Barney - a 1958 Series II

[JDNSW]

Must have misread it! Sorry. Number now corrected

[OneOff]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/342.jpg #332326 - Ventilator Control Mechanism Complete. Quadrant type.

Does anybody have one of these to sell, give away, swap?
they're a bit difficult to find. I have the later ones which I'll use if I have to, but it would be good to have the right one.

[Johnno1969]

The cab of course being the bit you spend the most time looking at, I’m pretty happy with how well it’s come up.




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/157.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/158.jpg



The finish on your vehicle is just fantastic. This is a really amazing job.

[Strongarm]

Just finished reading through the Barney thread Pete, the old landrover has certainly come a long way since you dragged it out of the shed a couple of years ago. I'm sure you told me you were going to "get it running, tidy it up a bit and use it as a farm truck". I guess once you started and got a passion for the resto there was no alternative then go all the way.
Well done mate it is a credit to you. I can't wait to see it running.
Cheers Ian

[OneOff]

Hey Ian, good to see your first post on AULRO was on my thread. [thumbsupbig]

Guilty as charged. What started as a casual affair has gradually intensified into an obsession. Once I finish faffing about with a few bits and bobs, I intend to get it running properly. But clutch and brakes first!

Whenever you're up this way let me know, you and Deb are most welcome to come over and check it out, and stay the night before the return trip if you wish.
Are you making Stinson Park this year?


Pete.




hmmm... I know a bloke what has a couple of old Chamberlain tractors that might need a quick resto... [bigrolf]

[Strongarm]

Hope to get up to the GC again one day Pete, and will definitely look you up when we do.
Not likely to go to Stinson this year, it's full time meals on wheels about the farm here at the moment, bit hard to get away.
Hmmm.... Chamberlain tractors, have got a couple of those. Have gotten involved with the Scrapheap Adventure ride so fixing up old bikes seems to take up my spare time these days.

Cheers Ian

[OneOff]

A cluttered workplace is reflective of a cluttered mind...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-thTJzrr/0/b4396724/L/WP_20180628_002-L.jpg



Missing o-ring? No problem, fix it with black goop...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-Q3ZLFVN/0/94516a7f/L/WP_20180628_004-L.jpg


I have two sets to choose from, are the little numbers significant? I think the one on the right is the original but the other one is in better nick. Says 1400 and 1500.


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-dgrdRGP/0/93b54777/L/WP_20180628_005-L.jpg


Also these, the 519827 is a part number from the catalogue, which identifies it as Series 2A, the other one has no part number and i think it’s the original Series 2 item.


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-sLqmHzG/0/5fb1d2b3/L/WP_20180628_006-L.jpg


Any any advice on how to clean and freshen these would be appreciated, everything appears to be working on all items. Odometer numerals are quite yellowed, can they be cleaned with something to bring them back to white?

Cheers,
Peter.

[1950landy]

If the numbers are different then the non origional should not be conpatable with the speedo drive in the gearbox & you will find the speedo will not read correct. The tumblers are hard to clean & you will find most solvents & cleaning products will desolve the white paint. I get my instruments referbished by lionel Otto lnstruments in Evens Rd Salisbury, 4107.
07 32773888. They are not cheap but your instruments will be like new when done . Give them a call they will be able to tell you what the numbers mean. The guy there is a LR owner & I think he belongs to the Gold Coast Land Rover Club.

[JDNSW]

The 1400 and 1500 are the revolutions per mile (of the speedo cable). The 1500 will be off a swb and the 1400 off a lwb, but they really refer to the tyre size - standard 6.00x16 on the swb and 7.50x16 on the lwb, or 28" and 31" overall wheel diameter respectively.

Which is the right one for you depends on what size tyres you plan to run.

I would be very cautious about using anything on the odometer except water with a little detergent added, and even then, be very gentle.

[OneOff]

Perfect! Thanks gents.

I'll check rolling diameter of my tyres and then I'll know which to use.

I had a look at the Otto website, they do beautiful work, but the over the phone estimate was $400-$500 for both dials, too rich for me, especially considering everything is working already, I think I'll just tidy them up to the best I can.


Can the odo be wound back to zero?

[JDNSW]

Can the odo be wound back to zero?

Yes. I can't remember how to do it (it was about fifteen years ago!), but when I fitted a metric speedo to my 2a I wound it to match the actual mileage it had done on the original speedo. You may have to wind it forward, or you may have to disassemble it, but a close look at how the mechanism works should make it clear.

[1950landy]

Yes you can by moving the tumblers side ways so they disengage the gears in side them . You need to have extremely clean fingers other wise you will leave finger prints & the numbers will look worse. I had some new old stock speedo's & gauges a few years ago but have given them away now to friends who needed them .

[Chops]

The 1400 and 1500 are the revolutions per mile (of the speedo cable). The 1500 will be off a swb and the 1400 off a lwb, but they really refer to the tyre size - standard 6.00x16 on the swb and 7.50x16 on the lwb, or 28" and 31" overall wheel diameter respectively.

Which is the right one for you depends on what size tyres you plan to run.

I would be very cautious about using anything on the odometer except water with a little detergent added, and even then, be very gentle.


Excellent info thanks John.
Must check what mine is when I go up a wheel size. Not sure if I’ll do this yet, but long trips really need the bigger tyre I think. I’m planning on driving her over to WA in a couple of years, so it’ll be handier if they are the larger size.

[OneOff]

The 1400 and 1500 are the revolutions per mile (of the speedo cable). The 1500 will be off a swb and the 1400 off a lwb, but they really refer to the tyre size - standard 6.00x16 on the swb and 7.50x16 on the lwb, or 28" and 31" overall wheel diameter respectively.

Which is the right one for you depends on what size tyres you plan to run.

I would be very cautious about using anything on the odometer except water with a little detergent added, and even then, be very gentle.



You must get fed up with repeating yourself John. [bighmmm]
I just came across you giving the same advice to pfillery back in 2011!!.. I must learn to search before asking...



Thanks again,
Peter.

[OneOff]

Hi ho,:spudnikwaving:

Quite happy with my efforts at restoring my steering wheel and thought I’d share a few pics.

I’d had a quote from a professional restorer, but too rich for me, so I thought “what the hell, it’s a Land Rover, I’ll have a go myself!”, what’s the worst that could happen? (At this point I’m always pleased I’m not trying to restore an Aston Martin or the like...)

This was what I’d started with, reasonably sound, but pretty tired with the usual cracking around the rim and chipped paint on the boss.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-PFPDPBT/0/65d52fac/L/unnamed1-L.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-Rk6H2Z5/0/6a0ed42c/L/unnamed5-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-Xm2P7Mb/0/804ea218/L/unnamed6-L.jpg



So I went to see my mate down at the paint shop and he mixed me up some 2-pack in a spray can, really cool stuff, I’d never seen this before. Both paint and hardener are in the same can, in different compartments. When you’re ready to mix it together there’s a special button you attach on the bottom of the can, pushing it in releases the hardener into the paint, shake it up and away you go. You’ve all probably seen it before but it’s new to me...


I got rid of the chipped paint with a light sandblast, then some flexible body filler around the rim


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-8qTkJZp/0/30c262c5/L/526C294E-99DD-4653-ACFA-7DE35B70462B-L.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-xq9jHkM/0/a9d22837/L/8F7D6670-9ED5-4229-8F53-85158179D1F5-L.jpg

sand, sand, sand...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-W5h4c4C/0/e7e18dc4/L/WP_20180829_001-L.jpg


More filler, more sanding, getting close, spray putty, more sanding, more spray putty, more sanding, etc, etc...


Finally, some colour...
Note also threaded rod solution for painting all sides without hanging it from a wire. Just turn in over and reinsert it back in the hole.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-JsFW5tj/0/6e8d3aa1/L/WP_20180909_001-L.jpg



Four coats later. In an extreme and impressive (for me) show of patience I even managed to keep my fingerprints off it for a full 24 hours!


Shiny!!

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-8kDGGzW/0/69b311db/L/WP_20180909_004-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-99VTFVc/0/ba550535/L/4F8EEDA3-7041-4EC5-A8EF-599FBF0AD059-L.jpg



The chrome on the centre was beyond redemption so I have opted for colour-coded to match the body.
Looks alright I reckon...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-XHsR28K/0/b3a8506c/L/E01DE94B-BEA1-485B-84D7-74201C30815A-L.jpg


So there here you go. Sometimes I even impress myself...


cheers,
Peter.

[OneOff]

In other news the steering box has had to come back out. I filled it with oil and it embarrassed itself all over the shed floor...

I had replaced the seals( blue box)... maybe some gasket goo instead?

[1950landy]

That is nice , real nice . :BigThumb: I just bought a leather steering wheel cover to try to size up the rim on my 80" . May end up being a wast of $70 if I get it on & it is loose or doesn't look rite. [bigsad]

[Ricrose]

Looks superb [emoji106]

[OneOff]

A couple of small jobs yesterday.
I took the steering box apart again and re-sealed it with Form-a-Gasket, no leaks now.
Also filled the radiator with water which immediately dribbled out around the water pump, glad I didn't use coolant. Dumped that out and fixed the leak, refilled - all good.

Working conditions in the shed, while adequate, are a bit cramped, and I get a bit fed up with looking at everything in close up.
So I pushed it out of the shed once more so I could see it all at once.

Here's some happy snaps for you...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-gn8JZLT/0/cb42d622/X2/EFC4B9E1-022C-4897-A9B6-804BE34F2D5B-X2.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-FSRPZfW/0/ac0f7518/X2/31C69118-4184-4899-AC0A-01179E1A7FE8-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-sbGRqc7/0/aee2110e/X2/C9D52709-1D38-4652-867F-1554D903D623-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-SLRL6t5/0/ed49a016/X2/C7C57F6E-3F00-4328-B5A9-459129A71F60-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-ncXFN9w/0/c38d1f67/X2/069C563D-4EF8-4256-8851-4CC4F3E773BD-X2.jpg





https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-B6KRCPN/0/f973bc61/X2/C016977C-1E32-45AD-99D8-C5160F504741-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-ftDT39F/0/14ad7aed/X2/6124524E-E815-4F99-A9FD-2CA0D9D1932D-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-X5FxddN/0/148bc2b4/X2/383D7604-1703-4A17-9D5B-73844280CA76-X2.jpg

[OneOff]

Some more...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-p55djRt/0/ce8de506/X2/9E74CA32-703D-4E96-A0DD-2A826DC32362-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-4fWCwpT/0/b5cf409e/X2/2C1FCFAA-4DC3-4E7C-AB63-00DD71B72E4E-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-TX33Bd4/0/ca5d4821/X2/D351AED4-9B67-422D-89FF-399D8F66D53F-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-Kxzkxn2/0/393c833a/X2/295487D2-97BD-46AF-89AE-D75B99622D93-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-NSLK2W8/0/71cd0302/X2/D4F4DA05-1189-4447-88E6-C8341A076793-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-7LzTFwc/0/1be25816/X2/3B78E452-00D0-45B0-A8B7-303D00F061A8-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-FBbvnVp/0/444fa6d3/X2/D894B5A1-053A-49E2-ACAB-4E8CE8A0C0EC-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-nXMRSBF/0/4c9b9061/X2/F7536B62-10D1-4408-94B9-DBA0CB2BBFCC-X2.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-tBXHj93/0/4a3e5dd7/X2/17407DA4-8CB1-43C4-AD0D-9CF792F1D4B8-X2.jpg


That's probably it for a while, other work on the property is falling behind, almost lawn mowing season as well...

Cheers,
Peter.

[travelrover]

Looking fantastic!

[Ricrose]

Looking fantastic, you should be justifiably proud.

[grey_ghost]

Wow - looks absolutely brilliant.. Well done.

[Chops]

Just Beautiful.

A gorgeous finnish that a few could follow using your workmanship as an example, preparation is the key.
I can only hope that when I get to mine it ends up looking like this. As Ricrose says,, you should be proud.

[OneOff]

Thanks chaps,

I'll admit to being pretty happy with the outcome so far [biggrin]

[Chops]

Thanks chaps,

I'll admit to being pretty happy with the outcome so far [biggrin]

Wishing I'd been on the ball a couple of weeks ago when we were up in your area,, I may have asked for a quick squizz at the beast.

[OneOff]

You would have been most welcome.

[thumbsupbig]

[bemm52]

Front skirt looks the goods[thumbsupbig]
been away Land Rovering so just catching up on things, elephant hide seats are outstanding as is the whole build......I made a few errors with mine and will probably discombobulate it in the future[bigwhistle]

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Front skirt looks the goods[thumbsupbig]


Cheers Paul

Yes... thanks for sending that. [smilebigeye] I think you're right, it's not the right one but I'm going to use it, they are a bit hard to find.

I still have a box of deconstructed dash gauges to send to you...

[davermoore]

Just been through your whole build thread and got to say, very impressed with your work. Hope to own a series 2 myself one day but not sure I will end up with one as nice as yours unless someone invenst time travel and I can go back to 1958 and buy a new one! LOL.

Cheers, Dave.

[OneOff]

Thanks for your comments Dave, and for the bump-up. [thumbsupbig]

[Sando]

Hey Pete

Not sure if you are still looking to refurb your speedo, but I have just done mine in a S3, including reset of the odometer to 00000. This document was a great help, http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf

Cheers Chris (You know, Sandman61, I still got your Akrapovic on my 'Strom :) )

145460 145461 145462

[Johnno1969]

Looks absolutely brilliant!

[OneOff]

Hey Pete Not sure if you are still looking to refurb your speedo, but I have just done mine in a S3, including reset of the odometer to 00000. This document was a great help, http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf Cheers Chris (You know, Sandman61, I still got your Akrapovic on my 'Strom :) ) Oh, you’re THAT Sando...[thumbsupbig] I think Trevor may have mentioned you had bought an old Land Rover. Now be prepared for the inevitable questions concerning your intelligence and sanity... mostly from your immediate family.[bigsmile1] I finished the speedo, but it’s not yet been tested. There's lots of good info in that document, I’ll definitely file it away for future reference. I do miss that Strom, and it’s beautiful Akrapovic... Peter.

[OneOff]

Okay, is there anyone out there in my local area (Gold Coast hinterland) that could come and help me bleed my brakes next Sunday??? I’m finding it very difficult on my own.

There will of course beers and a steak on the bbq in it for you... [biggrin]

[67hardtop]

Okay, is there anyone out there in my local area (Gold Coast hinterland) that could come and help me bleed my brakes next Sunday??? I’m finding it very difficult on my own.

There will of course beers and a steak on the bbq in it for you... [biggrin]I could but its a long drive from Adelaide [emoji12] [emoji12] [emoji12]

Maybe if i left right now

[OneOff]

I could but its a long drive from Adelaide [emoji12] [emoji12] [emoji12]

Maybe if i left right now


I'll put the billy on... [thumbsupbig]

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi Peter, I PMed you re the brake bleeding.

Cheers,
John

[OneOff]

It appears there is no way of monitoring water temperature on Barney. Unless I'm being (more than usually) dense.

There is the "thermostat switch for choke warning light (213574)", is this what we use to measure water temp?
It was suggested that I drill and tap a sensor into the thermostat housing, or fit one into the return hose, is this a good idea?

And on that subject, is a Choke Warning Light something I need?

Peter.

Also, what is the correct thermostat for this engine (2ltr spread-bore)?146165It's got a big spring under it, I don't think Tridon would sell it...

[4bee]

I bet it won't be long & you'll get fed up with the hand brake lever up your trouser leg but that can be replaced by the later bent one & it is easier to get to, especially if you install seat belts.

Best wishes for a great resto.

[Ricrose]

Hi Peter
There is a blanked 3/8” thread in the head just below the thermostat on the drivers side. I am in the process of fitting an electric temp sensor into it (with adaptor). You could just as easily put in a mechanical one.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181119/045bf1455d21264c871bb4464dd25c14.jpg

[Ricrose]

Sorry Peter
Should be 3/8” BSP thread.
Richard

[OneOff]

Oh that’s excellent, I’ll check it out.
thanks Richard.

[OneOff]

Richard,

Unfortunately that plug doesn't exist on my engine, the picture you posted must be the 2.25 ltr.

There is a garage near here, "British Auto Restorers", They have located for me the correct NOS bellows type thermostat and it's on the way, and they have suggested I could put a temp sender into the top radiator tank rather than drilling and tapping holes in the thermostat housing. I've not seen it done that way before but I can't see why it wouldn't work. They assure me they have done it to many an old MG and Austin that have no provision for a sender on the head.

Opinions on this please?

To that end I have ordered a dual Temp and Oil Pressure gauge so I can keep a close eye on what the engine is doing.


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-ZfQZzTp/0/1802f463/O/2018-11-28%2010_00_56-233480%20-%20Combined%20Oil%20and%20Water%20Temp%20Guage%20L and%20Rover.%20Gauge%20and%20Capillary%20Tempe.png

4bee
I bet it won't be long & you'll get fed up with the hand brake lever up your trouser leg but that can be replaced by the later bent one & it is easier to get to, especially if you install seat belts.

Best wishes for a great resto.
Thanks 4bee for your well wishes; and I have a bent one tucked away for just that occasion... [bigsmile1]




I would still like to know if the "213574 - Thermostat Switch for Choke Warning Light" at the rear of the head would serve as a temperature light switch??? Of course I've no idea what temperature the switch is rated to so it may be useless for that purpose...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-v4M2HjH/0/9e89afd9/O/2018-11-28%2010_10_27-213574%20Choke%20Warning%20Light%20Switch%20in%20R ear%20Of%20Head%201948%20-%2059.png
Available from Craddocks at $100.00 + freight (OUCH!!!)


Cheers,
Peter

[Ricrose]

That makes sense - I went back and read the whole thread and see what you mean. I do have a 2.25 and not the 2. Sorry Peter.

[Tote]

The choke warning switch wouldn't be any good as it goes closed when the engine reaches a temperature when the choke is no longer required i.e. normal running temperature. The light is intended to remind the driver to push the choke button in when the engine is warm. the choke knob has a switch the opens the circuit when the knob is in making the warning light go out.
Regards,
Tote

[OneOff]

Thanks Tote,

Seems an odd sort of system. I'm scratching my head wondering why they'd bother...
When you think of the work needed at the design, pattern making, etc stage - to include a gizmo just to remind you to push the choke in!!
I don't have a switch to go in there, and considering the cost of one I think I'll just ignore the whole thing.
I'm sure I'll remember to push the choke in without a light to remind me...[biggrin]

Peter.

[4bee]

Not inexpensive any more are they?[bighmmm]

You have to take yourself back in time to a different age when these were produced.
In latter times we have all got used to Auto chokes that shut themselves down at the correct engine temp.

Mine still works ok, & it is surprising how often the Amber lamp reminds me to push the choke in, especially if there other activities going on that only a Land Rover Series can be used for.


I guess it is a "Pays yer money & makes yer choice" situation.

[JDNSW]

I remember from my youth that aftermarket temperature gauges often came with a kit of special washers etc to put the sender in the top radiator hose. This has two advantages over the top tank - you don't have to make a hole in the (expensive) radiator tank, and the temperature will still register when the coolant level is below the tank! It would not be hard to make the washers to match the curvature of the hose.

[1950landy]

You coud dril & tap the thermostat housing , I was lucky with my 80" S1 it had the alloy housing that have plugs in them for the heater & sender unit. 146422146423

[OneOff]

Yes, that was my original idea, and it appears that my thermo bottom housing similar to yours, although I think mine is cast iron, not alloy. It has a flat area where your heater outlet is, but it isn't drilled.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-nSTmwNw/0/0cd8aa13/O/thermo%20housing.png


When the new thermo arrives I'll see if there is room to install it there, otherwise I'll make an adaptor in the top hose as JD suggests.

[1950landy]

Yes, that was my original idea, and it appears that my thermo bottom housing similar to yours, although I think mine is cast iron, not alloy. It has a flat area where your heater outlet is, but it isn't drilled.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-nSTmwNw/0/0cd8aa13/O/thermo%20housing.png


When the new thermo arrives I'll see if there is room to install it there, otherwise I'll make an adaptor in the top hose as JD suggests.
The alloy ones have two threaded poles booth the same size with plugs in them. I have fitted the capillary tube into an adaptor in the front hole . The alloy ones usually corrode out at the back but can be welded up . I found with mine the thread had corroded so I used a tapered thread adaptor that would take the capillary tube into the housing which because it was tapered could be tightened in the hole & sealed really well, so no leaks. I mounted the gauge in the steering column hole for LHD as I didn't want to drill any holes on the drivers side & on a 80" there isn't many places you can mount it . Good luck with it.
Wayne

[1950landy]

A side view of the thermostat housing 146444 This photo shows it with an electric sender unit which I replaced with a capillary tube with the duel gauge.

[OneOff]

74 degree Waxstat thermostat installed, along with a capillary tube sender to the gauge.

Ran it for a while (yes, it runs, if I could work out how to upload video I could share that with you...), it sat at about 65’, a little low I think, I can get a hotter thermo, but what’s a good temp to aim for?

i also installed a thermo fan with a variable switch, however it seems to sit at temperature without it so I may remove it at a later date.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-q9NqLKP/0/8c2923d2/L/20181222_130157-L.jpg


Being a dual gauge I also installed an oil pressure sender which showed around 45 psi. Healthy. And lots of lovely oil flowing around under the tappet cover.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-PCTFHDK/0/c73a2476/L/20181222_130216-L.jpg


Not the prettiest bracket but it’ll do for now.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-nGCBNvp/0/344602cd/L/20181222_130247-L.jpg

So close to driving this thing!

[4bee]

Not the prettiest bracket but it’ll do for now.

Looks fine to me & is what I did using a Banjo Fitting. How else could it be done pray tell?[smilebigeye]

[Dgd69]

I got same as this for mine for aux gauge got picture from internet https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/1a8d65c9220ca1088d0fa0c1074a1d44.jpg

[OneOff]

I got same as this for mine for aux gauge got picture from internet https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/1a8d65c9220ca1088d0fa0c1074a1d44.jpg

Yes, something like this looks far more fitting to the Land Rover style, but I was being slack , and didn’t t want to get the spray gun out and mix up a drop of paint for such a bitty thing...
At this point my focus is to get things running, I can finesse it all later... [smilebigeye]

[Dgd69]

Yes, something like this looks far more fitting to the Land Rover style, but I was being slack , and didn’t t want to get the spray gun out and mix up a drop of paint for such a bitty thing...
At this point my focus is to get things running, I can finesse it all later... [smilebigeye]

Mine was fitted long before I got it looked genuine fits to vent screw and bottom dash to lh side have a look on the net the fit well

[OneOff]

https://youtu.be/qwLmBjhqQSk

worked out how to post a video. [biggrin]

[Chops]

Pretty impressive indeed. [thumbsupbig][biggrin] Well done.

[OneOff]

I got same as this for mine for aux gauge got picture from internet


I don’t suppose you’d have a link?

Edit:
Never mind I found it, charlieccu has them. A bit exxy at £30+ postage though. Looks simple enough to make one...

[OneOff]

I took Barney for a spin around the paddock on Sunday [biggrin], all the family and dog on board. Finally mobile.!!

A terrible howl from the transmission brake, I've assembled it incorrectly, springs on the wrong side, so a step backwards to fix that. I doubt it will be the only one...

After sitting in the shed all this time and not soiling the floor, now with just 1/2 kilometre on the clock, I have small oil leaks everywhere possible, even the fuel tank bung has relaxed it's vigilance! The drivers side swivel has also dropped it's entire load.[bighmmm] That'll have to be re-done.


Ah well, onward and upward they say. I'll post some video when I have some.

[bemm52]

Metric speedo........oh no
good to see it go though, Jade has sprouted a few oil leaks as well but nothing as major as what you seem to be experiencing, my 84 year old mechanical sage suggests that back in the day tolerances in machining were not what they are today
on the strength of the above when I get there with my next build I think I will run motor and gearbox with wheels of the ground till warm and check for leaks before fitting body panels
Good Luck with it all

Cheers Paul

[singlecell]

I took Barney for a spin around the paddock on Sunday [biggrin], all the family and dog on board. Finally mobile.!!

A terrible howl from the transmission brake, I've assembled it incorrectly, springs on the wrong side, so a step backwards to fix that. I doubt it will be the only one...

After sitting in the shed all this time and not soiling the floor, now with just 1/2 kilometre on the clock, I have small oil leaks everywhere possible, even the fuel tank bung has relaxed it's vigilance! The drivers side swivel has also dropped it's entire load.[bighmmm] That'll have to be re-done.


Ah well, onward and upward they say. I'll post some video when I have some.

I also thought had a leak free vehicle until I started driving it more than just up and down the driveway. I suspect my leaks are all coming from where the levers/shafts move in and out of the gearbox/tc

[4bee]

I also thought had a leak free vehicle until I started driving it more than just up and down the driveway.


That is wishful thinking in the extreme.[smilebigeye]

[67hardtop]

My Betsy hasnt got any leaks. Prob coz ive not put oil in yet🤣🤣🤣

[4bee]

Eeerrrrr, but you will remember to, right?[smilebigeye]

[67hardtop]

Eeerrrrr, but you will remember to, right?[smilebigeye]Hope so. Im hoping the seals will still be good after sitting about 4yrs now I think[emoji15]

[OneOff]

I had a mate come around the other day who knows a bit more than I do about auto-electrics (a bit).

We did this!

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-78KRSBF/0/c760bddf/L/20190110_065846-L.jpg


Now while I'm in favour of using relays for the heavy wires and fuses on every circuit, it's not exactly "Land Roverish", in fact it looks like a dogs breakfast... no amount of cable ties and cover plates is going to fix that particular rat's nest.

Don't get me wrong, I do appreciate his help and it's driveable now through his efforts... but it's all going to come out.

I have ordered the tool tray that goes under the middle seat and the relays and fuses will be relocated there. Out of sight but still with easy access.
I already have the firewall loom from Autosparks and I'll put that in, so hopefully it will look mostly period correct from the outside, but with the bonus of having everything fused correctly.

Any advice you have on this plan I'd greatly appreciate. One thing I've thought of is that when the electrics are installed in this tray, it's no longer removable. This would be an issue with transfer case and handbrake access.

I'm finding doing the electrics by far the biggest challenge on the whole project.
Skinned knuckles and grease up to my elbows - a doddle.
(Bad) spray painting - actually fun.

Relays - fuses - wiring - anything remotely electrical, all kryptonite to me, my brain just walks out and slams the door behind it...

Cheers,
Peter.

P.S. That air cleaner hose is also a temporary arrangement until I find the right one.

[4bee]

Kryptonite?? Be careful of that stuff.

Well, hellooooo Superman.

When locating the gear in the centre box, can you not make provision to bring [B]all cables through just the one Grommeted entry point, making sure you leave surplus cable either in the box or outside, so it could be pulled back to lift the whole tray away & hang it from the roof? I used to do this with inaccessible Air Cond Control panels & is good way to go, seeing as how hopefully, you won't need regular/routine access.

Whatever you do to retain the "Land Rover-ish" appearance I believe you will need to compromise along the way using today's technology for a 60's exercise..


but with the bonus of having everything fused correctly.


Now there is a novel idea for a Land Rover.[bighmmm]


Sgd
Superwoman.[biggrin]

[1950landy]

There is a company in Brendale who sell a wire covering that looks like cloth covering , when you push on it it expands in diameter so you can feed the wires through it then when you pull on it it shrinks down . It looks like the real deal. Also Auto Barn sell a woven mesh covering that is split down the length . It doesn't look as good as the one from Brendale but does the job. I will get a couple of photo's later today & find the company's name & contact details . They also sell lots of different colour wires , mate of mine made up his harness using all the correct colours & used the covering & it looks like a bought one.
I mounted all mu extra relays on the back corner of the R/H inner guard just forward of the bulk head , they are not so various there. I will post up some photo's later to day.

[1950landy]

147356 Relay for lights , there is also a horn relay mounted in front radiator panel were it can not be seen.
147357 This is the covering I bought from the company at Brendale. 147358 And the covering I bought from Autobarn zip tied to the new harness I bought from Vintage Wiring Harness.
The one from Autobarn is a lot stiffer than the other & is harder to make look as neat . The one from Brendale you need to singe the ends with a lighter to stop it fraying when it has been cut but is soft & very easy to use. I have sent a text to my mate to find out there name & contact details.
I think if you just cover the wires & tidy them up so they all run through the same covering it should look a lot better.

[OneOff]

When locating the gear in the centre box, can you not make provision to bring all cables through just the one Grommeted entry point, making sure you leave surplus cable either in the box or outside, so it could be pulled back to lift the whole tray away & hang it from the roof? I used to do this with inaccessible Air Cond Control panels & is good way to go, seeing as how hopefully, you won't need regular/routine access.

Excellent advice, I will do that.

I've just been down to Jaycar, they have shrink mesh which looks exactly like the stuff on the Autosparks loom. First step is to route the positive lead to the seat box area for the battery cutout switch, and from there to the starter relay.

thanks for your help.

[4bee]

Excellent advice, I will do that.


:redface:

You're most welcome. I keep telling lots of folk that I am not just a pretty face, so
why does 'er indoors tell me I am a useless bugger?

[smilebigeye]

[OneOff]

Maybe it's because you call yourself Superwoman???

[thumbsupbig]

[4bee]

But she was a real looker. OMG! Maybe I'll change my name to Super-Gramps?[smilebigeye]

[singlecell]

I ended up cramming all my fuses and terminals in behind the gauges. Its a tight fit and a rats nest back there for sure but at least it's out of the way.
The relays for the lights are right up the front next to the headlights themselves though.

[OneOff]

Autosparks on the left, Jaycar on the right. Not too different, and gives an “old school” look that I’m happy with. Certainly it’s better than a bright red plastic one...



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-FnRjsx8/0/6d5aa02f/L/20190110_184326-L.jpg

[1950landy]

Autosparks on the left, Jaycar on the right. Not too different, and gives an “old school” look that I’m happy with. Certainly it’s better than a bright red plastic one...



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-FnRjsx8/0/6d5aa02f/L/20190110_184326-L.jpg

That covering looks good . I know you don't need the name of the company were I bought mine but some one else may so here it is. There name is Rapidecables & they are at Brendale Qld.

[OneOff]

Good website, looks like the pricing is reasonable as well. Wiring Solutions Australia | Automotive Cable Harness & Wiring Looms (http://www.rapidcables.com.au)

thanks.

[AJF]

Hi Peter

On your wiring approach - I am also struggling with getting the wiring on my series 2 finished. I went with a new loom from vintage wiring, moving over to a negative earth / alternator arrangement.

For the relays and junction boxes, a friend suggested taking the old voltage regulator (which sits on the fire wall) and in effect taking out the insides and hiding the relays in there.

Do you / anyone else think thins will work / look good?

Cheers
Angus

[4bee]

Have only heard of this being done but can't see why it wouldn't work ok.

You would not only hide the relays which would still be accessible, but would still have that touch of authenticity.

[OneOff]

Hey Angus,

That was the first thing I looked at.

I needed three relays and they just wouldn't quite fit in the box along with the necessary wires.
And you still need somewhere for the fuse block anyway, that's why I decided to put it all under the seat. For a while I also considered putting it all on the "wall" under the seat-box between seats two and three, but it would be exposed to too much water and dirt there, so I went back to the under-seat tray idea, with enough cabling to take the tray out and put it on the passenger seat on the rare occasions I need access in there.

It's coming along... I have ignition, it starts and runs, and the horn works. I just can't resist hitting that starter, it brings a smile every time...
Still to do are park lights, headlights, blinkers, dash gauges and lights. And then to tidy it up with flexi conduit.

a couple more weekends yet.

Because I didn't really know what I needed I didn't go online for stuff, instead I've been making multiple trips to Repco/SCA. A very expensive way to do things...

Cheers,
Peter.

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi Peter,

As I'm doing my wiring now as well, and I am curious about why you think you need three relays ?? I can understand a relay for headlights if you have upgraded to Halogen, which typically uses a high beam of 60W, so that's a 5 AMP current draw, but really a Landy should not need any other relays, apart from the starter relay, which is a special device anyway.

Also, in the picture you showed, I was wondering why there are two fuse boxes ? as standard Land Rover up to S3 has a 2 fuse fusebox, and one of those fuses is not really used. In S3 there's a 4 fuse fusebox.

IMHO as an electrical engineer, you don't need excess relays. I think there's a lot of misinformation about Land Rover electricals, when really it's pretty straight forward.

Let me know if I can help in anyway.

Cheers,
John

[OneOff]

Hello John,

As I've said many times, I'm a complete numpty at anything electrical, that's why when my friend, who has some experience with this sort of thing offered to help I grabbed it.
It was his thoughts to do all the fusing and relays, I was just going along for the ride, his number one spanner holder.

The two fuse boxes are switched and non-switched.
The first relay opens the circuit to the switched fuses - fuel pump, fuel gauge, coil, brake lights, etc.
The non switched fuses are for horn, parks, blinkers and lights. and other stuff I haven't thought of yet.
He's put relays on the park circuit and the headlight circuit.

From your post it looks like he was a bit biased towards overkill.
I should have taken you up on your offer, it looks like you know what you're talking about. I'm not really comfortable diverging so far from original. So many wires...

I'd love to come over after work one day and have a look at what you've done if you could manage the time. Send me a PM?

[JohnboyLandy]

PM sent.

Cheers,
John

[OneOff]

I just bought one of these for a blinker switch. I know that technically it's a trafficator switch but it's a period correct accessory and should run blinkers.

If any one has one of these fitted, would you mind sharing some photos of where/how you mounted it?

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-QhJpXJH/0/8c289cbd/O/2019-01-24%2011_13_26-Land%20Rover%20Classic%20Car%20Repro%20SPB120%20Bl ack%20Indicator%20Trafficator%20Switch%201948-65%20_.gif

[67hardtop]

Im pretty sure a trafficator and a blinker are the same thing....just saying.

Cheers Rod

[4bee]

I can't help with that, Sorry, but when I did mine I also wired them to be HAZARD lights ie. All 4 can flash together, on another backlit switch obviously. I know it's not authentic but to me safety is much more important than authenticity when if one is stuck on the dark roadside in deepest darkest Queensland/South Australia .
I also found a small red triangular sticker to place next to it but don't ask me where from!!!!!


Funny story, I spent ages trying to get the circuits just right & was just ready to jump into our dam & do the honorable thing when all of a sudden I accidentally fluked it. Et voila!

If I did it today I would more than likely break a leg or an arm or fracture my head..

Later on, I managed to find a diagram from somewhere.[bighmmm]

[gromit]

Im pretty sure a trafficator and a blinker are the same thing....just saying.

Cheers Rod


Trafficators are the arm that raised to indicate the vehicle was turning, they didn't 'blink'.

https://www.google.com/url'sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trafficators&ved=2ahUKEwjHjsXQnYXgAhUUfSsKHdRaBD4QFjAXegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw14Mv71WSoVLIPvg3O65hcc

There was a bracket that mounted on the steering column for late Series I and early Series II that positioned this type of switch just under your hand when it's on the steering wheel.

Colin

[OneOff]

Trafficators are the arm that raised to indicate the vehicle was turning, they didn't 'blink'.

https://www.google.com/url'sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trafficators&ved=2ahUKEwjHjsXQnYXgAhUUfSsKHdRaBD4QFjAXegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw14Mv71WSoVLIPvg3O65hcc

There was a bracket that mounted on the steering column for late Series I and early Series II that positioned this type of switch just under your hand when it's on the steering wheel.

Colin

Aha!!

Must be this one. Now, where would I find one of those..?

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-MfFKg3d/0/0c3b81ee/O/2019-01-24%2012_30_33-4107%20-%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20I%201954-1958%20Parts%20Catalogue%20COMPLETE.pdf%20-%20Adobe%20Acroba.jpg

Edit: no, that's the horn bracket.

[67hardtop]

Under a pile of rocking horse poo???

Cheers Rod

[gromit]

Aha!!

Must be this one. Now, where would I find one of those..?

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-MfFKg3d/0/0c3b81ee/O/2019-01-24%2012_30_33-4107%20-%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20I%201954-1958%20Parts%20Catalogue%20COMPLETE.pdf%20-%20Adobe%20Acroba.jpg

Edit: no, that's the horn bracket.

From someone with a Series II that's beyond saving.
It may have been the horn bracket where someone had fitted an indicator switch on one I used to own. I'll see if I have any pictures.

Colin

[gromit]

Found a photo, the switch had been added to the bracket for the horn button.


Colin

[Dgd69]

Hey here’s a picture of mine before disassembly mine was ex Nsw forestry it had indicators added https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190124/e8aa7146714a9f5528dd469245bd4631.jpgold Lucas switch

[OneOff]

Thanks gents.

I will have a look around for one of those brackets, but they look to be within my fabrication skill set. I’ll probably just make one if I go that way.

I seen a late Series 1 today that had the switch mounted on the windscreen frame, directly below the divider. That looked quite neat and in a spot that’s easy to reach.

Dgd69, that’s the very switch I bought.

[Dgd69]

Thanks gents.

I will have a look around for one of those brackets, but they look to be within my fabrication skill set. I’ll probably just make one if I go that way.

I seen a late Series 1 today that had the switch mounted on the windscreen frame, directly below the divider. That looked quite neat and in a spot that’s easy to reach.

Dgd69, that’s the very switch I bought.

Just out interest we’re did you buy it from thanks

[OneOff]

Just out interest we’re did you buy it from thanks

Bought it from Ebay Store charlieccu.

[OneOff]

The throttle arm on my copy Solex does not return to rest when you take your foot off, it's like it needs a light spring to pull it back down.

There is a throttle return spring listed in the parts catalogue, #272729 but when I look it up from the usual suppliers they list it as the same part as the clutch and brake return spring. That would be far to heavy to use on the throttle lever.
Sourcing a lighter spring isn't the problem, but there doesn't appear to be anywhere to connect it to if I had one.

The way it's set up all the linkages return to rest but they allow the throttle lever to remain open. What is the purpose of this?

Should I be putting a spring there at all? Possibly the fittings in the carby itself might be tight and need loosening back a little. I will look at that.

Having a throttle that stays open is probably not the best idea!

Advice/photos here would be appreciated. I will take some pics tonight when I get home to try to explain what I am talking about.






https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-LV2gTBW/0/82719457/O/2019-01-25%2013_25_45-34174887-Land-Rover-Series-II-IIA-2-2A-Parts-Cat%20%281%29.pdf%20-%20Adobe%20Acrobat%20Reader%20.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-twQhz2h/0/ee135c9c/M/2019-01-25%2013_26_34-34174887-Land-Rover-Series-II-IIA-2-2A-Parts-Cat%20%281%29.pdf%20-%20Adobe%20Acrobat%20Reader%20-M.jpg

[JDNSW]

There needs to be a return spring somewhere in the linkage, but I can't remember where it is on that setup. And remember all the arms on the throttle linkage shafts are clamped on, and can be moved a little - plus some of the rods are adjustable for length.

[1950landy]

Just out interest we’re did you buy it from thanks

There is a guy in WA who sells the indicator switches under vintage LR parts , he goes under the name JIMMY THE PARROT , he also sells vintage Mini parts & has trafficators to suit LR's

[Dgd69]

There is a guy in WA who sells the indicator switches under vintage LR parts , he goes under the name JIMMY THE PARROT , he also sells vintage Mini parts & has trafficators to suit LR's

Thanks I ask around to find out where he is

[4bee]

Jimmy The Parrot sounds like he should be called Jimmy the Bowerbird & sounds like a Damon Runyon character.[bigsmile1]


Re Spring^^^^

The spring on my Zenith (P/n 35 on the dwng) goes back to a small anchor point on the bulkhead & it does seem to be a quite heavy spring, a bit like one from a side Spring Mattress. This was in situ when I got her. Right or wrong I don't know.

I have always thought it was a little too strong, but it suffices & does stop you "putting your foot flat to the floor" too easily/accidentally because of the tension. Maybe that is what it is meant to do, stop the foot bouncing on the pedal.

[1950landy]

Jimmy The Parrot sounds like he should be called Jimmy the Bowerbird & sounds like a Damon Runyon character.[bigsmile1]


Re Spring^^^^

The spring on my Zenith (P/n 35 on the dwng) goes back to a small anchor point on the bulkhead & it does seem to be a quite heavy spring, a bit like one from a side Spring Mattress. This was in situ when I got her. Right or wrong I don't know.

I have always thought it was a little too strong, but it suffices & does stop you "putting your foot flat to the floor" too easily/accidentally because of the tension. Maybe that is what it is meant to do, stop the foot bouncing on the pedal.

I had a look on Vintage Mini Parts Ebay looks like he only has white switches to suit Austin A30 at the moment. Jimmy is a bit of a parrot, I got a set of points off him once & the box turned up I a shoe box because that was the size box Aust Post were charging him to send it. Just his way of having a go at Aust Post. His has a lot of parts to fit British vehicles which also fit Land Rovers.

[AJF]

Peter

I am also trying to get a good look on the horn / indicator front. (I decided against upgrading to the horn in the centre of the steering wheel.)

An army series 2 I saw had a switch mounted on the dash. I will dig out a photo.

My proposed approach is to try and mount both on the steering column. Attached is a photo I saw on eBay I think of someone who was selling his series 2.

What do you think of this look?

148156Also - late series 1 had the horn button on the separate bracket (so Noddy probably has one).

Cheers
Angus

[4bee]

As you never know when you will need the horn in anger, but with respect, if it was mine I would get it back to the centre of the steering wheel
Times have moved on since the "S1 slow traffic old days" & if you do need it then you won't want to be faffing around trying to locate the button on the dash & probably behind the steering wheel at that moment.

IMHO.

[1950landy]

I may be wrong but I thought the S2 steering was not set up to have the horn button in the centre as the inner column is not hollow to run the wires through & had it on the bracket on the side of the column.

[4bee]

Depends how authentic you want it be, but I would run the wires down the outside of the steering tube & enclose them neatly which you would need to do anyway. It may need a hole drilled strategically.

Safety has to beat authenticity in my book.

[OneOff]

You are correct, the shaft is not hollow.
The supply wire runs up the outside of the steering column to a collar which the hub contact runs on. The button then earths it onto the steering shaft - at least that's how I've done mine.

Much easier to type that than it was to work out... [biggrin]

[russellrovers]

Peter

I am also trying to get a good look on the horn / indicator front. (I decided against upgrading to the horn in the centre of the steering wheel.)

An army series 2 I saw had a switch mounted on the dash. I will dig out a photo.

My proposed approach is to try and mount both on the steering column. Attached is a photo I saw on eBay I think of someone who was selling his series 2.

What do you think of this look?hi i had boxs of them at cooma most went to the uk have 3 left if this helpstex magna jim

148156Also - late series 1 had the horn button on the separate bracket (so Noddy probably has one).

Cheers
Angus landrover

[JDNSW]

You are correct, the shaft is not hollow.
The supply wire runs up the outside of the steering column to a collar which the hub contact runs on. The button then earths it onto the steering shaft - at least that's how I've done mine.

Much easier to type that than it was to work out... [biggrin]

Series 1 started with a centre horn button and wires down a hollow steering column. Later Series 1 had a solid column and the button on an arm clamped to the steering column. This continued on through Series 2 and 2a, but was scrapped later as you describe the button went back onto the steering column - the parts book does not give a changeover date or a chassis suffix, but lists them as alternatives. I suspect the side horn button may have continued longer on Australian built vehicles. As far as I know, all from suffix 'C' used the centre push with the new steering wheel, and this was kept unchanged for S3.

[1950landy]

You are correct, the shaft is not hollow.
The supply wire runs up the outside of the steering column to a collar which the hub contact runs on. The button then earths it onto the steering shaft - at least that's how I've done mine.

Much easier to type that than it was to work out... [biggrin]

148250I should have remembered these bits circled in blue for late S2a 's , I had six new ones at one stage , have given them all away now though

[LRJim]

I suspect the side horn button may have continued longer on Australian built vehicles. As far as I know, all from suffix 'C' used the centre push with the new steering wheel, and this was kept unchanged for S3.

So the s3 is ment to have a steering wheel horn or am i misreading what you are saying? Mines on my indicator stalk but im convinced its from a falcon or somthing similar.
Cheers Jim

[1950landy]

So the s3 is ment to have a steering wheel horn or am i misreading what you are saying? Mines on my indicator stalk but im convinced its from a falcon or somthing similar.
Cheers Jim
Correct me if I am wrong, the very early S3's had the horn button in the centre of the steering wheel , the later on the end of the indicator switch.

[LRJim]

Correct me if I am wrong, the very early S3's had the horn button in the centre of the steering wheel , the later on the end of the indicator switch.That makes sence, mines a 75 so fairly late it has an ugly wheel also. Thanks for that, I wonder why they would move it from the wheel.
Cheers Jim

[JDNSW]

Correct me if I am wrong, the very early S3's had the horn button in the centre of the steering wheel , the later on the end of the indicator switch.

No, I was incorrect above. All S3 used the indicator switch. The S3 steering wheel was unchanged from Suffix 'C' 2a wheel to the end of production, except the material was better on very late S3. I have a 1981 S3 wheel on my 1970 2a.

[OneOff]

So, having a centre push button on the early (Series 1 style) wire spoked wheel like I have is incorrect?

[JDNSW]

Probably! The two styles for Series 2a with that type of wheel (up to 1967) are listed as alternatives, rather than changing at a specific date or chassis suffix.

[OneOff]

Spent the day footling today, re-did some of the wiring I wasn’t happy with, and finally decided where to put the blinker switch.

So, a few photos. I know how you like photos...



Started on the panel for the switch. The oil/temp gauge will go below it.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-2hm58n5/0/349219f4/L/20190302_210741_resized-L.jpg



Recently we discussed throttle linkages and the rather disconcerting way in which my throttle would not return to idle. This was my take on it... it returns like a beauty now!

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-p3hXMv6/0/45b0f338/L/1691933128_20190302_062523_3908192_resized-L.jpg


Also mounted a junction box on the inside of the drivers footwell. It’s tidied things up nicely.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-nwkW7ZQ/0/6a6cf574/L/20190302_221716-L.jpg



And lastly, the under seat box with relays and fuses.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-Pbh6SVD/0/69c42f07/L/20190302_221904-L.jpg


Speaking of that box, what a nice bit of kit! I got it from SP Panels in the UK. It wasn’t the cheapest thing I’ve bought from over there, but I wasn’t expecting 2mm stainless steel, weighs a metric ton...

[OneOff]

Well I thought this would be straight forward but I'm getting nowhere.
You would think input from the flasher unit would one of the two at the top, and left and right output to blinkers would be the two sets at the top... not so.

Advice??

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-jWKs4qk/0/cac2063b/M/2019-03-06%20spb120-M.png

[JohnboyLandy]

Peter, if you want to bring it round to my place, we can figure it out using my multimeter.

Cheers,
John

[OneOff]

Ta mate.

Probably Friday arvo. I'll give you a call...

[OneOff]

Number plate holder.

My fabrication skills have improved a bit since I started watching “Project Binky” on YouTube.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-CCww5rZ/0/02b8d7bc/L/20190306_183757-L.jpg



Tailgate down position

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-fgQqDnM/0/d119e412/L/20190306_183931-L.jpg




A rare earth magnet will stop it from rattling

See? Here it is...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-h89P257/0/2d284176/L/20190306_184027-L.jpg



A neat solution for the lamp wire

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-NvxGbjP/0/8a600983/L/20190306_183850-L.jpg



You may have noticed a bit of an increase in production around here... yes, I’m batching again... 🤠

[JohnboyLandy]

Hi Peter, nice work !!

Is there no gal piece at the top edge of the tail gate ?

Cheers,
John

[4bee]

Re the Horn Button assy. FWIW


The original surround for the button was " Black Cracker Laquer" finish (My name for it). Available in P/Pack tins. Could also be called Hammer finish. ? ? ? Was a sort of a rough to touch finish paint..

Remember the old Ned Kelly toy cap Guns or have you grown up with Ray or Laser guns? [biggrin] [bighmmm] Same finish.

You have done a really nice job on that vehicle, really nice..:TakeABow::TakeABow:

Forgot to mention.[bighmmm] If you wish for the Tailgate chains to not rattle, either slide a length of bike inner tube over each one or have made up a couple of PVC stitched tubes same as the seat material. Job done.

[OneOff]

Is there no gal piece at the top edge of the tail gate ?

Cheers,
John

There is. It's in the next pile to be galvanized


Re the Horn Button assy. FWIW


The original surround for the button was " Black Cracker Laquer" finish (My name for it). Available in P/Pack tins. Could also be called Hammer finish. ? ? ? Was a sort of a rough to touch finish paint..

Remember the old Ned Kelly toy cap Guns or have you grown up with Ray or Laser guns? [biggrin] [bighmmm] Same finish.

You have done a really nice job on that vehicle, really nice..:TakeABow::TakeABow:

Forgot to mention.[bighmmm] If you wish for the Tailgate chains to not rattle, either slide a length of bike inner tube over each one or have made up a couple of PVC stitched tubes same as the seat material. Job done.

Thank you, I appreciate your comments.
I have the PVC chain sleeves, but first I have to get new chain, one is half a link longer than the other, which is annoying me. Means the tailgate only rests on one side until you push the other side down, and then it's crooked. [bigsad]

[JDNSW]

Check that the chains are actually different lengths and it is not that the position of the anchors are slightly different.

[Chops]

Check that the chains are actually different lengths and it is not that the position of the anchors are slightly different.


Check if the chains twisted too. That can make them shorter as well.

[gromit]

Re the Horn Button assy. FWIW


The original surround for the button was " Black Cracker Laquer" finish (My name for it). Available in P/Pack tins. Could also be called Hammer finish. ? ? ? Was a sort of a rough to touch finish paint..

.

I think it was called wrinkle finish (probably other terms for it).
Dupli-Color Wrinkle Aerosol Paint - Wrinkle Finish, Black, 312g | Supercheap Auto (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/duplicolor-dupli-color-wrinkle-aerosol-paint---wrinkle-finish-black-312g/537354.html)

http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/83/218383/001.jpg


Colin

[4bee]

That is it, Colin, Ned Kelly Black, but it was about 20 odd years ago when I bought my can, hence me renaming it..[smilebigeye]


Just had another look at mine before I just came in & I reckon I must have nicked your one.[biggrin]

Gave me an excuse to press/test the horn button & I must say, LR did select a great horn for these.

No, it didn't play Jingle Bell Rock or the French National Anthem either.

[OneOff]

The new indicator switch in all its resplendent old style glory. It’s not self-cancelling, but neither are the blinkers on any motorbike I’ve ever owned, never been a problem. It’s got a bright flashing light in the middle, I don’t think I’ll forget to turn it off.

Question is, do they need to be self-cancelling for QLD rwc?


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-PvPvvQg/0/722fc911/L/20190317_164207-L.jpg

[OneOff]

It really is the most ergonomically unfriendly vehicle I’ve ever sat in. My elbows actually hit the bottom of the steering wheel when I’m driving and I find myself looking for ways to get more space.

Is it legal to shorten a steering column? I know you are not allowed to weld them.

Also thinking I could take some foam out of the seat back and gain an inch or two there...

[4bee]

The new indicator switch in all its resplendent old style glory. It’s not self-cancelling, but neither are the blinkers on any motorbike I’ve ever owned, never been a problem. It’s got a bright flashing light in the middle, I don’t think I’ll forget to turn it off.

Question is, do they need to be self-cancelling for QLD rwc?


If it helps, I wired in a $5 piezo buzzer from Dick Smith back then, which worked in unison with the lamp.


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-PvPvvQg/0/722fc911/L/20190317_164207-L.jpg


If it helps, I wired in a $5 piezo 'buzzer' from Dick Smith (back then), which worked in unison with the lamp. I also replaced the genuine cushions & seat backs with a couple of thin bucket seats. Being 6' it helps, but still not ideal.

[OneOff]

Did a bit on the weekend, built a tow hitch.
Had a oh **** moment when I was told it wouldn't be legal due to not being ADR plated, but my AULRO friends put my mind to rest on that score. Barney is of course pre-ADR regulations.

I still have the front guards and apron panel to refurb and paint and then it will be close to getting roadworthy (apart from replacing the rear seal on the transfer case, the rear diff seal again and the right hand swivel seal...)
But I seem to be willing to do anything rather than panel work, hence the tow bar.

Here it is - I seem to specialize in blurry photos these days, I might take up a career as a UFO photographer...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-DpwKqG2/0/75fec9ad/L/20190527_065038-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-3HFCWrd/0/89dcaff1/L/20190527_065106-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-j5nKZMZ/0/459a9b66/L/20190527_065125-L.jpg



This tongue is borrowed off the Defender and will be too low for my trailer on the Series, so I will need to get another one.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-QCnSMWV/0/65eaee0e/L/20190527_065205-L.jpg

[Homestar]

That looks heaps stronger than the factory one. [emoji106]

[JDNSW]

Turn it over?

[goingbush]

Brilliant job on the Towbar. I'll give you the tip, that is stronger than a lot of 'plated' ones i've seen .


hmmm . might copy that idea !!

[OneOff]

Turn it over?

yes... I did that but it looked a bit high then. The thing to do will be to put the trailer on and see.

I built it strong, it's more likely to pull the rear cross-member off before it breaks.

[mick88]

It really is the most ergonomically unfriendly vehicle I’ve ever sat in. My elbows actually hit the bottom of the steering wheel when I’m driving and I find myself looking for ways to get more space.

Is it legal to shorten a steering column? I know you are not allowed to weld them.

Also thinking I could take some foam out of the seat back and gain an inch or two there...

I am not certain, but later series 2A's may have a shorter steering column.
Worth investigating if you are a bit cramped in the cockpit.
Someone on here will be able to confirm it.

Cheers, Mick.

[Homestar]

It really is the most ergonomically unfriendly vehicle I’ve ever sat in. My elbows actually hit the bottom of the steering wheel when I’m driving and I find myself looking for ways to get more space.

Is it legal to shorten a steering column? I know you are not allowed to weld them.

Also thinking I could take some foam out of the seat back and gain an inch or two there...

Depending on where you live, welding steering components is legal but there are hoops to jump through. If your state runs to the requirements of the VSB's then VSB 11 allows welding of the steering shaft but it needs to be done by a certified Engineer, non destructively tested, and the process written up including welding process, settings, etc, so not something you can do at home, but doable if you wanted to go to the effort.

Victoria never used to allow this but they adopted the VSB's so it's legal now if those conditions are met and it had an Engineers report signed off too.

I'm going through all of this at the moment.

[goingbush]

Lightweights have no seat back, per se, just a 50mm slab of foam covered in vinyl screwed to the bulkhead.
Mine seems roomy enough & surprisingly comfy: for comparison how far btwn centre of steering wheel (horn button) & top of cushion on your Series II (just for interest). This is a Series3 , I wasn't aware of different length columns.

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/lwtseat.jpg

[goingbush]

Depending on where you live, welding steering components is legal but there are hoops to jump through. If your state runs to the requirements of the VSB's then VSB 11 allows welding of the steering shaft but it needs to be done by a certified Engineer, non destructively tested, and the process written up including welding process, settings, etc, so not something you can do at home, but doable if you wanted to go to the effort.

Victoria never used to allow this but they adopted the VSB's so it's legal now if those conditions are met and it had an Engineers report signed off too.

I'm going through all of this at the moment.

would it not be easier to make a new steering shaft ?

[JDNSW]

Probably not - the worm on the business end is not a simple turning job, and the whole thing is heat treated.

I have an idea though that the late Series 1 steering assembly is somewhat shorter but otherwise identical, so that might be worth investigating.

The other thing that might be worth looking at is an aftermarket steering wheel.

[Homestar]

would it not be easier to make a new steering shaft ?

As John said, the worm would be very difficult to machine particularly to the tolerances required. The spline on the top wouldn’t be much fun to make either I wouldn’t think.

[OneOff]

It’s been many months since I seen the shaft but my thoughts at that time was to take an existing shaft with worm on the bottom end, shorten it and cut new splines at the top. I know there are places around that can cut splines.

More recently I’ve done the full swing and come to agree with an earlier poster, just learn to live with it and you will become accustomed to it...

[mick88]

Run the tape measure over my 1963 2A and the 1971 model.
The 63 has the shorter steering column by a significant amount.
Here are a couple of pics.


Cheers, Mick.

Added another pic that shows the dish in the wheel on a later 2A
Obviously the earlier models have more room behind the wheel.

[JDNSW]

Not a good comparison - you need to take account of the different mounting of the wheel. While the actual column may be different, the key distance is to the plane of the wheel rim. The earlier wheel clamps onto the spline and hence has a longer section of the hub on the spline than the later wheel which fits on a taper with a nut on the end.

[OneOff]

After a long hiatus, I’ve done a bit more

Rivet-mania.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-8RrKTdr/0/9112d1e4/XL/2C488DDB-FF78-40FD-8E2A-07A5F4AE9D79-XL.jpg



If ever there was a reason for cat murder, I reckon I’d get off with this...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-ZfF6Mfw/0/69e63851/XL/493C57E3-651D-4C94-90D0-CC9B51BDA408-XL.jpg



looking like I’m getting close, except I ripped out all that dodgy wiring we put in. Going to start again. Blinkers are ex-Harley Davidson, finally found something you can use a HD for...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-R6DGkz5/0/7617a73d/XL/89617DB4-AB35-42C9-919D-5C4CB7CF97DC-XL.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-cpPG62s/0/147f01a1/XL/2015A707-4DAC-4A3F-9827-8926C174095B-XL.jpg

[OneOff]

Believe it or not I’m still going...

grandson was driving it around the paddock for about an hour today, stinking hot day.

Temperature gauge was about 90. Is this too hot? I thought I’d heard it should sit at 75-80 degrees.



https://youtu.be/U7sm-Y9idYI

[JDNSW]

First question would be "How accurate is the gauge?". I seem to remember the thermostat is 75, so the actual operating e temperature would be above that I would not think 90 was too high on a hot day driving slowly, but I would check fan belt tension.

[OneOff]

Gauge is a brand new one.

Fanbelt tension is a good point, it does squeal a bit on start up, so I’ll check that tomorrow.

The other thing is the carby has started to not return to idle again. I had added an assist spring to help with this (pictures further back in this thread), but it looks like my Chinese carby might need opening up for a look. Something must be binding in there.

thanks John.

[Johnno1969]

After a long hiatus, I’ve done a bit more

Rivet-mania.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-8RrKTdr/0/9112d1e4/XL/2C488DDB-FF78-40FD-8E2A-07A5F4AE9D79-XL.jpg



If ever there was a reason for cat murder, I reckon I’d get off with this...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-ZfF6Mfw/0/69e63851/XL/493C57E3-651D-4C94-90D0-CC9B51BDA408-XL.jpg



looking like I’m getting close, except I ripped out all that dodgy wiring we put in. Going to start again. Blinkers are ex-Harley Davidson, finally found something you can use a HD for...


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-R6DGkz5/0/7617a73d/XL/89617DB4-AB35-42C9-919D-5C4CB7CF97DC-XL.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-cpPG62s/0/147f01a1/XL/2015A707-4DAC-4A3F-9827-8926C174095B-XL.jpg

Flippin' heck, mate. This thing looks just about ready for a royal review.

Marvellous job.

[4bee]

Gauge is a brand new one.

Fanbelt tension is a good point, it does squeal a bit on start up, so I’ll check that tomorrow.

The other thing is the carby has started to not return to idle again. I had added an assist spring to help with this (pictures further back in this thread), but it looks like my Chinese carby might need opening up for a look. Something must be binding in there.

thanks John.

Maybe it is soft fried Rice that some worker clumsily spilt from his Thermal Lunch Container thingy?[smilebigeye]

[OneOff]

4bee,

I can always rely on you for some pertinent advice, rock on dude...

[4bee]

Glad to help. I think.[bighmmm][bighmmm][biggrin]


Look at it another way, "Stranger things have happened".

BTW, how come your shed appears so tidy ? You have just rebuilt a Series, so that ain't right.

[OneOff]

BTW, how come your shed appears so tidy ? You have just rebuilt a Series, so that ain't right.


Strategic photography... [bigsmile1]

A painted floor and plaster walls make even a filthy shed look better.
And before it was a shed we lived in it for 3 years, so I had to bring it to a certain standard for 'er indoors.

[4bee]

Strategic photography... [bigsmile1]

A painted floor and plaster walls make even a filthy shed look better.
And before it was a shed we lived in it for 3 years, so I had to bring it to a certain standard for 'er indoors.


You as well eh? Moved into a gaff that was built & occupied by my late uncle Bob. Late '50s.

He in turn, built a "Back Ender" where the rear of the future home was built as scarce materials & cash became available. In the brick work at the sides "Brick Keying Joints" were left & when things improved you just kept on building the front section.

Ah happy days....[smilebigeye]

[Homestar]

Re the temp gauge - although it may be new, if there is a wiring issue - not grounded properly, etc this could put the gauge out, or a dodgy gauge from the factory. Have you got a non contact thermometer or thermocouple you can stick in the top of the rad to accurately measure the temp and compare it to what your gauge says? On my RRC the gauge reads 90 when the actual temp is 78 when the parkers or headlights are on - have a glitch in there somewhere but never bothered me enough to chase it - might be worth checking. [emoji106]

It’s looking fab, keep up the great work. [emoji4]

[OneOff]

:MileStone:



I painted the cab today, got up early before the heat set in.
Not a big job in itself but another major milestone in the progress.

All painting is now finished!!!!

YAY!! High fives all round...:twobeers:

I’ll add pics tomorrow.

[OneOff]

Photos as promised
My painting skills never improved one iota from start to finish. I’m glad it’s done!

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-cmqQh78/0/67956334/L/C1BB50E9-CB71-4F57-B1D4-55447DE475F9-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-TJ2HHfb/0/a423ba94/L/4B2AA8F9-F19F-42A4-87D3-4D2CE6EB2FF8-L.jpg


I also did this.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-mVSBBtj/0/3e7ba07d/L/82CDE8F3-B036-4DD5-8437-164843A5B872-L.jpg


Spare tyre under.
I’ll also make some toolboxes to fit in this space, they will be just the right height to support the floor for whatever I want to chuck in there...

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-zv4TCvD/0/d8dac89d/L/A9CCEE31-8423-413D-BE5A-A4B822C6E402-L.jpg

I know being a ute it’s technically a wet area, but I went the extra and used marine ply with two coats of marine varnish, and then I coated it all with bituminous paint. I’ve done what I can, if it falls apart from water then so be it.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-jmMJTjG/0/2c964488/M/D9AB9F7D-465B-433C-936D-B13B1488EF1C-M.jpg

[travelrover]

Looks very good!

[bemm52]

Looking great Pete I like the storage in the tub, be great for a road trip perhaps[bigwhistle]

Your next challenge will be glazing those corner windows...I whimped it and masked the lot on my truck cab.

Your roof looks great I think I will redo mine, I kinda thought dents show history but maybe they show a job half done

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

I noticed you removed it, nows the time...!

I only showed the roof from the good side. I seem to be able to get a reasonable finish on the smaller curvy areas, large flat bits like the roof centre and the bonnet defeat me.

It should all be sanded off and done again.







...but I’m not going to.

[Chops]

Looking great Pete I like the storage in the tub, be great for a road trip perhaps

Your next challenge will be glazing those corner windows...I whimped it and masked the lot on my truck cab.

Your roof looks great I think I will redo mine, [B]I kinda thought dents show history but maybe they show a job half done

Cheers Paul

It’s a tough call and one I’m glad I don’t have to make. I think those of us who are in the game one way or another will understand the why fore’s or where fore’s involved and thus not judge one way or the other.
I guess ultimately, if anyone is critical,, ask them to step back 20’ and have another look 👀 😉
If they still don’t get it, well,,, 💪🥾

[OneOff]

E


Your next challenge will be glazing those corner windows...I whimped it and masked the lot on my truck cab.



Cheers Paul



you were saying?? [biggrin]


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-g5jkXB2/0/9ec72c06/L/63705108-03DA-40F3-BF15-7A6936068F71-L.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-DNkG3v4/0/7cbfe257/L/00E4899C-96ED-4F87-B6B8-49CD244670E7-L.jpg

[bemm52]

With my reglazing on Jade I used diluted dishwashing liquid as a lubricant (flat glass panes)

In future I think I’ll use Corona, if it works on curved it’ll work on flat[bigsmile][bigsmile]

looking good your nearly there

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

Ey Corona she iz good, yez??


One needs a good lubricant for jobs like these...



but yes dishwashing liquid for the windows. [bigrolf]

[OneOff]

One needs a good lubricant for jobs like these...






C'mon 4Bee, I left it wide open for you... [biggrin]

[4bee]

Well if you don't want things seizing up, I'd agree.:rolleyes:

[OneOff]

Hello all.

A long time ago (4 years ago!) I posted this picture as a kind of light hearted idea of how I’d like this to look like when finished.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-F36JTwd/0/a4aeb3ed/L/IMG_0050-L.jpg


Apart from the shiny shiny paint job I think I got closer than I expected, way back when.

I am now very happy to announce....

B4RNEY has passed RWC and is now registered and on the road, well, legally now!

Of of course all is not over. Coming back from the inspection station it blew out one of those aluminium plugs in the head and dribbled it’s life juices down the road. But it wasn’t far and I got it home at under 90 degrees. I’ll take that up with the engine rebuilders. I know it was 4years ago but it’s only got 30 miles on it.

So a batch of finally finished shots for you...
the canvas is on it way. And the spare tyre will be going on the bonnet.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-5VzSpKq/0/01ab57bf/L/C87F35C6-D71C-48F4-BBAC-DC099FD055B7-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-s7tHJNr/0/6d359e9b/L/759DE848-C391-4EAD-8490-CC198C92CE70-L.jpg




https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-GpStfkW/0/bc70b3e7/L/44A73242-2113-45E2-B38E-6BD3AAB5B7FA-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-v23KNvK/0/55e68899/L/5355D100-2D22-4B7C-827A-96C60EB4D540-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-G57ShLV/0/ec799ddf/L/8EA80AD1-EA49-4BDB-9FF9-073E46F35097-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-RRpKZZW/0/27b4e87a/L/2BD61746-BFCA-4592-BE95-0402C273E670-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-LBhtnB8/0/6456d6de/L/3F1EF92E-A4F4-4160-A705-64D725E1C5FD-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-9HXf6pX/0/726cd3c2/L/689AC15A-6573-4AD5-85EB-B6060C35DEF0-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-wGdm3Zf/0/b85b73bb/L/FC4D99D6-6B01-486B-87A3-DF5199805431-L.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-NjSbVpM/0/0a1d0b68/L/DD6AEB6F-4A27-43F4-9A44-FF783073C92C-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-fbr2PRr/0/de495a4b/L/51C22C2F-1F62-4B0D-8E18-96F660F4BCAB-L.jpg




https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-jfgc8NG/0/4e7c82db/L/8FD8F00D-F87C-4EDD-8952-2C67B821636E-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-zJXLLsJ/0/b26eaf8c/L/F312AE57-BFF5-4DD2-926F-F818F5812FAF-L.jpg



https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-6nFtGwX/0/5f4b4d38/L/2C889EE0-CDF6-416E-9218-10F9F990A63B-L.jpg



My heartfelt thanks to everybody on this great forum who helped me through this. Without your good advice and encouragement, and patiently putting up with my stupid questions, this would still be a pile of parts

Also gratitude to lots of local businesses and people who i dealt with who showed genuine interest in what I was doing.


So now I have reached this inevitable point, the question must be asked... what the hell do I do now????

Peter - Oneoff

[DieselDan]

Noice. Very very noice!

[grey_ghost]

Barney looks Bloody Brilliant

[travelrover]

Yes looks brilliant! A great job!

[1950landy]

I see another one in the back ground there , why not it also 80" S1's are always good fun.

[bemm52]

Fantastic result really looks the goods, drive it and enjoy it.
What to do next......drive it some more...next projects seem to seek out old Land Rover owners:whistling::whistling:

Cheers Paul

[OneOff]

I see another one in the back ground there , why not it also 80" S1's are always good fun.

Yeah, Doug the Donor Rover...
Its a Series 2a, but I did give some thought, it’s got a Isuzu C190 or C230 in it, I’m not sure which. But it will move on to whoever wants it, one swb will do me.
I feel the next project, if there is one, may have something to do with a 101... glutton for punishment I am.

[OneOff]

Fantastic result really looks the goods, drive it and enjoy it.
What to do next......drive it some more...next projects seem to seek out old Land Rover owners:whistling::whistling:

Cheers Paul



Who you callin’ old????


race ya...
[biggrin]

[OneOff]

Oh dear... not good.

are these hard to replace? Can’t work out why the engine rebuilder didn’t replace them. :bat:

(screwdriver is for demonstration purposes only, I didn’t gouge a hole in it...)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-733Z3CT/0/2b04eaf3/L/47F39554-110C-479D-878E-BB740B34F3E4-L.jpg

[1950landy]

Oh dear... not good.

are these hard to replace? Can’t work out why the engine rebuilder didn’t replace them. :bat:

(screwdriver is for demonstration purposes only, I didn’t gouge a hole in it...)

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-733Z3CT/0/2b04eaf3/L/47F39554-110C-479D-878E-BB740B34F3E4-L.jpg

what I have done on my 80" is tap a thread to take a 1/2" water pipe plug , have seen it on other IOE motors as well . Once they are fitted you need to grind were the manifold surface is , it needs to be flat other wise you will brake the manifold when you will tighten it , I leant from experience .

157498157499157500157501157502 I do have some alum plugs here some one in the rover club machined up but I don't know how you fit them as they don't have any hex head or screw driver slot in them, I believe the thread is a conduit thread. But don't quote me on that.

[OneOff]

Thanks 1950landy, excellent advice!

the plug I got from Bunnings had the advantage of not needing any grinding, in fact with the manifold on it stops the plug from turning. Perfect solution!


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-6nJfRVP/0/a206909a/L/IMG_20200128_165059_3-L.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-WP7nZKx/0/236ed972/L/IMG_20200128_165224_1-L.jpg


https://photos.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/i-khFdCSn/0/81948894/L/IMG_20200128_173043_2-L.jpg