can see the pushrod, grab it with your fingers or long nosed pliers and then withdraw the slave cylinder. The plastic clip that holds the pushrod onto the the clutch fork is pretty tough and should be OK.

Pretty close to what I guessed.
thanks heaps, might be the key to the whole job.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Bearman]

It needs to survive 4 days and then the whole lot is getting replaced with no expense spared.

I should mention that I'm getting the pinion clearance adjusted too, to fix the backlash. No job for an amature.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Backlash in the rear diff is not caused by the pinion flange but the culprit is usually drive flanges or side gear thrust washers, more often drive flange wear. When replacing the pinion seal all you have to do is ensure the nut is retightened to the same position.

[dranoweb]

This point is exactly why I'm having someone else do that bit.

I couldn't source crush tubes for it, and I understand that's a normal work around.

To specify more correctly - I'm getting the backlash "checked and adjusted if neccesary" by a much more experienced individual.

It's predominantly about time not skill.
I work full time and run a business on the side, my services have been in very high demand of late, and my distant daughter's birthday is looming, hence the impending travel.

I only have a small gap in work to exploit and I've been flat out making sure i have the essential emergency gear on board, like you know spare tire and jack etc.

I'm pretty worn out of weeks of knocking off at 5 and working like a headless chook till dark and pouring my wages into this thing.

In short, I'm sore, tired and just want to get to my destination without major issue.

in my experience this mentality breeds shortcuts, and causes deadly mistakes.

Exactly the time to pay an expert.



Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Bearman]

Your choice mate, all I am saying is you are probably paying some $100 per hour for something you could do yourself in a short time. Salisbury diffs are pretty bulletproof and the backlash is usually in the areas that I have mentioned and not the pinion' and you don't have to replace the crush tube or "collapsible washer" when you replace the seal if you know how to do it.

[dranoweb]

I have no doubt I'm going to have to do this again at some point.
so I'll be learning then.

I also don't pay $100 an hour for the work as this particular mechanic is also in need of my services - and beer.

I managed the output shaft seal on the handbrake drum a while back without major issue - but it's not something I'd like to have to do too often.

In either case I see the wisdom in your words.

[Chris078]

This is what's coming out the slave bleeder:

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app


That's some pretty foul fluid.
The drain bung to remove is the big nut on the bottom of the bell housing ( from memory it's either 1" or just under)

Have you had the brake fluid checked at all. It might be worth doing as they are supposed to be changed at the same time per the service schedule, so
it might be in a similar condition!

[dranoweb]

Brakes were bled same day i picked it up a few months ago. Fluid looks good.

Little to no fluid in bell housing drain.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[dranoweb]

Replaced slave cylinder today.
Drained line completely before insstalling new one.

Was able to grasp push rod with needle nose pliers without issue.

New cylinder works well but I still have alot of free play in the pedal.

I removed the cover plate on the master and checked for loose nuts, there are none.

The free play would appear to be in the master cylinder - so I'm guessing that will get replaced after my trip.

I'm a little worried I may have dropped a fork pin though, as the was fine one morning and not the next.

However, the badly leaking slave and total lack of fluid may have been soley responsible.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[Dervish]

New cylinder works well but I still have alot of free play in the pedal.

I removed the cover plate on the master and checked for loose nuts, there are none.

The free play would appear to be in the master cylinder - so I'm guessing that will get replaced after my trip.


Situation normal; free play is always in the master cylinder. Here's the adjusting procedure and it also shows the freeplay at the other end of the pushrod.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/744.jpg

[JDNSW]

......
The drain bung to remove is the big nut on the bottom of the bell housing ( from memory it's either 1" or just under)
.......

I use a 15/16" spanner, but I suspect it is a metric size that is one I don't have in ring-open end.

John

[dranoweb]

I used a 24mm ring spanner.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

[TexOz]

What brand of clutch fluid did you use?