Odometer flashing

[Griefy39]

Hi I was wondering anyone can help me
Discovery two the odometer is flashing I talked to a mechanic who connected to the computer he cleared several errors . One wouldn't go what wouldn't go away which says engines be has exceeded parameters or something like that any help
would be great fully appreciated

[ozscott]

You can fix with Test book or Nano etc. I have gotten used to mine!

[rob tilbury]

sounds like the odometer and bcm have different K`s on them , there is a setting in the nano that you can make the BCM not check the dash Kilometres , Your car maybe has had the dash swapped .

[DazzaTD5]

As Rob has mentioned, the IP cluster has been changed out, it needs to be set with a diagnostic tool of some description...

While thats a vague answer, beside the Land Rover diagnostic tool and the Snap-on tool (both of which will set the IP cluster) I've not used any other for that.

Regards
Daz

[rob tilbury]

How many K`s has your car got ?
Will be interesting as my ODO says 195,000 but BCM shows 293,000 ,,
Another dodge from the seller

[sierrafery]

The "odometer error warning" must be disabled with dedicated tester in BCU settings that's all.

as about that:
One wouldn't go what wouldn't go away which says engines be has exceeded parameters or something like that any help
IMO better find other mechanic

[sierrafery]

...BCM shows 293,000
it's BCU not BCM;) , important is how do you know it shows that figure cos AFAIK there's no link between any tester ant that memory

[Tins]

As Rob has mentioned, the IP cluster has been changed out,

Nope. Mine did it all by itself, after I had the car about three years.

[sierrafery]

It's possible if a speedo corrector was connected after the BCU.

[Griefy39]

Thanks guys it has286000 on the clock so it's done a few
It sounds like I need to take it to someone who specialises to figure it out
Does anyone know of anyone I'm in rockdale area Sydney
Thanks for the responses

[DazzaTD5]

Nope. Mine did it all by itself, after I had the car about three years.

oh...hrmm... then I dont know... :p

Ive only had this when changing out the IP cluster, which btw will show the Km's of what the BCM/BCU has listed and not what the IP cluster had on it last.

Regards
Daz

[johnp38]

Mine has this annoying issue as well. Looks like a while b4 I get a nanocom, so in the meantime is there a nice person who is knowlegeable with a nanocom that can plug in and fix this and check for any stored faults as well (I have severely delayed throttle issue too).

By nice person I don't mean free (unless I can swap a favour). I was quoted $150 for an odo bcu resync, $50 is more my price for a 5 minute 'professional' job as I acknowledge a workshop has overheads just sitting there waiting for business, but $150 is a bit over the top (in my opinion anyway, yours may differ if you own a workshop).

Also can anyone tell me what happens if the battery is disconnected? Does it always entail an odo bcu resync?

Are there any adelaide northern suburbs independants for land rover?

Google isn't my best friend. Thanks.

[Tins]

By nice person I don't mean free (unless I can swap a favour). I was quoted $150 for an odo bcu resync, $50 is more my price for a 5 minute 'professional' job as I acknowledge a workshop has overheads just sitting there waiting for business, but $150 is a bit over the top (in my opinion anyway, yours may differ if you own a workshop).

$150???? Bloke near me, who isn't known for being cheap, did mine for nothing. Didn't take even 5 minutes. But $150?? That's a third of the way to a Nanocom on a group buy. And really, until you get one, ignore the flashing. It doesn't cause any long time issues.


Also can anyone tell me what happens if the battery is disconnected? Does it always entail an odo bcu resync?





No.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Mine has this annoying issue as well. Looks like a while b4 I get a nanocom, so in the meantime is there a nice person who is knowlegeable with a nanocom that can plug in and fix this and check for any stored faults as well (I have severely delayed throttle issue too).

By nice person I don't mean free (unless I can swap a favour). I was quoted $150 for an odo bcu resync, $50 is more my price for a 5 minute 'professional' job as I acknowledge a workshop has overheads just sitting there waiting for business, but $150 is a bit over the top (in my opinion anyway, yours may differ if you own a workshop).

Also can anyone tell me what happens if the battery is disconnected? Does it always entail an odo bcu resync?

Are there any adelaide northern suburbs independants for land rover?

Google isn't my best friend. Thanks.

Question, do you get your mechanical work done by this workshop as they usually do it for free. but garages make their money from working on cars. If the DYIer home mechanic is just using their time and equipment and not getting the work then they will probably charge.

[PhilipA]

I synchronised the BCU and ECU recently on a friends car where he had bought a new used ECU using my Nanocom..

It took about 5 seconds and there was no flashing instrument cluster and AFAIR no difference in Ks shown.

Maybe its different if the BCU has been replaced rather than the ECU but I don't think so.. Maybe the Ks displayed would change.
Regards PhilipA

[johnp38]

Question, do you get your mechanical work done by this workshop as they usually do it for free. but garages make their money from working on cars. If the DYIer home mechanic is just using their time and equipment and not getting the work then they will probably charge.

No they are not my regular workshop, I do my own mechanical and auto electrical work, and I just got this vehicle so have no familiarity with it yet and no scanner to read it as it is not even generic obd2 compliant. I farm out any work that I don't have the tools/equipment to do at home on my vehicle.

My point was $150 is over the top for what I wanted done, not that I wouldn't pay a reasonable price, a pro workshop has overheads. I also said I am happy to pay a nanocom packing aulro member in some way for helping out.

So anyway folks, where is the adelaide northern suburbs land rover familiar indie workshop/backyarder/aulro member located ?

[V8Ian]

No they are not my regular workshop, I do my own mechanical and auto electrical work, and I just got this vehicle so have no familiarity with it yet and no scanner to read it as it is not even generic obd2 compliant. I farm out any work that I don't have the tools/equipment to do at home on my vehicle.

My point was $150 is over the top for what I wanted done, not that I wouldn't pay a reasonable price, a pro workshop has overheads. I also said I am happy to pay a nanocom packing aulro member in some way for helping out.

So anyway folks, where is the adelaide northern suburbs land rover familiar indie workshop/backyarder/aulro member located ?
How far north, Whyalla? [bigwhistle]

[Bohica]

Na, south of Gawler, in Elizabeth. Where the GMH plant I once worked at was.

[Lemo]

Was it like this when you brought it? It's an out of sync with the BCU and IP... either the BCU has higher KM or other way round... At any rate they will eventually sync to the higher KM after 15 or 16 ignition cycles as per RAVE.. (workshop manual)

Cheers Lemo

[Lemo]

Just re read your post and just confirming it’s the KM display that’s flashing? I only ask as you mentioned restricted throttle response...
You can get the auto display in the IP flashing (flashing D) and usually cause it to go into limp mode...
hopefully someone will get it scanned only way you know...
there’s a location map for nanocom owner somewhere in electronic section of the forum that might help locate one...

[johnp38]

I did read that as well, (about the resync after x starts) however after having spent way too much time reading same same info chasing various issues, I stumbled across a post somewhere that even after the odo reading syncs the kays the Instrument Panel still needs to be matched to BCU with diagnostic tool to stop the flashing.

As far as I can tell by reading online the odo doesn't flash if vehicle is in limp home mode, just indicates unmatched IP to BCU

I have tried a different MAP sensor (cheap crap ,out of spec I think) which changed the driving characteristics enough to point to a sensor or multiple sensors issue.

Am waiting on Bosch MAP sensor to arrive so I can at least have a spare on hand even if it isn't the problem.

I have direct turbo outlet to wastegate pipe (bypassing the wastegate modulator), so that may be issue with no grunt up hills at highway speed but priority for now is stopping fuel leak at fuel regulator today then moving on to take off issues when MAP and MAF sensors arrive.

Can leave holding cruising speed alone till last, can't get fines if you can't speed.

Thanks to all that reply, any suggestion can be the one that puts the other ideas together and solves the problem/s.

[johnp38]

Oh,just realized other bit I missed, D is not flashing,

All idiot lights come on with ignition on so globes all working, no idiot lights on when vehicle operating.

[PhilipA]

I have direct turbo outlet to wastegate pipe (bypassing the wastegate modulator), so that may be issue with no grunt up hills

Do you really mean that or do you have a manual wastegate controller?

The turbo will have the wastegate open most of the time in that case and make very little boost.

If you have a manual wastegate controller, no boost is presented to the wastegate diaphragm until the preset boost level eg say 20Lbs per sq inch when it opens and the wastegate then opens limiting the boost to the preset level.

I can only imagine how poorly the car would perform with the setup as you describe.
Regards PhilipA

[johnp38]

Yes the pipe that normally goes into the bottom of the wastegate modulator goes direct to the wastegate actuator.

The top pipe still goes into the inlet just after the MAF and there is a loop pipe from side of modulator into bottom(to keep dirt outI presume) and the wiring is unplugged.

This is how I got hold of it and from reading on this forum I think it may be the culprit causing the up hill loss of go.

There is no EGR present it has the delete pipe and exhaust blank fitted (also as it came). I removed the egr solenoid and its vacuum plumbing to declutter a bit and blocked off the t-piece until I get an inline fitting or complete one piece replacement vacuum hose from alternater to brake booster.

I think I need to stop trawling the net and go wrestle with the leaky fuel pressure regulator b4 another day gets wasted.

[onebob]

Yes the pipe that normally goes into the bottom of the wastegate modulator goes direct to the wastegate actuator.

The top pipe still goes into the inlet just after the MAF and there is a loop pipe from side of modulator into bottom(to keep dirt outI presume) and the wiring is unplugged.

This is how I got hold of it and from reading on this forum I think it may be the culprit causing the up hill loss of go.

There is no EGR present it has the delete pipe and exhaust blank fitted (also as it came). I removed the egr solenoid and its vacuum plumbing to declutter a bit and blocked off the t-piece until I get an inline fitting or complete one piece replacement vacuum hose from alternater to brake booster.

I think I need to stop trawling the net and go wrestle with the leaky fuel pressure regulator b4 another day gets wasted.

With no waste gate modulator you are likely experiencing “waste-gate creep“ especially if the boost has been wound up! ie the waste-gate actuator rod has been shortened. The factory setting is 14 threads visible above the knurled lock nut. I have a near new waste gate modulator that is yours FOC if you want it so you can return to a factory setup to assist diagnosis. I have no need for it because years ago I deleted my WGM and fitted a manual boost controller.
Rob

[johnp38]

The factory setting is 14 threads visible above the knurled lock nut. I have a near new waste gate modulator that is yours FOC if you want it so you can return to a factory setup to assist diagnosis.
Rob

Thanks for the offer Rob, very kind of you.

After actually getting out there this arvo I did manage between distractions to remove the regulator block and replace the fuel pressure regulator (Bosch 0280160575) and the seals. No leaks after doing the 5 pedal push bleed thingy and running it for a bit.

I also rerouted the wastegate modulator plumbing to how it should be, the regulator was still plugged in I must have got confused with the EGR solenoid which was unplugged before I removed it.

So I will road test tomorrow and see what gives. Also will remove the wastegate modulator and bench test before I go any further regarding your generous offer.

Getting a bit off topic from the flashing Odometer !!