Low power in a td5 (again)

[steako]

Just a quick question I have a 2001 td5 and its gutless to say the least. Only had the car two weeks but I am sure something is wrong. After using the search button have been through a number of check like disconnecting the MAF etc no difference. Have replaced the injector loom harness and flushed the wires. Also given it a full service. I have noticed the FPR is leaking ? I also started the bleed function by pressing accelerate pedal 5 times. Only problem is it just kept going. Didn't seem to want stop. Just wanting to know if anyone has had similar problems with lack of power etc
Thanks

[bsperka]

Waste gate stuck perhaps? That is, no turbo boost? Check to see if it is moving.

[steako]

Waste gate moves but is tight. No splits in hoses new silicon i/c hoses fitted. Will get codes cleared and re checked just wondering if its common for FPR to cause low power ?

[sierrafery]

Check fuse F2 in engine bay to rule it out, though a certain answer would be given by a tester to see how the management works, bad AAP, MAP, IAT or FT readings can make it powerless, so does a faulty wastegate modulator, some late 2001 modells were fitted with CAT so if your's have one this can be an issue too if it's clogged.... hard to diagnose it without a tester

[bsperka]

My original suggestion was going to be that the modulator may be faulty, but doesn't this normally cause over boost? Has it ever caused the wastegate to open prematurely if faulty?

[sierrafery]

My original suggestion was going to be that the modulator may be faulty, but doesn't this normally cause over boost? Has it ever caused the wastegate to open prematurely if faulty?
You are right, in most cases it causes overboost cos it doesnt open at all then there's no pressure on the wategate actuator but i've seen cases when it was stuck opened then the wastegate will open sooner cos it gets the full boost from the beginning like when you bypass the modulator... the management of the D2 is made to work with that modulator as to bleed pressure into the intake at low throttle so an opened one will make it sluggish especially at low revs... also if the problem is with the modulator's coil it can blow fuse F2 and this is the feed for the MAF too

[Graeme]

Waste gate stuck perhaps? That is, no turbo boost? Check to see if it is moving.

If the previous owner only idled around then the waste-gate may be very stiff to move and is stuck wide open from the last time it was given a boot-full. Disconnect the rod and check that it moves freely.

[rangieman]

Turbo hose ;)

[steako]

I have cHecked the fuse all good. For anyone who knows Brisbane the gateway bridge has been my test track on the way home from work. Even with a run up and sitting on 80 the car will slow to 60 I worked it hard to test and revs went up to 3500 to 3700 still doing 60. It will rev just not making power.

[harro]

I have cHecked the fuse all good. For anyone who knows Brisbane the gateway bridge has been my test track on the way home from work. Even with a run up and sitting on 80 the car will slow to 60 I worked it hard to test and revs went up to 3500 to 3700 still doing 60. It will rev just not making power.

Sounds like it must be an auto?
And that may be where the problem is.

Or the clutch is slipping badly.

[bsperka]

Could be low on fluid if auto. Easy enough to check. Engine must be running before opening auto fill plug. Fluid must be coming out. Top up until a stream of fluid (not a dribble) is coming out.

[sierrafery]

IMO if you have access to nanocom better save a live data log from a journey and post it here then we'll see, if no fault codes logged and the sensor readings are within accepted limits it means it's a fuel supply issue and then you can blame the FPR, a leaking one can't be a good thing cos it's there to bleed the excess of pressure(above 4 Bar) into the return and if the diaphragm is shot (which in most cases causes the leak) it will let more pressure into the return and the pressure in the rail will drop.

[bsperka]

Fyi: Pm has been sent to Steako re this. Awaiting a reply.

[rapserv]

small rubber hose on side of metal section on turbo hose that goes to the wastegate controller can sometimes perish and crack which will cause a lack of power... difficult to see and worth a look :)

[steako]

I did flush the auto last weekend and it could be the problem as I have only driven the twice before work was done I had no reference point will check the level tomorrow. It's quite a process changing the oil and filter on that thing I tell ya. Thanks for the help

[rob tilbury]

I have 15psi of boost ,, my TD5 Auto runs out of puff at 110kph , > from 10kph to 100kph its fine ,, after 110 has nothing ,,,,,, slug when you need to overtake ,,, really it bloody dangerous

I have EGR removed ,, front pope is a straight tru ,
I wouldnt want to drive it to dawin and back ,,
Its just a town car as only had it 2 months and very dissapointed ,,,, >
My D1 landy was a far better car ,,,,,to much electronics ,,,,,
hope you find the drama with yours ,, i have given my D2 to my wife and brought a Land cruiser ,,,,

Yes i love it !
:(

[harro]

I have 15psi of boost ,, my TD5 Auto runs out of puff at 110kph , > from 10kph to 100kph its fine ,, after 110 has nothing ,,,,,, slug when you need to overtake ,,, really it bloody dangerous

I have EGR removed ,, front pope is a straight tru ,
I wouldnt want to drive it to dawin and back ,,
Its just a town car as only had it 2 months and very dissapointed ,,,, >
My D1 landy was a far better car ,,,,,to much electronics ,,,,,
hope you find the drama with yours ,, i have given my D2 to my wife and brought a Land cruiser ,,,,

Yes i love it !
:(

Try disconnecting the MAF.
If it runs better- new MAF
That's where I would start.
IMO the td5 is a far superior engine to the tdi
And pretty easy to troubleshoot once you become familiar with it.
There is only a few sensors that can give you issues.

[sierrafery]

Change that leaking FPR.

[rob tilbury]

I have cHecked the fuse all good. For anyone who knows Brisbane the gateway bridge has been my test track on the way home from work. Even with a run up and sitting on 80 the car will slow to 60 I worked it hard to test and revs went up to 3500 to 3700 still doing 60. It will rev just not making power.

3500 to 3700 still doing @60 Kph. sounds like 3rd gear no toque converter lock up ,,

I would say to drop 20K`s up a hill my tests would be
In order of PITA and $$$$>

#1 check boost ,,,, put a boost gauge I run 15psi ,,, Now from the waste gate there is a pipe ,, (its pressure ) it goes to a alloy box that box drops the diesel if it spikes the pressure ,,, ( its a over boost device ,) i bypass mine ,,but have a boost gauge so i can see what its running at ,,,,,,,

#2 sorry but would need to be a compression test ,,, A full PITA = Pain In Th Ar$e

#3Fuel pressure test to make sure there is enough pressure to pop the fuel into the cyl`s when they open ,


#4 Injectors stuffed ( any smoke ?) best seen at night with a cars headlights behind you ,,,,, should be a little not bellowing

#5 Blocked exhaust ,,, collapsed muffler ( happens more than you think )

[rob tilbury]

Try disconnecting the MAF.
If it runs better- new MAF
That's where I would start.
IMO the td5 is a far superior engine to the tdi
And pretty easy to troubleshoot once you become familiar with it.
There is only a few sensors that can give you issues.

changed the MAF ,,, didnt do much ,, lucky have a mate with a TD5 his is loads better but he is running 19psi ,,,, thats a bit high for me ,,,, with no EGT

[sierrafery]

...have a mate with a TD5 his is loads better but he is running 19psi ,,,, thats a bit high for me ,,,, with no EGT
shouldn't be too high cos the D2 is set to 18.85psi from factory and can be adjusted to 20 from the wastegate rod without any other ad-on, also the higher the boost is the lower the EGT goes... if you have only 15 it's too low so that's the problem...did you clean the MAP sensor, do you still have the EGR? ...that's why without propper diagnostic is hard to give an answer cos if the AAP(airbox) sensor fails the ECU goes to default of max 15psi boost

[rob tilbury]

shouldn't be too high cos the D2 is set to 18.85psi from factory and can be adjusted to 20 from the wastegate rod without any other ad-on, also the higher the boost is the lower the EGT goes... if you have only 15 it's too low so that's the problem...did you clean the MAP sensor, do you still have the EGR? ...that's why without propper diagnostic is hard to give an answer cos if the AAP(airbox) sensor fails the ECU goes to default of max 15psi boost

No EGR
clean Map
The pressure spike sensor disconnected
will set to 20 PSI and see if the wife can kill it ,,
cheers for that

[sierrafery]

what's "presure spike sensor"?

[PhilipA]

what's "presure spike sensor"?
It looks like the Op is referring to the boost controller which works about opposite to his understanding.
I know you know, but for the OP the boost controller is electronically controlled but otherwise like a Dawes valve that is fitted to Nissans to stop boost bleed at lower boost and therefore improve boost at low boost levels by isolating the wastegate until a set boost level is achieved.
Regards Philip A

[steako]

Thanks for the help fellas, managed to get around 1.5 l in to the box. Haven't driven it yet will fix FPR leak first and then see where we are at. Not giving up plenty of happy d2 owners out there and I am/ will be one. Different topic but anyone use the icarsoft 930 etc for diagnostics?
Ps also going to do a stall test and check or remove centre muffler

[bsperka]

I havn't got one. But check that it is ok for the TD5. Website just indicates LR, not which models. Whilst the TD5 has an OBDII socket, it isn't OBDII compliant. V8 is. That's why the nanocom is so popular for TD5s.

[sierrafery]

Forget about that iCarsoft tool, when it comes to Td5 it's wasted money

[steako]

Just wanted to update those who have given advice. I think I may have had a couple of compounding problems.... Haha always the way making it hard to diagnose a single fault. I took of the heat shield to check waste gate and boom warped manifold or at least blown gasket on three cylinders. i had the manifold linished as it wasn't that bad, studs on cylinder 5 have been upgraded already. Replaced gasket etc and while I was at it change boost controller just because there seemed to be a lot of oil ( exhaust back pressure I believe). Started the car and warmed it up a bit sounded like there was and exhaust leak still? I got underneath and engine side of muffler was cooking hot but the tail pipe side I could hold and was just warm at best. Centre muffler gone. I will cut it open and see how it looks but pretty sure that's the problem.

[bsperka]

Sounds like a bit of a trial. Hope you get it all sorted.